ElCuco68

C'mon, man! These guys aren't hammering out guns with hand tools on some goat trail in Ubekistan. They have access to the internet, modern shipping organizations, electricity, and from what I understand, significant sums of cash that trusting customers are plunking down, in advance, on a product that they'll deliver, what, whenever they don't have to worry about dodging sniper fire on the way to the post office? Here, check this guy out: This guy could make flight sticks out of camel vomit and monkey snot, and have it delivered to my door before I'm up scratching myself and beating my kids in the morning. Anyway: Are you saying you might have a solution to my dilemma?

I'm a former submarine sonar technician with a complete machine shop, including a CNC center, in my basement. Maybe I should just make the frickin' thing and quit bitching. It would probably blow away anything out there, for sale or otherwise.

Several months isn't "slightly slower", and I stand by my opening statement. I purchase things from all over the World on a frequent basis, from common items to tight-toleranced one-off hand-machined parts, and I have never encountered a situation like this. As far as I can gather, nothing in their shop is hand-sculpted or machined or anything like that. Even if they're soldering individual components onto a PC board on-site,which I doubt, even that's not such a time and labor-intensive task on a device like that, that after leading people on for months, you should find this on their site: "Next batch availability: To be determined by VKB HQ." What the HELL is that? And just so I understand the rules: is it considered bad form on this site to complain about a for-profit company that advertises its wares on here when they apparently think their product is so precious that they can hit you with "Next batch availability: To be determined by VKB HQ.", and you, what exactly, should consider it a privilege to continue waiting for their product until whenever they're damned good and ready to let you know when they might have one? Yeah, I'll get right on that! Meanwhile, I'll get a Warthog, and mod it with the FSSB Lightning. I don't mind plunking down $650 for a joystick with buttons if I know I'll have it sometime before senility sets in.

So, advertising a product, and ensuring you have the ability to keep enough stock on hand so that your customers aren't waiting months for a product, getting fed up, and going with the readily-available product to sink their money into something they'll probably only buy once in their life, in a market that's already exceedingly small, that's a Western thing? See, call me a culture snob or "ugly American" or whatever the Hell you want to in that case, but I'm not a cultural relativist. Some are clearly better than others, at least in some regards, and if that is a cultural norm among people hoping to compete in a World-wide (but again, small) market, then you probably ought to abandon that practice, tradition, or whatever you want to call it. This is rapidly becoming a global economy. Evolve, or die; your choice.

I have the superposition pay version. Should I also get VR Mark, in addition to 3D with TimeSpy, etc? Playing DCS in VR now, as a matter of fact. I've gotten over 110 games since getting the Oculus last month (!).

Results Well, getting rid of the offset did it! Thanks!

So set AVX to zero and keep it there? I'm thinking that heat may not end up being a problem (hopefully). I've got 14 fans running, including 8 top-of-the-line Noctuas running push/pull around the radiators. The cpu was delidded, a copper heat spreader installed and lapped, and liquid metal used underneath too.

It says that my multiplier is at 51 when running the test, but 52 when not running, even though every pertinent setting is at manual in the BIOS. So, do you like 3DMark better than the others, like Cinebench? What about VRMark and the other one that they make? They're $29 each and Cinebench was free. Is it worth spending the money? What about getting the $39 version of AIDA64, versus the free trial version? Am I missing some vital functionality?

I managed to successfully stress-test my 8700K to 5.2 GHz for 15 minutes, at a maximum temperature of 81 C (briefly stayed at this temp, but most of the time at mid-70s), a core/cache voltage of 1.39V, a CVX core ratio of 1, and a minimum CPU cache ratio of 46. The thing is, CPU-Z said it was running at 5.2 GHz when the stress test was off, but 5.1 when running stress tests (using Real Bench's test and AIDA64's stress test). Is this unusual? Am I not running enough voltage? I do have CPU core/cache current limit at its maximum setting, and I set all RAM settings in the BIOS according to Corsair's specifications for the RAM.

....to order separately when your store re-opens on October 1st? What is the price? I need to know so I can make a decision in the next day or so, about whether I'm willing to wait any longer. If this is still up in the air, I'm getting a Warthog.

So, I've been patiently waiting for months for either one of these two to start actually offering their products for sale. I've been checking about twice a week, every now and then seeing an update that's gone from stating thuff will be available, let's see, first it was July, then August, then September, and now it's "to be determined". I'm done. I'm getting a TM Warthog, and either sticking with it, or getting an FSSB Lightning if I decide to upgrade. There's really no excuse for this. It's one thing if you occasionally fall behind, but leading everyone on for months (or years, for all I know), then saying "we really have no idea when this product we've been advertising will be available" is unacceptable. There's no problem that a company that manufactures and sells in-demand products at a premium price can't overcome. There's obviously a positive cash flow, and the potential for plenty more, and shortcomings in production speed respond to the generous application of money. It takes money to make money, so spend it,keep your customers happy, and you will no doubt bring in more. This reeks of incompetence, or at least an aversion to risk that suggests a lack of business acumen.

So, I've been patiently waiting for months for either one of these two to start actually offering their products for sale. I've been checking about twice a week, every now and then seeing an update that's gone from stating thuff will be available, let's see, first it was July, then August, then September, and now it's "to be determined". I'm done. I'm getting a TM Warthog, and either sticking with it, or getting an FSSB Lightning if I decide to upgrade. There's really no excuse for this. It's one thing if you occasionally fall behind, but leading everyone on for months (or years, for all I know), then saying "we really have no idea when this product we've been advertising will be available" is unacceptable. There's no problem that a company that manufactures and sells in-demand products at a premium price can't overcome. There's obviously a positive cash flow, and the potential for plenty more, and shortcomings in production speed respond to the generous application of money. It takes money to make money, so spend it,keep your customers happy, and you will no doubt bring in more. This reeks of incompetence, or at least an aversion to risk that suggests a lack of business acumen.

Well, I took it completely apart, and found no cut or disconnected wires. I do have a multimeter, but the switches i was able to test had the appropriate continuity, or lack thereof, when pressed or released.

Hi ! I just recently bought a Warthog stick for $60, because it has some issues and I ended up getting a discount after I discovered them.Testing the stick in the device analyzer that's included in the script editor software, the only button that works is the first stage of the trigger, and when you press it, all 19 buttons are activated. I took the base off, and didn't see any obviously loose wires. I do have a multimeter, but no schematic. What I'm wondering is the best way to go about troubleshooting and repairing this, or at least figuring out if the problem is isolated in the gimbal, so that maybe I can at least salvage the grip and use it with a Virpil base. It also has a missing thumb (countermeasures) button, by the way, and I did write to TM almost a week ago, with no reply as of yet. Thank you !

Hi ! I just recently bought a Warthog stick for $60, because it has some issues and I ended up getting a discount after I discovered them.Testing the stick in the device analyzer that's included in the script editor software, the only button that works is the first stage of the trigger, and when you press it, all 19 buttons are activated. I took the base off, and didn't see any obviously loose wires. I do have a multimeter, but no schematic. What I'm wondering is the best way to go about troubleshooting and repairing this, or at least figuring out if the problem is isolated in the gimbal, so that maybe I can at least salvage the grip and use it with a Virpil base. It also has a missing thumb (countermeasures) button, by the way, and I did write to TM almost a week ago, with no reply as of yet. Thank you !

I think there's a way to load stuff like this into the kneeboard, if I'm not mistaken. Or, you could load it into either a laptop or smartphone (which is what I've been doing).

I just upgraded pretty much everything in my computer, and I'm looking for some guidance on settings. I can't seem to find any in the forum.

Well, I opened it up, and couldn't find any loose wires, and nothing I did had any impact on the problem. I was able to clean up the gimbal & apply new grease, which made it much smoother. The seller said that if I decided to keep it (I mentioned that I might be able to use the grip with a Virpil or FSSB base), he could give me most of my money back, which means I would get it for $60. What do you think? I'm wondering how I can figure out if I could still use the grip with a Mongoose base (or their other base, which seems to be currently available).

Well, I managed to fix the base, but now I find out that the only button that works is the trigger, and when i pull it, it activates all 19 buttons!

I'm not sure this is the best place for this, but it doesn't look like anyone goes into the TM threads very often, and I could really use a quick answer. I'll delete this after. Anyway, I bought a used TM Warthog stick on eBay for $125, but it's missing a thumb button, and also it came dissasembled from the base plate, and doesn't look like it wants to go back together. For some reason, the threaded standoffs are not in the gimbal anymore, and they're not going back in, even when I try to tap them back in. What am I doing wrong?

Check out this 1100-page book I got from Amazon for about $20 (from 2015). Just some random shots from the book.:

Sweet ! Amazon sells the Koolance stuff! I'm a student (a 50-year-old med student, lol), so I've got Amazon Prime. What components/brands would you get for a loop system, if you were me? Also, what's the best way to hook up the two push/pull PWM fans I have sandwiching the GPU's radiator? The wire coming out of the GPU water pump is a 2-wire, 3-pin female, so I would have to solder it to the fans, in parallel, to run them off that, but I also have a bunch of chassis fan headers, including a high-amperage one. Oh, by the way: I wrote to EVGA, asking them if these two blocks were compatible with my card (an EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 HYBRID GAMING (11G-P4-6698-KR) )-- https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-400-HC-5699-B1-Hydro-Copper-Water/dp/B07BZ4MYWC/ref=pd_sbs_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BZ4MYWC&pd_rd_r=e9a36462-b761-11e8-846c-b1864629fd27&pd_rd_w=pmVTd&pd_rd_wg=K0cBD&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=X850TGE8BW8X2KHVEETA&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=X850TGE8BW8X2KHVEETA https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-FC1080-FTW3-Waterblock-Nickel/dp/B07CVSL8W4/ref=pd_sbs_147_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CVSL8W4&pd_rd_r=e9a36462-b761-11e8-846c-b1864629fd27&pd_rd_w=pmVTd&pd_rd_wg=K0cBD&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=X850TGE8BW8X2KHVEETA&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=X850TGE8BW8X2KHVEETA

Damn ! That's actually a GREAT idea! I suppose it's just a matter of rigging up lots of hose, and maybe an extra pump or two as "repeaters". Even better; dunking the radiator(s) into a stream running by the house. No need for fans at all (except in the case, of course)!

"Did you ever think of the fact all that air that goes in has to come out also?" Yep; I'm not an idiot. The problem is that I've got 360mm worth of radiators that need to draw cool air in from outside the case. I had to decide between keeping the radiators cool (and, therefore, the CPU and GPU in a more direct fashion) and keeping the inside of the case cool while drawing warmer air through the radiator (and making the radiators, which are cooling the processors directly, less efficient in exchanging heat (via the radiator). I chose the former, in the absence of better information. As far as the remaining fan space; I've been trying to figure out whether blowing cool air in from the outside, while letting it passively vent out, would be more efficient than actively PULLING it out, and letting cool air be drawn in passively. It seemed to me at the time, that because there are gaping holes around the fans (some spaces can accomodate multiple fan sizes, which I think is a poor compromise. It seems like the manufacturer should have picked one size, and made the case more or less "air-tight" around the fans) that actively blowing air in might be the better choice, but I wasn't sure, which is why I posted here. I don't think this is quite as cut-and-dried as you're implying, and I don't think that the solution to this is a common-sense, "anyone can see that all you got to do..." one. I am, however, going to use the information from previous posts, and put the radiator in the front, and maybe the smaller one at the bottom or top-front. Only problem is figuring out what to do with all the drives.

Hi ! I just got done building the system listed below, and I was hoping that I could get help with the settings(graphics, for Oculus Rift), now that I upgraded from the FX-8350 and GTX-970 I used to have. I'm kind of new at this, so I apologize if this seems a little noob-ish. Thanks !