sc_neo

haha ok. I plan to upgrade my T.16000m to be fully equal to a Warthog button/head wise by canabalizing those 12 bottom buttons and adding a bunch of 4 way switches and buttons at the joystick top. My plan is to make one of the 12 buttons a modifier key which is wired to all remaining 11 buttons (with a resistor in one direction) to end up with 22 buttons in addition to what the t.16000 has at your finger tips already. When i read about that mmjoy-arduino business, i just hat a wet dream of buying one arduino board and having 128 buttons including 8axis to play with...hooking up all buttons i liked to the T.16000 without tinkering with its electronics and in the process, maybe building a helo collective later. But as you guys suggest, you end up with just enough to setup one device properly. Still, very interesting, especially once i think of building a collective. Hrm, i just have to read a bit more to make a could call on whether to follow through with my original plan of using the 12 bottom buttons of the T.16000 or leave that as it is, and add all the stuff physically on the joystick but wire it seperately with mmjoy. It'll be cheaper for sure. Which is more practical you think?

I have only glanced over this thread but have a short question concerning max number of buttons and axis one can implement. So the mmjoy software is able to handle 128 buttons, but the real limitation seems to be the solder points on the hardware boards, right? So what is the current max number of buttons/switches/axis one can build into a single windows recognized mmjoy device?

I have the t.16000 and its great, especially for the price. But, after some month mine developed a bit of centreplay as well. I opend it up and added a small plastic ring cut from a yohgurt cup to push the gimbal upwards so it would make tight contact with its casing in the base ceiling again. There remains just the tiniest wiggle in the vertical axis that you really have to 'hunt for' to even notice. But more importantly, the stick is dead on now. Nor deadzone needed at all. One thing thats nice about it: the Thrustmaseter Target software has a tab called 'Device Analyzer' which lets you look at all axis, buttons, switches and gives you a numeric readout for each position you put it in. So mine now returns to exactly 'zero' or to be exact 8192 of 16383, no matter what. Using it like this for 6 months without issues.

haven't had any MP problems with this HD cockpit so far...

I am really looking forward to this campaign and this will be a sure buy for me. I have started DCS and learning the A-10c last summer with Chuck's guide in the beginning, Bunyaps, Fire's youtube series and now going through the ED A-10c manual one by one. I am doing it all on the NTTR map. NTTR provides for that immersive learning, testing and training backdrop, which in combination with all the training campaigns coming for it (yours and maple flag stuff) makes for a pretty authentic aviation experience. So my plan is as follows: learn as much from the manual and through trial an error as well as all the awesome stuff by the 476th vFG on NTTR. When your campaing hits finanilze/repeat and enhance (and i am sure there will be lots of things in it that i did not pick up on before) everything in one cohesive manner. Then move on the all the training/test campaigns by maple flag when these get released for NTTR....then finally finish it off with the Red Flag campaign. And then i think i might be ready for the 'real campaings' on the Caucasus map... So....take as much time as you feel is necessary to make the authoritative 'learning and training' campaign for the A-10c for years to come. If it takes 9 months or whatever longer than you'd hoped, then so be it. The beauty about dcs is: what you buy is of great quality and you keep it as long as dcs will exist. Not like Battlefield or the like where you throw everything away like every 2 to 3 years. So good luck and patience to both of you. Cheers.

@Harzach ''Originally Posted by Sierra99 STAT OSB NEXT (OSB 1) DOWN ARROW (OSB 19) until THRTL is selected and SLEW is option on right side (OSB-8?) Use UFC or CDU keypad to select new rate...insert into OSB 8. Done from memory...might not be correct...but close.'' ...works as you described above, thx man. But is it possible to adjust tgp slew rate in the tgp cntrl page directly without diverting over to the other mfcd? If not, i guess the quickest way is to quickly switch the mfcds via hostas so one has not to glace on the over side of the front dash each time adjusting the tgp slew rate.

The divert page on the cdu shows that sweet arifieldinfo like TWR freqeuncy, runway heading etc for the 4 closest airfields. Is there a cdz page to look that info up for all the other waypoints or airfields in the mission waypoint database, or do we need to rely on kneeboard charts for that? Additionally i'd like to know: when i control the cdu via the ufc buttons and look at it in the mfcd, how can i switch between page 1 and 2? The cdu has that p1/p2 rocker, can't find something similar up at the ufc though. Would be really handy.

Q: Will the NTTR converted basic and advanced training qualification campaigns be free of charge for owners of the original ED store Caucasus campaigns or will this cost a bit extra?

wow, thanks for that great illustration! Did you just draw that up for me? It's a really straight and simple design, and the idea with the diodes is great. I am a bit busy this week so i won't get onto the case right away. I hope i can ask for advice when i actually start my little upgrade project. Cheers mate.

nice build :) Did you add a second stage to the gun trigger up fron as well? I don't quite understand how i could turn the orginal 4 way HAT which acts as an 8 way HAT into 2 four way HATs? I guess there aint't 8 wires going down but the pcb sends different digital signals for each position. Could you elebarote a bit more on how this '4/8 way HAT' could be modified into 2 seperate 4 way HATs?

@Sokol1_br ..... thx a lot for the help. The stuff at http://uk.farnell.com is pretty much what i am looking for. Making the actual head from a piece of wood or whatever ain't a big problem. Its really weird, the actual 4/5 navigation switch costs less than a pound there...but complete with an actual head on them nothing less than 16$ pops up. Yes, real estate is tight on the T.16000m. Unfortunately the big 3 grey buttons at the top of the stick are not siple push-buttons but seem to press against a cb. The slickest way to do it would be to place the 4/5 way navigation switches at these exact spots (where the 3 big greay buttons sit now) and canabalize their function for the click function of the 4 way switch and run 4 wires from the base buttons upwards to feed the 4 directions. Additionally i'd love to steal 4 inputs from the POV / 8 way head thats already there. I really have a hard time to consistently push the diagonal directions...hence pretty much i use it as a simple 4 way head in the end. The T.16000m has 24 ''clickable'' inputs overall in addtition to its 5 analogue axes. Thats a lot to work with and in its vanilla state, its really underutilized. If you know of a thread/post by some who made such a comprehensive mod to a joystick please let me know. I guess i have to look a bit more into what i can actually comfortably re-use from the T.16000m before ordering something. You pointed me in the right direction to get started, thx a lot.

The T.16000m has a lot of 'unused' buttons on its base and there are a couple of button mods that add a pinky switch or designated 'lase button' by soldering it in parallel to the aforementioned buttons that are most of the time out of reach. I was wondering, would it be possible to add an additional 4 way head to the T.16000m? There's 12 buttons on its housing that i don't really use. I have looked around but did not find any 4 way head buttons to buy. Any good store that sells those come to mind?

Du vielen Dank für die infos und Ratschläge, aber ich glaub ich lasse das und hole mir gegebenenfalls doch die neuen Thrustmaster Pedale. Letztlich sind die CH Pedale doch recht simple, antike Technik was Auflösung und den mechanischen Unterbau angeht. Ich glaub da würde ich mit den Thrustmastern, auch wenns etwas teurer würde, glücklicher werden.

also so in etwa wie das dcs-bios projekt nur eben mit MMJoy als software auf dem Arduino die die analogen Eingaben der Potis verabeitet und an den Rechner schickt? Also von der noch zusätzlich anzuschaffenden hardware wäre es mit Arduino und Usb-Kabel getan?

hrm, da fehlt jetzt nur der controller? Den müsste man nachkaufen und dann mit den potis verlöten und eine usb-Verbindung vom controller legen? Würde nur erstmal kurz die Gesamtkosten dieser Bastelie abschätzen wollen :)

the latest patch 2.0.4 contains a fix ....''Name of airfields in the radio menu corrected''. Does that mean what i hope it means?

So i have had my T.16000m for a bit over a year now and i have a bit of play in the centre prosition, about 1mm in each direction that seems not to be covered by the spring i guess. I only feel the pressure from the spring once i go past that 1mm. I have added a minimal deadzone, so its not a precision problem, but it kinda annoys me and feels a bit weird. Do you experience the same problem and if so, did anyone of you fixed that somehow? Small update on this: i have opend the stick to regrease, cut the red wire to disable the green light and check out why i have this tiny but annoying bit of play/movement around the centre. The 'gimbal' (if you want to call it that :smilewink:) is pressed against the housing top-cover by a round cup which itself has a hole at the bottom through which the wiring and hall effect sensor go. The spring presses against this cup and when the joystick is centered, this cup is supposed to touch against the housing top cover completely flat, without any play or wiggle. With my unit, this was the case, but the actual grey round gimbal (which you can see from the outside top side) had afore mentioned tiny wiggly play when the cup was in its flat cenetered position. For testing purposes i made a very flat, small ring from photo paper and placed that inside the cup. This closes the small gap between the grey gimbal and the cup which almost completely eliminates the centre play. As a permanent solution, i'll probably sand about half a mm off the cup (though one has to somehow free that cup, probably unsoldering the wires for that). And what do you know. Before, it was mostly this annoying feeling that the stick would always rock a bit before i felt the spring providing pressure against my movement. And i actually had to add a small deadzone of 7 in the centre position in target because every now and then it would not centre completely. Both, the wiggly feeling and the dead zone requirement are gone...good bye target for the time being. When i make that little tweak permament i make some fotos and post em here.

hrm, i actually thought he could control the aircraft despite superimposing the pdf. I just gave it a try in borderless mode as you suggested. You cannot control the aircraft of course, but track ir still translates head movements. I guess that why i thought Bunyap had a special trick to be in control of both simultaneously. I guess all the hussle with kneeboard builder would not be necessary if it was somehow possible. Anyway, i think this works quite nice. Autopilot is my new best friend i recon.

thx a lot guys. This gives me more than enough to take a good look at this module. Actually, my brother and i are thinking about getting it. Since they added multicrew in august, this has become a very interesting aircraft.

Hey, i am interested in the Gazelle and would like to read a bit in the Polychop manual for that module before i decide whether to get it or not. I didn't find anything on the forums (Chuck's excellent guide of course). Anyplace to download it?

just for clarity. If i forget to disable my mods before an update to dcs world, all mod files that this update touches are moved to the ingame '_000backup' folders. The easiest/safest way should then be to simply open OvGME and disable and then reanble all mods, which then should be copied over from my root mod folder, right?

OvGME does not use symbolic links to keep the original dcs folder completely untouched, right? Nexus mod manager for instance works with symbolic links and Mod Organizer for the Bethesda games presents mods via symbolic links to the orginal game folder only while Mod Organizer is running. Do i have to disable all mods before i apply ab update for DCS World like we needed to do with JSGME?

@Codawa...na da bin ich ja mal gespannt. Wäre ja klasse wenn endlich mal einer nen metallenen gimbal mod der in die Warthogbasis passt fertig kriegt. Wie ist das eigentlich mit den Sensoren? Klebst du die dann einfach unmodifiziert drinnen fest, muss da softwareseitig was geändernt werden?

Hey, during the F-15c red flag series, you sometimes displayed the mission briefings/charts/maps in your pdf reader directly ingame, apparently being able to look around the cockpit with head tracking and manipulating the pdf with your mouse simultaneously. I think thats really useful (more so than the kneeboard) to learn a new module. Having the entire A-10c manual pop up in the cockpit with the press of a button and jumping to whatever section your are working on, i mean. Would you be so kind to let us know how you managed that magical feat?

noooooooooooooooo,...alright, np. I guess i'll look into a new graphics cards when vega hits in 2017.