Scott-S6

It's less than a trackir and clip pro.

Because you failed to make it clear which part you were disagreeing with so I responded to both.

They can actually push it until it overheats, which it inevitably will, and report how much it takes to do that. Trying to claim that it will not / can not over heat is ridiculous. Saying that it hasn't overheated under light usage is a pointless response to questions about heat capacity and dissipation. It's like when people who've owned something for an hour and haven't taken it apart tell you how good the build quality is - they have no idea.

Seems pretty obvious. Overheating is a known issue with FFB bases. So if reviewers aren't taking about it they're either insufficiently knowledgeable to be reviewing them or they're being told not to talk about it in order to continue to receive early access (and if you think that doesn't happen then you're delusional). As for people that have bought it saying the issue somehow miraculously does not exist at all - clearly the first category. It's not possible that it cannot overheat without substantial heat dissipation and the cool case suggests the opposite.

Don't be ridiculous, someone that has a unit could determine how long it can run without overheating very easily, all they have to do is actually use it. Since this is such a well known issue with all FFB bases it's curious that none of the reviewers have talked about this. Either they're clueless or it's a problem and they've been told not to mention it if they want to keep getting their free stuff.

It doesn't need CNC, this is an easy manual mill project. PCBway do CNC and sheet metal work now. Just send them your CAD and a note to get a quote back.

So adjust the design for 3D printing (it'll need a bunch of extra material adding to be rigid enough) or for machining and send it away. Lots of places will do that for you. I'd just make it from billet, personally.

So use countersunk fasteners into threaded holes. Or make it from a flat plate and put a spacer between plate and chair. There are so many ways to do this with simple tools.

There is. With a z-axis built in. It's already on the site. But you could just use any TM/virpil/etc compatible extension.

Why not make it from three pieces? Small plate, large plate and a piece of bar. Screw them together. Easy to fab with simple tools, much stronger than 3D printed.

That's not how it works... Swap the wires on a resistor and nothing changes. You'd need to replace the pot with another that has the range inverted. If it's a steam game you can create a controller profile with an inverted axis.

Interesting, thank you.

Does it trim correctly in helicopters? That would be enough to get me interested.

Other way around, they make an adapter part for their bases that accepts TM compatible grips. This is something that Moza need to improve. Their MH16 stick says "It effortlessly fits with most compatible bases" so it's compatible with compatible bases except when it's not. Fantastic info.

I'm going more off their website, the video didn't provide any information that wasn't already provided there. The lack of base compatibility info is shocking. Will it work on a TM? I'm guessing yes but not the addon module. What about other bases that need to know what grip you have fitted? It's not hard to test, there aren't that many. I'll test it on TM, VPC and RS.

I like the forward rake built in, the better materials, that they've kept the switch functions correct rather than forcing extra functions in that would require ergonomic changes to be effective, the adjustable hand rest. I dislike the site not stating clearly base compatibility. Ordered one and it'll go on my realsim force sensing base so we'll see how well made it is pretty quickly (it only takes a few hours for TM grips to become wobbly)

4way latching switch. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLrOEg8

That is probably physical/electrical. You should probably start by opening a support ticket. What's your ability to diagnose electrical issues? Do you have a simple multimeter?

This forum has zero connection to CH - you're not going to be in contact with them here and frankly very odd that you'd try versus contacting them directly. Also odd that you're looking to review hardware that hasn't changed in many years for your first review of flight controls. Why wouldn't you pick something new? I'm also not sure how you're going to be able to offer any kind of meaningful review given the apparent lack of experience in this area, nevermind how you're going to offer some insight that hasn't been offered by someone else in the past years that these devices have been available. I also note that the site you claim is yours is one of those that just regurgitates press releases. I don't see any non-stock photos on any of the "reviews". Got to assume that this is just the weakest scam I've seen in quite a while...

If there's no adapter then modify the mount for the base - angle the grip and base forward. That's much easier to do.

That's fair but you said "materials" rather than "components".

I got it for max versatility but the alpha would be a close second. Increasing the glass mix by 10% would absolutely not double the price. I think they are just being overly cautious about mould life.

OP wants to have all audio go to his headset and all audio to go to the buttkicker. There is no combination of options you can select to do that.

I do find it a bit annoying that they don't function without the app though. For what they cost they ought to be smart enough to have a config pushed to them and then operate autonomously (like virpil or realsimulator controls do).

We're definitely on the same page there - physical controls, no keyboard and no clicking the virtual cockpit. In my pic above you can (just) see 3x streamdeck XLs. Between that and all of the physical switches/buttons in my pit I can run everthing and rapidly switch between aircraft. This is what my Viper profile looks like.