Luigi Gorgonzola

Pilot's pre flight warm up excercises -- headstand. :wub:

You can fly co-op missions and it doesn't matter if the server hosting the mission is an A-10-C or a BS 2 server. I don't know about the compability of single player missions, though.

JimMack, it it updated to match the extended area of A10/BS2? I have a printout of it already, but I'd prefer to have it in game via F10.

Sorry, forgot to attach the screenshots. I marked the items currently most relevant to me with red circles. Additionally (not shown in the screenshots), my route/waypoints as well as identified targets do not show in the ingame map. I'm not surprised that enemy and allied units routes are invisible, but I'd like to use the F10 map as an equivalent of the traditional paper map RL pilots tend to carry with them...

Couldn't find any older threads, but I may as well be too stupid to find the matching search phrases. The mission editor map shows way more details (mostly navigational data such as beacons, etc.) than the ingame F10 map while the mission planner map detail level seems to be located somewhere inbetween. Is this intended? Why? Especially in a free flight "mission", this can be pretty annoying when trying to get used to the navigation equipment. I wish, I could see at least civilian navigation data in the F10 map.

I should have added that I fly fixed wings usually rther infrequently, since I bought BS 1 ;) I buy them (FC2, A10 in this case), fly them and feel bored pretty soon as they don't give me the thrill the Black Shark does :) In general, inaccuracy and other issues of my stick are not as "obvious" (lack of english vocabulary 4tw) in fixed wings (especially jets) as their reaction on robust input is rather pleasant in opposite to the Black Shark (and probably most if not all other helicopters). Hence my "negative/unexpected/undesired" statement; the stick becomes annoying when it comes to very sensitive input. Especially the Z axis (rudder) issues make common manoeuvres like a coordinated turn pretty tricky. And yes, I use the orange box. It's the first thing I switch on, even prior to BATT1 and BATT2. And the orange box confirms the display of the stick calibration pages - it's an issue with a stick. Apart from that, I have no curvature, saturation and deadzones set in BS options. All straight and plain. Tried to compensate the Z axis issue with a small deadzone and a curvature but didn't feel comfortable with it, so I returned to default. Regarding the "many cheaper" sticks I'd rely on the OP to be able to compare prices ;) It's rather a strategic recommendation to either spend as less money as possible (as I think all low cost sticks are equally crappy) or go and find a good stick that meets the individual requirements by searching the web (and not relying on advertisement, see noc's comment). Personally, I chose the X52 Pro as my individual "right" stick. It's affordable to me and I'll be able to skip the extra rudders (another 100,- up to 200,- €) for a while and expect to have a way more accurate stick in my hand (also, it fits my hands and purposes way better than a TM WH or Cougar).

What I dislike is mostly "traditional" and well known: Crappy potentiometers. These little plastic thingies result in: Slider reacting on strong input only (read from the calibration screen it would step up in steps of five - pretty much, considering its range from 0 to 256). Since this is my Collective, slow movement is barely possible. Also, it simply ignores the very beginning (again, in numbers ca. eight) of its range. Deadzone of the "Rudder" axis (Z axis) is huge and assymetric. Makes my turns an adventure. X and Y axis centering is only reliable and sort of exact if you load the spring close to max. Not the way I like to have my Cyclic, unfortunately, so I have to deal with a "moving center" somehow. Overall inaccuracy; doesn't ease my life at all. I tried FC2 and A-10-C as well and couldn't find too much negative/undesired/unexpected outcome (not even the fact that I feel bored in fixed wings), but in the Shark that crapstick drives me crazy so I never would recommend that stick for this particular purpose. There are many sticks of similar quality and functionality that are cheaper. So I'd recommend to leek for a cheaper one or save the money for a better one. I'll probably be buying an X52 Pro as soon as HMG permits as it seems to me the best price-value ratio for a helicopter stickset, about 150,- €/USD if not cheaper.

Great stuff, MeerCaT! :lol:

:D

Sorry, that's a crapstick. Bought it, regret it. Buddy wouldn't listen and bought it as well - guess, what's happening... Either buy cheaper or by right.

Wot? So Non-FFB users will still experience these symptoms? Weren't there quite some who described the same or similar behaviour in the original thread?

IIRC it had been discovered that the mechanism-that-cannot-be-named ist being updated on button-that-shall-not-be-mentioned press instead of release. Also IIRC, this is supposed to be fixed soon™ Maybe this is an explanation for the symptoms-you-imagine-to-encounter? Until then, I will strongly attempt to refrain from looking into any further thread covering the topic-that-cannot-be-named. It simply drives me crazy :wacko:

Hehe, but that doesn't count as it's already been done ;)

Looks pretty much like ED stuff. There's even that famous white circle around the Alligator... ;) http://en.rian.ru/video/20111021/167931504.html

This one already helps: Thank you very much, GGTharos! Just when I began to think I would have understood the FCS principles and thought I'd have an idea how to use it, all these trimmer threads drove me mad ;)

That'd be great (both). I'm very much interested in getting a little more insight into the training phase since I find it very difficult to get more information about (in the net, I don't know any helicoter pilot IRL).

Ah, thx!

Anyone tried to run a BS2 mission in BS1 to see what's happening? Just for fun and curiousity...

Oops - never followed the thread, the first post says it all ... :wub: :thumbup: Full ACK!

Near miss ;) The FD is actually meant to direct (guide) you along the selected flight path. Give it a try by setting up a route (ME or in the cockpit, use the PVI-800 for the latter case) and switching to ROUTE mode (DT or DH doesn't matter). The FD will visually guide you along the predefined flight path. Without a programmed route (i.e. PVI-800 neither in WP, IP nor Airfield mode), it will provide you a visual guidance to reach the flight attitude as given/determined when the trimmer was released the last time. As far as I understood, that's one of the ways it's meant to be used. FD is fine when flying along a route (or freeflight), e.g. scanning for threats. AP is cool when used in transit. For further reading I highly recommend the following link. It's way better than the (cluttered) information in the flight manual: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=36246

FD OFF -> Attitude HOLD FD ON -> Input Dampening Attitude HOLD means it will attempt to keep the flight attitude as found on latetst trimmer usage. Input Dampening means it will only dampen (soften?) your input on Cyclic, Collective and Rudder but it will not alter your flight attitude. FD != AP this is important to keep in mind. In fact, you actually do switch between FD and AP usage instead of switching on/off any one of FD and AP. One of both is always in command (as long as you have those shiny blue buttons lit, that is)...

No, it doesn't stop automatically (i.e. no face recognition ;)). however, it may be useful when searching for threats...

that's why I dropped the link to the original thread;)

TBH - no clue :D I don't know why it is, but decreasing the value to 60 gave me ~ 10 FPS for my dual 5770 setup (1920x1200, single monitor). However, decereasing the value even further didn't yield any visible improvement. My thought was "if this gives me 10 FPS, it should give him 10 at least (considering the faster GPU)". I dumbly guess that this parameter might keep the engine from "queueing" more frames ahead than the GPU is capable of. Saw this in other (earlier) games...

Search for "MaxFPS", this gave me most of my FPS back. I just don't remember the thread where I found it. May also have been over at A10-C. /EDIT Here you go: http://www.159thgar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=58137&sid=9966f7914da1c6c21f6da55b621a5857#p58137 and that's the post, I took it from: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=82229&highlight=159thgar