fael097

didn't know ohm law is that simple, thanks folks. btw, I found this calc, for the cheaters: http://ledcalc.com/ cheers

that's an idea! I decided to use acrylic after reading some suggestions, and spending some time trying to figure out how to do the back lighting. guess I never thought of using a different material for the base plate, so yeah, appreciate the heads up! gonna search how much would it cost me some aluminium sheets. I guess the material used for the light plate on the real hog isnt acrylic, or is it? cheers!

I apologize. I just asked about the leds, because I just have a little knowledge about electrical stuff, and none for electronics, so I wasn't sure if all usb boards were the same, if 5v is correct for leds without resistors, or anything. but I'll look for your thread, should have done it before thanks TS

hey colin, I was going to do that, because 3mm is the thinnest acrylic sheet they had, and standards say that the base plate should be about 1,57mm... and i don't have any tools to precisely cut it in half, so sanding seems to be the best option right now. or leaving it with 3mm, but idk, wanted it to look about right. about the pots, sorry, never know when something has been discussed already, thought I was starting it, so I didn't search and yeah I lost like an hour of sleep, but gave up when I realized I have no clue what to do :P I appreciate any ideas you might come up with cheers

so I finally managed to put something together. I'm gonna cut the acrylic plates tomorrow, but I couldn't wait any longer to have something working, so I decided to give it a try. turns out that the old joystick helped more than I thought. besides it's usb interface, I used the cardboard box to put my switches into something, so they wouldn't be lying around lol. some pics: obviously lame, but it works :P I used xpadder to configure release actions, since I'm not going to keep it like this, and didn't want to mess with the lua thing just yet. here's some vids: now I'm messing with leds: x4QlPsLoZAw not hard to wire a switch and a potentiometer, but I wonder if there's some sort of potentiometer that "clicks" off when you spin it back. anyone knows? also, I didn't wire it to the usb board, cuz im not sure if I'll need resistors. board says "led" in a pin, guess i'll try some old led later and see if it burns. I have 2 roadblocks now. first of all, is it possible to control a light knob from the game through an axis? second, if it is possible, how would I wire physical leds AND game axis to the same potentiometer? wouldn't i need some sort of double pole? is there such thing for potentiometers? thanks guys! Rafael

thanks guys, helpful indeed. btw, i asked a question on my thread, about potentiometers, led lights intensity, and using it in game, but I guess it fits better in here, since we're on this subject, so if you want to take a look: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1206478&postcount=65 thanks, Rafael

Hey stang! thats a nice piece of software. I use 3ds max for modeling, so sometimes it can help with measures, but adjusting the camera to match a picture, can be painful, and sometimes you have to guess lenses size, until you get an angle that approaches the pic, to start measuring. about the lenght, yeah i just saw it says 2 inches in there, but im not sure, i mean 2 inches isnt exact, it wont fit the standard dimensions. so i tried calculating an approach. if you add .562 x2 (the distance from dzus holes to the top/bottom edges on the lenght) to the holes distance multiplier .375 x2, you'll have 1.874 inches ( .126'' difference from 2''). if you do the multiplier x3, you'll get your 2.249 inches, but thats 249'' different, so 1.874 is a little closer to the 2 inches, but lol, yeah, we can't base it on the statement that the laste panel is 2 inches long. so you're right, more accurate dimensions could help a lot cheers!

awesome, thank you tigershark! btw, I was thinking how to connect the LED lights I'm gonna use, and decided to make a separate switch (that later I'll put into the lighting panel) so I was wondering, how to connect the leds to the ggg USB card, through a switch. do I need to connect any resistors to the leds? I'll probably wire all the leds from all panels to the same switch, and at the same time i want this switch to simply turn on/off the leds, I also want it to send a command to the usb interface to turn the lights on/off in game. last thing, I have an USB interface from an old joystick, wich has 4 inputs for analog axis. is it possible to control the game light knob through a potentiometer? also is it possible to control the LEDs intensity through the same potentiometer? that would be amazing. thanks

wow, thats about right stang! thanks for being so helpful. guess I missed the part saying that the distance between the bottom (or top) of the plate and the dzus hole was also standard, and .562'' btw, according to your math, you calculated 3 times the multiple of .375 for the distance between dzus holes, right? where did you find that it was 3 times? I was basing my measures from a pic of the dcs panel, and it looked about 2 times only (wich I admit, looks really small after i printed) anyways, here's the images I used as reference: cheers!

hey stang, thanks, but those measures i already know, im looking for the unique lets say lenght, (if the 146mm is width). im using 49mm for LASTE panel height, but thats guessing. each panel has its own height, those are unique measures. thanks again

ok, finally some (little) progress. while my GGG usb board doesn't arrive, I'm wiring my switches to an old usb joystick wich has 4 axis, 12 buttons and a POV hat. I finally bought the acrylic plate, though I only found 3mm. guess I'll sand the base plate down until it's 1,5mm thick. the light plate is fine with 2 plates of 3mm each. base plate is gonna be 146mm wide, and light plate 144mm. this is the most accurate approach I can handle, achieved this measure after recalculating all dimensions. now my only doubt is about the width. didn't find any specific measures for the LASTE panel, so I did it based on pics. right now the base plate have 49mm, while the light plate is 47mm, altough I have no idea if this is any accurate. anybody knows? thanks!

peter, what's that plastic paste you used?

its the 5th entry for me, but just fyi, different countries, different results :)

wow, thats it, thank you! btw, it's not about how to use the net, is about very specific terms in a language that's not my native one. I never heard it as "grip switch" and just saying that term you help me a lot, but if you'd rather give me a lesson along with it, that's up to you, it helped a lot nonetheless.

I was watching that right now, very informative! thanks Colin. My only doubt now is about rotary switches. they have fixed positions? (what characterizes switches) or they are potentiometers? in many places, the concept of rotary and potentiometers are given the same.

yeah, I know that you don't really need a triple throw, just like you don't really need a double throw for 2 way switches (since you can edit the lua to do something when it goes off) but was wondering, if there is such thing as triple throw, wich could be useful for those who play other sims that dont have such thing as the lua config, nor have xpadder or a software to configure button options when turned off. in that case, you mentioned the use for double throw for 2 way toggles, so I wondered about triple throw for 3 way toggles :pilotfly: @greg: thanks, and yeah I know about the switch, I just don't know if there is a triple throw

hey Colin, that's what I was wondering, a DT switch for a 2 position toggle switch would work just fine, but for a 3 position toggle, you would need like a triple throw right? i'm not sure if there is such thing, but i didnt find anywhere.

Deadman, if you don't want to answer, you don't have to. but anyways, when you don't know what to look for, google becomes useless. i tried button, plastic button, knob, pushbutton, button cover, directional button, nothing will show those things. so I'm just asking what to look for. perhaps if someone knows where to buy the thing, it would help, if not, that's ok, just no need to be sarcastic, as this is no stupid question. for example, I've been looking for hat switches everywhere, for about a week, and didn't find anything. then Colin came and told me to look for SKQUCA, and voila, found them. :)

great tigershark, thanks. didn't know dcs was capable of doing so! gonna check the lua vid. cheers Rafael

any ideas where I can found a plastic button like from your switch? or perhaps anything similar, a hat switch, etc. I found directional switches that im gonna mount on my hotas, but they come without a button...

Tigershark, I was watching your tut for turning continuous pulses into single pulses, sounds great for other sims! I personally use xpadder, but I like your idea of making stuff out of the box, without using software. so I was wondering how do you deal with 3 way toggles? I know for ON/OFF switches, you use double throw (wich if i understand, actually makes them ON/ON, for emitting a pulse that DCS will recognize as off, or the other option that 2 way switches might have), but how about 3 way switches? I found only double throw, are there any triple throw? or you actually use software in this case?

yep, sounds about right, thanks Colin! btw, good news, I managed to contact randy at last. had to reach him through arcade forums. guess Leo Bodnar lost a costumer :P cheers

thanks folks, really appreciate! btw, nice work on that seat, stang

waiting on vids for the last campaign. I skipped second campaign cuz it wasnt fun for me. the last one though is a bitch, takes ages to reach the target (srsly, 30 minutes or so just to get there), and when you get there, if you dont know what to do, the chopper will get killed and you'll have to restart lol.

guys, any idea what's the distance between left and right console? like the ejection seat width... thanks