debolestis

There are tabs holding the wires on connector. Use something like tiny flat head screwdriver to lift the tabs a pull the wire gently and it will go out. Make a photo of connector before you start, I always forget wire order.

I use 0,4 because of threads and similar finer things. I used 0,6 for a while and it is super fast, especially on draft setting. This Prusament galaxy black has sparkling bits in it, it is just for effect but somehow printing lines seem to be less visible and I like it. PLA is probably the strongest material, only drawback is stability on higher temperatures. But something like joystick never goes in hi-temperature regime. I like THIS you tube Chanel, there are many interesting material testing videos. is testing of usual 3D printing materials and PLA seems to be winner.

I was thinking the same. I want that throttle has possibility of raising grips, like in Warthog, I'll think of something.

Thank you Sokol, I saw this before, that is nice grip. Is there something on throttle mechanics?

I actualy printed on 20% giroid infill, 4 perimeters, and 0,3 mm layer hight (draft option) on 0.4 mm nozzle. I used 100% before but it is really not necessary and takes so much more time. I only printed cams on 100%. Enclosure was on 10%. Dark grey material is Prusamet Galaxy black PLA.

Thank you! Now I am planing to print new throttle. Did anybody see something about that on forums?

I was working on new CAM gimbal lately, I had some free time. I wanted to see if my Prusa MK3s printer is capable of printing parts that are strong enough. After month of testing I must say that I am satisfied, still works like on first day, nothing is broken. I used mostly standard M4, M5 and M6 screws and bolts, washers, 12 ball bearings, two springs and some bras threaded inserts. Except screws and bolts I bough everything on eBay. Sensors are GVL 224. I have bought two 5011 as well but I still need to test them. I have two rubber boots from FLCS and F22 that were donated to me, they are hard to find and I couldn't find proper replacement for them. They help a lot with dampening. Since it is 3D printed I made it a bit bigger, I doesn't mind but maybe I'll make enclosure smaller in the future. It will need some minor modifications but I think it is mostly finished. I must say that I didn't invent anything here, this is basically Baur BRD / WarBRD gimbal. I am sorry for bad image quality.

I have uploaded new model. It was also made by request. It is triple detent for Viggen. It can be found HERE.

Mine have worked fine until I sold it 2 months ago. Only issue that I had was broken spring and that was easy fix. Keep on mind that this gimbal is light in the center and some dead zone is needed. Now I am trying to print complete gimbal with CAM mechanism. Version 1 was good, but it needs some improvements.

OK, I am busy at the moment, I can make this in march. Please remind me if I forget.

Hi! I wouldn't recommend that, that gimbal mechanism is very light at the center, and wasn't really made for extensions.

But if you want to use potentiometers why do you need MCP3208? You can connect them directly, a simpler pcb would be good for that. Something like this one:

Hi, it can be done it is not a problem. Which sensor do you want to use with this 3208?

That one works, I'll change the status.

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Yes, everything that you can measure.

No problem.

I haven't had Warthog slew mods so far. Are you sure this is the right thread?

I don't have Warthog base. Can you measure the pin?

I also managed to find T-50 grip. I really like that it is made of plastic, which seems to be well manufactured and light. I don't like the hats, and maybe lever has too much of a travel if it is used only as a switch. I can maybe add more switches, like 5way Alps. I use Mmjoy2 controller so I can do that.

Can you measure original then?

I am sorry, but I just have no time for that right now. Sorry

I apologize, I just forgot. Here are dimensions that you had measured: Height - 46.65 mm Wide Diameter - 18.92 mm Narrow Diameter - 16.00 mm Attach holes - 3.80 mm What I have: Height - 46.5 mm Wide Diameter - 19.00 mm Narrow Diameter - 16.00 mm Attach holes - 4.00 mm Wide diameter and height doesn't matter. Attach holes. You measured 3.80 mm, and I have 4.00 mm. Maybe that is the problem, but I don't think so. Holes on Shapeways' prints are usually a bit narrower from uploaded 3D model. Can you also measure printed part that you have? Maybe there is a problem.

Looks like standard thumbstick. It should work.

Check PM