punk

IIRC usually means, "If I recall correctly."

If only I could get hold of all those measurements I wold be the happiest guy ever.

Come on, admit it Cobra, you just like wielding Thor's hammer to make your point :D

I do not think any amount of information will ever change someone's mind when the basis for their position is a logical fallacy. Usually you will only notice an increase in abusive or belittling language. <Salute> Punk

I wonder if your story is related to the article below? I am a bit confused with what you are trying to express, please forgive me for being a bit slow. I do believe that certain ords/load outs and AC weights have G-limits, but they are instituted by doctrine, not a physical feature installed on the airframe. There is a PDF file in the article below that describes the steps they took to develop safety actions for Rudder Hardover Incidents using the flight sim at PAX River to get it into NATOPs quickly so the fleet wasn't grounded for an extended period of time (first time). http://oai.dtic.mil/oai/oai?verb=getRecord&metadataPrefix=html&identifier=ADA39359 <Salute> Punk

Yeah, too true. There is a guy who made his own, I will gather all the info he sent me on what he did and email it to you sometime in the next week or so. Not sure I will be able to do it, seems a bit beyond my limited abilities.

The actual pinky switch on the F-14 was used as the Autopilot Reference and Nose wheel button. I might use the side button to switch to back seat and 4 way for dogfight radar modes or some other backseat operations or something depending on how I set up the throttle. It is going to be trial and error I think.

I know this is an old post and not really what I am curious about, but it has the right title I guess for a pic I recently came across that I had never seen before. Anyway, I am wondering if atypical load outs will be available? I.E. 5 Sparrows and 3 Sidewinders as is what I see in the following pic among others provided it could be set up. I may be wrong, if so, my apologies and disregard. <Salute> Punk

While I understand where your sentiment comes from, I can not help but say how rude it is that you took time to post it and have the temerity to tell others how they should use an open forum on the interdweebs. Then again, it is an open forum... see what I did there? :P Ease up mate, it is all good. There are now two more useless posts burying the information and who knows how many more if you answer me back and I answer you and others chime in blah, blah, blah ... <Salute> Punk

Thank you very much for your offer, but I have some of the standard types, I am looking for the ones with holes so that the switches are maintained in certain positions. Again, thanks so much for the kind offer. I am trying to find replicas or guards similar/close to the type to use on the Weapons panel in the F-14 like the arming switch cover and such. <Salute> Punk

Thanks, the problem is many of those supplier sites won't sell to civilians, that is, a non-business. I am hoping someone knows a shop or something where you can actually buy one, not just get requests for pricing quotes.

Hi folks, I know many of you have lives that take you places I have not been or can not find. Does anyone know where some of the below pictured switch guards can be found or made? The internet is surprisingly quiet when it comes to them. Thanks. <Salute> Punk

All I can add is some more photos for the painters if they need them. I envy those who have the talent to do repaints.

I believe it simply sends out what is chosen by the back seat panel. Sorry, I thought that was implied by the panel being in the rear. I will recheck that, but it's my current understanding. <Salute> Punk

The major panel is in the back seat right (I think) side panel.

Ward Carroll uses that term quite often in his Punk's War series. Of course, as an ex RIO, he should be very familiar with that communities banter. <Salute> Punk

I have not looked into this one, I was told about PoKeys devices in conjunction with Arduino boards I think, the name I couldn't remember above. I will look at this stuff when I am feeling better, going through a bit of a rough patch at the moment. If I can locate the digital source of the material I was talking about I will forward to you so you can look it over and get an idea how someone else approached the issue. That might help confirm you are on the right track or offer other ideas for you to mull over. <Salute> Punk

Yes, it is the standard width. What the guy who made the F-18 version did was print them on plastic stock and used thin colored plastic panels for each one to get the right color. If you spend some time mulling it over I am sure you can come up with a few ways to try out. I will look for those pics tomorrow and try to get them out to you soon. Bodnar boards should work great, I have one, but haven't used it yet. The one I have on my test panel is from Desktop Aviator I think. I have one of the ones you have to program too, but also haven't tested it out, name of the boards escape me right now. I will probably try one of those for the lights. I have a write up of how one was used for Falcon BMS that should convert pretty close for DCS I hope and possibly FSX, though I think they do things very differently, but not sure yet. <Salute> Punk

Cool, I sent you a new batch of stuff, I believe one of them shows the colors for which lights are yellow/orange and which should be amber. If not, let me know and I will resend or it might be best to double check what the NATOPS says if you want accurate stuff, the pic I sent is from FSX I think so not sure how accurate it is as I have not gotten around to verifying it yet. There is a guy who makes them for F-18s on his 3d printer, smaller scale, but I can put some pics together with some shots of how his is put together and an original Hornet annunciator if you want ideas, just let me know. He was going to see about making one up for the Cat when I get around to paying him for it. I am excited to see what you come up with as well.

You should not need to worry about the switches at all. The only time you should need to worry is when lights are involved. Most of the switches will easily handle most I/O boards you might use. Not sure of the size of your push-buttons, but you might be able to countersink them from the backside of the panel if you are careful. <Salute> Punk

Not sure where you can find them that cheap. All Electronics (allelectronics.com) have standard 15/32" bushing switches starting at 1.85 for 10 or more on/off switches. Be careful on their site and read all the descriptions, it is easy to get miniature/smaller switches by mistake. They have what they call a dual SPST toggle switch for 1.50 ea. in their catalog. Their write up is a bit confusing on it, but it should do the job. It doesn't give the length of the actuator, so maybe their website might, or call them and ask before buying. If you go with the printed batons, maybe add a small hash mark next to the middle of each switch hole on the panel as a reference mark, this might help make it easier to tell the position, might, you would have to make a test on a piece of scrap to see. <Salute> Punk

Sealed switches would only be needed for replicating the real ones or if your sim will be exposed to the weather or little/big kids with cups/bottles of juice/beer. Regular switches should work fine.

I hope all the best. Key to sizing is the width as the side panels should all be 5.75 inches. Look forward to seeing what you come up with. I seem to remember a 12 degree bank on the side panels as well, though I can no longer find my source material. If anyone has different substantiated data I would love to hear it and get pointed in the right direction. <Salute> Punk

Sent you an email yesterday, hope you got it. Let me know if you need it resent. <Salute> Punk

I will try and get those to you tomorrow. I will look up a source that carries black acrylic stock that is white inside which might make it easy so little painting need be involved. I am not sure what it runs, might be a little more expensive than clear or white (if you are going to add any under lighting). You can find Dzus rails on eBay for around $75 for a 5 ft piece I think (last time I looked) or there is a place in NY I got some smaller pieces from but it came out to be more expensive. Another alternative is to find individual Dzus fasteners and screws, I have one pack somewhere buried in the boxes still unpacked from my move a couple months ago, I will see if I can find them for a pic or I might have got them off of eBay too, so might be a copy of the transaction somewhere. You can also find fake Dzus headed regular screws on sites like opencockpits I think. <Salute> Punk