weeb

In simplistic terms yes new processor will rule the roost, motherboard is a bottleneck. http://ark.intel.com/products/41447/Intel-Core-i7-930-Processor-8M-Cache-2_80-GHz-4_80-GTs-Intel-QPI http://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_40-GHz there it is for you in black and white. Over to you m8 weeb

Think we got a group here buddy. Honestly I can't believe how welcome they made a noob like me. I have boards and shit all over the place but they have given me a place to start, they are not judgmental, stupid questions! hell they even answer them. You popped into my thread and worried about a hijack, I'm in your thread. I think now we gonna have some of the best a10-c pits. I wish other guys all the best with their f-18 pits and helicopter pits, because we are here to help each other. If I don't know how a switch speaks to DCS, someone does. :joystick:

Thanks John Huge amount of information to take in and absorb. I am going to do this no matter what! you will probably get pissed off with me and stupid questions. If I can take the prop nut off a submarine at 10 metres under water because it's cheaper than putting it in a dry dock. (Don't ask I won't respond) Means I'm up for it. So the stepper motors do the 90-90 lateral, where does that come in for cutting panels. I take it that's the 90-90 vertical. I know it's simple for you but I am trying to think in 3d here. I think If I get a machine it will be easier, is 1200 euros a fair price for one. Like you I am well versed in ignoring Chinese copies.?

2100 Micro mill*‐*complete, manual operation, with ER16 spindle £980.00 2101 Set of 3 NEMA 23 stepper motor mounts and couplers (for converting the mill to CNC)£150.00 2100H Replacement ER16 headstock £85.00

This is where it comes apart for me. I went on the site and its a milling machine, need to get side stepper motors etc, add this, add that, I don't know where to start. If I am going to spend £1000+ uk, I need to know I'm not buying a very expensive boat anchor. Thanks for info, I will phone them after the New Year, tell them what I am looking for and what I need it to do and see what they come up with. weeb :thumbup:

Cheers mate I will give them a look. Appreciated. weeb

Absolutely No problem McFevre, I'm just stunned at the support and interest my simple thread has brought to the forum. Use this thread for contact, I don't mind. As Warhog says, I suppose it's just a matter of how much you want to spend, personally I have caught the bug, I'm retired now, plenty of time, I'm anal about detail. If I spent money on a cnc machine I would learn cad. @Warhog can you suggest a cnc machine and software in my budget of 1200 euros or is that just not gonna happen for that amount of money? Keep the discussion coming, I'm learning from every post. :thumbup:

Warhog "All other pit switches will go to the position I have set them hardwired before unpausing the game. Did you use a modified joystick.lua file or the original one?" Han's modified lua file negated a lot of the synchronization problems, but I am now going Arduino all the way, purely cost related to be perfectly honest. weeb

Not being patronizing here but I think you have proved yourself as the guru when It comes to pit building. Why not get mods to sticky a post with the link to your pit build, saves you time coming here and posting again duplicates of what are already on your Flikr site. Just a thought. In response to drawing programmes, I have photoshop6 and paint :megalol: I have no Cad training whatsoever. My father who was an engineer looked at some of my drawings I had done in paint and thought they were CAD. I learned to adapt. CNC or Lazer, nothing yet, I have been looking at purchasing or building a CNC machine but it's a minefield. I have laid aside a budget of roughly 1200 euros re CNC but the more I research it, the more confused I get in all honesty. Cutting the panels on black perspex is not a problem its printing the switch labels I see as the worst hurdle to overcome. weeb

Happy New Year peeps. Filament This is my honest opinion, I know it may not suit everyone but that's freedom of speech. I never had the inkling in all my life to fly flight simulators. I can't even remember how I found DCS but I did, and I have never looked back. I didn't just want to use it, I wanted to dig deeper and understand it. I have almost all the modules, with that came a huge amount of information to digest. ED don't always get it right but if I can fly about for 3 hours bombing the shit out of things and 1 problem in the game shows up, whats the beef? It's not like I'm locked out of the game like Sony and MS which were obliterated over Christmas. When you see their problems "extending flaps" pales into the term insignificant. I'm not taking a pop at you, so please don't think that, what I am trying to say is what one person may think is significant, another may say it's trivial. I understand your frustration, you are obviously an intelligent guy, your screen name indicates you know about the internal matrix of a light bulb. Keep it "light hearted", so far so good. weeb

Anyone got diameter of the Hanson Coupling pipe?, Think I stand corrected, it's not Hanson Coupling (we used them on our Sat Drysuits), are they all screw fit connectors? weeb

Look what I found kicking about the loft. It's from a late 70's early 80's soda stream. Looks just the job. I have a spare one if someone needs one. :thumbup:

Thanks for the info Warhog, I wondered about that in hindsight. I appreciate your input. I am going onto Arduinos for my full size build. I have downloaded all the DCS-Bios stuff and working my way through it. The BBi32 was basically a proof of concept, just to see If I had it in me to see a build through to completion. AS you say Arduino's are cheap, have got 5 coming, I just need to put them into a drawing so I can see what is going to run what. Boltz, HMA and FSFIan have been a huge help. I took a look at your website and was gobsmacked at what you have done. I'm a beginner, no doubt about it, but I have this thirst for knowledge, too much time on my hands and a spare room shouting out a10 cockpit. :pilotfly:

My A10-c, I thought I would stick together a simple diagram to get you at it. As I started thinking about it, My mind just got flooded with, what, why, how? So I thought about it, chatted to others and decided. Only way I am going to learn is do it and learn from my mistakes. First thing to me was proof of concept, can I make a switch work that clicks a switch in the sim. Yes! people had done it before me so lets look at the options. 1. Q. Can I make a simple switch that connects to the sim? A. Yes, what do I need? Ok lets take a panel and decide what it does and how I can make it. 2. Q. Can I make the Elec Pwr panel A. Yes, its 6 switches 5 on/off, 1 on/off/on, did a search, test is not used in sim so off/on is fine. 3. Q. Where can I get switches? A. I got all mine on ebay and Maplin. I need a box to hold the switches, Maplin again, so I had the box, got the switches let's put this together. 4. How will the switch box interface with the sim? I went for the BBi32 button box purely for it's simplicity, it can run rotary encoders but that's for a different lesson. See below, this is wiring diagram for your first box. If you want to go step by step, let me know, I know nothing in comparison to some of the guys here, but I'm here to help if needed. weeb So here we go: Box from Maplins, BBI32 from LeoBodnar. I mounted the board using the small brass fittings for a motherboard and used a glue gun to secure them. Soldered the necessary wires and inserted them into the board. Some rubber stick on feet from Ebay. Completed Box. place holder:

Oculus Rift: I respect your opinion and hopefully you will respect mine. Oculus Rift does not suit everyone as it stands just now, it's like work in progress. I have just learned how to make a cockpit, and have a couple of tactile boxes. I switch a switch it turns in the game. End ov, If it develops better maybe I might have a look at the Rift, I'm not turning this into an Oculus Rift fanboy V. Full 3d sim fanboy, but I'm happy as I am, if I need to make a chopper, I just unplug usb, insert other usb, job done. I have huge monitor setup here 24,27,24, using tir, I look like 20 degrees, buttons not hardwired appear. I have softth working with bezel correction, I know i'm gonna struggle when Edge comes out DX issues, you know what, I will deal with that then.The question here was about choosing monitor so Oculus Rift doesn't even come into the argument, or am I missing something here? weeb

Having had time to read the whole review of the Phillips 40", the bit on "viewing angles" sets off alarm bells (IPS still rules for the moment). I'll stay with triple monitors for the time being.

Sorry for confusion Deadman. Postal2 is not my friend who is looking for the decals, he stated in a post above that he wanted the last set. If he does not follow up on this I will take the 2 sets no problem. Once again sorry for the confusion. weeb

What graphics card/cards would be needed to drive the Phillips 40 inch. Anyone able to say?

Nice rig Bro. 3 screens no probs. :pilotfly:

Absolutely superb, my missing link. Learning up on it now Ian, going to simplify my build enormously. Many thanks. weeb :thumbup:

Deadman send them to postal2, not life or death here m8.:thumbup:

Just grabbed a set. Cheers Deadman for immediate response. Appreciated man. Is that the last set or do you still have one? mate pm'd me a short time ago. weeb:thumbup:

If this helps: USB Older style 1.x and (most common USB 2.x) use twisted pair connection, (like direct cable connection between 2 pc's without router or hub), it's complicated but simply put you can use usb cable 1.x max 5 metres with devices that operate at 12MBits/s or 3m at 1.5 MBits/s. Usb2 max 5 metres at 480MBit/s purely because of ping response time, if round-trip delay of signal is too long the host considers the signal is lost. Usb3 max 3 metres. I have used cables longer than specified regulations without degradation so in answer to your question, you wont damage anything trying longer cables as the signal may be degraded, the hub negates this problem, but you might hit the ping response time wall and something stops working. The above is simplified ( I wont go into wiring regulations and twisted pair explanation as the hub switches this around, a good powered hub is the way to go, google will suffice).

What Hans said above, and If you noticed a few people have responded and offered their help, I take it, this is an oversight on your part, no-one hijacked the thread, everything mentioned may have been some help to you. I'm here if you need me, I've built some starter electronics, which I will be able to move straight over to cockpit panels from switch-boxes. let me know m8 weeb

Totally true Sabre. At the moment I get as much fun out of researching and building things. The flying is "as and when something needs tested" but I just love the whole concept of DCS world. I had no interest in flight sims for years and it was my 84 year old father who put me on my current path. He played flight sims and I didn't know what the attraction was until I downloaded DCS free and started playing about with the Frogfoot. My aces 2 is all hand cut and shaped, but I have been looking at hobby CNC machines. The Chinese make some for £400-£500 but I've no idea how reliable or functional they are. I did however find a book called "Build your own CNC Machine" for £700-£800 (That's for the machine not the book), which has caught my interest. But I have to draw a line somewhere, I can't do everything, so I have to prioritize and it's hand cutting the pit for now. :thumbup: