CyBerkut

Wait! I think I saw this in that Nicolas Cage movie, Fire Birds... Your dominant eye is the wrong one... you have to train yourself to use the other one! :smartass: . . . Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Hopefully the suggestions in the earlier posts help get you straightened out!

What Frames Per Second (FPS) do you get with Cachya? It will undoubtedly vary from webcam to webcam, but what amount of CPU load are you seeing associated with the use of the webcam for this?

I'm not concerned about their ability to add hats and buttons. The more likely source of disappointment is their apparent intention. They seem to be largely targeting this effort toward being a solution for FPS games, and choosing the switch configuration with that in mind. On top of that, intentionally allowing the hydraulics to leak sounds a bit questionable. It may not be an issue at all, depending on how it gets implemented (ie. a sealed sump, dialectric fluid), but it could be. For instance, if they design the thing to be used with the base sitting level, and someone puts it on a motion platform that can reach significant angles...

See the post over in the Cyborg Evo Force Joystick thread... What I think you may be seeing above is that the control settings while you are in training mode are being set by whatever the trainer had when he recorded it. Assuming he didn't have a force feedback setup like yours, his settings probably make your stick act like a non-FFB stick. As such, after you release the trim button, if you do not then re-center your stick within 0.5 seconds, the position of your non-centered stick (without the trim button being depressed) will now get added as additional inputs to the control system (ie. 'Added' to the trimmed input that you set). The non-FFB stick users train themselves to re-center their stick within 0.5 seconds of releasing the trim button (Unless they are using Reticuli's auto-trim scripts, or somesuch). With your FFB stick holding the trim position for you, that should not be necessary for you, but remember that training missions are (apparently) not using your controller settings, and can be expected to yield unexpected results. ;)

Ahhh... OK, check out this thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=36662&highlight=controls+training+mode In particular: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=615209&postcount=4 This one might help too: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=617379&postcount=6

OK. Have you actually tried: - Default spring = 0% - Spring gain = 38% - Other options at 100% with the spring manually disabled? As for the stick centering... why do you want that? I understand the sentiment that it should not be necessary to manually disable the mechanical spring... however, I note that those who haven't are not happy with how their stick fails to hold the trimmed position, and at least some of us who have disabled it have had pretty good results. Personally, I'm less concerned with the principle and more interested in what actually works. Next question... what operating system are you running? What Saitek driver version? Have you checked for more recent ones on the Saitek web site? I'm on Vista 64bit, and I believe I have the most recent driver version (but I would have to check that, and I'm not home at the moment.)

I'll leave the ettiquette aspects to someone more qualified ;), but I will add that I did think that it made it more confusing to sort out the message traffic. A big :thumbup: to both SDeath and Frederf for contributing to the community, but it probably would be better if Frederf started a new thread to distribute/develop his version(s). :)

:lol: There's something to be said for that, to be sure! I think you'll find that puppy incredibly hot unless you figure out a way to incorporate air or water cooling into it. The OP's helmet looked like it had some ventilation holes at least. (That's the good thing about bicycle helmets... they are generally well ventillated, and light weight. :pilotfly:

Yes. Others are doing exactly what you are talking about.

I have to wonder if some folks are expecting more force on the cyclic than what the actual Ka-50 has when trimmed. Quoted from over in another thread "Feel of the real ka 50?" http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=37573 : AlphaOneSix's description of the cyclic seems to fit pretty well with what I feel on the Saitek Evo Force. Yes, I wouldn't mind if it was a bit stiffer while trimmed, but I can't honestly say that it is too weak as it currently is (without more to go on, any ways...). It would be nice if a future patch/release gave us some more adjustment over that (even if it isn't "realistic"), as it is obvious that a number of folks aren't satisfied. I'd say Hajduk's work has shown that it isn't really something that could/should be referred back to Saitek, as the stick clearly has enough @ss to deliver more resistance if it is requested by the software.

I don't know how big you are wanting to go. There are some very nice, Hi-resolution wallpaper images at: http://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/index.php?end_pos=2053&scr=products&lang=en The bottom left one (2 Ka-50's over a river bed) is absolutely gorgeous on a full 1080p HD screen.

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=35052&page=4 Thereminqblank's settings seemed to do the trick for mine. I also have the physical spring disabled (I used garbage bag twist ties to compress it). I'm on Vista 64 bit, if that helps to know. I may even graft my Saitek X52 grip on to the Cyborg Force's base, as the CF grip is not to my liking (not enough hat switches, etc.) [Opinion mode on] A lot of this seems to come down to expectations about what the stick should do in given situations. Based on the descriptions from the sim developers on how the real Ka-50's controls behave/feel, and the limited authority of the autopilot functions, I think Thereminqblank's settings put us in the ball park. [Opinion mode off] I should point out that I don't have much time in yet on flying the sim. I still have a lot to do to get the controls setup they way that I want them, etc. When I finally get past the limitations of time/money/motivation/spousal unit, and get a configuration that I'm happier with, I expect to be flying more.

It doesn't appear to me to be targeting the simulator customer group... If it was, I would dare say it would have hat switches and more buttons on the stick grip. A wheel and 2 buttons on the grip is a serious miscalculation on their part, IMHO.

I believe the wheel has to be programmed in the SST software.

"What kind of controls will the user have to it's ability. The Paccus Hawk we are working on now is the basic version, but it still has three axis, a horizontal mouse wheel en two buttons on the head of the stick and a precision trigger. On the base of the stick there will be a small keyboard. All keys you are free to designate to any key or combination of keys. Next to that the firmware is upgradable and tweakable." I hope their advanced version is geared more to flight simmers. I suspect that basic version as described is not going to satisfy many serious flight sim folks. Of course, Urze and others may find it worthy of grafting a Thrustmaster or Saitek grip on to it...

It may not be applicable in this situation, but another thing to watch out for is that BS will map the collective to the slider by default.

Well, since you're apparently approaching the "grasping at straws" stage of troubleshooting, ... Does it make a difference if you back off of the overclocking on the one (watercooled) card? Granted, I don't think that should be necessary, but since the cards aren't co-operating as is, maybe getting them closer in frequency would do the trick.

Perhaps you have a tailwind of 10... A hover is not defined as zero airspeed, but rather being stationary over a particular spot on the earth.

Also of possible interest: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=38140

64 Bit version is now mirrored here: http://rapidshare.com/files/197444018/SD6_64_Software_6_6_2_0.exe.html :)

So who's going to be the first to ask for a recording of the mission???...

FreeTrack does 6DOF. In DCS:BS, only 3DOF for FreeTrack is included by default (in the English version). However, a work around to gain the full 6DOF for FT in DCS:BS was devised. I don't remember off the top of my head whether it was in these forums, or over on FreeTrack's (The latter, I think), but it definitely works.

I currently use FreeTrack. I am considering the purchase of TrackIR, and I'll elaborate for you here, as it may be helpful to you. If you are a Do It Yourself kind of guy, FreeTrack can get the job done for you. You will be trading time and effort (to learn the ins and outs, and then make the stuff work) for the dollars you save by not buying a TrackIR. Only you can decide what you value more. If you do a search of these forums, you will also see folks make some strong points about supporting Natural Point (the makers of TIR) to help keep that sort of innovation going, etc. If you buy a TrackIR4 and a TrackClip Pro, you will have USB powered devices and software that should pretty much *just work* right out of the box. That is no minor consideration. With FreeTrack, you are going to need to come up with devices, and make them work. Many use a webcam, and then modify it as needed... which usually means removing the InfraRed filter, and installing a visible light filter (exposed film negative, or some floppy diskette media, for instance). With a webcam, you will typically see much lower frames per second of tracking, and it typically puts a performance hit upon your computer/game, since the CPU is doing a lot of processing of the camera's output. [The TrackIR does not impose a heavy processing load upon your CPU]. Alternatively, some of us use a Wiimote, as it has an IR camera built into it, and it does the bulk of the processing internally. It's load upon the CPU is probably close to that of the TrackIR (ie. minimal to none). The downsides of using a Wiimote are: 1. It is a Bluetooth connection. 2. It is battery powered. On the Bluetooth, the Wiimote is not a 'standard' device, and a bit of google searching will show you that not every Bluetooth stack will work with it. If you already have Bluetooth, you may find that you need to spend money on a new Bluetooth stack (software), such as BlueSoleil, in order to get the Wiimote working with FreeTrack. Furthermore, if you are like me, the extra steps of starting up the Bluetooth connection and then FreeTrack, before you even get to BlackShark (or whatever game/sim), gets old. As for the battery power, that can be remedied. You can either use rechargables, buy a Wiimote charger set (another form of rechargables), or get an adapter that runs off of a wall wart. ---------------- Then you get to the 'point model'. You can build your own, and make it battery powered, (or if you are brave, make it USB powered). Alternatively, you can buy a TrackClip Pro. The problem, apparently, with a Track Clip Pro for Wiimote/FreeTrack users is that a Wiimote works best with 950 nm IR LEDS, and the TrackClip Pro LEDS are running at some other wavelength. My FreeTrack works, but it has not been as smooth as the various head tracking videos you find on Youtube. ------------------------- [Opinion mode on] To answer your question... You don't have to buy a Track IR, as FreeTrack can get you there... but you will be happier *sooner* if you buy the TrackIR. Less muss, less fuss, and it is the head tracking standard that gets supported by game/sim authors more than any other. [Opinion mode off] As to how much a FreeTrack setup can save you, it depends upon what you already have, how handy you are, and what performance level you find acceptable. If you already have a suitable webcam that you can dedicate to the task, and some dead remotes laying around to scrounge IR LEDs out of (You'll want three), you can coble something up for very little additional immediate cost. Most likely, the head tracking frames per second will not be as high as the TIR's is. You may also be going through periodic battery changes unless you make your point model USB powered. If you want a head tracking FPS closer to what the TIR gets, then you are looking at using a Wiimote with the attendant Bluetooth rigamrole. Then you have even more battery changes, or the cost of a charger or wall wart powered battery substitute. If you don't already have the Bluetooth and a Bluetooth stack that will work with the Wiimote, then that is another potential expense. Best Regards,

No. There is a rumor that Saitek is going to be coming out with an FFB HOTAS. We shall see.

I can't begin to describe the envy... Congrats, Trigger! have fun! :thumbup: