MacFevre

I think AGRASYUK has some pretty good pics of how he put a rotary switch with the TM MFCDs. I still need to do the same thing myself.

Still looking good DM. Get better soon.

It was lasered. From Linden. I wish I had one, but I don't. Ronin - the guages are a 24" screen. The switch panel is just a drilled plastic panel, just like Duckling's. All of the buttons are done with laser by Linden.

Thanks for the drawing. I appreciate it. It's perfect and exactly what I've been unsuccessfully trying to do myself. Thank you again! And DM, that pic of the FMT from Moody AFB, it's just perfect. Exactly how I envision yours will look. ;) It seems a lot smaller for some reason than mine? Oh well, it's probably just the angle.

Seems like it been some time since I updated anything. Just a quick message to say Happy New Year to everyone. I've been working on my UFC and Caution Panel. Here's the Caution Panel. And UFC But, now I've taken the UFC apart again. :eek: Reason being is I wasn't real happy with the way the buttons were attached to the caps, and that I still need to backlight it and wire the button LEDs. The caps were basically just a square piece of plexi, painted and etched. That meant to attach the cap to the button, it was simply placed on top with some glue. (I used clear RTV as I wanted to be able to separate them if I needed to.) Now I've been experimenting with drilling a small cutout in the back of the cap to sit over the button. I will still have to glue it, but now it won't be moving around. It's not the best, but unless someone is making real caps with letters on them, it will have to do. Also unfortunately, I've ordered several different "green" LED buttons from different manufacturers, and they still come more as a "yellow/green." Anyone know for sure if anyone does NVIS green or real green?? This is how I've made the cap back, for now at least. (Unless someone can suggest differently?) I tried with a regular jobber drill, but that left it too bowl shape. I've tried a brad point bit, but that had a large center that would poke through the front. I even tried to grind down the center, but it still didn't come out like I wanted. Finally tried a 1/4" Dremel router bit that seems to work pretty well. Note, I didn't square up the switch very well before I took the picture.

Agree with the backlighting note! I haven't yet turned on the either lighting for the UFC, but without it I wind up having to look onscreen to see what button is what. :)

Looks great! Love the UFC. You wouldn't happen to want to share the drawing or Eagle diagram or even the schematic for it, would you? I'd like to do something similar, even though I've completed the UFC I'd still like to create a more "pro" one. That way I could maybe do the same with the CDU. (If you'd like to sell it instead, I'd even be willing to do that.) Did you make the PCB yourself? Looks great!

Very informative video. Thanks for the upload. When/If I get my Warthog stick, I'll keep this in mind!

Thanks DM.

DM did you get my information on the Warthog? Was it sufficient, or did you need more? Also, not sure what that 1TL62-7 came from, but it looks a bit like the switch that blows the fire suppression for the engine fire system. Don't know where that number came from, though.

That looks about perfect. Too bad they're looking to be about $30 for 10 of them! Was wondering if you might be able to tell me again how you attached the buttons? I'm afraid I'm not quite getting it, and I'd really like to understand as I still have to make the CDU and it has twice as many buttons as the UFC, and that was a pain!

That is a very beautiful thing. I'm sure yours will shortly look very similar. I too am anxious for the EOS system.

Gus, have you found a more appropriate tactile switch? One that's more green than yellow? I know it's too late (maybe) for my UFC, but I still have a CDU to wire up, and would like this one to be green. Also, I'd like to find a better way of attaching the buttons then just placing them on the switch with a dab of glue and hoping they turn out straight and working, if you know what I'm talking about? How are you doing it? Thanka

Hey DM, question for you. Not knowing anything about casting, how much more work would it be to create a mold and cast the fire pull handles? (Or do you happen to have a decent site bookmarked for the making of?) I have the APU handle, but not the engines. I could send you the handle I have if you'd like. I realize I'm asking a lot, which is why I won't be surprised if you tell me to go pound salt. :tomato: Otherwise, I'm cool with waiting however long it takes. I know how your casts turn out, so it's definitely worth the wait. And DM, thanks for doing the handles in the first place. I know I really appreciate it and am not sure how my pit would look without your professional touches.

I live in the states, and even I don't have many opportunities to get A-10 parts. Luckily, most pit-builders have the resources to make their own, and we're happy to share that knowledge. First thing I would do is start, like suggested, with a monitor and a HOTAS system. After you have those things, follow the first and only sticky in the pit builders forum to create your first panel, and the sky is the limit from there on. Take advantage of other DK builders like HMA if you run into a language barrier. Good luck! Shout out if you need help, someone will be in hearing distance.

The pseudo-Korrys look excellent! Great idea , thanks.

Starting my home cockpit step by step Ok. Gotta stop ya right there. It's that whole wife yelling kids angry, no it's worse - reverse that! Kids yelling wife angry! Now I've only got 26 years of marriage behind me, with only one of them being pit related, but from experience this is where you must tread lightly if this project is to go to much further. You will find, if you are even remotely like the rest of us, that a pit wife needs to be happy. In fact, it's pretty much a requirement that she hovers above happy and into the ecstatic area. Does not matter about what. Your primary goal from now on is to keep her happy no matter what, as she can have devastating consequences on the further outcome of your pit. Like it or not, an errant flip of her wrist can uproot the entire pit relegating it to the garage, or worse, the dumpster. On a whim, she can make you the happiest soul on the planet and approve the purchase of something as simple as a Phidgets card or as complicated as an entire FMT. (Looking at you DM) Of course I could be wrong. After working these pits awhile, crazy seems to start looking like pit addiction. Sounds like a new reality show! Pit Addict. just way too late for me to even try and be witty, so good luck.

I'm chillin'. ;) Don't worry, be happy and all that other stuff.

Exactly! :D

Know anywhere to get a Korry 318? I've been searching on eBay without much luck.

Mainly the instruments. Currently, until I get brave enough to attempt the pit 2.0, I'm using simple over-the-counter MFCDs from TM. Brings up another point, am I simply crazy, or have others gotten to a point when building their pit when they say, "You know, I really ought to do this all over again." I mean, for the most part I'm pretty happy with the progress, especially it being a first attempt. But there is a little part of me that is having a better time building the thing than flying it... I know, pretty sacrilegious, but that's that. I know I still have to go to the books when figuring out how to drop ordinance, but I'm in the process of figuring out how to make PCBs simply to make underneath the CDU look nice! (Because I'm done with the UFC, and it's admittedly the worst soldering job I think I've ever done!) Even learning how to work with Arduinos. You young ones might not think its a big deal, but being on the back 9, it is. ;) Then pits come along like DM's and Tacno's, and I just want to start over. (After spending a couple grand retooling...) :D All for what? Telling ya, crazy!

I'm trying to make my MIP look a little sharper and was wondering if anyone had any drawings or 1:1 PDFs for the instrument bezels? I would really appreciate it. I tried searching for any, and didn't find any on the board. They seem to have some for sale over on VP, but I'm unsure if they are the same. I'm guessing everyone's making them out of... Plexi? Wood? I figure black painted wood would probably do it. Thanks,

Very nice! I have just completed my UFC, and have the same color tactile switches. I briefly considered changing them to a more green color, but after that nightmare of a soldering job, I think I'll be leaving it as is. :)

Very nice, Boltz. I'm always interested in I/O, and always looking for ways for help in my own pit. Keep up the great work and I'll be watching with great interest! Thanks.

Wow, DM. You must've really done a number on your hand. Take care, eh? If you need anything, let me know. I'll do whatever I am able to help ya out. Have you thought about also doing the fire handles? Just curious. If you don't want anything to do with the fire handles, I might have to learn how to cast them myself, I'm not really looking forward to that, though. ;)