Duckling

Thanks DM. Not sure if the material would stand it. It's either Alu or some alloy and I'm afraid I break it (or squize the wire tube inside it shut) I'll wait and see how much it interfare with the flap gauge view. Currently it cover some of that space when in Up position I used these http://www.jula.se/strombrytare-for-inbyggnad-12-v-130504 Aprox 1,5 Euro each. It's a short stroke pull-to-connect type low price switch. Seen these on many car surplus dealers 50 mm diameter and 18mm thick but have no way to say if it's accurate or not. Lenght of the 'pole' sticks out 60 mm (to center of the knobb) from the baseplate and it feels kinda short compared with the pics of the real thing. Lampbulbs seems almost identical to a standard lightpanel light bulb and has same type of "hat" on the head of the bulbs. Will take a few close up pics and post Cheers Gus

Here's another option. I used an older landinggear panel from ebay (non original ofcouse :-) Removed the mechanism and used a saw to "trim" some of the pieces of it and bolted it on a prepared baseplate. No option currently for solenoid-held/blocked lever though. Cost in this case is less then 100$ (not counting the solenoid held anti-skid switch missing in the pics below) Nothing wired yet and havn't descided yet if to risk bending the lever. http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_3.jpg http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_2.jpg http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_1.jpg cheers Gus edit: Missed a pic http://www.strandedduckling.com/LNDGPNL_4.jpg

Hi Oakes Can't answer directly for this pan but engine instrument panel has the same footprint as the combined AHCP + Clock/UHF Indicator/AoA/SAI together. EngineInst panel is 235*165,5 mm (W/H). Might be to some help to estimate true width. Ha de gött Gus

Fantastic work SHU :thumbup: Thanks /Gus

Absolutly amazing Deadman :thumbup:

If using an office chair with arms, you might consider extending/bend the arms (or use the fastening systems for these), bolt on a plate for supporting the throttle and stick. Same approach to get a centered stick but a bit more tricky. Watch up for the problem with an office chair when using pedals, it will cause the chair to twist. For a QnD setup, I'd use a sturdy wodden kitchen chair as base, sides to support the HOTAS could be bolted on directly :-)

Good progress y2kiah. Watch up for the size of the cutouts below the lightpanels. Think you have though, but just in case. They look a bit narrow for a regular size switch "nut". I swapped the my earlier choise of 20mm for 25mm to ease the build. Had to re-cut a few of my the first lightpanels. Cheers Gus

Hi DM. Complements on the progress and results. Inst pan looking great :thumbup:

Hallo A. Good to hear from you. I'm sure the path will return to your view when things cool down a bit :-) Gus

Great start DM. Been waiting a long time for your thread (you know what I mean, nutch.. nutch.. :-) Hope your situation clears up soon. Cheers Gus

Can't tell about BS but the description you give sounds very like the switch used in A-10 and F-104 "temp" control panels. This got momantary positions in down left and right positions. Center is non connected. Pic below is from a F-104. Looks identical above baseplate even if the Hog switch has different base. Kinda hard to find though without bying a complete surplus panel.

Great result y2kiah. That Pit of yours really going to big an outstanding piece of art. Cheers Gus

Look super y2kiah. I see that space left pan is adjusted for TMs new throttle :-) The arch size is the quiz. I got no possibility to verify but the dimensions of the real thing but it "feels" slightly oversized comparing with seat height and rest of the pit. If it's been verified, can you share the dimensions of the frame/arch ? Looks the outer frame is wood based. What is your plan to access the Pit ? (external ladder, opening one side section, a sliding chair or climb in and out using the seat) ? Cheers Gus

Ohh yes, simply amazing Trigger :thumbup: but then again, your work usually are :music_whistling: Cheers Gus

Thanks Trigger Best shoot of the real Quad I've seen so far Found this little beauty at same dealer. Only the lightpan and a bit pricy though http://catalog.magnumsims.com/viewProduct.cfm?item_id=713485

Ahum... Now I get it :-) Elevation in metric from base.. (based on "A" version of Inst panel) NavMode panel 32 mm HSI 38 mm ADI 45 mm (same for RWR Ctrl panel) Altimeter/Speed 13 mm VSI 26 mm (same for indicators Nosewheel/Gun/Beacon/Canopy...) RWR Ind 37 mm Cheers Gus (and to avoid that I miss the target again. My home built NavMode pan is 128*54 mm)

Past midnight here and it's been a very long day, could you clarify what measurement specific you looking for ? (below the HSI is the NavMode panel and further down the "bottom" part of instrument panel as you seen is "cut" away. From a flat standing panel, the measurement from base ("floor") to the HSI lower cutout is 104 mm

Hi Shu Got my ones on http://www.strandedduckling.com/html/quad_ref.html but be sure to read the 'disclaimer' notes also. I tend to update things as I go along and quality of'em leaves some to be desired :-) Some quads and instrumentation missing still (haven't start working on them yet :music_whistling: or lack updates until the Quads been folly made) I don't got access to a CNC so I use the old fashion method instead http://www.strandedduckling.com/html/panel_making_tutorial__1.html#PanTutPage :pilotfly: Cheers Gus

HUD info (graphic) exportable to separate screen (black background) while hiding instrument and HUD from normal view.. (to use in real/homebuilt HUD) Likewise for RWR indicator and CDU display info (if above is already possible or planned , please stop me :-) /Gus

To add to the wishlist in more generic terms for interfacing a Pit.. - Avoid "toggled" inputs where real switch gives a fixed funtion, (or rather add additional controls as needed). Ex. A rotary switch in real pit is mimict by a toggles-through avaliable positions in the sim 3D dito. Same options for external lights etc etc - "Pot's" and other options to increase/decrease a a value instead of toggling through'em to find desired settings - If a 3rd party SDK for interfacing a pit is avaliable (reference mention it but I can't find any additional notes) consider a free non comercial option or one at a minimal fee above notes is based on old lomac and FC. Havn't yet entered the realms of FCII and BS :-) and await the DCS-10C cheers gus

Panel's a beauty A. Looking forward to more when you return Gus

As far I know it shows the diff between the HARS attitudesystem and input from magnetic sensors. Agree it a kinda "neerd" thing to to implement and likely not used in the sim :-) I plan to use a amp meter needle just for the fun of it :doh:just in case it might be useful in the future For the knobs... PM inbound Cheers Gus

edit: i.e if you target to implement that function

Great progress y2kiah - Dont you ever sleep ? LOL Whats you plan to how to control the "Mag needle" on the COMP panel ? Gus

Hi Puma. Getting original "dzuz" in Nato MIL standard (sorry, got no partnumber or supplier except the manufacturer itself) will cost you a small fortune due you need the rails also. Both turns up on ebay from time to time. Another option is to use replicas that can be found at more reasonable prices Two examples: http://temp.aviationsimulationgroupcom.officelive.com/Dzus.aspx http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/replica-fastener-dzus-pintado-p-212.html?language=en Nopp. Only way would be using miniature surface mounted microswiches on a PCB embedded in the bottom of lightpanel itself. Having a lightpanel depth of 7-8 mm might leave space for both PCB, the switch and buttons. I'll go for gutting the home made rails though and using regular key mechanics :) Very good job on the CDU. You have/will manufacture the buttons also ? Any chance of getting a copy of these or a link to manufacturer if that's the case ? Cheers Gus