0utLAW

Just got my ggg board and tested the different types of switches all at one time. Couldn't be easier! This board is great for these builds that only include a couple of panels. I'm sure you could get more boards to handle more switches. So far VERY NICE! Deaman, the only reason why I wanted to use that type of switch is because, to me, in the game that's what the switch looked like. Plus I was not familiar with the push-pull type of switch. So with the push-pull switch you have to push the button down and then physically pull it up? Also latching push buttons are more readily available I believe. My build will be nowhere near the quality of the craftsmanship of you, R1, and Ducky(Totally awesome by the way!) But I just want to add an extra level of immersion. Even if it's at a low level. JG, thanks for the tip on soldering. I have one of those adjustable Radio Shack soldering irons that adjusts 20-30-40-50 watts. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4342791 Any recommendations for the wattage to use? Between 20 and 30? Laurius, your enclosure for your electrical panel looks awesome! Do you have the plans for the enclosures for all your panels(dimensions)? I'm looking at doing the same setup. Did you put your ggg board in its own box and wire your panels to that? Or, did you put the board in one of you panel enclosures and wire the rest of them to that? HOW DID YOU DO IT!! :) Also, Lauan is used as an underlayment for flooring like vinyl. My plan is to make the enclosure out of 1/4" wood and the faceplate will be either clear or opaque acrylic plexiglass. I was going to print out the images of the panels from Loz's Helios profile and adhere those to the plexiglass. The hopefully effect(affect? I can never get those two right) is to have the ability to put some LEDs in the box and have the light shine through the white parts(text) of printed panel(fingers crossed). :) After writing this and thinking of how that faceplate will work, I'm not sure it's a good idea. I'm sure the stress put on the plexiglass by the switches may cause the plexi to crack or break. So, for those of you who make your panels in layers how do you provide back-lighting?

If I'm not mistaken on the fuel panel the Fill Disable switches for the L&R Wing and L&R Main.

So I went to Allelectronics today and got just about all my switches. I picked up the following (left to right) 5 STSP on-off @ 2.00 each 5 DTSP on-off-on @ 2.40 each 14 STDP on-off @ 1.50 each 2 DTDP on-off(on) @ 3.55 each 1 momentary push button @ 1.35 TOTAL $51.45 not too bad of a price. Still need to find 4 latching push buttons. The saga continues...:thumbup:

Hey JG14, turns out allelectronics is located just down the street from me. They have some DTDP medium duty switches for $2.40. Also it looks like their inventory depends on what business closes down. They look like they are mostly a salvage electronics store which also provides some new goods as well.

Thank you so much for your replies! Everything is making sense. I'm sure I'll have some questions about editing the .Lua's, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. ;) Looking for some confirmation here. If a switch is a SPST and only has two connection points on the back, am I correct in assuming that one goes to power and the other to ground? I did see a small hole in the middle but not sure how to connect a wire to it. I assume shove the wire in, drop some solder in and your good. And in the case of a DTS(or D)P there will be three 3(or 6) connections, the middle being ground and the other two are power? And if you wanted to use it as a ST that you would only wire up the middle and one of the other connections leaving one of the connections alone? Hey Laurius, what materials did you use to make your panel? It looks great! I'm wanting to MacGyver a panel by using some 1/4" Lauan and opaque plexiglass.

Thanks Deadman. That's some good info. A little pricey for my budget but good info none the less. There is a site called http://www.Element14.com that I have heard of from a net TV show called The Ben Heck Show at http://www.revision3.com. They have a lot of stuff there and a cool program for you gurus out there called roadtest. You get to review and keep products. There's also http://www.digikey.com. Anyone using the groovy game gear GP-Wiz40? What switches did you buy(SPST,SPDT..., contact voltage, contact current etc.)?

After watching Tiger's vids I am going to attempt to make a panel. I want to make an AHCP, electrical and fuel panel. I ordered a groovy game gear GP-Wiz40 (GPWIZ40MAX). I do have a couple of questions; 1. I know there is a wiki that shows what types of switches are used on a certain panel for the A-10. Does anyone have that link? 2. Are those switches normal switches or is there something special about them? 3. Are they more expensive? 3. Will they work with the groovy game gear board? 4. Where is a good place to get them(local or online)? I live in Encino CA USA. 5. What websites have good deals on switches in general? Basically where do you get yours from?

Hey guys I've had to re-install my X52 Pro and I downloaded the latest drivers from Saitek's site and I see that the current version does not allow you to change the color of the POV1 LED(there is just no option for it in the properties window). I had a version of the drivers that included that option, but I no longer have that version of the drivers. Anyone have the version of the drivers that includes this option? If so would you be as so kind and to post a link or attach them. Thank you!

So I decided to mess around with Helios(first time with trying to use bindings) because I wanted to add some control knobs for the left and right MFCDs. It took me a little while to get the swing of how bindings work but once I figured it out I had a little fun. I'm using a modified version of Loz SM v2.1 profile to fit my 1680x1050 monitor. I've attached a copy of my profile if anyone wants it. (You must have the images from Loz's profile loaded into the correct directory on your system in order for the profile to look correct. Please go to http://www.scsimulations.com/ and download and follow Loz SM v2.1 instructions) Here's what I did; 1. Added control knobs for both left and right MFCDs. They work as they should, 3 positions(Off/NT/Day), and they get updated to the correct position if the knobs in DCS changel! :D 2. Next I added a shortcut that brings up an image of the keyboard commands and at the same time pauses the game! :D:D 3. Added another shortcut that brings up my HOTAS setup and at the same time pauses the game!:D:D:D The only problem I'm having is the CMSP display data showing up behind my RWR. I put the CMSP data there because that's where the panel sits when I bring up the right console.:mad: My question is; How do I get the CMSP data to only show up when the right console is active and then go away when hidden? I can re-size and move my right console panel if needed so the data doesn't show up behind my RWR. I believe Peter P told me to make a cut out of the panels but I'm not that proficient at Helios at this point. If someone could help me with this it would be greatly appreciated. Also, same thing goes for the radios data; 0utLAW A-10C TEST.rar

Does anyone know if the Easy Monitor Configurator(http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1169829) works with the latest version of A-10 v1.2.0.3205? Got a new HD and looking for and easier way to configure my MFCDs and other panel exports. Thanks!

do you guys use this? http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=84791

Where do you guys get your panel labels from? is there a thread here where I can download them and print them out?

I think its my hard drive. Been having funky stuff happening for a while now and I think it is the Patriot Pyro SE SATA III 6.0gb/sec drive. Soooooo got a new WD VelociRaptor WD2500HHTZ 250GB 10000 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s on it's way! Oh I hope this fixes the issues I've been having. Oh and another thing about those Pyros is that it can't update the firmware if your running an Nvidia chipset. The updater software doesn't recognize/display the installed hd. WOW!

The answer is probably obvious but eludes me. I had two A-10C profiles in my saved games directory. One named A-10C and one named A-10C Pro. I deleted the A-10C Pro profile since I did not use it and now for some reason my A-10C profile doesn't work in the game. Whenever I push a button on the controller I see the assigned function show up on the throttles MFD. It just isn't working in the game. The only thing that works is the throttle and stick no button functions. I tried restoring the A-10C Pro profile from the recycle bin but that didn't work. I also tried JoyID and moved my joysticks id to a different # assignment. I unplugged the controller, rebooted my machine, logged into windows, did a reboot and then plugged my controller in. Moved the controllers USB connection to a different port. All had no effect. Any ideas? Do I need to get rid of both profiles and make a new one?

So I was originally inspired by this; So I made myself this; The desk is an old Ikea queen size headboard that I made the tabletop. The base for the table is your basic workbench style base. 4x4s and 2x4s stained dark brown. I added some 3/4" ply to the rear for mounting a power strip, router and modem. I also added another power strip(running off a different outlet) on the front leg for misc stuff(lights, steering wheel power...) I also added some 22" full extension drawer slides with a piece of 3/4" MDF that's 4ftx2ft(that's quite the keyboard tray if I do say so myself :smilewink:) The second monitor kit(lets call it) is made of some scrap 3/4" ply and some cut-outs under the right front of the monitor in order to get access to the menu controls. I also wanted to keep this whole thing portable to stow it away when not in use(i.e girlfriend gets upset with all the stuff out). I added a 4 port usb hub to the back so my flight stick, left MFD, right MFD and lights can all plug into the back of the kit and only run one usb wire to my computer. Of course I still need to connect the monitor data and power. As you can see they just run off to the side. I will make a cut-out on the back of the kit for easy removal at the kit instead of having to go under my desk to remove the monitor cables. I'll also make a wire holder on my keyboard tray so I can just grab them from there. Oh, I also ran Velcro around the top, left and right sides of the monitor so I can move the MFDs to any position along the outside of the monitor. Just in case I want to easily re-position them for another aircraft. As for the glareshield I just used some foam core, thick picture frame matting, hot glue and some pictures of the glareshield parts. Re-sized them to fit my needs. Printed them out and slapped it together this morning. I stuck some Velcro on the bottom so I can remove it if necessary.

I'll take some more pictures of the desk, monitor stand and glare shield I made. The lower monitor is a 22" Samsung 226BW(60Hz) 1680x1050 and the top monitor is an Acer GD245HQ(120Hz) 1920x1080 for 3D content. I'm using Helios and Loz's SM 2.1 profile I modded slightly for my needs. I still need to figure out how to get the CMSP info to show up when the right panel is active and to then disappear when the right panel is inactive. I guess I should have used Loz's .Lua files to begin- with instead of using his Helios profile and the Monitor Export process.

I do. It's just the angle I took the photo from. After I added the glareshield I raised the rear monitor up a few inches

Here are some finishing touches I make to my deskpit. Added the glareshield which houses lights

So I went with Beechs configuration and broke the manual into three parts. Ordered from mimeo.com and ran me just over $43 shipped to CA USA. Sorry Reaper couldn't wait and funds are tight right now.

is it possible for A-10?

I would like to use this panel to display the nav and com radio freqs while in mode 3(blue), the counter measures panel in mode 2(purple) and dms info in mode 3(red). Would this be possible? I've attached a pic I found on the net that someone made to display the nav and com radio info. :)

here is a copy of my profile A-10C X52 Pro.rar

Is it just me or is anyone else having issues with the X52 Pro and the new version of DCS A-10C? I've noticed during the Air to Air training mission when I fire my gun that PAC doesn't seem to be working. The nose of the craft still rises up quite a bit. I have the first stage of the trigger set to "P" and the second stage set to "Space". When I test the profile this is what the test area looks like; P Space Space Space Space Space Space Space Space Space Space Space P Should it look like this to keep PAC active? P Space P Space P Space P Space P Space P Space P Space P Space Also I have the 8-way button on the front of the throttle set to my Coolie Hat. I've noticed when I try to make my MAV SOI by pressing a long right that it instead wants to jump to the next screen on my right MFCD. Anyone else having "glitchy" issues after the new version of A-10C?

Please forgive me, but is this gone? I looked through the keyboard command list and did not find it. Is it listed as something different?

I'm using the Helios profile LOZ SM 2.1. I modified it slightly for my 1650X1050 monitor. I'm only using this to display the front dash and left and right consoles on my 2nd monitor. I used the MFCD export file found on the DCS site for the 2 MFCDs, Clock, UHF repeater, RWR, and the CMSC. Both left and right consoles are hidden just like LOZs' profile but the UHF, Channel and CMSP are displayed on my main screen. My question is how do I get the UHF, Channel and CMSP to only be displayed when I bring up those panels and then go away when I minimize them? I am running current DCS World v1.2.0.3205 and the current version of the MFCD export. I have included my Monitor Setup LUA file(0utLAW Monitor.LUA) that I am currently running and the LOZs' main Monitor Setup file(BMFCD.LUA) and the LUAs for the Preset channel, Freq Status, and CMPS init files. Files.rar