Thadiun Okona

MS was very conservative when they decided how much power to allow this to pull. The motors and gears are fine with the additional load and heat is a concern so they made everything beefy but it doesn't run anywhere near its limits. So long as you can keep things cool, there's little to worry about with this mod, and replacement msffii cheap enough to keep one around for spares in case something fries. The guy that did this for his extension planned on incorporating a fan in the psu since it's getting hotter under these loads, which is a sensible precaution you may want to consider as well debolestis. I agree a lower weight grip makes more sense in this case, but for performance reasons not necessarily mechanical concerns.

Neat. Roland van Roy's mod is similar, but replaces the power supplies and ends up 400% the current, which is then fed into bigger motors. http://www.simprojects.nl/ms_siderwinder_ff2_hack.htm This mod is nice for being practical though, I may use it as a stop-gap solution for my sailplane cockpit now that Condor2 is officially in beta and it's gonna be a while before I can afford the motors I need to make the beefy version.

This ebay seller has 2 complete Eurocopter cyclics for a really good starting price http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eurocopter-Helicopter-Pilots-Cyclic-Control-Stick-Assembly-2-/253153802795?hash=item3af1247a2b:g:6NIAAOSw67lZusjP&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eurocopter-Helicopter-Pilots-Cyclic-Control-Stick-Assembly-1/253153784870?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D98658fa91c584629b15284d60f8ce873%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D253153802795&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 ...if I had money I would jump on these in a heartbeat, the grip shell is worth the money, not to mention the switches, stick, and part of the gimbals already there...

Back in stock in 50g tubes from MicroTools https://www.micro-tools.com/products/767a-50grt ...cheaper and free shipping through their ebay store: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube-/401292936041?epid=13006120232&hash=item5d6eec4369:g:6x0AAOSwol5YzIZc

As far as I've seen, everyone besides TM just uses a loose cable connection rather than a panel mount. It makes more sense IMO, it allows you to ensure the connector engages correctly before you mash the center out of the socket by tightening the collar with it out of orientation, which I've seen happen a lot of times and done a few times myself.

Beautiful. Having a few of these I've machined for myself a word of warning when using a collar that takes up the full space under the grip: The threads will engage before the miniDIN. You need to go very slowly and feel your way to make sure the miniDIN goes in right. Unlike these, on the stock TM setup the collar is narrow enough to lift out of the way and plug the connector first, then bring the threads together. Don't ask me how I know! :p

You should make it the model with the pinky trigger on it (C model?), and perhaps adding a faux collar (the nut with the knurling)

I believe you and dburne are right, that they are the same thing. Carry on.

With an Oculus it's about how high you can turn up supersampling and still maintain frame rates. Ti model can put out ~30% more performance, which will equate to sharper picture because you can turn SS up higher. Lots of folk mentioning PD settings from DCS menu but no one has mentioned SuperSampling yet which is done in the Oculus menu. It is said to be a 'night and day' difference if you can push the pixels though so in this use case the Ti model in this case actually does make a difference. https://www.vrheads.com/everything-you-need-know-about-supersampling-oculus-rift

IMO a more sensible starting point is a Cougar throttle grip and print the afterburner trigger/mount for it available here: http://www.checksix-forums.com/download/file.php?id=36195&sid=1ff76f9d0b7c1617211efad4132096c9 (from this thread, which also has the throttle arm and other useful printable bits..)

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping not to register for another forum, particularly since I only have one question and I know people from VKB are on this forum too as well as knowledgeable customers that have hardware in their hands already. No need anyhow, I see the new stem also has a register milled into the bottom it it which engages with a pin on the base which will clearly limit the grip to the narrow range of allowable twist adjustment, which would have to be less than +/-30deg or else the contact pad would no longer line up with the contact pins on the base. Looking at a picture of the base I was enough to confirm this limitation, there is a prominent register pin that will engage in the slot milled under the stem to limit the mechanical ability of mounting the grip facing forward within whatever the range of that slot allows but not exceeding +/-30deg (contact pads are 60deg triangles) of designated 'north'. Followup question: I'm doubtful from looking at it, but does anyone know if the gimbals can be flipped 180deg inside the base?

Quick question for a VKB techie: What will happen if you mount a grip 180deg backwards on the new Gunfighter base? The way the connector looks it appears as if the grip needs to be within +/-30deg of a designated 'north', but the DIY projects I'm working on req me to mount the stem with the pinchbolt at the rear instead of towards the front, which puts the contacts 180deg from their intended position.

Yes the connector at the base is a 5 pin miniDIN connector. They come in many different pin patterns but miniDIN connectors look the same on the outside.

The connectors are called 'microJST 1.25' (micro JST connector, 1.25mm pin spacing). Warthog uses 5 and 2 pin plugs, I've bought them off ebay before for pretty cheap but they are common plugs once you know the name. That is a Cougar in the pic btw, but it uses the same connectors and same board minus one of the single buttons (CMS down)

My guess is that because the roll axis pivots on the articulation sphere, it is providing a bit of damping in that axis which combines with the friction of the ball for smoother movement. Pitch is freely rotating on the ball and completely subject to the quality of the grease, and those are not created equal. Damping is a property almost non existent unless a grease is specifically formulated for it, like Nyogel 767a. Viscosity does not translate to damping, most 'thick' greases perform very poorly here. Nyogel is expensive and hard to find, but is basically a tube of magic goo that any simmer should have on hand to service peripherals or rebuild them to outperform their stock condition. However, all that said there *is one other cause of sticktion, and it's sort of easy to test for. The piston that slides up/down on the guide rods sometimes develops a crack in the plastic where the cast-in-place metal part joins it, allowing it to deform under load which in turn makes it ratchet through its range of motion. A really old beater I got off ebay was mystifying me the same as yours until I assembled it without the outer plastic shell on the base. That allowed me to keenly observe the mechanism through it's entire motion from all sides, allowing me to finally see the otherwise hidden damage because when the part was not under load the crack was invisible. Either way, pick up some Nyogel 767a, the properties of damping make it behave noticeably better than its stock condition when new. -damping grease vs: normal lubes -damping greases vs each other -VKB with/without damping grease... that extra 'smoothness' in motion very much translates into additional ability for fine control I have no affiliation with Nye Lubricants other than being continually amazed at how good real damping grease works in my friction mechanisms http://imgur.com/a/ixi64 vs the multitude of others I've tried over the years.

Yeah, I must be confusing this with another thread as it looks like you hosted your images instead of posting files like most of the builders around here do.. my bad Hopefully imgur continues to be the 'stable' host, way too many threads have been rendered useless by defunct hosting... which I suppose is one reason to upload files direct.

Well that wold throw a big bucket of water on it happening anything soon if that's the case. I couldn't find anything definitive on the subject when searching though did find some references about lighting and shading becoming a challenge, which at least hints there's more to it than I initially thought.

This thread was already good but switching to hosted images makes it much better. Boggles my mind how many folk still upload files to their threads, making it annoyingly slow to view them even if your puter/internet is fast cause the site is slow. Just noticed you have an F-16 grip w/the paddle removed instead of a Warthog. Does the 13deg fwd pitch and make it interfere with the panel or feel awkward on the reaches? For the curious: F-16 grip Warthog grip

The stock screws are M4 x8mm to mount it to a 3mm thick base. Your MDF is 18mm, so add 15 to that and 24 or 25mm is the closest stock length you will find. The grip weighs ~1000g and the base about half that, however this is hardly a consideration for the load since pushing/pulling on the grip will be generating more force than the dead weight but 18mm mdf is plenty stiff enough to deal with this. Affirmative, the square mounting pattern is 60mm center to center

Foveated rendering would not be done by ED or a feature that requires them to do anything special on their end. Headsets equipped with eye tracking that are set up it (and the pc's they're plugged into) are what does the work, all ED would need to do is support the raw resolution in VR. More FoV will definitely be nice, but even limited to 100deg gives you a lot more to look at even than triple monitor since everywhere you look you still have that 100deg. Still though, actual peripheral vision would be pretty nice. It's also another thing tied to increased resolution capacity so relevant to foveated rendering. Both are a matter of pushing pixels more efficiently then current pc technology can with brute force.

LG's upcoming HMD looks pretty rad more of a gen1.5 if you will... slightly higher res (may increase more), Lighthouse tracking and controllers similar to Vive's, with ergonomics that are improved version of PSVR Gameface floundered, went back to the drawing board and now look to have something promising soon, higher res, Lighthouse tracking, stand-alone use, https://www.engadget.com/2017/07/17/gameface-labs-vr/ Current high end cards and well built computers actually have no problem keeping up on the fps in current gen VR, the problem is devs can't count on people having that nice of machines on average but a bit more resolution even right now today is perfectly achievable for today's higher spec'd machines. As soon as eye tracking is allowing foveated rendering however, there will be an overnight increase in screen resolution which will happen long before raw computing would be powerful enough to render full screens at that res. Samsung is working on new displays with very high res and super tiny pixel pitch that industry will be able to take advantage of soon. Any HMD that doesn't meet the minimum requirements for 'low persistence' is not a contender, which is what the 90hz min req is about. Likewise any HMD that doesn't also have rock solid 6dof tracking is also not a contender either. True 'next gen' HMD will be -wireless -stereoscopic passthrough cameras likely with inside-out tracking -AR capabilities -eye tracking/foveated rendering -much higher resolution displays -integrated gloveless hand tracking Might not all make it in the next gen, but this is where it is heading and at least some of those features will be in gen2 offerings.

But not an entirely thankless task, current users and future tinkerers that find the posts and their pics helpful are in your debt :)

I used to use the A1302, then I discovered the A1324... same form factor but 90deg range of motion and you can use even smaller magnets if you want. Better suited for most cockpit applications due to the reduced range of motion. Here's an album documenting some pots I made with Alegro sensors. When I made the album I was using the 1302's but have since switched but use the same magnets and relations. https://imgur.com/a/WkQtw

Wow, that's a lot of work but thanks for doing that, it's always a shame when great threads lose the pics that are their backbone. Unrelated, but I never got around to making a measurement/drawing of the speedbrake housings, do you still need those?

Click the 'insert image' icon and paste the link in there (use imgur 'direct link' or manually add .jpg)