rel4y

sorry double post

path: DCS World\Mods\aircraft\Bf-109K-4\Liveries\Cockpit_xyz You have to adjust the description.lua file with the textures from huligans mod. I am not sure I am allowed to upload a modified version of Patos mod. I get the green shield in MP, havent tried on a sever yet. The IC in 2.2 tightened a lot, at least in 2.1 the liveries folder was never checked. Here I quickly zipped two versions. One is standalone, the other works together with Patos cockpit. You have to activate a custom cockpit for the 109 K-4 in the special tab of the settings menu. PS: Btw, just tested and its working on Burning skies! dark_windows_fix.zip dark_windows_fix_plus_Patos.zip

It needs to be incorporated as a custom cockpit. I added it to patos cockpit mod and it works nicely.

There is no way I can get this SOB to work via custom cockpits... I even tried brute forcing the layer number. :doh: I put the description.lua in the spoiler below. (doesnt work)

Oh, that sucks. I just tested if I get a red shield in MP server mode and it was green. Sorry to hear. I will have a look later today, maybe I can implement it via custom cockpits.

NICE! Have been waiting for this a long time. :D

Here I modified the texture file to make the P-51 flyable again. The plane was absolutely useless with these reflections imo. Passes integrity check no problem. P-51D_reflections_fix.zip

Well if the vertical convergence was set up to 1000 yards most shots would indeed go above the Mustangs cockpit at its peak. But your right it would take like 3 secs to catch up to the peak of the arc. So probably some bug in the end.

The smoke tracers go up because your bullets are converging like a 1000 yards in front of you and therefore follow the ballestic trajectory in an arc to that point. When you fly level you will pass under that arc.

Hey Roman, It seems to be possible to update older firmware versions of the KREML controller? I found this PDF: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ahk71oy53ewrz94/%D0%9A%D0%BE%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BB%D0%B5%D1%80%20%D0%B4%D0%B6%D0%BE%D0%B9%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0%20L3_C5%20%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%81%D1%82%D1%80%D1%8B%D0%B9%20%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%80%D1%82.pdf?dl=00 The KREML board has the necessary SPI pins already, so it must be a software problem. Making the calibration cable also shouldnt be much of a challange. http://avia-sim.ru/forum/download/file.php?id=6660 [/url] Does the update to the latest firmware on the BRD-DS add support for shift registers such as CD4021 and 74HC165? This means also added support for TM Warthog etc. Btw the PDF file can be translated to english via google translate. Thank you!

Hello friends, Over the years I have had some trouble with my Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals. In principal it is a thing of the past now, as I replaced them with a set of BRD MS3 rudder pedals as seen here. Buuuut I like to fix stuff instead of throwing it out in the bin and so I finally completely repaired them. Initially I bought these for around 40 bucks on ebay with a broken foot brake axis in 2014 or something. Two of the grey plastic brake axis holders were broken and I tried glueing these together with superglue. As you can guess it lasted about 5 mins before breaking again. So my temporary fix was to switch out on of the broken holders to the other brake axis and replaced it with the intact one I took out. With both brakes now having one broken and one intact holder it was a bit wobbly, but it worked ok for more than two years. Then finally the crappy Saitek pot in the left foot axis choose to go to pot heaven and irreversibly broke down. Now there was no easy fix around as spare pots with only 30° rotation angle can be ordered nowhere on this planet. So I read about every second post of Sokol in the interwebs and ordered some Allegro A1324 hall sensors, some Neodymium magnets and actually a ton of other electronics stuff as well. :D I took the pedals apart, cleaned them, drilled out a few parts of the footbreak, broke some others off, glued my fingers to the thing several times, bent everything into shape, tested, took everything apart and started over, et voila.. the sucker is doing again what it seized to do a while ago. Now the good news is it actually works with contactless hall sensors, with the original Saitek firmware and electronics and has zero wear whatsoever. It is still quite DIY at the moment, but I am actually working on a drop in solution which should be done soon. While I was at it I also wanted to fix the broken brake axis holders. So next step was to design a 3D model and print it via Shapeways. The 3D printed parts luckily fit well, maybe a bit tight overall. I adjusted the tolerances in the model and now it should be perfect. Now for the fun part, the photos. Enjoy! :thumbsup: The cables were taped down later with some electric tape for a cleaner and practical cable management. Edit: In case anybody needs it here is the Shapeways link. https://www.shapeways.com/product/6H...shop-inventory

Just ordered a DMS castle switch to test out.

Well I read nothing about 10% off tomorrow. This makes the difference of ordering today or tomorrow, hence I am asking. Edit: Ok going for tomorrow.

Hey Debolestis! Which of these HAT buttons fit to ALPS RKJXL switches? This one eg? click Can you recommend the high def acrylate material over the normal nylon SLS for buttons? Also where did you get the info about 10% off from?

Oh sorry. No that's the large screw to for connecting the grip to the base. I guess I misunderstood your question a bit. :)

The screw thread is M36x2 mm. The nut of a Gardena hose adapter coincidentally fits perfectly. Google for GARDENA 8167. :)

I finally pulled the trigger on my first shapeways order and printed a fixed connecter for my BRD DS joystick base and a CH Combatstick/Fighterstick. It was basically just a test print to check if it works at all, but it fits perfectly in the grip. The print quality from the shapeways SLS process is pretty good, relatively tight tolerances and even holes turn out almost round. Though I did end up redrilling the holes for a better screw fit. The material seems quite sturdy, but the wall thickness on this piece is at minimum 3mm. I think it can absolutely take some abuse. I painted part of it with a black Edding and it seems to absorb the color pretty well and doesnt easily rub off. On the inside I cut out 7mm hexagons for the nuts, which fit in as designed. The next print will be a two piece system compatible with the warthog connector via a Gardena nut and PS2 plug. For today I am happy with drilling the four holes correctly into the metal pipe. :)

Good work! Thanks eekz!

The Brits did the assessment after the battle..?! Let me guess, they wanted to make the germans and american look better to hide how vulnerable those tanks were to RAF fighters and Patton was happy that he didnt need support of the tommys after all. All depends on the perspective I guess. Just kidding. :D Let me cite a few important parts:

100% agreed, it is simply ridiculus to knock out a half a tank battalion with a single fighter. +1 to your last comment.

I think you should read the link two posts above you. Pierre Clostermann wrote a few nice books, but also made heavy use of artistic liberties.

More like 80% K-4, depending on teambalance. But why is that a problem? I have probably close to 200 hours in the P-51 as well.

I am using devreorder for this, works like a charm. Put the devreorder.ini in your main install folder (eg "DCS World 2 OpenAlpha") and the x64 dinput8.dll in the "DCS World 2 OpenAlpha\bin" folder. In DCS the order of the devices doesnt matter, but in older games like Il-2 1946 it does and can mess up your whole setup depending on USB VID/PID of the controller. I want to hide vJoy and reorder my input controllers, so my devreorder.ini looks like this: https://github.com/briankendall/devreorder/releases https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23995&highlight=devreorder

I finally got around to install the brake pedal sensors for my awesome BRD-MS3 pedals, connect them and setup MMjoy2. It all works beautifully and is a joy to fly with. I designed the PCBs with Sprint and ordered them via OSH Park. The TLE5011 sensores are just incredibly precise sobs, as is the BRD-MS3 rudder mechanic! If anybody is interested in these PCBs or finished sensors for a home build, I still have 2 sets over as minimum order at OSHPark is 3 per piece. Here are a few pictures:

Well that's why I asked you if you had locked the tailwheel. Early 109s didn't have it and it is significantly harder to handle that way. If I unlock it, I honestly don't see much difference in the handling of both planes in DCS. I think rudder forces are not yet implemented in the Spitfire, so compared to the spit the rudder of the 109 is absolutely useless. It will also make the spit overly sensitive to inputs. So in essence the answer to your question probably lies in locking tailwheels and rudder forces.