debolestis

It is not a hack. I cannot print tailpieces but most of other stuff I can.

I don't have experience with fssb base. One guy had problems with wobbling with my tailpieces with fssb. I didn't have much more feedback. Plastic is much cheaper, I'd try that. You can screw connector to plastic tailpiece as well.

You don't have to use tap tool but when you unplug the grip you have to be extra careful and unplug the connector with your fingers. Shapeways ships from US and Europe depending on your location.

I am still here. I am realy busy in real life latelly, but if you need something send me a PM. I sometimes don't find time to respond, and then I forget that I had received a PM. In that case please send me a PM again. I can print stuff myself or you can order from my shapeways store.

I had request to print F-18C Select to Jettison Rotary Knob, I had only basic measurements, It was mostly eyeballed but I think that it looks good. It will not be sold on my Shapeways store, but I will print it myself. Please contact me if you need one. Also contact me if you have any other requests for 3D printing. For this I created Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/debolestis Please like and subscribe, I'll produce more stuff like this in the future. Knob should be used with switch like this one:

I added 2 more models to my store. CH to Warthog tailpiece/adapter. It is tilted 13 degrees to forward and offset 15 degrees to the left. Second part is throttle part for Harrier. It has detent only for right grip but not on left grip.

I can mke the tailpiece. I'll upload put it in my stare in next few days. I cannot make a slot for muni din connector.

I apologize that I didn't reply sooner, but I am on vacation and a wasn't near computer. - I am happy with the gimbal, plastic proved to be durable. Once I broke a spring, maybe I should have grease them a little for durability. I recommend using stainless screws, but that I have mentioned in first post. - It is and upgrade for sure. It is a bit light in the center so I added a little dead zone - It is compatible with original electronics if you use GVL 224 sensors and magnets. If you buy them from him mention to set them for +/- 20 degrees. - I have springs, price is 10 Euros per set of 4. They are made of stainless steel. Just send me a message if you have any questions.

OK. I'll try to make something

Unfortunately I don't have anything for warthog slew control. What do you have in mind?

You have to bend ground connector a bit. I know it is a problem but this way there is thicker wall and stronger part.

You need to contact GVL224. He can provide sensors and magnets. Tell him to set them up for +/- 20 degrees. You'll also need 4 springs. I have them, send me a PM if you are interested. For now gimbals proved to be reliable. I didn't have any issues so far.

You can buy it HERE. There is no version with mounting bracket.

Hi, I think it can be done but I'd make wall it twice as thick and I'd maybe add a bar that would make it even more stronger.

I am sorry that it doesn't work. I planned to redraw that thing anyway. I'll do it soon. I have print two on my printer, and look and quality is great. Connector is 5 pin mini DIN male connector. It can be bought HERE but without mounting bracket.

I have bought Prusa I3 Mk3 printer and is in operation. I can print most of the parts from my Shapeways store cheaper,and my postage prices are much cheaper from Shapeways, at most 3$. I am now trying to print locking collars since they are most complicated to print. At the moment I have only grey, black and white filament. Send me a message if you are interested.

OK, thank you Sokol, I have SimmRGE controler, I'll try it out.

I'd like to use original sensor, How does external ADC work? Any posts on that?

I bought faulty Warthog throttle some time ago. I decided to mod it with Mmjoy2. Since I have Honeywell toggles and Otto push buttons I decided to use them as well. Warthog throttle is insanely difficult to disassembly, in my opinion it is made such so that nobody can repair it. I would have don it differently. Biggest problem to remove were toggles on the base, I just couldn't unscrew the screw that were holding them. TM probably used special tool for that, socket wrench was too wide to fit. Tubular box spanner was also too wide. I have to break PCBs and break switches in the end. This is the end result I managed to save LED pcbs I'll manage to do something with switches but problem at the moment is throttle sensor. It is MLX900316 In data sheet it is mentioned that analog operation is possible. I have no idea how to connect them to Mmjoy2. Maybe I can make PCB with different sensor. PCB is very small 14,3x9,3mm. Any ideas are welcome.

They are the same in the afterburner part but there is small detent at 0% throttle on first one. That was made by request.

I added two more parts to my store. Warthog throttle part -Airbus It is to be used with FSLabs A320 addon, it adds detents at aproximately 20, 30, 70 and 85 percent. This one is similar to my afterburner detent part. There is afterburner detent and also detent at 0% throttle. HERE Both parts were requested and both are it test phase. They should work but I am not 100% sure. Also I ordered Prusa I3 Mk3 3D printer, so soon I'll be able to test all of my prototypes and also sell my parts, cheaper than Shapeways and more importantly, I'll be able to ship parts in envelopes at low prices all over the world. I know there have been some issues in some countries with customs or expensive shipping.

Follow links in post #1. They'll take you to Shapeways, it is printing service, they do the printing I design stuff.

3D print

Hi. I still need to check, I have found this wiring diagram: Both pots (sensors) are shown on the bottom and they have orange, red and brown wires. RED wires are signal wires. now we have to identify brown and orange. According to wiring inside grip, brown is +5V but it doesn't have to be the case. Do you have multi-meter, you can measure it in a few seconds. You need to check which one of the pins (1 or 3) is connected directly to the ground. Ground is on outside of male USB connector. I have this drawing from GVL224 sensor. there are 3 connector pins on the left. Pins are out, - and +. - is ground, + is +5V and out is for signal. You can probably use wires from Cougar pot, since they have instaled connectors. solder the wires to the sensor. Last step is magnet calibration. Use Diview or any other calibration software and rotate the magnet until you see that axis is in center. If axis is inverted you can flip the magnet and recalibrate. Let me know if you have problems. Please be extra careful with +5V and ground wires, you shouldn't mess this up, I don't know what will happen in case of reverse polarity.

Great photos, thank your for your feedback!