debolestis

Phost a few photos please. I am glad that it works.

Black Mamba used same but fixed grip. Maybe you know somebody who has it? It is difficult to see how to do it from photos. I can make something from your drawings, but I don't know how that will work.

Cobra grip sits on top of a shaft and it is not fixed. How will you fix it in place? Do you want to glue it? Do you have measurements and photos of Cobra shaft?

Diameter is 16mm and length is 26,5mm. But this is for fixed grip. Cobra has yaw axis as well, it is not fixed. Do you want it to be fixed on TM base? If you can porvide measurements, I can draw whatever you want.

As Sergey said it cannot be like TM grips with Leo Bodnar's board. I recommend using mmjoy2 with Leonardo pro micro. If you want replaceable grips you have to use shift register inside grip. Hawk grip is like Talon. You can remove even china hat, it looks glued but it is not. Use small diameter drill from below and it will fall off.

I can make an extension, also curved but if it is 10-15cm long it will not be cheap.

Looks like this airbus part is again not correctly made. Looks like I have made it with wrong values in mind. I will remove permanently from my shop, I simply cannot test it myself, I don't have Airbus sim. I am so sorry that some people ordered it and it will not work well. Most of you will probably be able to get a refund or exchange it for something else.

I made a few other models. Warthog 5 way switch shaft. It is untested, but I think it will work. Then I have CH to Warthog tailpiece Same thing as above but with 10mm offset. I don't know if anybody will ever buy it, it was not easiest mod. I used shift register board from TM FLCS, and I heavily modded CH switch PCB. Here are a few photos.

Old version didn't work. Then I made a new version with 3 detents: 56, 77 and 100%. I don't know if it will work, it was ordered by somebody, we'll probably know soon.

Here is the PCB. There are 3 connectors at the botom. Two 2pin connectors are for pinkie and Auto Acquisition Switch. Jaust solder wires on switches and that is it. Also there is 5pin connector you have to connect it to mini din connector. You can see written on PCB: VCC, C/S, CLK, OUT and GND. VCC top pin and GND is bottom pin. Use this diagram for soldering. Latch is C/S, data is OUT, VDD is VCC, clock is CLK. This works when you look at the connector from bellow. When you solder you solder from above, so be careful, then everything is mirrored. This is how it should look like.

Yes that is correct size.

Thabk you for corrections Okona, I removed metal part from my store, it is too expensive to experiment with.

You cannot fix it with Dremel but you can TAP threads with a tool. I found cheaper tap tool on eBay. It will be easy I think, maybe there is a locksmith in your area who can do this. You can see how to tap holes in . It is fixable but you need proper tools. Plastic versions are tested and they work, I tested both versions myself on Cougar and Warthog. Can you post a photo of your part?

I had a few requests lately and I am so sorry that it takes this long. I started university again and I have important exam this week. After that I'll have more time to finish them all. Thank you for your patience!

Hi, sorry for that, but this is the reason why part is still untested. I removed metal nut from my store. I don't have time now to work on another version of it. You cannot fix it with Dremel please don't do that. You need M32x2 tap to fix this problem. Like on this eBay sale. But that is expensive part, maybe you can find a metal worker near by who can do this for you. It will not be a big problem because only a a little metal must be removed. I am afraid that is the only way. - Part is untested because of this reason, I always try to get confirmation for all materials. Metal parts have a bit different manufacture process, this happened because of that, plastic printing is more precise. I just cannot test all designs in all materials, especially not metals, metal is very expensive. - You can ask anything you want there is no problem with that.

Yes, it is tested it will work. I added 3 resistors you can see them on two chips. New version doesn't have that and just looks nicer. That is it.

Both versions are functionaly the same, there is no difference when you instal them. I have 5 more PCBs left. Price is 25$. Older version was cheaper so no discount.

Great, I am happy that it works.

Looks like M6 nut bellow magnet is not tightened. Please try that.

The little switch works, same as S3 on Warthog. There is no way that CMS switch will fit, it is too large, one possible option is Alps 5way switch. Then we have another problem, there are 13 switches at the moment. I used 2 shift register chips on this PCB, so max number of switches is 16. For CMS switch I need 4 more switch possitions. Maybe one day I'll make another version, but at the moment I have no time for that.

Price?

Probably you are right but x36,45 and 52 are very similar.

PCB is same as before, just minor errors corrected. I forgot 3 resistors on previous version.

I stared to experiment with new tail piece. X36 to Warthog/Cougar. I think that X45 could also be used with it but I am not 100% sure. Here is version 1. And here it is installed. Why I did this? I kind of like this grip, maybe it will be useful in the future. It also looks a lot like flight stick from elite dangerous. I still need to design new PCB for it.

I ordered no detents warthog throttle part. It worked as expected. There are no detents from 0 to 100%. It was very easy to install, I only needed to unscrew 2 screws.