TripRodriguez

I have Gigabyte GTX1080 G1 Gaming and that TI makes me want, but I think I'd get more out of a CPU/mobo/RAM upgrade. Currently running 4790K @4.4Ghz . I'm content with DCS 2.0 performance but 1.5 has been pretty bad. All VR of course, I wouldn't even think of playing DCS on a monitor! Trip

@xray20 Any progress on this? I too am working on a Gazelle pit, also for VR =)

Ok tested with the digital stick and found it very unsatisfactory so iĺl definitely be using the analog stick gimbal.

I have about a 4" extension on my Warthog, big spring removed, all four small springs moved to above the plate and myself and all my guest pilots have found it to be quite good. I think it's a lot more challenging to fly fighting that spring than like this. Give it a try, it only takes a few minutes to "undo" it also =).

@Slimheli Thank you again for a great post! That is extremely helpful. @tribundf The answer to your question comes in several parts! The current model microhelis cyclic lacks force trim, but force trim is coming soon as an option and will be available as a kit to upgrade existing microhelis cyclics. The non FTR microhelis cyclic has the Y-axis pivot point higher than the X-axis pivot point which is the way many if not all real helicopters are. The motion of the stick features hydraulic damping. There are springs which you can remove if you prefer, or if not I believe you can adjust them and the tension is probably pretty light in general. Here is the gimbal drawing: I don't have the drawing of the force trim module available on this computer but I will likely go find it and add it to this post late tonight if Yogi doesn't post it first. It's over on Facebook which I will not visit on my gaming machine. YUCK POISON! Also as a temporary solution you can do the spring mod to your Warthog, that's what I'm flying with as well until my proper cyclic arrives. All you do is remove the huge main spring, and move the four small springs from above the moving plate to below. There are videos on youtube etc., it's super quick and easy. This will give you almost no centering force with an extension. If I set my stick to near perfect center it will stay, but bump it just a little bit and it will fall over. I hope this helps, Trip

I'm glad I'm not the only one who can't get embedded videos to work on this forum! Hopefully that tip will help me make it work next time @Sokol1_br

I had some kind of issues with my computer the last couple days and today I couldn't even launch DCS so I had to reinstall windows. In the meantime, I found I had a half decent feeling plastic joystick gimbal that is fairly compact so I might just use analog to make sure I have no regrets later. I think I might still wait until I can do at least a quick test of the digital stick before I commit though. More opinions still welcome!

I agree that it would be no problem to go without the ability to reset to a predefined "center" FTR position. It would be nice, but not terribly important.

Looks like one yes and one no so far! Please keep opinions coming, I will try to test both options myself as soon as possible and post my own findings as well.

I agree that if we set the slider to max at peak in every aircraft we should get 100% of the force the stick is capable of generating. My custom MSFFB2 generates roughly 4x the force of a stock one, and still I want more! The wwii birds I know for sure had in reality MUCH higher stick force requirements than a FFB stick can generate. I imagine the same is true with some other aircraft as well. Give us access to max FFB via settings for those of us that want it.

Hey guys. I'm building out my gazelle controls but my lack of hands on time in the commander seat leaves me with a question. I'm building a sort of replica of the camera pod aiming control stick box. The controller I have that I want to use for the commanders camera control stick is digital switch based instead of variable analog. I can do a potentiometer based stick but it will be more of a pain and not have as high end a feel to it. So do you think having analog control of the camera pod is worth extra effort? This is a dedicated mini stick that will only be used for this purpose. PS- Some are bound to wonder why. I'm trying to use what I have on hand to stretch the budget. I have a very slick feeling digital on/off type arcade cabinet stick that will fit nicely. For the analog option the proximity of the rotary, potentiometer etc. cause an issue and also I'd be using a recycled low end plastic gimbal and potentiometers. Thanks for any input, Trip

I have to check out this ui controls thing. Despite an hour trying a few weeks back I had opposite problem of OP. I want to bind a joystick button but no matter what only num5 worked. I believe I never found these non aircraft specific ui settings. I'll report back if I still can't figure it out.

@slimheli Thanks for your excellent description of real helicopter behavior! I'd more or less gotten all of this from various sources but I think you are the first to give a fairly complete and comprehensive explanation/description in a single post. As you may or may not be aware Yogi is working on a Force Trim unit that should be a reasonably realistic simulation of the behavior you describe. Many of us are very excited to hear a price and timeline for getting it! I have a couple questions for you right off, and might come back at you later if something else comes to mind. What does the stick feel like when the Force Trim Release is held? Hydraulic damping type feeling? How much "resistance" is there to moving the stick? I know this is very subjective but perhaps describe it in terms of easily overcome with one finger, moderate pressure with two fingers, something like that. What about pilots who prefer to fly without Force Trim? I've heard at least two real helicopter pilots mention this. Is it an option in most/all birds with Force Trim or is doing it problematic or impossible in some? What does the stick feel like, as above? Always hugely helpful to get the input of experienced real pilots! I came super close to going to helicopter school 16 years ago, sadly it fell through on me =(. Super jealous of your career! Trip PS- We are aware of force trim , the talk about a center was relative to resetting the Force Trim to a default "center" position rather than where it was last set, perhaps via a button press or when a cold start is performed. To my knowledge this does not exist in real helicopter force trim setups, is that correct? For our Sims often we are sitting down to controls that were last used not in landing and shutdown but crashing and burning! For this reason I think this is a feature we should have regardless of realism.

@a10c-wolf What you might need is to hook up with a hobbyist not terribly far from you willing to build you a rig. You might even be able to just obtain some plans and take them to a small welding shop? Komodo seems to be out of business. Their facebook site was taken down and they have not been reachable for months. My controller review for microhelis.de cyclic should be soon, near as I can tell mine is still swimming across the Atlantic.

Woot! Awesome, thanks Yogi! It looks fantastic. =D

Wow! Very nice Yogi! I can't wait to see my Cyclic! You don't have any pictures of that by any chance do you Yogi? I should have thought to ask you to take pics! My heli cockpit is coming along, though slowly. It doesn't look like much yet (all unpainted MDF etc.) but it's starting to get to where you can see it taking shape. =D

Me too! I think my cyclic is most likely making it's way across the Atlantic right now based on tracking.

Have you tried it in DCS 2.0?

Interesting, I'd have assumed ASW could only be a good thing. I will try toggling it off, as I had not tried that previously.

Yeah I tried dropping everything to absolute lowest settings even. It was still terrible. How can I fully default EVERYTHING settings wise so I can start from scratch without worry that some hidden/rogue setting is causing the problem?

@NeilWillis Just load up the first quick mission for the Gazelle, I think it's static tanks maybe? I tested with the first and second with nearly the same results. I start off at 45fps, within ~1 minute of takeoff my frame rate drops off to under 30 and more or less stays there unless I'm looking out over the sea. Even with everything set to absolute lowest settings and no supersample this happens. Very strange. For comparison in Nevada with fairly high settings I start off at 90 fps and then drop to 45, then hold almost rock steady at 45fps thereafter. As you said though, likely this isn't worth putting too much effort into with 2.5 hopefully coming soon. Hopefully.

I'll have to test some other modules (I have P51D and A10C) when I get a chance. My computer is pretty beastly so there's no way I'm going to have any frame rate issues on a normal monitor!

Thanks @NeilWillis I was mostly wanting to know if others were having the same issue with this specific combo or if it was just me so I would know whether to spend more time trying to figure out why it's happening to me or not. Rogue setting as you say. Do you have a frame rate monitor running so you know what the frame rate actually is or are you going by feel? With reprojection or whatever it is, it can be really easy to think your frame rate is fine when it's actually fairly low. I use GeForce shadowplay type features for a frame rate monitor.

What you are really looking for is this thread: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=180204 Vive has the same resolution as Rift. Most of us feel that after you use it for a while you won't even notice the resolution, you just learn to ignore it. I would sell my soul to the devil before I'd go back to flying on even a 4K flat screen from VR.

Well I can confirm two things: 1- Gazelle frame rate is fine in Nevada/2.0, but horrendous on Caucasus/1.5 2- Huey frame rate is fine in Caucasus/1.5 Hopefully it's something already on the devs radar if it's not just limited to the Gazelle.