RackMonkey

What you hope not to find I purchased a used WH off eBay. They did say they couldn't test it but I took a chance it wasn't to bad. I thought you guys would get a kick out of what I found inside.:doh: Somebody had to use a hammer to try and get this thing back together. The pivot ball is in 3 pieces.The bell wires are broken and the end of the Y axis guide looks like it's been pounded on. The last part is the CMS button shaft. It looks like they tried to twist the button off of it. I've contacted TM to see if I can get replacements. We'll see how much it's going to cost to get this thing working again. :joystick:

That would be $200US. I don't think it will ever get that low. As said, we are finding them for $300US. It might be worth it to have a friend in the US get you a "gift" and send it to you. I have no idea what shipping would cost but it might be less than buying the WH in Aus.

Already asked debolestis about 3D printing one of his offset tails with the extension baked in. 13 degrees forward and 15 degrees left will take a lot of stress off the wrist. Just need to do the slew upgrade.

Does anybody know if you can get replacement gimble balls and bell housings from TM? If not, maybe debolestis can print them if somebody can get him the dimensions. Then we would need way to get a wiring harness for it. I bought a stick with what looks like the same internal problems but the tail isn't broken.

Thanks for the heads up Willx. They'll be here by the weekend so I can be back on TTI by the weekend blowing up shit.

I've looked at all of them and I got a WH stick. I got one that "couldn't be tested" really cheap. It is in bad shape. I've already emailed TM to see about getting replacement parts. I've contacted debolestis about getting a few of his 3D printed parts that will be an upgrade to the stick. The one thing I can't find, except for an upgrade to the slew switch, are replacement or upgraded switches. I can't find anything that looks like the originals at DigiKey or Mouser, but there are ever 4000 switches listed under "push button" filters. I kinda wish Radio Shack was still around. But with all that said, given price and configurations on the other HOTAS systems, TM looks to be the best choice. I just need to find a TM throttle to buy and do some upgrades on it.

That is the kind of information I wanted. I've edited the original post to show your information about the switch pretty much as I would expect a moderator to do. Somebody looking to upgrade or replace the switch could easily find what their looking for. I'm assuming that it's the throttle pinkie switch. A moderator would come up with a standard format for submission that would have all the pertinent information about the part.

I wish somebody with the knowledge would create a sticky that list replacement parts and where to find them with part numbers for the hardware we use. An example would be the push buttons on my Warthog stick. I have spent hours looking at Mouser and DigiKey web sites, but in reality, I have no idea what i'm looking for. And when I think I've found what i'm looking for there is only a generic picture. Do you know there are 4391 push button switches listed on DigiKey? I know we have people who are professional and hobbyist in electronics and would know how to look for these parts. There are others who real good at CAD/CAM and 3D printers for part that need to be replace. It would be nice to be able to go to sticky and find a list of replacement and upgrade parts. This would be moderated by a select few who knew what they were looking at to avoid the sticky getting to unwieldy and to keep the format the same for all parts listed. I think it would go something like this... It doesn't show up the way I want because I can't figure out how to indent. Thrustmaster -Warthog --Stick ---Trigger switch ----- ---Push Button switchs -----Mouser.com-Otto P1 or P8 series ---3D Printed parts-Shapways.com\tech\search Warthog --Throttle ----Slew switch ----Detent gate ------https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis?section=Knobs&s=0

This stick and throttle package is still unrealistically expensive even though it's a long in the tooth. I still see used one's on eBay for over $500.00 even though you can get a new one of around $450.00. I read about slew switch's that are universally regarded as a piece of shit. PCB's that brick for no apparent reason and a stiction issue that can only be the result of poor manufacturing and quality control. To top all this off I read about the marvelously spotty support from Thrustmaster. I just read a post about a guy who got his brand new F18 stick only to find one of the buttons is inop. Hell, they don't even keep a supply of replacement parts for their loyal customers who want to keep the old system working. Thrustmaster has been setting on their butt because the Warthog WAS the best available at the time. All this time TM could have been learning from the mistakes. Researching new materials and methods of production to create a better system, but no, they will ride the old Warthog until Virpil or VKB relegates them to a second rate producer of sim hardware. They wont have far to go. Their very close to being there now. I think I'll limp along with what I have until somebody comes along with a good product at a reasonable price and that will support their system.

Does anybody know if there is an equivalent US produced USB interface board to the Leo Bodnar boards and all the other wonderful gadgets that are on that site.

Right but wrong This will work. It does allow you to move your head back, BUT, You'll lose most of your HUD and you'll have to stay perfectly still in order to see that little part that is visible.

This is something that has to be fix by DCS to maintain their reputation for reality. If you look backwards from the default position in the A10 your 12 to 18 inches in front of the parachute pack. Your nose is in the front panel and buttons and text on the MFCD don't line up. I don't know any pilot that would fly in that position and especially if their pulling G's. If you change you position and put you head where it should be you lose half of you HUD. PLEASE don't tell me to use the zoom function. It doesn't change your head position but currently it is the only way to see more of the front panel and still be able to see the HUD...if you can focus on something that small.

Finally...the correct answer! I've checked this and it does, in fact, change the FOV. Unlike a lot of FOV answers that think zooming in and out changes the FOV. It is also correct that doing this will keep you from flying on a lot of multiplayer missions because of the integrity check. What most people don't realize (DCS) is how important your peripheral vision is in spotting movement during ACM. If you ask any vision professional they'll tell you that you can spot movement easier using you peripheral. DCS-We need to be able to change the FOV and still pass the integrity checks. If DCS is meant to be realistic then we should be able to use our full range of vision.

Thanks guys I spotted the post by Donkey after I put mine up. I tried some of the suggestions and got it a little clearer. I'm going to try everybody's setting to see how they work. I think some of it might be size. With my 3 22" monitor the MFD's are smaller than actual size, that might be contributing to the problem of reading them. I think I'll try the 3 camera setup and see what happens.

Me too I add my vote for this option.:pilotfly:

No matter what I do I can't read the MFD's unless I zoom in so that my nose is 6" from the virtual screen of the MFD. I've got a 1060 video card and a 1920 X 1080 monitor. I can read all of the static labels in the cockpit. I've bumped my setting up and down to try and get it readable at some setting but it's the same blur no matter what I do. I'm going to borrow a friends 42" 4K monitor this weekend but if the problem is in the programming that won't help.

I was wondering if any body has found a way to get DCS to cycle through options with a single button? My example is the radar modes. With the 4 modes assigned to the KB 2,3,4 and 6 keys. Is it possible to assign just 1 button on the X52 to cycle from one mode to the next in a kind of round robin? I would also like to assign the air brake to the slider on the throttle but can't seem to find the option to assign it to an axis. I'm not really sure if air brakes on the F15 are binary or not. I know on the F4 they could be extended to what ever degree the pilot wanted.