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Posted

Right now im planning on using a 27", because that is the only monitor i can see that have the proper height, so it wont stick up in the top, and only stick down a little in the bottom.

 

The only problem there is with this, is that its not 100% wide enough. Of course the Flap, hydraulic and Fuel Gauge need to be real instrument no matter what, since they are outside the screen.

But when you use a 27" you are loosing 6mm width on each MFCD, and that is 6mm on the left side on the left MFCD, and 6mm on the right side of the right MFCD.

 

Of course im working on a better solution, but this is the cheapest way to do it, without loosing too much. You could also move the 27" in that way so i covers the complete Right MFCD, that way you are losing 12mm on the left, but then fit a smaller LCD display to the left MFCD, and that can be milled out on the back of the MIP, so that it sits in front of the 27".

 

There will of course be a little depth difrence on the 2 MFCD, but i doubt you will see it, this way you have used 2 Graphic outputs..... and if you dont have that, a USB Graphic card can be the solution.

 

Now you think that a 28" might solve the problem, and your right... its wide enough, but its also much taller, which means that it will stick up over the glareshield, AND its problaly so wide that is going to colide with the Landing Gear Lever.

 

But as i mentioned i will work on a better solution, like the UHF and Digital clock can have their own Electronics in them, driven by DCS BIOS.

I will show pictures soon with my MIP ontop of my 27", and from there also better solutions as i get the thing build up :) i hope that covered your answer, but i am working on a way, so that no display should be visible from the outside.... that would be the best :)

 

And yes, the 27" will stick a little bit down from the MIP, but i intend to make Air Valves, like the real A-10C has, and of course they need to work, so that should cover the rest of the monitor.

 

Happy Newyear.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

I havent purchased a 29" to test no, but i have tryed to measure with some 29" models, and i seem to remember that it was so wide, that it was visible on the top at each side of the MIP, and also was in the way for the Landing Gear Lever.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

Hey Lynx, I was thinking I might have to try and find an older monitor that was still in the 4:3 format. That way it might cut down on it being too wide. Also, are you taking off the bezels and back? Sometimes by just doing that you can lose up to an inch on the sides and top. Just a thought...

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

Posted (edited)

I have not measured the bezels and the backs, its only the visible instruments and the MFCD.

 

But your right, there might be a better solution by using older 4:3 or 5:4 computer monitors, i will try to look into that :)

 

For those who want to make their own panels for the glareshield, here is the blueprints, in 1:1 so they can be printed and cut out.

 

External Stores Jettison Panel:

http://lynx.dk/blueprints/A-10C%20Ext.%20Stores%20Jettison%20Panel%20Printable v.1.0.pdf

 

Fire Extinguisher Panel

http://lynx.dk/blueprints/A-10C%20Fire%20Ext.%20Panel%20Printable v.1.0.pdf

 

And they can Of Course be found under Blueprints on my web:

http://lynx.dk/downloads/

Edited by LynxDK

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted
Hey Lynx, I was thinking I might have to try and find an older monitor that was still in the 4:3 format. That way it might cut down on it being too wide. Also, are you taking off the bezels and back? Sometimes by just doing that you can lose up to an inch on the sides and top. Just a thought...

 

I was after a T shaped monitor for a Eurofighter cockpit I have in mind!! :D

Posted

Ha, yeah that would be pretty cool. I think there were someone on here earlier that was going to try using rear projection for their panel. Don't know how that ever turned out.

 

As far as the items available now, it looks like Lynx is the man! Lynx, I've got a large order for you, so be expecting a PM. I'm getting excited knowing that I can finally make progress on my pit. I know a lot of this stuff usually winds up as vaporware, so it's exciting to see it actually being offered. :)

 

 

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Now that i got the right Dimensions for all the panels, i had to redo what i allready made, and since the Engine Cluster was one of the first things i showed you people in this thread, its also the first Panel i have ready for sale.

 

So here it is, in diferent "kits" to suit the difrent needs outthere.

 

lx02_1.JPG

 

lx02_2.JPG

 

lx02_3.JPG

 

lx02_4.JPG

 

This is obviously for Glass cockpits, running Helios or other Monitor based Instruments.

 

Im making a new thread in the for sale section, where i will add the diferent packages, with all the prices and pictures.

 

But the prices for this panel starts at 407 DKK for the simple Panel with only screws , and ends at 789 DKK for the complete pack with gauge rings, instrument glass and lamps.

 

And of course the lamps support installation of small 1,8MM Green LED's for those who want that. a DIY package with those LED's, will also be offered at some point.

 

The 3D printed rings, and the Glass inserts, all fits tight into the panel, with no glueing or other fastening methods nessesary. If someone want to glue them in place, its totally up to the buyer.

 

The holes in the Panel are also made to fit Real 2" instruments from the A-10, all the screw positions and the holes are made to work with the original bracket for installing them too.

But since this is made of acrylic, i cannot guarantee that it will support the total weight of all those instruments, since i dont have them all to test it. But if they could get supported behind the panel, i dont see a problem.

 

The panel comes unassembled.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

I don't like to be pushy, but is there any progress with the UFC at all?

Rig: Asus TUF GAMING B650-PLUS; Ryzen 7800X3D ; 64GB DDR5 5600; RTX 4080; VPC T50 CM2 HOTAS;

Pimax Crystal Light

I'm learning to fly - but I ain't got wings

With my head in VR - it's the next best thing!

Posted

Nothing Pushy about asking progression questions :)

 

And yes its been a while since ive showing anything about the UFC.

 

The project is not a stand still, but i have been forced to wait with that one, because of the problems i had with the old CNC machine, made it impossible for me to make PCB's, as the machine suddenly moved in different directions.

 

Now i have the new machine allmost setup, and the beauty of this new one is, that it has automatic Tool Change. And i hope very much to get the last parts for that in the next week or so, because that means that i can make PCB's fast, without spending time on changing tools etc.

 

So the UFC progress has come to perfecting the PCB, and i have been doing some testing on the Backlight and switch positions, which i must say isnt as it should be yet. It will take a little more testing before its right. So how long it will take i cant say for sure, but i can say that my partner is working on the PCB / Arduino atm, so its in the works. :)

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

Thanks for the update. :thumbup:

 

The wonders of modern technology - I used to really dislike making PCBs for my home-built amateur radio projects. Etching is horrible!

Rig: Asus TUF GAMING B650-PLUS; Ryzen 7800X3D ; 64GB DDR5 5600; RTX 4080; VPC T50 CM2 HOTAS;

Pimax Crystal Light

I'm learning to fly - but I ain't got wings

With my head in VR - it's the next best thing!

Posted

Yea, i follow you :)

 

Hopefully this will be much faster and easier :)

 

The status right now is that to get room for everything on the PCB's we have bought equipment so we can solder SMD Components.

 

That can be a problem for those who want to buy a PCB "kit" and solder it themself, Alltho not impossible. And we are using the biggest of the SMD's we can get. But the truth is that there is so many connections and components and very little space, and that make things abit more challenging :)

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

Hooray, progression. I check this paticular forum post twice every single day. I'm one of those waiting for everything to be done so I can buy everything at the same time but updates like this make me drool and itchy. Haha. Keep up the good work. I Always look forward to updates.

Posted

Thank you all :)

 

Well since you ask, i will show you a couple of Pictures.

 

lx02_p1.JPG

 

lx02_p2.JPG

 

lx02_p3.JPG

 

So the short answer is yes, we are planning on making a stepper motor pack, with dial plates which can be screwed on the back of the existing Engine Cluster panel.

 

We intend to do that with all our panels/instruments, so if people who buy the panels for mounting in front of a monitor, and then suddenly decides they want real instruments, they can easily upgrade, without buying new panel fronts, since they can use what they allready have.

 

We try make it most cost effective for everyone.

 

And of course, as the last picture indicate, they will be backlit :).

 

I hope that answered your question.

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted

Fantastic! Even though I have many of the original instruments, this seems like it may be one of the best solutions. I haven't the first clue yet on converting them, so this looks like it may be just the thing! Thanks!

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

Posted

Excellent work.

Can you show some additional detail on the lamp posts?

Are they fixed or can they rotate?

Are they hollowed out for the LED and wiring?

Posted (edited)

Absolutely.

 

I think i showed pictures of that earlier in this post, but i have made some changes since, and i dont believe i showed the installation of LED's yet.

 

Here is a couple of pictures i took just now, and yes, they can rotate.

 

As you can see in the base here, there is a hole for the Screw to mount it, and a Wider hole for the LED. All of the prints are printed in 0.15mm layer height, which is very easy to see when i show fotos this close this big :).

lamp_1.JPG

 

lamp_2.JPG

 

At the bottom of the Lamp Head there is also a hole, which fits the "pin" on top of the base.

lamp_3.JPG

 

The LED's i have used is 1,8mm Green LED's, which fits into the base. I would recommend using insulation tubes on one or both connections, and there is plenty of room for that.

lamp_4.JPG

 

Give the LED a little bend at the top, and press the head over the base.

lamp_5.JPG

 

lamp_6.JPG

 

Hope this gave you some idea how it works, i will at some point show pictures where its installed and ready....

Edited by LynxDK

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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Posted (edited)

Here is a couple of Pictures showing the Engine cluster with a real Instrument in it, to show that they fits just like they should. for those who want to use those.

And the holes are matching the screw positions on the clip too.

 

cluster_instrument_1.JPG

 

cluster_instrument_2.JPG

 

cluster_instrument_3.JPG

Edited by LynxDK

Regards.

LynxDK

 

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