punk

Greetings One and All, I do not have much experience with Discord, can anyone explain why they need member phone numbers to join servers? Thanks. Salute, Punk

Hi Pukin' Dog (Sorry, I like naval aviation too much and your avatar fits the name :smilewink:), I have no idea how any of the software fixes work as of yet, but like the esteemed Mr. Solo, I will offer a couple fairly simple mechanical solutions for the missing action. I do like the simplicity of the On-Off-(On) solution, but find those switches higher priced, a little more difficult to obtain, and they do not quite solve the issue when the guarded switch has three functions resulting in this same problem. One option is to use reed or hall effect switches attached under the mounting or face plate with small magnets attached or inset into or under the guards. I have not used this yet, but I have the parts now and will begin experimenting eventually. In theory, they should act something like a refrigerator light switch or a window alarm system. A second option, do as Craig S does using a small pushbutton switch placed at the rear of the switch guard. As the switch guard is flipped into the open position, it pushes down the momentary switch and holds it in place until closed. Here is a link to his project website: http://mysimpit.co.uk/ He addresses the issue around 11:55 in his YouTube video. Hope these give you more options to think over. Best of luck on your build. Salute, Punk

Hi les, I am interested in the CDU fascia and back-plate if they are still available. Salute, Punk

:thumbup: Salute, Punk

Hello Mr. Solo, Forgive me if it is otherwise answered, I have tried using search, but have not the time at present to read the entire thread to see if anyone asked yet. With the original panels you used like TACAN and KY 28 and such, did you tear out all the wiring and start from scratch using the original rotaries, toggles, pots, etc..., or did you replace them with new hardware and wire, just keeping the shells? Thanks. Salute, Punk

I understood your inquiry, I just couldn't find a better photo showing how far out they came. This one is a little better. Salute,

I thought I had a better image, but I guess not. Sorry.

Hi Aries, I know this is not the same photo, but I like it and it may work for you as well. It also shows the full Phoenix load out while going ballistic... It isn't the greatest resolution, but perhaps it might work for a smaller print if you like it. Salute

I have only seen this one that someone reworked. I have this poster myself somewhere in storage I believe.

I think it was a Grumman design, I have looked for replacements using the part number and came up blank. I lucked across some from A-6 parts. Salute, Punk

Read the entire article and you can find it clearly sir.

Hi, If you notice in the real bird, the throttles must be moved to the left at the detents to put the engines in idle at startup and afterburner in flight. Mil power is any setting between idle and afterburner - or wep in older planes. If you hear the term "Buster," you are being directed to proceed at maximum military power, that is as fast as you can go without going into afterburner.

This shows how the throttle setup is.

The only way around those prices I know of is if you come across used panels from various aircraft that use those type of switches in them. I was lucky to come across one that had 6 and a rotary for 40 or 50 dollars a few years back. I was mad about it back then as I was looking for regular switches at the time, but they were a nice find in hindsight. Now I just need to find the box they are hiding in :/ Salute,

Hey Dino, Sent you an email. Salute,

Here is a pretty thorough video covering most aspects of CV Ops for use in DCS. I am not saying they are right or wrong, just that this resource is available. Salute,

iF ANY OF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A LASER CUTTER OR CNC AND WANT VECTOR DRAWINGS OF THE PANELS AND SUCH, i HAVE QUITE A NUMBER DONE USING INKSCAPE OR lASER DRAW SOFTWARE. OOPS, sorry for the CAP locks, just finished working on the Armament panel and a few others for the rear pit. Looking forward to seeing what everyone comes up with that suits their needs. I have a few trials in Sketchup, but I just do not feel like paying for it and am not sure what can be done with those free version files yet. Salute,

Tango Mike Salute,

I know that the button marked #8 on the photo of the RIO Computer Address Panel is not functional ingame, but can anyone read what the legend is? It looks like TUNE OSB or something to me, but I hope someone who has better info, Mk-1 Eyeballs, or display can tell me exactly what it says. Thanks. Salute,

You should using an arduino or similar board and the DCS bios that was put together. I will have to look up the actual name, but you can probably search the forums and find them. Salute, Here is the link: DCS-BIOS Website: http://dcs-bios.a10c.de

Welcome to the sickness... Salute,

If you take the image from the NATOPS and cut it out, you can scale it to the rough dimension because it should have the standard panel width of 5.75 inches wide. Salute,

Here are a few VF-201 birds I have come across: Salute,

Hi Snake, Thanks for your input. I understand what you are saying needs to happen, just unsure how to implement it in this case. I am guessing one of the poles is power, but I do not know which one since there is no electrical schematic on it like some other parts have. I do not even know how much power it takes. 5, 12, 28V? I am clueless right now and boggled by the problem....Did I mention my electronics knowledge is just above none? Salute,

Question of my own; does anyone of you electrically minded folks know how I might go about getting the Rio Ejection Cmd lever to change the indicator on the Landing Gear Panel? I have attached some pics of the parts, but the lever evidently works as on on/off type of lever switch as when you move it back and forth there is a metal bar inside that slides back and forward and there are 4 holes, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. I tried to get a pic, but open and closed look the same because of the flash. Any ideas on how to figure out how to wire something would be appreciated greatly. Salute,