Captain Orso Posted June 21, 2016 Posted June 21, 2016 FYI 8< -same 12mm hole, 20mm pole switch http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/100SP3T8B13M1QE/100SP3T8B13M1QE-ND/3777894 8< With regards to Digi-Key outside the US, if you look in the upper right hand corner, has a nifty little "Change Country" button. Behind it you will find that Digi-Key has representation in a whole bunch of countries, including *ahem* Hrvatski ;) 1 When you hit the wrong button on take-off System Specs. Spoiler System board: MSI X670E ACE Memory: 64GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Ripjaw System disk: Crucial P5 M.2 2TB CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D PSU: Corsair HX1200 PSU Monitor: ASUS MG279Q, 27" CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S Graphics card: MSI RTX 3090Ti SuprimX VR: Oculus Rift CV1
Immmer Posted April 2, 2017 Posted April 2, 2017 You can find this switch here: https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&pa=21910&productId=21910 or just type in google mts-103 switch
mx22 Posted April 24, 2017 Posted April 24, 2017 So my pinky switch just went south too - still works on forward click, but back click is gone. Is Digikey link still the way to go for the replacement? Anyone has a disassembly tutorial on this one? Thanks!
Sydy Posted July 26, 2017 Posted July 26, 2017 Hi Guys, I am another one which pinky switch went dead! Contact TM and waiting for the reply. Lookinf forward to hear about a new "upgrade kit". Sydy
raymondabel Posted October 30, 2017 Posted October 30, 2017 I am another one which pinky switch went dead! I will get a new swict but intil then. Is their ant "step by step" procedure to how to change it? Thanks Ray
raymondabel Posted November 1, 2017 Posted November 1, 2017 exect same request... So my pinky switch just went south too - still works on forward click, but back click is gone. Is Digikey link still the way to go for the replacement? Anyone has a disassembly tutorial on this one? Thanks! exect same request... Ray
raymondabel Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 i JUST GOT A REPLY FROM tHRUSTMASTER Part is avalable in FRANCE warehouse. to get the piecce it will be 19.20 EURO + 22 EURO for transport to Canada.... Also, I got a well done step by step procedure in color
Sokol1_br Posted November 2, 2017 Posted November 2, 2017 WOW! That switch can be low in quality, but in price... :D
todd022 Posted December 4, 2017 Posted December 4, 2017 Alright, mine crapped out. Ray...where are these step-by-step color instructions?? [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
uscstaylor Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 Yup me too Mine went yesterday. Please post instructions for us thanks
Captain Orso Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 JEEEzus!! Nearly $50 for a single tiny switch. I'm 100% certain you can find a viable replacement in the US for half the price, less wait, and no issues with customs. My switch is kind of wobbly, and so I started to look around for a replacement. There are lots of them, in every quality class, from military grade for about $250 for a single switch, to something like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/grayhill-inc/34ASP38T7M3RT/34ASP38T7M3RT-ND/2678815 I took my throttle apart to get the specs of the switch. This is what I found: Mounting hole diameter: 11.98mm Shaft of switch diameter: 11.70mm Length of bat: 17mm The rating of the switch is (printed on the switch): 3A250VAC <== 3 ampere, 250 VAC 6A125VAC <== 6 ampere, 125 VAC This is also printed on the switch, and is probably a product code from the manufacturer. MTS-I or MTS-1 It's a SPDT switch: Single Pole Double Throw, which means it has 3 lead-ins, one for the signal-in, and two for signal-out, only one of which can be active at a time. The replacement does not have to be identical. It has to be SPDT, have a shaft less than 11.98 mm in diameter, but not too much smaller, but many are the same size, because TM is buying standard switches that the can buy in bulk, like 1000 at a time to get the discount for bulk purchases, and have the correct rating, which I don't think you can even get under, because the throttle is USB powered, which means 3 volt DC and 1 ampere at the most, and no switches I saw even go near that low. You can have a longer or sorter bat (the actual part you push), round or flat, with a plastic hat or naked, what ever suits your taste. But sending off to France and paying $50, just because Thrustmaster bought it first... :doh: When you hit the wrong button on take-off System Specs. Spoiler System board: MSI X670E ACE Memory: 64GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Ripjaw System disk: Crucial P5 M.2 2TB CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D PSU: Corsair HX1200 PSU Monitor: ASUS MG279Q, 27" CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S Graphics card: MSI RTX 3090Ti SuprimX VR: Oculus Rift CV1
hansangb Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 i JUST GOT A REPLY FROM tHRUSTMASTER Part is avalable in FRANCE warehouse. to get the piecce it will be 19.20 EURO + 22 EURO for transport to Canada.... Also, I got a well done step by step procedure in color If you post it, others who find themselves in the same boat can benefit from it. hsb HW Spec in Spoiler --- i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1
uscstaylor Posted December 11, 2017 Posted December 11, 2017 If you guys find a replacement please post it here Id love to fix this thing.
Captain Orso Posted January 8, 2018 Posted January 8, 2018 (edited) If you guys find a replacement please post it here Id love to fix this thing. I picked up a couple of these switches not long ago, but only just got around to using one to replace the Pinky Switch on my TM HOTAS Throttle last weekend, because the original simply gave out. E-Switch 100SP3T The bushing threads are listed as 15/32" and I measure 11.68-11.69mm. The flat nuts (there's one on the inside too) fit perfectly. The short and sweet of it is that it works great, and is better than the original when it was new. Much solider feel to it and still as easy to flip. Price was €2.85 each, but shipping and handling was €22.88. Since €22.88 is I think over the actual shipping costs, I imagine most of that is handling; that is, since 2 switches cost only €5.70, they would make a loss to simply send somebody into the warehouse to pick up the switches and package them and mail them, if they didn't add on some handling costs. Anyway, this is the switch Tools you will need are: Needle nose soldering iron Fine solder, probably not more that about 0.5 mm in diamter Phillips screw driver size 1 or 1.5 Needle nose pliers A black felt tip pen Having a soldering station with hands to hold the switch and wires and possibly a magnifying glass for when your are soldering will be a great advantage The first thing you'll want to do is use the needle nose pliers to start unscrewing the flat nut from the switch bushing. After a couple turns you can use your fingers. Then you use the Phillips screw driver to remove both screws from the opposite side. They are both identical and just shy of the width of the lever handle. They will probably not come out enough to remove them at once. This is okay. You and push them out from the inside once the face plate has been removed. Lift off the face place in the direction of the switch, carefully as to not allow it to jump out of its fitting, so as to not damage the wires to the switch. They are not terribly long and very fine. If the screws are still in their holes, push them out far enough to grasp them from the outside, remove them, and put them aside. Inside the Throttle Lever Handle you will find two posts, which the screws went through. Now that the screws are absent, these posts have fallen to the floor of the Handle. Remove these and put them aside with the screws. Now push the switch inwards from the outside, as it is now only held in place by friction. Put the face plate aside. Unscrew the second flat nut from the switch bushing and put it aside. There are three wires attached tot he switch, a black and two reds--at least I think they are both red, as I am red-green colorblind. Use the felt tip pen to mark the red outside wire to differentiate it from the inside wire. Right where the wires are attached to the switch, they are coated thickly with what appears to be hot glue. Carefully remove it and dispose of it, without damaging the wires. The switch has a slot in one side. Note that the black wire is opposite the slot, and the wire we marked with the felt tip pen is on the side with the slot. Use the soldiering iron to unsolder the wires, one after the other. Put the old switch aside. READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL THE STEPS ABOUT SOLDERING, BEFORE CONTINUING FURTHER. OTHERWISE YOU RISK DAMAGING THE NEW SWITCH. Insure your soldering iron is hot enough to melt the solder quickly, by touching the end of your solder thread to the tip of the iron. If it melts practically immediately, it's hot enough. Solder the wires onto the new switch, insuring the black wire is away from the slot and the marked wire next to it. Hold the wire to the connection, touch the connection with iron and hold the solder thread against the tip of the iron so that the solder immediately melts and floods the connection and wire just enough to bind them together. Immediately remove the iron once the solder has melted, so as not to allow the connection to heat up too much and melt the plastic housing. Repeat these steps for each wire. The switch is now attached to the throttle. Now all we have to do is put everything back in the same order as we took it apart. Screw the first flat nut onto the switch bushing. It should not be turned in tight. It needs some play still. Slide the switch into the face plate so that the bushing slot fits to the tongue. You may need to turn the flat nut a little in or out to allow for its corners to match the corner notches. Once the switch is seating into the face plate, screw the other flat nut onto the bushing and screw it in as far as possible using only finger. Now use the needle nose pliers to turn the flat nut in the rest of the way and tight slightly (finger tight) more is not necessary. Slide the screws into the handle from the outside and slide the posts--wide side outwards--over the screws. Seat the face plate so that the openings on the posts, which are now on the screws, match up with the screw holes on the inside of the face plate. Tighten the screws down just a little more than finger tight. -- That's it! Hook the throttle up as usual and off you go. EDIT: Had to re-upload illstrations. Edited January 10, 2018 by Captain Orso When you hit the wrong button on take-off System Specs. Spoiler System board: MSI X670E ACE Memory: 64GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Ripjaw System disk: Crucial P5 M.2 2TB CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D PSU: Corsair HX1200 PSU Monitor: ASUS MG279Q, 27" CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S Graphics card: MSI RTX 3090Ti SuprimX VR: Oculus Rift CV1
jimcarrel Posted January 10, 2018 Posted January 10, 2018 Thanks Capt' Orso, I ordered 3 (just in case) Win 10 64 bit Intel I-7 7700K 32GB Ram Nvidia Geforce GTX 1060 6gig
uscstaylor Posted January 10, 2018 Posted January 10, 2018 My problem is not the pinkie switch on the throttle its the pinkie lever sensor on the joystick, the grey round button type behind the lever the pinkie rests on....Does anyone know where to get a replacement from
Sokol1_br Posted January 11, 2018 Posted January 11, 2018 My problem is not the pinkie switch on the throttle its the pinkie lever sensor on the joystick, the grey round button type behind the lever the pinkie rests on....Does anyone know where to get a replacement from Your issue is an different case, look there: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=137291 If are not used to DIY, contact Thrutsmaster for buy replacement. You need replacement for button # four - see on page 4: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/hotas/manual/hotas_warthog/hotas_warthog_manual_v1.pdf
Sokol1_br Posted January 13, 2018 Posted January 13, 2018 Anyway you can use OTTO P1-1 buttons in Warthog grip - if their high price is not an issue. :D https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3240303&postcount=495 Not sure if is the same model used by Debolestis in above topic. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Otto-Pushbutton-Switch-P1-11111/202141417125?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47301%26meid%3D4add0980dfc942079f0b1dffe3cdb0e9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D131720781628&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 https://www.ebay.com/itm/OTTO-Pushbutton-switches-MS25089-4AR-P1-12421/131720781628?epid=805604997&hash=item1eab2b9f3c:g:uvYAAOSwL7VWtNUJ&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Button-Switch-Style-G-Sldr-Std-Red-Button-MOM-2CKT-NEW-1PC-OTTO-P1-71621W/252859849528?hash=item3adf9f1b38:g:TjsAAOSwrddY7db~ Mouser sell OTTO.
Leostra Posted January 11, 2019 Posted January 11, 2019 Just noticed that my pinky switch failed too after only 1 month. THIS seems to be an ongoing issue with this unit.
stuart4544 Posted January 13, 2019 Posted January 13, 2019 Just replaced my pinky switch. This is the correct operation and fit. Might be UK/EU only supplyer. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7347139/
mc_smile Posted March 12, 2019 Posted March 12, 2019 Thanks, Captain Orso for this wonderful guide! Took me about 30 minutes and new switch works like a charm. Just have to be extremely careful with the wiring: almost broke one of them when soldering a new switch. It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice © Scooter Intel Core i7 8700K, Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5, 32Gb DDR4 CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 3200MHz, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080Ti Extreme, VKB Gunfighter MkII + TM HOTAS Warthog + TM MFD Panels, TrackIR5
Arctander Posted March 15, 2019 Posted March 15, 2019 Just replaced my pinky switch. This is the correct operation and fit. Might be UK/EU only supplyer. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7347139/ Can confirm! :-) Just fixed mine too! And I'm a normal non-electronic whiz. It's fiddly though! Luckily I have one of these for my modelling: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fityle-Auxiliary-Magnifier-Magnifying-Embroidery/dp/B07KCWR8Z7/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1552639624&sr=8-10&keywords=modelling+magnifier+and+stand Made it SO much easier!
1Cyclone Posted March 26, 2019 Posted March 26, 2019 Immmer that is not the correct size, way to small! But yes it would work if you can figure out how to mount it????
Raisuli Posted March 27, 2019 Posted March 27, 2019 I'm actually looking for a 'dead' Warthog throttle (though any split throttle would probably work). Planning on some mods, but I don't want to stop flying while I do it. If anyone knows where there's a bricked throttle let me know.
streakeagle Posted April 17, 2019 Posted April 17, 2019 This thread just saved me a bunch of time and money. I just finished fixing my original "bricked" throttle and somehow broke the pinky switch on the newer replacement I bought because I the board I needed was out of stock when the first throttle failed. So I got 3 switches: 1 to fix the broken one and a spare for each throttle :) [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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