Brewnix

Can you place both on removable bases. Use a Bolt and wing nut to tighten to the chair. Mount the bolts to the chair. Kind of like this!

Hi, I was intrigue about this too. Just throwing this out there if you knew about the GitHub. There is a small section with DCS on it not sure what it has in it. Just in case I thought I would post the link. https://github.com/SimFeedback/SimFeedback-AC-Servo/tree/master/Src

Ok so on different occasions of using the O+ if i stop and force myself to focus on the screen its self i do see small little pixels. But to me its 90% percent better. I will not go back myself to the Rift. As for FPS currently my specs are I7 4790K 4.7 OC 16gbs ram and GTX 1070. I have not really set down to get a base line tweaking of settings. But i fly the harrier in a small mission with 8 stationary vehicles on the ground in Caucus and I get between 35 to 55fps depending location. Mostly 45fps. I set the Steam VR Application to 200% Video 100% "renderTargetScale" 2.0 DCS PD 1.0 Texture and Terrain Textures High Civ Traffic Off Water High Visib Range High Heat Blur Off Shadows Off MSAA Off Depth of Field Off Lens Effect None Motion Blur Off SSAA Off Clutter/Grass 0 Tree visibility 50% Preload Radius max

So I have the Rift and the O+. Personally I have had no issues with running the O+. But I tend tinker any ways so to put my thinking cap on and learn how to tweak and make it better has not been hard. And the only tinkering I have done has been move a slider in steam VR setting and mod a few lines in steamapp code section. But the real reason I bought the O+ for the lack of SDE. I got this cause the SDE was my main problem with the Rift, the current resolution of the Rift would probably work for me if it wasn't for the screens! So to each his own I just wanted the throw this in here that the O+ is not that bad or hard to adjust.

You might of tried this but have you tried making custom rez thru nvidia control panel? My LCD tv are 1080 only but thru Nvidia CP I forced the rez to 7680x1440.

13WELT_JankeS, Ok so ran this "VRCMD" from the file ext you posted but where do i get the info it generates sorry I am not finding it. Currently I have no eye misalignment in the O+ it appears to be even. But I would like to help. Thanks!

Well I was just applauding your ingenuity and quick thinking and thought it was spot on. I have been stewing more then a couple of weeks of trying to dream up 3d printed brackets with sheep skin covering for the straps, ultra plush. Some times I over look the path of least resistant.

That looks great RRohde! This weekend gonna rig something up for my O+.

Thanks wormeaten, That actually gives me a idea. For my Track IR I have used Dual Lock Velcro to secure the Proclip to my headset and can easily be taken off but its strong enough to keep it from wiggling when you turn your head. Regular velcro I felt it was never solid. And I have never had it come unglued from it surface. I can propbably make simple brackets easy to 3D print and just Dual Lock it on the headset. As of right now I have been debating taking off the stock ear muffs. I use a set of astro's. So wondering have you heard anyone doing that yet? Thoughts? https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_328_lp_t_3­?­_­e­n­c­o­d­i­n­g­=­U­T­F­8­&­a­m­p­&­p­s­c­=­1­&­a­m­p­&­r­e­f­R­I­D­=­8­2­A­G­G­5NDC0B03HZ4773C EDIT Maybe these might work too, on my dirtbike helmet I replace the trap on my goggles with these. Kind of expensive but I think I have a set lying around. But to behonest the Velcro on these even when they got muddy never let go. And the hard wear is there already. Just got to get a strap. https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Effex-QS-40-Goggles-Quick/dp/B00J0ASMA6/ref=asc_df_B00J0ASMA6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241881426435&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17246073904177959532&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032360&hvtargid=pla-571493865583&psc=1

Oh good idea! I was plundering trying to draw and 3d print brackets.

Hey philkamul, have you gotten your d box sim working?

Nice! ya that's sort of what I was thinking too. Of coarse something that won't ruin the warranty but maybe a way to snap a clip to the front piece and back piece like the Rift top strap stretchy with Velcro. I imagine just a little more support around the cranium would make it a little more comfortable.

Hey rrohde I have the O+ and have the same issue with the carpet burn feeling. I believe it has to do with maybe only a few points of contact when I wear the O+. Not a perfectly round head. I have adopted wearing a beanie or a soft hunting cap that's insulated, I know it not ideal but it works. I been thinking also of building a strap to attach to the top like the rift that goes over my grape for extra support.

Yes after encoder was selected they don't light up in red boxes anymore. Thats what the button tester was for. Cause it senses the encoders. But if you were to place your multimeter and check the switch across all pins. Middle pin to outside pins you see a momentary shorts on both pins at once. This why in normal button state you see both buttons light at once its getting signal from both traces. When encoder is selected it reads the encoder as intended digitally I guess I am not the exact expert on it but the twist left and right have 2 different signatures. And the shift function sounds like asyou described a way to assign virtual buttons to one button. I have never used the shift function. But I am glad you got it working for MMjoy is cool piece of software.

Your ok testing one encoder with out diodes. Its when you add a second row or column to the matrix is when its safe to have diodes

NP Blue73. Sorry late reply! EDIT-Actually Blue73 how did you get it to pocket the text?

"Don't mix them" I apologize I didn't know that Thanks Sokol1. Rabidscoobie so the encoders I bought I got off Ebay. seven apiece from over seas. I did not look at to what type of encoder they are I just grabbed them and after ae few weeks I got all 6 working in a matrix. So how different are my old ones to the KY 040 I don't know. I would believe that the encoder you pulled off the PCB is standard and wired the same as mine. My main goal was to get the KY 040 working with my known working matrix but as Sokol1 stated its for a different setup with the PCB.

ok interesting, I didn't know! Well I did get it to work with the new ones but I couldn't get the twist and the push button to work together. It was either or. I switched back to use my old stand alone encoders not the new ones like yours. Mqybe that's why it started working. I did almost post a Arduino library link for ya just because I saw it on the Arduino site. It was for the KY 040 encoder and had script for it ready to go. Maybe that might be the way to go. Just a thought.

Yes!!! I adjusted the clicks with the Timer. Timer 1 mine set to 60ms on+off it sets how long the press is held. So when you open VKB button tester did you select the equipment in the pull down menu above the buttons lights? Because encoders don't show up when you use them in the regular button panel of mmjoy.

So I just wired the encoders first. Also try to "clear button set" every time you make a change. I never cleared button set after change but today I did maybe it helped. Also I am not for sure if encoders are supposed to be first I just decided to do it that way for simplicity reason. I also understand you on the frustrating part because I am in same boat. Electronics is a hobby for me and I just started getting in to because of this sim. So you will get there. And there also might be unknown variables that we don't know about or aware of with mmjoy or promicro. my current wiring pin setup. Encoder 1 Middle pin B3 2 outer pins D0,D4 2 Push Button pins B3 to E6 Encoder 2 Middle Pin B3 2 outer pins D0,D4 2 Push Button pins B3 to B4

I understand I have been working trying to get the PCB one to work I think the stand alone are the ones to use. So to your question about the how they light up they should light individually. I currently have been trying to attach my stand alone encoders and having same issue. Oh for got to tell you only program the encoders in the first 12 buttons. You can change there button number but encoders only work in the first 12. What I have programed B3, B2 for BR D0, D4, C6, D7, E6, B4 for BC I could not get it to work. Until I took this apart had it working.But currently I just got this to work The problem I think was I Used B3 and B2 but was not using the pin B2 at all nothing plugged into it. 1 hour of scratching my head I finally just knocked it down to just pin B3 and the same 6 BC above and bam the encoder and push buttons work. Maybe try 2 encoders first this set up! I think having two or more BR when not in use was the problem. Maybe try this setup and see my mmjoy pic! also pay attention to the timer. I placed them at 60ms cause when I built this radio panel that was sufficient to turn the A10 radio freq numbers one digit. Oh and have you been using the VKB button tester! Its the button below it reads the encoders.

Ok I see np. Your Pin out looks great EDIT-Ok so I wired one encoder up reflashed promicro. I get it to work SW fires but when I twist the encoder both direction it fires the switch too. Is this what you were talking about? I m think it you might be right to cut the trace or snip the one leg off the in side of the sw and hard wire off PCB. So my previous setup all the encoder sw were wired in to a shift register so I didn't have to try to incorporate them in the matrix. Gonna try one more thing roll back to previous stable version of MMjoy. EDIT-EDIT-Ok another try with the previous version of MMjoy and in twisting the encoder it ghosts the sw button. I believe its the resistors is the problem it should be diodes it probably would not ghost then. Interesting.

Before you cut the the traces can you tell me what BR and BC assignment and how you defined the button you set in mmjoy? when I posted the pic of mmjoy I circle everything that sets the encoder up as reference. But because you have a sw involved you have a different setup per the last wiring diagram. Also later today I will set a couple of encoders up with this setup.

Sokol1 is correct, I didn't realize when I bought these my self that they shared the one pin. All though I believe you should be able to add the SW in to the matrix. maybe wire like this. Sorry for all the crude drawings

So no you can start with one BR and daisy chain that with 3 encoders then all outputs would be individual to the BC. And common ground is ok. here a 3 encoder setup. But as soon as you add another BR to for another 3 encoders and 6 more outputs to the BC pins then you add diode to the outputs!