debolestis

Sorry that you had to wait but I made extended version of this adapter, it is 12 cm in total length. I don't know how stiff/rigid it will be, I haven't tested it yet, but my experience tells me that it will be stiff. You'll have to test it yourself. There has been some changes on Shapeways site, now sections in the store are supported. I organized everything and now it is much easier to navigate through the store. Save

No need to measure, I'll have Warthog throttle probably this week, and then I'll measure everything myself and make many different throttle mods.

Hi, I am away until next week. Good news is that this week I'll get faulty Warthog throttle, so after that many new mods will be possible.

I probably will not add aditional cooling, let's see how long it will last.

I agree but I made mod that acts as extension, so I recoment resistor mod even if plastic grip is used.

Here's an update for my FFB2 mod. I did same resistor mod like ON THIS THREAD. This is a photo from that thread, I am not the author. There are 4 pairs of 1 Ohm resistors in paralel on this PCB, so each pair is equivalent of 0,5 ohms. I soldered 8 more resistors on top of each already on PCB. It doubled the force effect. It very nice mod and now stick has enough power to handle Warthog grip. Before Warthog was falling on its nose, now it is almost cenered. Warthog grip is not perfectly centered but it it close enough, it can probably be calibrated. I could add one more resistor on top of each of 4 resistor "quads". It could probably increase power 20% but it is a risk and I am not sure if it is worth it. This mod doubled power allready. Here is Diview screenshot: With plastic grips both axis are on 50%. In next few days I'll finish the rest of the electronics, I'll post the results.

I don't know, I'll upload it on tuesday.

Free shipping on all orders over 25$ ends tomorrow.

I'll think of something.

It is not a problem, I'll try but I cannot be 100% sure that it will work straight away. I am not 100% sure on dimensions. Are you willing to risk with prototypes?

Can you post a photo please, I don't want to register on that site.

Of course, just say what you need.

Grub Screws will self tap, you need M3x5. I can make CH version but I need measurmets of CH shaft. I would recomend using FLCS or F22 grips, they are plastic Cougars.

Yes, locking nut is compatible with mine and TM tailpieces. I cannot make nut like you suggest, because of geometry.

I have one more new print!!! It is an adapter for Microsoft Force Feedback 2 joystick. I've got this joystick as a gift from a member of SimHQ forums. Thank you Ian!!! Here is FFB2 without a grip. I wanted to make an adapter that goes on FFB2 shaft so that it can be used with TM grips. I made two versions V1 and V2. V1 can be used with FLCS, F22, Cougar and Warthog. It mounts permanently on FFB2 base. I didn't print it, because I don't need it now. I printed V2 version. It acts as "regular" TM base on FFB2. Here are photos of printed part: There are 8 holes on adapter. I used M3 grub screws to secure the adapter. But any M3 screw can be used. Installed on base: It fits fine and can be secured firmly with screws. It is also possible to rotate it to the left if stick is center mounted. I tested it with warthog grip, but it is too heavy. It comes back to center if stick is pulled backwards but not if pushed up front. I know there are mods that double power to the motors and I'll test them in next few days. Another option is to use FLCS grip with Warthog electronics. Then I tested it with plastic B8 X-fighter grip and it worked very well. In next few days I'll finish electronics and of course I'll post everything.

New print!!! This is F-16 style locking nut, printed in new material gray and polished. It is a bit darker than I expected but looks nice. Finally there is real grey color, for now in test phase. I hope it will be released soon. The collar looks very nice, knurled parts are also very well printed, much better then I expected. Threads are also very well printed. Another view of knurled part. I don't have Warthog base but nut fits on Cougar, so Warthog should be OK. I have this part of Cougar base. It also fits on my 3D printed gimbal. I didn't photographed replacement procedure but it was easy. Just be careful when putting everything back together. There are many tiny wires inside Warthog grip. Here it is mounted on my 3D printed gimbal.

I made this print: It is cover for D-sub DE-9 connector. I print it in new material that is in test phase, black polished. It has more smooth look, not like acrylate but it is OK. I hope that it will be soon released for everybody, at the moment I can only print my own designs with this material. This is back side with slot for M3 nuts. Nuts installed: And mounted: I know nobody will print this, but that opening was annoying, and now I feel good.

Thank you Sokol! You always find most valuables posts.

Yes, I understand good luck with that.

Just replace screws with stainless steel screws and problem solved. You can do it yourself.

Free shipping on Shapeways on all orders over 25$ until 24th September.

Send a message to GVL224 and he'll make whatever you want.

I mentioned before that I had bought 4 Otto P1-1 switches. I wanted to replace S1, S2, S3 and S4 switches. Finally I had some time to do it. It is not difficult mod, it took me about an hour. On the right you can see Otto P1 switch, it looks similar but there are a few differences. Area bellow the actuator is taller and Otto switch is a bit narrower. I solved that problem with electrical tape. I just wrapped 5-6 cm around the each switch. If switch couldn't fit I removed 5-10mm of tape and tried again until fit was just right. I wrapped the tape 0,5mm bellow the edge because tape can slip in tight fits. Here is S3 installed: Then I repeated same process for S4 and then unplugged S2 switch. Here is its header on PCB. Here is S2 installed. You can also see how S1 fits perfectly. Then I put everything back together again. Here are some photos of finished grip: The result is amazing. Warthog is nice grip but its push button switches were just crap. I never had proper tactile feel, now it is completely different. It feels like real grip now. I also had to adjust pinkie lever by turning grub screw bellow. Lever is the best, there is constant force while it is moved and in the end loud click with great tactile feel. There are actually two versions of this switch: one with 4lbs of force and one with 2.5 lbs force. I have all 4lbs, maybe lower force would be better for S1-S3 it depends on personal preference, but for S4 4 lbs is awesome. I strongly recommend this mod to everybody. This switches are expensive but from time to time they can be found cheap on eBay, especially for somebody in US. Postage to Europe is sometimes more expensive than switches. After one minute on eBay I found this one.

If somebody wants something modified on this part please let me know and draw your request on image above. It doesn't have to look pretty. Same thing if you want it to have more detents or whatever. Keep in mind that I don't have Warthog throttle so I need some help with this.

Yes, buy two leonardos 5V, cables and if you have basic soldering skils you can try this shield that I have made, you can buy it on OSHpark. Shield will meake things simpler and it will look nicer. Later you can change pots with sensors but if you are begginer leave it for later.