LASooner

Started printing some of the vertical side panels.

Got a bunch of the engraving done this weekend, and of course ruined the longest panel to print.

The switch caps? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0915RTQHX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The square caps and large barrel caps I printed on my resin printer Update, got most of the engraving done, going to have to reprint the engine start panel, the warning stripes burned through to the infill, tried to fix it with white sealant, but it looks like ass, so a do over. The inner ring of the TACAN concentric knob has to be reprinted, the tolerance was a little too tight, and the engraving was a bit off center. Still haven't painted the thumb wheels, so the vent air flow wheel is missing. I need to source some better volume knobs too.

Basically what snake said, your mileage may vary. I went with the hall effect pots and find that aspect to be great no issues there. Mounting is kind of a pain because there's not really any screw holes, just threaded resin and not like standardized for say a Warthog mount. The handles are smaller than they should be, but the throw of the throttles feels right, and my afterburner gate won't allow me to push through I do have to push them out to get into the zones. My wing sweep is not an axis but several leaf switches in the associated sweep degrees printed on the cover. It works for me, but in game the manual sweep visually jumps from each spot instead of smoothly moving because it's digital button presses. The wing sweep cover has a button press for up and down. And the base is back lit with a switch. The front buttons are pretty bad, the speed break is just a 2 way switch instead of a momentary, and initially my hat switches were analog thumb sticks wired to send a digital signal, ultimately that crapped out and he sent me some digital hat switches which have worked perfect. Mixed bag, can't recommend due to the cost, but I like mine and had stupid money to blow a few years back. If you get one, just know it's like something you'd get on Etsy. The guy at Throttletek acts like he has a bunch of guys working on these things, but it feels like a one man show. He was cool with me when I had to replace those hat switches, but I know some others on this board have had issues with him. As for my cockpit, I worked on a few things today

Got a little work done today. Laser engraved the Asym limiter and UHF panels. Sanded and clear coated the translucent resin print of the LED cover, used my Brother P-touch to print out the freq list label. Put my knobs on and mounted it in the side panel. I haven't yet programmed the arduino for the frequency LEDS but that will come after I get all the panels finished and functional. There's kind of a jankiness to the engraving that I sorta like, makes it look more used and worn. I'm definitely not going for factory fresh. null

It's the Throttletek one like Mumbles said Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

got the base panels done and started moving my electronics over, the top panels were going to be ready for engraving, but the clear coat cracked, so I'm going to have to sand and repaint, you can see I started on some of them already. There is to be faux wear and tear, but I want them clean for the engraving.

I got the base panels done and started moving my electronics over, the top panels were going to be ready for engraving, but the clear coat cracked, so I'm going to have to sand and repaint, you can see I started on some of them already. There is to be faux wear and tear, but I want them clean for the engraving.

That's not mine, the file's mine but I believe this is UXI's correct. If I decide to back light it later it will just be a matter of adding some LED's behind the panels. I've masked the lettering on the base layer and the back of the top plate is unpainted. I tested it with a couple LEDs and was happy with the result

I'm mounting my panels and throttles on a free standing box made of 2020 extrusion rails, it's wide enough and heavy enough it doesn't need to be attached to the desk to be a stable platform. I can tuck them away during the work day. obviously everybody's space limitations are different. I use Virpil mount for my upfront controls and joystick. Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

yes, I have the Lightburn files already done, and I've done some tests to get the settings for the etching and I think I have it where I want it to be. Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

Started printing out the right side panels this weekend, I had hoped to do some sanding and painting on the left side, but it was so stinkin hot. Currently printing the light control panel

Too hot to paint and sand this weekend, so I started printing out the right side panels.

Sanded and painted, throttle mounted, ready for panels.

Thanks man, I appreciate it.

While I understand the desire for HB to not want to spend effort in redoing the graphics when they could just be working on finishing the plane as it is, it would be nice if there was some mechanism in place that would allow user customizable textures that don't break integrity checks. Maybe that's an ED issue? Personally I play with the default textures as they are and I'm fine with it, but I feel like the players should be allowed to make their experience better, and changing cockpit textures shouldn't trigger integrity failures. What competitive advantage does changing the cockpit give you in multiplayer?

nullReady for painting parts and laser engraving

Oxygen Panel

UHF RADIO plates printed, checking the fitment of the 6 digit display I also reprinted the top plate for the TACAN

Started printing out my DZUS rail boxes on my Eglegoo Neptune 2S. It will be mounted on a 2020 extrusion box that I can move out of the way when I need to. Lost power during my throttle platform print, but it's already printed and ready. Functionally they work, aesthetically they look like ass, but I will be post processing the crap out of this. null Started with the TACAN panel, I'm still calibrating my printer so I may reprint this or just fill sand and paint.

If each panel and switches were skinned to a parent bone, they could apply a 1 frame animation that repositions each movable panel. The impact of 1 frame animations don't have much impact on memory or performance, We used to do this on PS2 and original XBox games for posed assets, so a modern PC should be able to handle it. Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

That's mine it's a fridge door switch, here's the link to my thread /topic/247738-vr-desk-mounted-crap-cat/ Sent from my Samsung Chromebook Plus using Tapatalk

Finished my ACM master arm cover

Master arm cover painted and switch cap installed. Not super accurate, but close enough for me. I did not go the route of making a switch for this cover as the built in bind to open cover and master arm on works good enough for this purpose. The ACM jett cover actually puts the weapons system in a specific state so I felt that one was necessary.

Cool, How sturdy is the filter pull in plastic?