Jump to content

fael097

Members
  • Posts

    464
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fael097

  1. thanks. Tigershark, that explains a lot! also, I'm sorry for insisting on the subject, but do you, or anybody, knows another way to contact Randy from GGG? I was buying a board, but when I was registering, my country wasn't on the list, so I just wanted to know if he can or can't ship the board to Brazil. If not, I'm buying it anyways, but I'll have to ask some folks to receive the board and then send to me. thanks again.
  2. f***, this is so frustrating, I want to buy a game board, but there's no shipping option for me, and Randy or Leo just won't reply to my emails. guess I give up? any other unexpensive gaming boards out there?
  3. about that :) btw, i was watching the part 3 of tigershark tuts, and I got confused. he mentioned the ground wire, the input wires, but he barely mentioned the 5v wire. you don't need power for the switches? lol i'm confused.
  4. I'm gonna guess snap in is indeed referring to the way of mounting. it has an identical switch, except, this one is PCB and the other one is SMD. that probably means PCB has pins to mount, and SMD contacts. so snap in makes sense.
  5. btw, now im looking for buttons to place over the switch. lol any remote ideas?
  6. here, try this http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SKQUAAA010/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsFLoxuNbFfpYqB%252b1KTCXelZiBcq3T2oHA%3d
  7. btw, there is a switch like that one, but it says "snap in". does that mean it stays in the position you place it?
  8. are you kidding me? thats perfect! thank you so much... I've been looking for this for a week. I even bought some tactile switches, and was trying to figure out how to assemble them around a stick to make and improvised hat switch, but it would never fit a joystick. really appreciate! Rafael
  9. y2kiah, do you mind if I "steal" your rudder idea? it looks very simplistic and yet awesome! btw, i noticed your panels are inclined about 20 degrees, both outer panels (environment, lighting, etc) and front panels (CMS panel, warning panel). did you see somewhere that it's 20 degreess, or you're guessing? I tried to find the information, but couldnt. still looking, but from that scheme someone posted here, I understood that outer panels are 8 degrees inclined, and front panels are like 27 degrees. of course I have no idea about that, I probably misunderstood, so I'm asking if you're sure about that. thanks
  10. Mojo, I'm an xpadder costumer, and I didn't know this was the method used with switches. but if it is so, then yes, it's possible to do anything with it. you can map 2 virtual buttons for each of the 3-way switch "on" positions, and set a "release" action for both of them, to press certain button when released. it's some sort of work around, but should work flawlessly. I'm willing to buy either groovygamegear board, or leo bodnar's board, but none of them is replying to my e-mails. I'm trying to contact them for like a week, but nothing.
  11. thanks Mojo, guess i finally got it about throws. so basically, for the 2 way switches, i have only ON-OFF (single throw i assume). you're saying that you can easily configure the software to understand the OFF position as a second command, right? are we talking about the game software, or the controller software? will this work with all games? if i follow this logic, I wouldn't need some sort of 3-throw switch for the auto pilot selection mode 3 way switch toggle (wich i currently have one ON-OFF-ON) i just set up a software to recognize the off position as a 3rd command. sorry I'm a little bit confused, but when I'm speaking theoretically, without the actual thing in my hands, it gets a little difficult to understand. and thank you for all your help
  12. wow, thats right, momentary switches. I found it once, but the guy was selling regular switches with the name of momentary, thats why I was confused, but thanks mate, exactly what I needed! about the hat switches, i suppose i better make them myself, with tactile switches, should be easier than finding them lol... so yeah, thanks a lot. @TigerShark: mate, could you please explain how to wire the switches to the game board? thats bugging me, i cant really unterstand without my board here, but wanted to be sure before i buy. also, if its not asking too much, id like to know how to work with the other pole. i have a DTDP 3 way switch, (on-off-on), and i managed to get 2 different lights working depending on the switch position, but nothing happens when i connect them to the other pole. last thing i wanted to ask you, how does DCS handle single throw switches to two different actions? thanks in advance!
  13. Stang, 5.75 total width seems about right, thats almost precisely 146mm about the thickness, I read it somewhere in this forums, but right now I just can't find it... lol sorry I believe the material is up to you, and to your budget. acrylic seemed about right for me, it manages backlighting just great when sanded, and should be relatively easy to cut! not sure if it helps :P Rafael
  14. Agreed. thats why I work with estimatives :)
  15. you can't really see very well, but perhaps it helps a little: also, check the thrustmaster warthog hotas, the font they use looks quite close to the real a-10
  16. guys, I actually tried that font, and it looks similar to what we see in DCS a-10c. but I went to that other font i showed, because of a picture Deadman posted in this thread a few days ago. a close picture of the a-10c LASTE panel, and the font was just like the one i used on my last pic, with round corners, etc. unfortunately Deadman removed his post, and I can't find that image on google, but you could try asking him for that picture again, perhaps he's kind and will show it again! btw, does anybody know if the backlight on the real warthog is green, or actually cyan, like in the dcs pit?
  17. thanks falcon! I had a look, but I'm not sure if those switches are right for me. I'm looking basically for two kinds of switches, first those 3 position toggles, that return to the center, like the speedbrake switch, you know? at the local hardware store, i can only find common 3 position switches that stay where you leave them. I'm also looking for hat switches (4 directions), but didnt find any. probably because all of them are made with 4 tactile switches positioned around the center stick, but I dont know how to mount one myself. did you find any of those there? thanks in advance!
  18. here's the font, it's called Redring 1969. I'm deciding how many and where to place the led lights, but in the software, It's requiring too many lights. guess I'll just cut the holes, and decide how many lights i'll use later, when i have the acrylic plate. can't calculate precisely how the light is gonna spread through the acrylic surface, with a coat of white paint, but I assumed 3 or 4 lights should be enough.
  19. alright, so i decided to use a thickness of 2mm, for each one of the plates. that way i can use the same acrylic sheet for all 3 plates, and it will look about right. i found a font that looks like the real engravings on the a-10c panel. gonna do some tests and post later
  20. im having trouble finding hat switches. anyone knows a place to find them? ebay wont come up with any...
  21. guys, is leo bodnar still selling his items? his website seems to have been updated last time in 2009. also he wont answer my emails. any clues?
  22. no problem, Flim, I'm new to this forum, but I know that drama happens everywhere. I speak for myself, with less than a month asking stuff on a-10 sub forums, a guy decided to bash me and give me negative reputation whenever he could, and I still don't know why. after a while he deleted his messages... perhaps he doesn't like people asking stuff around. or people who can't afford uber expensive cockpit instruments. who knows?! and Red, I was reading through your cockpit thread, and It gave me many ideas, thanks for sharing them! hope I can come up with good ideas aswell, and perhaps help someone. I'll update my thread tomorrow, and post some new pics! cheers
  23. makes sense, thats why i had the mavs working fine, because i loaded them before on my first take off, when i didnt have any cbu's. works perfectly. thanks mtuckner!
  24. hey, i just did the 2nd mission of the first campaign, then after shooting all mavs, i RTB, loaded 4 mavs and 4 cbu 97s, the anti tank loadout number 2, and went to the dsms to load them. i loaded the mavs just fine, but when i try to load my cbus, they appear in red. it also says stores detected, when i enter the station loadout page, and it said mav detected on the mavs station pages. what am i supposed to do? thanks in advance
  25. indeed I am. I was rounding some measures because i lacked real information. gonna check your thread right now. thanks bud!
×
×
  • Create New...