MacFevre

Hey Ice, just to be curious, why the changeover? I myself have about three different I/O systems right now. Arduino with EOS, Bodnar, and Brydling. I'd like to go all Arduino, but don't quite yet have the skills. ;)

Wow Duck, that's quite a, well, let's just say that I'm am more than impressed with your incredible nest building skills! :thumbup:

I think, for me anyway, it's sometimes difficult for me to find the time to do a mission with refueling. Perhaps one of these days I'll figure out how to make missions where it will start me out close behind the tanker so I don't always have to first find, catch up, get behind, etc. Good to know about the Warthog, though. Thanks.

I'm sorry, Cali, but your not helping my situation out very well at all! I just put new gimbals into my Cougar, but I've still got a pretty good bump going through either axis, not just through the center. Now I've saved up enough to purchase a Warthog, and every single time I go to purchase it, I psych myself out and say, "Man, that's a lot of money!" Now you come along and say it's easy for you to A2A Refuel when you got the Warthog. What to do, what to do. :music_whistling:

Steve, the actual ribbon cables and their connectors are all just a crimp type connector. You kind of press the cable into the connector which is similar to an Ethernet plug connector. The board side is just regular header pins in a box shroud.

These are really amazing DM, and I'm more than willing to pay the price, especially since they actually work! In fact, that aux landing gear handle alone could go for a lot more. It's really a shame that I doubt it will ever get used.

Welcome Kaiser! OK, I know, I'm a little late to the party. ;)

Program for export data (uv26, pvi, pui800) for dcs ka50 Fantastic. What a great addition to the section! Would it be too soon Peter to ask how you got it to the display board? I've got a Gadroc CMSP that I'd like to fill out the display on.

I've got a Cougar that I'm currently putting new Gimbals into. I'm going to try Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Grease. It's a ca poly that supposed to be plastics safe. I've done a lot of checking, and it was between that or the molykote cl20(?) Amazon had both, but I was able to get the EWG sooner. It's a lot better than just a lithium or a simple silicone. Just my 2¢

Just letting you know Boltz, if been anxiously waiting for this since your announcement on the other board. I know Gadroc been working on a inexpensive hardware solution for his EOS, but that has yet to bear any fruit. Haven't heard from him in awhile and hope everything's alright. Anyway, thanks for this, and if you ever need me to test anything for you, let me know! :)

Of course it looks amazing! I only wish I could give you rep points instead of having to "spread it around." I'm kind-of with Hans on this one. I need to work on my pit some more with more attention to detail! And DM, thanks for your hard work. I know you don't have to go through such lengths to make things with such precision, but I'm glad you are.

A10C Simulator - Test Setup I don't mind it personally, as long as it's known that it's what can be done by a great (albeit expensive) commercial enterprise with professional designers and equipment. I suppose on that account, it would be better in the For Sale section. If you were a home builder though, you might want to know about it. It's a beautiful piece of kit, and I'd definitely be interested if I had an extra 20 shares of Apple stock that I could sell. ;) I've always thought it would be great if I could at least afford a couple of instruments from them because really, they are nice. I'm, unfortunately, not someone with that much disposable income, especially in this economy. However if you are, more power to you!

Very nicely done! Now you don't even need a breakout board on the Brydling end! The more I think about it, I'm thinking maybe I'll try something similar. (Instead of using the RJ45 method.) I know that's very much like what Hans had done, but I never put the two things together for the 40 pins. Thanks for waking me up! :thumbup:

Hans, I must apologize! I don't believe I thanked you for the CDU file. I was out of town when I got it, so wasn't really able to take a look, so when I got back I totally forgot to give you a shout.

Very nice! Do as much as you can while you can. ;) Mr. Burns, I've tried several different brands of the lit tactile buttons. I have yet to find any that are green. Any, (that I've tried,) all seem to come out as a yellow/green, more yellow than green. If you find any that are real green, please let us know! Also DC, try shooting all your painted stuff with a matte finish clear coat. Deadman clued me to that one. Once I did that, everything took on a well-finished professional look to it. Plus it protects it from small scratches and the like.

Excellent! You should be very pleased with what you've accomplished.

I'm sorry, RS? Is that real stock? Agree with Devon about it being expensive. But otherwise, I say the more the merrier! (As long as a standard can be formed.) You planning only hardware, or trying to come up with an interface also?

Hey nice! But, aren't you supposed to be off in a honeymoon?

Can't wait, and it's going to be one of those once in a lifetime deals that I'm glad I was in on. Thanks DM

Pictures? :D

Yeah, same as on VGA cables or serial cables or the parallel 25 pins like you were thinking. Some do have the standard molex pins that can be crimped onto the wires and go into and out of the connectors with a tool that wraps around the shoulder so it can be slid past the internal stop. But your right. The solder ones can be a pain. It's what I used on my Aux Lighting panel. (The solder 15 pin.)

Like the ones here. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DB-15FP/DB-15-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-NO-PINS/1.html They have DB-9, or DB15, etc. For serial cables. Also can be called Sub-D or D-Sub.

What Hans posted was what I was referring to. He's the one who showed me the DIY breakout board, except with mine I'm simply using inexpensive RJ45 Ethernet connectors instead of the DB connectors. I'm sure I'll be a lot better at all this when I make my cockpit Mark II. ;)

Thus the EOS. ;) Before I started looking at the Arduino, I bought a butt-load of male and female RJ45 jacks and screw connectors that I was planning on using. I did do a couple panels this way. I made my own breakout boards and tied in the diodes directly on the board so I wouldn't have to solder them straight to the switch terminals themselves. Then using a bunch of cable left over from wiring Ethernet in the house and the male jacks, made my own cabling. You wouldn't have to, but I kept with the standard b wiring on the jacks, just in case I repurposed the cables or had to use a bought cable. Worked out well, I just didn't like all the soldering. ;) If you need a few (dozen ;) ) jacks, let me know. :D

The AAP works great, though! I too have a Brydling (and a Bodnar,) but I also wanted to play around with making wholly independent panels so I didn't have to run lots of wires or make interfacing solutions. Helios is pretty sweet though as a full service type of DCS interface, as long as it's only the A-10 or the KA-50. Not sure on any other aircraft. Curious what you'll come up with for the, uh, community. :music_whistling: I'm interested in knowing if Gadroc is still planning on inexpensive board solutions. I was going to ask if you couldn't just drill screw holes, but if your correcting other matters ;) I know exactly what you mean. I think I mentioned somewhere that I too was enjoying the build over flying. :D (But that's just because I keep telling myself that once I get it all built, well that's the time I'll really get into learning the ins and outs of the flying part.)