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walker450

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Everything posted by walker450

  1. CAROL: TEST.LUA Viewports = { Center = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 1680; height = 1050; viewDx = 0; viewDy = 0; 1.6; } } Shkval = { x = 2480; y = 0; width = 800; height = 600; }
  2. I'll post pics and video when time allows. Machinegun has some pics to post too.
  3. Just got home and unpacked a few hours ago. I had a great time! Can't wait till next year!
  4. It's getting close.... I'll happily pay $30. And if that is only enough to break even, i think they should raise it more. I think these developers need a pat on the back. (just my 2 cents)
  5. Great pics! Thanks for sharing!
  6. I also fly in RL and I have never thought this game seemed too slow. But we all interpret things differently. :) About the grass, will it be released with DCS: A-10C?
  7. I've been experimenting with it a little more... For regular flying, turning the flight director on (button lights up) makes it work better. The controls won't fight you back. However, the dampening is still in effect. I am going to redo the base soon. The wood screws are starting to loosen up so it's not nearly as precise. Version 2 will use a metal base with metal bolts coming up to attach the dampers to.
  8. LOL this reminds me of the Stig on Top Gear... Racing around the track like a maniac but listening to some classical music hehehe. I love that show. :)
  9. What kind of plane is this? I don't think I've ever seen it...
  10. I land like topdog. I come in like crazy and whip it around to bleed off speed and set it down. :) I can do a nice and slow hover landing but I normally don't have that much patience or desire to do it. I do enjoy performing fast rolling landings when at airfields... Its fun trying to make the helicopter land like a plane. :pilotfly:
  11. http://Http://www.Overclock.net A ton of info on those forums.
  12. I have vista 64 and mine does it sometimes (tir4). I still haven't figured it out. I seem to think it's a USB issue. I have lots of stuff plugged into my computer. But, at least it doesn't do it all the time...
  13. Dave, do you play FSX? Whether yes or no, there is a good read here: http://www.simforums.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=29041 I understand that at time likes this, it can be easy to overload your self with reading material. The link above is a must-read for sure. And to further complicate issues, :) , SSDs are quite nice. I have FSX loaded on one and it loads insanely fast and I have no issues with stuttering that some people report with other drives. I have everything else on a 150GB 10,000 Velociraptor and it's very fast. So my opinion is get a good vrap, maybe an SSD, and then just whatever for storage (green, black, magenta...?) Yet another option is pci SSD drives. Iofusion is one such company that makes them. OCD also has some that are bootable. But they are $700+.... :(
  14. /\ What he said... :) I have an Antec 1200 and can't imagine going to a smaller case.
  15. I understand and agree. I am still learning how all the system interact. I haven't had a lot of stick time lately, but when I get some more time I'll update the post accordingly. I have been flying without the heading hold engaged until I get to a target area. I'll then turn it on and let the auto turn/shkval do the work. I know this is a crude description. I kind of jumped into this whole thing before doing my homework. :) Thanks for all of the discussion guys!
  16. As far as trimming goes, this is an area I am still experimenting with. I picked a bad title for this post, because it really doesn't eliminate trimming altogether. How do I change the main subject line?
  17. I just downloaded VAP and set up a few commands. It's defenitely a keeper!! :)
  18. Glad to see someone else get one!! I will update my map when I get time. I still haven't installed the mapping software. Right now I don't need the chance of anything else not working lol.
  19. I knew this question would come up. :) It is nice to use in conjunction with a keyboard. I can easily, and without looking, perform 50+ functions using the speedpad. The keys are laid out to make it easier to navigate them without looking. They are not all the same height like a normal keyboard that is made for typing. And as a bonus, it looks cool on my desk. :thumbup:
  20. I ride it all. :) Here are some pics and videos from our practice track: http://s227.photobucket.com/albums/dd123/walker04rr/daves/
  21. Here is a video of me from our last dune trip: [YOUTUBE] <object width="873" height="525"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="873" height="525"></embed></object> [/YOUTUBE] All videos here: Drew's December 2009 Little Sahara Youtube Playlist:
  22. I am using Vista 64. It should work in Win 7 just the same. :) I have mapped more buttons to it also. I will post an updated map soon.
  23. I put together a prototype this morning. It is quite crude but I want to try this out for a while before building a nicer mount. The permanent one will be painter black and be adjustable.
  24. I had this idea and started researching it... I found that a few other people have done it so here is a little description to help others. My original thread on this is here: Joystick Spring Removal and Modding I removed the centering spring and added dampers on my Saitek ST290. This holds the stick in place where I leave it and eliminates the need to trim the cyclic. The ability is still there, but it is not necessary. I simply cut the spring into small pieces with wire cutters (be careful, the pieces shoot off violently), then cut the centering disc into pieces to remove it. I originally added electrical, then later duck tape to the ball of the joystick. This worked relatively well, but had areas of different resistance. So I decided to add small hydraulic dampers to keep the stick in place... I simply ran a piece of electrical wire around the joystick and through the damper holes, then used a hose clamp to tighten the wire to the joystick. The other end of the dampers are held with regular wood screws. I bought the dampers at a local hobby shop. They are meant for a small RC car suspension and come as a "shock replacement" kit. The cost was approximately $15. They are sold many places online. The trick is to not fill them completely full of oil, or they extend back out when compressed. (and do not use the springs of course...) Click here for an article on filling the shocks with oil. Here are some pics and videos: Mine: Unknown: (if this is yours, please let me know so I can give credit) And the videos: [YOUTUBE] <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> [/YOUTUBE] [YOUTUBE] <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> [/YOUTUBE] [YOUTUBE] <object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value=" name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object> [/YOUTUBE] This works very well and I highly encourage people to try it!! Thanks for looking!
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