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CH flightstick


DSR_T-800
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I'm about to order this stick over the X-55 and Thrust master Warthog. Before I order it, can someone tell me the resolution of this stick? I'm upgrading from a Saitek Fly 5 and one of my biggest concerns is the lack of precise movements I can make with this stick. For example my stick has a resolution of (32703 x 32703). Honestly I'm not even sure if that's the true resolution or the game limitation of Aces High. Warthog has 16-bit precision (65536 x 65536 values). The X-55 is also a 16-bit stick. I couldn't find my stick resolution anywhere on the internet, so I used the method of downloading Aces High. Practice offline>Options>Controls>Map Controls.

 

Thanks.


Edited by DSR_T-800
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You mean the movement scale is 256 in each axis, right? (because 256^2=65536)

 

I have a CH from 1999 (one of the first usb) and the movement of each is axis is 256.

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CH joysticks use a USB controller with 8 bits (256 points of resolution).

 

The CH F-16 Fighterstick is from end of 90's - at time gameport - received the USB controller around 2000/2001.

For today standard one can say that use a "obsolete" USB 1.1 8 bits controller...

 

To know the real resolution of any joystick use the JoyTester2 (download on this topic):

 

https://forum.warthunder.com/index.php?/topic/38747-how-to-quickly-check-joystick-functionality-buying-used/#entry485945

 

BTW - Warthog and T.16000M despite advertised as "16000" use a sensor that has 12 bits output (probable is the same in X-55):

 

http://www.melexis.com/Hall-Effect-Sensor-ICs/Triaxis%C2%AE-Hall-ICs/Triaxis%E2%84%A2-3D-Joystick-Position-Sensor-648.aspx

 

Anyway with anything above 12 bits your hands is not able to detect differences, this if the joystick gimbal mechanism was done be Swiss watchmakers. :)

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The "bits" is translated in (possible) points of resolution - I think is this:

 

7 bits = 128 (some "no name" 'sticks)

8 bits = 256 (CH)

9 bits = 512 (MS Precision PRO)

10 bits = 1024 (X-52 PRO, MS FF2, Tm Hotas X, Saitek Pedals, Cobra M5)

11 bits = 2048 (X-52, VKB T-Rudder)

12 bits = 4096 (VKB, MFG Crosswind (11 on brakes), Slaw Pedal)

13 bits = 8192

14 bits = 16384

15 bits = 32768 (X-55)

16 bits = 65536 (Warthog, T.16000M)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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256 bits is enough for most planes and tasks but for example hovering Huey using linear map will be wobbly. 256 bits with CH stick length is just at the edge of being discernible by muscle sense and with lots of practice you start to notice the bits changing. I would say that 10 bits is enough to surpass your physiology (at least in my case).

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Currently I'm using a Satiek Fly 5, will i notice a difference if I buy a CH fighterstick? My current stick is crap and is degrading. All I'm looking for is for the stick to be able to make more precise movements. Something that is so precise that I don't need to set a curve for. The X-52 and X-55 are unreliable(from varies reviews) just like my Fly 5. I've heard terrible things about the X-55, so that isn't even an option. I've also heard some terrible things about the X-52. I'm looking for a well built stick that is going to last. I'm not interested in the Warthog because of its insane price and heavy spring. I'm looking for a mid-range stick and the only thing I can find on the market that is good is the CH Products which are from the damn 90s. There is literally nothing to buy other than the warthog.

 

 

This is my stick

 

http://i.imgur.com/SbJn0QR.png


Edited by DSR_T-800
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Your joystick have 10 bits controller, but looks like the pot' are bad.

 

Why you don't try MOD replacing the low cost pot with HALL sensor?

Is cheap and (relatively) easy to do:

 

http://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html

 

http://il2.skyline.kh.ua/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=176

 

Or maybe try the Tm T.1600M, is the only low cost stick' with HALL sensor (in true Cobra M-5 have, but is not properly available), has his issues (like all stick's) but have good cost/benefit.

 

Or buy the CH Fighterstick, latter replace this pot's for some these new sensors like Komaroff RAMS and compatible USB sensor, VKB MaRS+Njoy32 or MMSENS+MMJoy - only for handle the axis in 12 bits, leave the buttons connected to original CH controller for use the CH programmability.

 

I've heard terrible things about the X-55, so that isn't even an option.

 

The most complains I see about X-55 is relative to his software - thing dispensable in most of actual games.

 

And for some people is "don't be a 200$ Warthog". :)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Your joystick have 10 bits controller, but looks like the pot' are bad.

 

Why you don't try MOD replacing the low cost pot with HALL sensor?

Is cheap and (relatively) easy to do:

 

http://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html

 

http://il2.skyline.kh.ua/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=176

 

Or maybe try the Tm T.1600M, is the only low cost stick' with HALL sensor (in true Cobra M-5 have, but is not properly available), has his issues (like all stick's) but have good cost/benefit.

 

Or buy the CH Fighterstick, latter replace this pot's for some these new sensors like Komaroff RAMS and compatible USB sensor, VKB MaRS+Njoy32 or MMSENS+MMJoy - only for handle the axis in 12 bits, leave the buttons connected to original CH controller for use the CH programmability.

 

 

 

The most complains I see about X-55 is relative to his software - thing dispensable in most of actual games.

 

And for some people is "don't be a 200$ Warthog". :)

 

That doesn't look very easy to me xD. Is there any video?

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I splashed out on the CH Fighter Stick (+ throttle + pedals) last Christmas, and like you I was concerned about how much better these expensive things could be than my venerable X52... All I can say from my experience is that the CH joystick is amazing! I instantly found that flying the Huey was easier for me, as I was able to be much more precise. The stick has a very light feel to it's movement, which I like, you can fly with fingertips, no need to wrench it about. But that's not to everyone's taste of course.

 

I did a lot of reading around the various options, and came down to a choice between the CH range of products, or the X55 (+ some other pedals). A lot of noise is made about hall effect sensors, and the sensor resolution, but all I can say is that a high quality pot reporting 256 values is doing a fine job for me :) Your mileage may vary.

 

I love my CH kit, and don't regret my choice in the slightest. It's perhaps not the prettiest gear, not much in the way of flashing lights or markings, but they're SOLID and good quality. Oh, and the software. The software is SO SO good.

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For future reference - case you want handle CH axis in 12 bits:

 

MMjoy (hardware ~20$): http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4152230/1

- MMjoy allow set response curves in firmware (so CH Manager is not needed for axis).

 

MMSens for MMjoy, ~10$ each (ready to use):

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4097757/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4097757

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4117247/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4117247

 

http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=841


Edited by Sokol1_br
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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

do yourself a favor, and just don't.

 

256 clank gimbals with no lube are considered defective. A non lubed gimbal in an aircraft would be considered unsafe, a very low fidelity plastic clank dead center stick, with poor springs and poor design.

 

the grip is the only thing worth salvaging. Find a cheap serial port one, run an eternal control board, just like CH shamelessly did from the serial port to the USB down mix, re-seat the entire stick assembly into a heart sensor, and you've got quality.

 

CH is plastic, it's not metal. What I just described takes an hour, but also about 25 dollars in parts and a few years of know how and courage.

 

I wire electronics and work on flight and avionics gear for a living, on the back of being an electrical engineer and tinker for 2+ decades.

 

You can give yourself a warthog with a soldering iron and spare parts, but the real trick is going to be the drivers.

 

I''m currently experimenting putting a CH fighterstick into the gimbal and base unit assembly of a 16000 m, rewiring and if necessary, writing a small script to tell the buttons to behave as digital or DX POVs.

 

the main dificile is marrying the electronics, which proved to be fruitless/ convaluted. I will custom wire them with all new guts.

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