VIXEN413

Hi all, Any news on the ACLS functionality for the hornet? Now that we are getting the SC, it would be awesome and fitting to get the ACLS working. So it goes with A/P coupling, link 4 page and new hud symbology. All infos are in NATOPS so it should be rather easy to model... I know the f18 road map is saying it's coming but when... Dunno. BR

Hey guys, Small updates... So, I ve been tinkering and decided, before shaping this throttle set out from the aluminium block, to mold in in Polyurethane resin. So I ve completed my shapes study and moved along to get a second PU FOAM model of the throttles. It sands easy and once I m happy, I just reinforce it with cyano glue. I also do corrections with bondo and once done will put some surface cuz I ll use that piece as a positive to make a silicon mold. The molded piece will be then cut to split both throttles and place the switches eand so on. Great crafting job too hehe I plan on to pour next week....

Hey there, Yes it might work but price is prohibitive still. I m checking for this one too: https://soda.crouzet.com/pn/?i=83459010 Need to get a quote on it. Unlucky so far I m also contemplating the idea of making a PUresin functional prototype... At least I can then see how I ll manage the space inside the handles....

Hey there, Off, awesome, thanks for the links! As for the 3d hats, I ll chime in in time, as I would like to set the project first. I connected with an ex colleague of mine that is doing a lot of micro electronic working. that's his passion, and I asked him for some help for programming and for the wiring part. also as he knows this things, he can locate parts and see what's required too... once I get the final picture I ll see what I do with the 3D shaped hats as It will depend on what kind of switch I use in the project... so first the transducer. Got a place to start with what u sent me. thanks... BR all, Vixen

That one, for a "C" hornet...

Hey guys, Thanks a lot for your answers and the great infos! Mapi, yes, that's what I based myself to take all the measurements. I still had uncertainties about some angle shapes. And thanks to K-lu photos, from top and bottom, I could cross check some angles and quotes that I was missing. So it will definitely make my life easyer hehehe If that's the one, it's mega hard to locate and buy... https://forceswitch.com/products Deadman, do you, by any chance, still have the link to those transducers and the post you were mentioning? Quite interested! Best regards all...

I stick to 442.74 and no issues there hopefully. Reading U guys I didn't upgrade further...

Hey there, Thanks for your answer... There are 3 hats on the side of the right throttle, one elongated that is for comm (communications: comm1 comm2, MIDS À and MIDSB) A 4 position then. The top one is counter mesures. 2 psn with center off. We can extend that to a 4 psn as I have 5way switched under the hood. The airbrake is also with it's own shape. Again, 3 psn with center off. If you look at the pics here from K-lu, you ll see how they look like. But that's for an earlyer version. I can find some more recent switch arrangement pics if it helps you hehe Best regards, Vixen

Hey Guys, I m still gathering some gear that I need for this project. I have the OTTO for the PB, I have 3x 5way switches that will cover my need for the airbrake, comms and countermeasure switches, all they need are proper shaped 3d hats (BTW, if you have info where I can locate those? Debolesti has some but not for hornet) Now, the big main thing will be the TDC. I can deal with an ALPS mini stick but I wanted something a bit more on the tough side... I also have an APEM NV mini stick with push but the issue is that it's switch based and thus, non proportional... for precision and to establish the analog axis, I ll need a potentiometer (hall type or else) Dunno, I tried moving the TDC with both a mini stick and a 5 way and there's no comparison, a mini stick is king. K-Lu, a quick question, the real TDC, is it moving or is it a force transducer ministick with push? Force transducers are a possibility too but mega hard to find, specially with push. I guess I ll have to stick with the ALPS but if you guys have other options you can think of..( not an OTTO of 700usd, it's not the idea of this project lol)... APEM has no monistic with push, OTTO is overpriced for this project... What other options do I have? BR

Yeah, OK. Indeed why not but still an f86. Like I said, many countries used the Streak, it was certainly more prolific and widely used... And quite a workhouse too, that Republic/Kelly Johnson design build like a tank on the legacy of the p47 and prefigurating the f105 Thud... Could be a great addition to our virtual hangar too...

Cold War scenarios with mig15, 17,19 facing f86. Nice but we could do with another Nato plane of the period... Why no love for the F84f then? After all, a very prolific plane used by a lot of countries in the world! And still in use in some cases in the mid 80's. Very capable A/G plane with strike and laps bombing possibilities! Why not after all? What s your take?

Right, Thanks and yes they do have a lot of switches and models Just like Mouser Electronics where I do my micro electronic shopping... But any idea on what components Thrustmaster is actually using for these 2 5 way switches? Opened up my stick and they looked like 2 different units as well... If I know the brand of these parts or the part number even at least I can start to look somewhere... BR

I saw multiple design, not only button head style or like you said for comm switch, some are with 2 psn others with 4. In the general shape, they are identical and following blueprints but maybe different manufacturers has done this part of the hornet trough it's life or if done in house by MDD/Boeing, they must have different molds/CAD files to come up to an identical result. It's subtle but sometimes theres a line here or a shape there that differs a bit... maybe the way to access to the internals might be different too. In the end, once installed and for use, it's exactly the same, beside, who cares... except a rivet counter hahaha like me... Got my OTTO's today.

If lock is dropped or ACM mode entered without locking anything, the indication is correct. When you lock a target in ACM, you ll get this indication bug.

When in ACM, a boxed "ACM" is indicated as normal on top of the radar screen, just under button 7. When a target is locked in ACM there's another text overwritten in same place. So it's like 2 words overlapping each other. Other word is not well defined but looks like "SIL" as it's the indication for radar silent while in Radar modes.. No track, I was in VR, will try to generate one but it's easy to reproduce, just go in the mission 1vs1 against su30, GACQ the target and see what's happening.

No improvement in VR, just the same as previous. Some fixes and improvements on the hornet but new weired issues. Will report in proper chat.

you can clearly see there, even looking from above, how the throttles are rotated 18 degrees to the left making it way more comfort for the wrist. the small cut at the bottom where the cage button is positioned is cut at 23 degrees as I computed, so that bit is actually almost parallel to the pilot leg. I ws just missing a few quotes here and there and by having your pics, I could confirm my modelling guesses, that is awesome!! Thanks a lot!!

Ooh waaaw, That's plain awesome Thanks bro! There are few iteration in the design too, and some confusion too with the super bug witch has also a slightelly different shaped throttle. I guess it's part of batch and subc on tractor specific maybe. Thanks a lot again.... Just got the block today. Need time to hit the belt sander and cuter tools that are not at home. Not easy with confinement...

I see what you mean... Money and availability is why a real f18 throttle is not possible hence the DIY project.. Winwing, for same reason, it s a whole kit but I just wanted the thrust levers. Plus shipping plus custom taxes... They said they were looking for distributors in other continent but nothing on that part for the time... Aah if only thrustmaster did the throttles too....

Firefox, bro ! The one in the movie with great old Clint!

Hey, Wouldnt it be cool if we could get a Firefox integrated with vaicom Pro st speek out loud In Russian to get our missile launch.? I imagine the face of my wife when I ll talk like that trough my VR. Hahaha epic...

Hey all, I wanted a good replica of oru beloved f/a 18 pair of throttles. Options are scarce so I had to come again to the old say that "you are only well served by yourself"... So, I ll build them. And carve them from a block of aluminium that I have lying around.... Doing this is not a big deal if you have a bit of équipement and skills. I ve been doing mechanics and crafting for a while as a hobby, so... I saw nothing that would not be possible. I took some plans that I found on the net, together with pictures and even a 3d photography scan that was posted here as well And, off we go... Plan is to mount it on my virpil CM2 throttle base and also to add the AB detent... Quite a program.... Did some plans and a 3d mockup with foam to validate them ans my angles. Some adjustments still required. For ex, the protective edge in front of the switches flares closer to the TDC unlike on my pic here, it's just because I still had the cardboard template in it...

Yeah, I made it work in the end going from safe to Gun is still a bit stiff but I can live with that. at least the button on the selector is functional. Still running strong after the mod .. As for the looks, well, it's quite a clean repair although it would be nice to be able to get the black plastic bell casing as a spare part to get it back to mint condition.... But the worn out look is fun to.... I opened all my Virpil stuff. Bases and throttle and always found great quality hardware in clean and well build fashion. I was very surprised by the difference I saw here in the build quality and internals. both stick halves are also glued together unlike other products, a lot of plastic shaffing inside and liberal use of hot glue compared to the chirurgical application I noticed on my CM2 throttle. SO I wonder if the VFX is not made by a sub contractor... Nonetheless, once I overcame all those issues, it's a fantastic piece of hardware and I love it the DLC wheel is fantastic, the selector has a look so typical of the tomcat and the trim china hat is very tactile and precise with center push. Really happy with it!! You see the filiation between this stick and previous technology so I fly f86 and mig 15 with that stick too. These were the days before a true hotas ergonomic concept... About your WArbrd bases, one of mine was trouble free from start. the second one came with the cable routing arranged in a different way. It looked to me that it could create issues so, and since I was changing for the stronger springs and cams, I also unplugged it and route it like in my other base. Full control washout shows no excessive bent or pinching but you might have a look at it before going any further with the base. Rerouting also got me back more slack in the cable so less stress. I m done with the over G in the tomcat thanks to that base with it's stiff spring and aero hard cams it's really a pleasure to fly... Enjoy

Hey all, just wondering if anybody knows where to get these 2 5-way switches who does it for Thrustmaster/ Guillemot? any place to get those? Thanks in advance, Best regards VIxen

I took appart my WarBRD multiple times to change cams, springs and whatnot... ANY thrustmaster stick works with the base. With or without the 2 screws, the base is fully functional. If you take the screws out, you have more then enough cable lenght inside so you are NOT going to create any issue to remove these screws. With screws, your stick is mountable in only 1 position Without screws, you can mount it with an angle. My f/a 18 is rotated 15deg left just like in the plane. Whe you screw the tightening nut of a thrustmaster stick to the base, the nut goes fully screwed but the male plug is not in firm contact with the stick metal piece soon top of the lid, you can glue a tiny elastic cut to lenght to match the circumference in order to shim it. Then, added friction and no more twisting....