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-MadCat-

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Everything posted by -MadCat-

  1. I may have to add things. When I clicked "Fly" the new "window" doesn't launch in full screen for me. So if I then click anywhere else other than an interactive element in dcs, I get to the desktop. Turning off "Full Screen" in the options, made the game itself launch again in full screen mode, but cuts my fps in half. Another thing I noticed is the entries for the UH-1H in the defaultsnapviews.lua disappeared. I could fix this with copying the entries from the last version of that file into the "new" one. Maybe anyone else can confirm these things or just tell me it's just my machine ^^ Anyway, thanks a lot for the upgrade :thumbup: Next big step (for me) is full release of the UH-1 :music_whistling: Greetings MadCat
  2. If by disengaging you mean reset the trim, that's "normal" behavior. The "untrimmed" position is the park position. At that, the nose is pointing slightly below the horizon compared with normal flight or hover (at the extreme). That untrimmed position at mission start prevents the helicopter from moving if wheel brakes are disabled but will make the nose pitch up violently in flight when trim is reset. However there is no trim reset function in the real Ka-50 and I for my part haven't used it more than a few times when BS1 was originally released. There is no need for a trim reset function in my eyes and I don't even have it mapped because of that. Get in the habit to always trim for every change in attitude, even trim when just taxiing and soon you will find no use for the trim reset anymore. Greetings MadCat
  3. I have put together a replay doing the complete cold start. I derived this order from the supplied check lists together with additional info from the flight manual and some adjustments of my own. In case anyone wondering, "Guinea Pig" is my test pilot doing all the "dirty work" for me. He gets all the maiden flights and the flights where "he" is instructed to test new crazy s##t, about which you can tell beforehand that it will end in a fireball. But no need to worry about him though, he already went to hell and back only with a few burned hairs and the need for a new, dry flight suit. Notes: At times I waited for certain "triggers" before I continued, when done in "real time" some things do overlap in the procedure. I skipped the check for Anti-Ice systems (only performed then FAT <5°C) I skipped the tests for the Gas Generator Governor (engines produce too much power even in idle to not pass the governor threshold put to test mode without the risk of taking off). I didn't bother with any flight planning in abris or pvi-800. I didn't cover many switches which are meant to be set up by personal preference (round selector, rate of fire, etc) Track only covers cold start and ends once all systems are up and I am cleared for taxi. I ignored some timings (such as 1 minute apu warm-up before engine start, 2 minutes unloaded before shutdown) The track is rather long with about 25 minutes, in real time the start up can be done in less than 5 minutes. I couldn't give information like what temperatures not to exceed at start up etc, but tried as good as possible to show with the mouse what to pay attention to. I don't claim it is 100% correct, but I'm confident it is very close. Enjoy, I hope it helps somewhat. Greetings MadCat Ka-50_Complete_Cold_Start.trk
  4. Flight manual page 338: I'll give you that it is possible to fly without, yet not recommended. Hence making that a bad habit or name it however you want to. Why encourage things that are not recommended by the engineers and test pilots who worked to compile the flight manual. It isn't in there for no reason. Greetings MadCat
  5. Bad habbit to turn off the AP channels then trim and then reengage them ! When you trim, you also "recenter" that 20% "control window" of the corresponding channels. AP only makes use of its 20% authority, as long as your controls are centered to where you trimmed them last. Outside of that it only provides damping. If you find the AP fighting the controls, correct accordingly and retrim, all is fine. You don't shift the 20% "control window" with your controls, it stays put where you last trimmed. So if your controls are 1% off of the correct hover, correct with controls, retrim and the 20% control window will be recentered to the correct position. Only AP channel you should be allowed to disengage in flight would be the alt hold. On that note, you are even supposed to trim the helicopter during taxi, so from the moment you leave the parking position, until you shut down the engines again, pitch roll and heading are supposed to stay on. Greetings MadCat
  6. To maybe give another view to the entire issue. Just because we don't have the "seat of the pants feeling" we HAVE to rely on visual feedback for control corrections (yes, I am ignoring FFB users right now). In my eyes this massive shaking (been confirmed way overdone by several rl pilots by now already) is rather misleading in that process. I vote for reducing it to a realistical level ! "It's overdone on purpose" is no valid reason to me, again my personal opinion. It wasn't done for the GAU-8 to "feel" the gun when firing, why start with this "compensations for no seat of the pants feeling" now ? I know the ship shakes and there are vibrations. -> But if the module claims to be the most realistic representation of the UH-1H there is for the pc, please keep the vibrations and shaking to a real level too! <- About the whobble on start up, yes I too think it's overdone. If I were the engineer in charge, I'd ground that helicopter to get the head balanced again. My personal opinion on the entire shaking story. MadCat
  7. We already know that we get a clean version of the huey, that alone is great ! But I'd like to ask, concerning the picture of the clean version in the update section, why has the wire strike protection system been removed too? This isn't just limited to military use, every owner can equip his/her ship with a WSPS which greatly increases safety and actually is quite common on helicopters operating in urban areas or where there are a lot of powerlines. It may not be part of the standard equipment, but if I'd own a helicopter a WSPS would be a must. Just an idea, let me know if you guys are absolutely against a WSPS on the clean version, it will be awesome nonetheless :thumbup: MadCat
  8. Whoever you want to talk to :D Check Flight Manual page 520 "Airdrome data" for reference on frequencies.
  9. You actually have to use the Radio in the helicopter instead of the little "cheat" comms menu on the ground. Bind the "SPU-9 PTT" command in the options to your joystick and work the helicopter's radio properly. Enable power to the radios you want to use (Intercom, VHF-2) on the forward lower wall panel, set correct frequency for VHF-2 on the left panel, and set the radio distribution selector to the correct channel on the left panel. All should work as it should. Greetings MadCat
  10. Sorry for maybe being a little too upfront right now ! But the cold start is horribly out of order. To write down the complete start up now, would take way too long, have a look in the flight manual and work through the checklists. Learn it the right way the first time round and avoid acquiring bad habbits ! About the AP channels, at least pitch roll and heading should be on all the time. Flying without those channels enabled is considered an emergency procedure and not advised otherwise. The helicopter will behave way more stable with them enabled as they are able to control/damp the helicopter within 20% control authority. About the trimming, try again with the AP enabled and see if it works any better. Trim for every change in attitude ! Greetings MadCat
  11. Flying rc helicopters myself, I say that video is real. It is absolutely possible to do these kind of extreme maneuvers. As already mentioned, power to weight ratios are beyond insanity with purpose built 3D machines and those typisally just weigh in at just a few kg with very low disk loading. We are talking about rotor head speeds of 3000+ rpm ! Greetings MadCat
  12. Also see here for a little discussion about the topic http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=105277&page=5 Greetings MadCat
  13. Thanks for the info ! I had a look through the "Organizational Maintainance Manual" for the AN/ARN-83. And if I understood everything alright, this should sum it up nice and short. Chapter 2-2: "[...] In any operating mode, the direction finder set will provide an aural output of any audio modulating the radio station rf carrier. [...]" For every submode (ADF, ANT, LOOP) there is a note to adjust gain volume to a comfortable level, if desired. So the set should always give audio to the headphones. Yet I cannot find any information about an automatic gain control in said manual. Will post this in the bugreport too. Greetings MadCat
  14. Quick and dirty, as it's already close to sunrise: For the trimmer, I got used to hold the trimmer button, then adjust to the new attitude then release the button and move the stick back to center (no center trimmer mode, caused me too many crashes, fast down on the deck). When I try to (as it actually is the right way to do it) trim in a single (several) button press(es) instead of holding the button, my chopper bounces too. Didn't figure it out yet, as holding works very well for me. Maybe I just do something wrong. As for the engine start up, you need to wait for the start valve light on the left console to go off before you switch the selector to any other position. So left engine selected, start button, start valve light on, turbine rpm increasing, open cut-off valve at 20%, confirm rotor movement at 25%, at 60-65% start valve light off, proceed with right engine. If you need any more info, either let me know or I'm sure some other folks will be right around the corner to give more in depth advise too very soon. Gn8 :D MadCat
  15. @ Exorcet Thanks for not ripping apart my entire post :D The first thing about the venturi effect actually was edited shortly before your post, my mind isnt all the fastest that late :D As said aerodynamics isn't my major and honestly I even hated flow mechanics back then. Now that you mention reverse flow patterns, some more things come to mind again. I still hated flow mechanics. :lol: Hope the rest of my post wasn't total rubbish or I may be better off editing all to "I don't have ANY clue". :music_whistling: Greetings MadCat
  16. I didn't attend aerodynamics lectures, but as physics in general is no closed book to me, I'll try to get it right. I apologise in advance for a long post. Tried to keep it as short as possible right now. The thing that causes lift with an airfoil in the first place is its shape and the way the airflow travels over the somewhat more curved top side of the wing. The airflow will naturally tug onto the curvature of the wing and simply said "bending" over the wing, create an area of lower pressure above the wing. This, together with the mostly unchanged airflow beneath the wing will result in a pressure difference between the top side and the bottom, creating lift. This effect can be increased with higher AOA. One could also argue to explain lift with Newton's laws of motion or even Bernoulli's principle, which both would be capable of describing the "phenomenon" too. What happens with a stall is, the area where the air flow on the top side of the wing becomes turbulent, moves towards the leading edge. The layer of turbulences increases in thickness orthogonally to the direction of flow. At one point the layer becomes big enough and close enough to the leading edge that the airflow detaches from the top side of the wing. The result is a stall. The stall is mostly, but not entirely, AOA dependant and each wing profile has its own critical stallspeed. Lower speeds consequently give a lower pressure difference, further increasing the "chances" of a stall as higher AOA are needed to compensate for the lower pressure difference. The thing with higher speeds is, that the airflow is also faster. That means the cone of the turbulent layer is also narrower and thus giving more of a threshold before the airflow detaches from the wing. However other things come into play with higher speeds. Such as increased centripetal force in turns with constant angular velocity. Plus, with higher speeds the reynolds number increases too. That makes a previously laminar flow more sensible for small irregularities in its path and it easier translates into a turbulent flow, again bad for lift. So when you turn with higher speed, you need more force to keep your craft on a constant circular path. That increases the demand for a higher pressure difference between the top and bottom of your wing (more lift needed). Once you overdo it, the plane will stall out, the airflow above the wing will again detach and you have an accelerated (>1g condition) stall. That's why there is an area of best turn performance which isn't either to slow or too fast. The "feeling" that you can pull harder on the stick is subjective as with higher speeds you reach higher Gs with less throw (refer back to increased centripetal force at higher speed with constant angular velocity). Besides that you will have a harder time deflecting the control surfaces at higher speeds anyway and I don't quite know to what degree it is modeled. But if my mind serves me right, I read somewhere that it is modeled so the joystick movement and the virtual stick movement may not be the same at all speeds. Hope I could shed some light onto this. Please correct me if I'm wrong on some parts or left out any vital parts. In my defence, I didn't major in aerodynamics and the fluid mechanics lectures are quite some time ago. So I don't guarantee for 100% accuracy of description of the stall phenomenon and all the physics incolved. Greetings MadCat
  17. That procedure for the ADF / NDB is just as I thought it to be, thanks for confirming it. Working just the way I learned it in the shark, except with the preset channels and inner/outer beacons to check. What puzzles me is the following: Switching the mode selector from OFF to ADF the first time and tuning some with the frequency dial, I can tune in static noise as well als morse code. Do I then switch the mode selector to ANT, I hear static noise too just as it would be supposed to be, then switching back to ADF, the noise is gone as it should be. In that process I didn't touch the frequency knob once I first tuned to some static noise. With a bit fiddeling around I can tune again static noise, as well as some morse code while being at ADF and to get rid of that noise, I have to switch to ANT and back to ADF. I wonder if that is normal behavior or a bug in the current build. Meanwhile I figured out too, that if I keep it at ADF, the received noise or morse signal fades after some seconds. So question is, is it correct the way it is and even if on ADF the radio gives a few seconds of audio on the headphones when there is a newly tuned/received signal (be it noise or morse). Or is it a bug and the ADF position should at all times just loop the received signal to the compass and never to the headphones. Try it for yourself, when on ADF you can tune all day long and hear static noise and morse code, which in return you can then wait for it to fade out on its own, or "kill" it with switching to ANT and back to ADF. I haven't had the time yet to look in the manual if this may really be correct as it is or not. On that note, many thanks for the manual. I have so far only quickly googled for the AN/ARC-134 manual. Greetings MadCat
  18. Physics unfortunately dictate a different effect. Due to gyroscopic precession, forces applied to a spinning disk take effect roughly 90° out of phase. So a retreating blade stall will tilt the rotor disk aft (not to the side) and pitch the helicopter's nose up, and thereby the effect corrects itself once you run out of forward stick travel to counteract the pitch up tendency and can't go any faster. The vibrations with increased speed are caused by the combination of the speed of the advancing blade with the forward velocity of the system itself (the helicopter), causing vibrations starting at the tip of the advancing blade where the absolute speed is the highest. Greetings MadCat
  19. To once again have a grab onto the morse code audio. To my understanding, it is supposed to work like that. When the mode selector is in the ADF position, the radio loops through the signal to the compass for heading indication. The ANT position puts the morse signal to the headphones to aurally confirm the selected beacon. That's how I learned it in the shark and so far expected the huey radio(s) to work the same way. In fact I even wondered, why I hear ANY morse code when the selector is in the ADF position. Correct me if I'm wrong. @wess24m Would it be possible to share the radio manual(s) ? Greetings MadCat
  20. Hi ozTRipwiRE ! 2 possible reasons, according to the track. 1. You have the "Corrector" assigned to the one throttle, collective to the other and move them together. In that case disconnect them and keep the "corrector"-throttle full forward/back, whatever is max for you. (that's how I use it btw, left throttle is assigned to the corrector, right to collective) 2. The controls are somehow mixed up and one axis is somehow assigned to pitch AND corrector. In that case a simple reassignment in the options should do the trick. Greetings MadCat
  21. After all, you fly a helicopter, so make the terrain work for you. Use it as cover, safely assess the situation outside of the enemy's range and only then engage. Concerning about the actual missile evasion, be prepared for it. Disengage towards closest cover, that can be left or right or just to drop the collective. Program the dispensers to the direction you expect to be engaged from, so that in case of evasion the active dispenser faces your enemy. If you are evasive to either side, drop collective and go for the deck and some speed, that will lower your EGT and increases the temperature difference to the flares. Keep in mind, trees neither provide any cover nor do they break line of sight for the AI. Rather drop some flares to many, than to end up shot with half your flares left. Flares can only help with heat seeking missiles, so know what systems you are facing and plan your attack accordingly. The better you are prepared, the less likely you will get surprised. For the greater part of me getting shot down, I later realize I just was too overeager, again. MadCat
  22. Keep in mind, the autopilot only has 20% authority over the controls. If your hover trim is off by more than these 20% relative to the perfect hover trim, the autopilot cannot compensate for that. Also don't engange the auto hover below 4m altitude, as this will cause the autopilot to disengage all currently active channels that manually need to be activated again. If you keep this in mind and use the system within its capabilities, it works perfectly fine. MadCat
  23. Check here for fuel tank management. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=108398 MadCat
  24. This is a small one and I actually am not sure if this is more of a UH-1H or a general thing. I love the new kneeboard with all the additional pages, but how about putting the airports in an alphabetical order ? That would make "finding" the desired airport easier and faster, as its name is the first thing you keep in mind. MadCat
  25. Hi everybody ! Sorry to highjack this thread, but as my problem is very similar, I did not want to open another one. To the issue: Did the way, the control settings .lua files are working change ? I tried to create stateful commands just the way I did all for the Ka-50. Example code for the starter generator: {down = 3011, cockpit_device_id = 1, value_down = 2, name = "Starter-Generator STARTER", category = "Ins Overhead panel"}, For the value_down I tried all from -2 to 2, but all of those moved the switch both directions, instead of setting one switch state. I tried this for several switches, like main fuel, governor, anti collision and so on. No luck with any of these. I absolutely know it is still in beta and thus hope all this gets "fixed" and all the missing buttons/switches get added to the controls too. But if it works and I just did it wrong/it works in a different way to the Ka-50, please let me know! Thanks in advance! MadCat
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