Pyker

Hmmm. Just tried it, but it did nothing to Jester. What could I be doing wrong ? (I have no other mod installed with OVGME.) Did anybody actually try it yet ? Otherwise, anybody figured out the path to the SDEF file ?

Cool ! Thank you very much! I'll try as soon as I've done my homework :-)

Alas, I've not been able to locate the sdef file. I found two sdef files with "ICSCont" in their name, one had a gain of 2.0, but changing it to 1.0 had no effect, so I guess that's not the right file. Does anybody know which file it is and where it is, please ? Thank you in advance.

+1: default RIO volume should match wingman/ATC etc. volume.

When I activate the Jester Menu, I have a kind of background "white noise". I suppose it simulates the noise of the intercom. I don't like it because it is a low frequency noise that interferes with my subwoofers/transducers. I would appreciate if it could be suppressed, as an option. It is enough for me to hear Jester's voice as I would through an intercom, I don't want the added background noise. Or is it possible to just delete/inactivate that particular noise in one of the DCS world config/lua files ? (e.g. replace its sound file by an "empty" sound file) ? I did a brief search for that "issue" on the forum but did not find a thread about it. Thank you in advance.

Not really. For me (and for most people, as far as I was aware), TIR was just a huge improvement over the POV hat switch and padlocking. It saved a hat switch and made looking around easier and more natural, so more immersive. So for me the Rift (or any 1st-gen HMD) is an improvement over the TIR just like the TIR was an improvement over what existed before.

Yes for me you can. I'm a casual simmer who plays only in SP. In the years 2000 I was playing with 3D shutter glasses on a CRT monitor with a Fresnel lens to increase the FOV, and a TrackIR. Back then, I was already dreaming of an affordable HMD. Next (around 2011) was a 50" HD plasma television set, trading 3D for better image quality, higher resolution and a simplified setup. The TrackIR was still there of course. Not bad but I missed the 3D. Then came along the Vive and the Rift. I bought the Rift as soon as the price went down to 450 Euros. Now I have to play again with minimum graphics settings and I have plenty of SDE in the Rift, but I would NEVER go back to 2D. The Rift might not be "good" in terms of image quality, but in terms of immersion it is, for me, better than anything else for the price. I don't buy or play anymore games which are not Rift-compatible. The only thing I miss (not Rift-compatible) is Falcon BMS. But not much, because I have the Hornet.

Excellent idea, I'm gonna try this weekend. Thanks!

I contacted Debolestis and he made it for me. I don't think he put it in his shapeways shop yet. @buzzu I don't care for ramp starts so I mapped the engine startup and stuff to the apu switch. @panther Thanks for the explanation. So, other people using a throttle without idle detent have this problem too or what ?

I have a Warthog throttle. I removed the idle detent with a device made by Debolestis and re-calibrated the throttle, in order to get some extra range at the lower end (where the idle detent was) and thus more accuracy. It works with planes like the F5 and the F15, but not with the F18. In the Hornet, the throttle does not respond in the low-end zone, where the idle detent originally was. At least, I don't see the throttle move in the cockpit at the lower end. It has to be a bug in the Hornet module, since it works in the F5 and the F15.

Yes! It did the trick! I just re-did a calibration procedure but leaving the throttle at "off" when the tool said to put it at "idle" and Voilà ! Thank you so much! Now all I need is to have Debolestis make a plastic piece with no idle detent and a push-through two-step afterburner detent. Again thank you thank you thank you.

Hi, I have a Warthog throttle and one of these Debolestis plastic devices that removes both the idle detent and the afterburner detent. Unfortunately, removing the idle detent does not allow to extend the electrical range (response range) of the throttle, which is too bad. The throttle response is zero over the whole course of the throttle from the idle position and lower (before the detent). I would prefer to have an extended range of electrical response rather than idle detents (that is why I bought this Debolestis item). Is there some mod (hardware or software) that can get the desired result (extend the response range of the Warthog throttle to the portion that comprises the idle detents) ? I hope this was not already addressed elsewhere in the forum (I did do a search and browsed the Debolestis thread but it's very long and I may have missed it).

+1

Nevermind, I found it. Unticking "hear like in helmet", setting "World" sounds on 100%, "In cockpit" on 1% and "Helmet" on 1% did it

Hi, I'm using an "Aurora interactor", which is some kind of ancestor of the Buttkicker, Simshaker and other devices that transmit vibrations to the seat. I got it years ago on Ebay, it was cheap. For the moment I play only with the F15C in DCS 1.5 (but I also bought DCS 2.1/NTTR and the F5E). The problem is, the in-cockpit sound of the engine is very quiet compared to the other in-cockpit sounds. So, to feel the vibrations from the engine, I have to set the volume of the Aurora Interactor (on the amplifier) very high. But then the volume of all the other in-cockpit sounds is very high as well, especially all the beeps (stall warning, etc.), Betty, the AIM-9 growl, and so on. That makes it unbearable not only for me but also for other people in the house. I tried fiddling with the various volume settings in the game but, as I said, if I change the in-cockpit volume, then it affects all sounds in the cockpit, not just the engine. I also unticked the box "hear like in helmet" but if anything it was worse. The "helmet" volume tab seems to affect only the radio messages, correct ? So would you know a way to make just the in-cockpit engine sound MUCH louder (compared to all the other in-cockpit sounds) ? Can I edit for instance the corresponding sound file(s) to increase the volume ? If yes, would anybody be so kind to indicate how, or at least which file(s) (and where they are) ? Sorry if there's an obvious solution that I missed (I did use the search function but did not find a solution). Until then maybe I can play with the F5 which has no betty :D (correct?). Thank you in advance.

Hi There, I am currently modding my TM Cougar stick. I have two Bourns potentiometers lying around that I would like to use for this mod. There is just a little problem which is that they are 10 KOhm pots instead of the 100 KOhm of the Cougar’s original pots. Would that be a problem ? I thought that it would be harmless, since the only difference would be the minimum voltage seen by the Cougar’s PCB when the resistance of the pot is at the max, right ? The max voltage would still be about 5V, right ? (and for this reason any Hall sensor working at 5V should work as well, right ?) Or would that affect the range/curve/response/whatever? Before I do something stupid... Thank you in advance.

I think I got it:Hirose DF13 connector. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8052998 Can anybody confirm please ?

I agree with everything in your last post :-) So sorry if I duplicate what you just wrote. Sorry that I did not explain well. What I meant is: I will use the TQS as standalone. So the USB controller will be for all buttons/axes, not just the microstick. I already have the USB controller (not an Arduino but similar). Indeed I want to make a cable that plugs at one end into the 22-pin connector coming out of the handle, and at the other end into the USB controller. By "elegant" I mean that this is easier for me than to try to fit 6 more wires into the TQS handle, I don't mean that it is prettier ;-). Indeed I will use wires 17-22 (blue-grey-white-black-brown-red) in the 22-pin connector. I know I have to add diodes to make the matrix for the buttons but that's easy. After a bit of research it seems that the connector on the microstick PCB could be a "Molex picoblade." Anybody can confirm ? I know, I could just unsolder the one of the microstick but I'd prefer to buy a new one. And thank you Sokol for the links to the connectors and the crimping tool!

Thank you, I already had those drawings, I used them to figure out how to connect the USB controller to the 15-pin "VGA" cable. It worked well except that the microstick spikes. That is why I have to replace it. I never liked it anyway. My plan was to make an intermediate cable to connect the 22-pin connector coming out of the handle and the 3-pin connector of the throttle pot to the USB controller (maybe inside the TQS base if I have enough space). This way, no need to cut wires or anything of the original TQS. 6 wires from the microstick PCB to the 22-pin connector, that's all I needed for the new hat. Then I can arrange the rows and columns as I want for connecting to the USB controller. To pass a new cable for the new hat is indeed another possibility. Just a little less elegant in my opinion. On some web sites I found "micro latch molex" connectors that look quite similar. Could they be the same ?

Hello, I'm planning to replace the microstick of my Cougar throttle with this: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_87&products_id=210 (Then I'll connect the throttle to a generic USB controller, of course, since the new microstick won't work with the cougar stick base or TUSBA. That's the easy part. I've done it already.) That should get rid of the spiking etc. once for all. Plus IMHO the original microstick was way too imprecise to be of any usefulness anyway. Now my problem is the following. To make the job easier, I'd like to leave the existing 6 wires inside the throttle handle and the 6-pin connector that connect them to the original microstick PCB as they are, and to solder a matching connector on the new microstick's PCB. (Then it will not be very difficult to connect the other ends of the wires to the generic USB controller.) I've searched online for such a small 6-pin connector. But I know nothing about electronics. So I couldn't find one because I don't know how it is normally called. I could unsolder the one on the old microstick's PCB but I'd prefer to buy a brand new one (easier). Would anybody know, by chance, the reference / usual name of these connectors, so that I can try to find them in some online store or on Ebay ? Thank you in advance.

Voice activated commands? Dwvac.com (the one I used some time) or equivalent