TM F/A-18C Hornet, Warthog and Cougar grips disassembly and OTTO switch upgrade

[HILOK]

On 9/22/2023 at 7:52 PM, MAXsenna said:

Worded myself a little vage. So the shift register in the Cougar grip doesn't support it, and I guess neither does the base.
Thanks for answering!

just in case you weren't aware, debolestis has developed shift registers that mimick the warthog ones, they're basically compatible to all TM compatible stick bases (cougar, realsim, virpil, even virpil collective). i used it for a DIY project. works great. also debolestis is a great, very helpful guy 

https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis

 

[MAXsenna]

just in case you weren't aware, debolestis has developed shift registers that mimick the warthog ones, they're basically compatible to all TM compatible stick bases (cougar, realsim, virpil, even virpil collective). i used it for a DIY project. works great. also debolestis is a great, very helpful guy 
https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis
 

Ah! Thanks for reminding me! That's actually excellent, and might be exactly what I need!

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[HILOK]

8 hours ago, MAXsenna said:

Ah! Thanks for reminding me! That's actually excellent, and might be exactly what I need!

you're very welcome, mate  there's also an alternative from rel4y, but i haven't tried it. it comes pre-assembled. don't know about it's dimensions though, debolestis' ones are very tiny and easy to fit.

[WurzelGummage]

Hi everybody,

Just been reading this thread as the pickle button on my Warthog A10 stick has failed.

I've ordered a new grip, but I think in slow time I'd like to try and replace the pickle button with an OTTO one and then keep it as a spare.

Does anyone have a reliable source for the P8-111221C (that's the shorter, black bodied with red button) switch in the UK preferably. I can find them on mouser but they are out of stock. I've also trawled eBay to no avail. 

Thanks

Edited December 16, 2023 by WurzelGummage
Spooling

[DeadMeat]

On 12/16/2023 at 1:49 PM, WurzelGummage said:

Does anyone have a reliable source for the P8-111221C (that's the shorter, black bodied with red button) switch in the UK preferably.

 

According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top.

The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)

 

[WurzelGummage]

2 hours ago, DeadMeat said:

According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top.

The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)

 

Ah, yeah, my bad thanks. You are a gentleman and a scholar. 

[WurzelGummage]

HNY all, 

Just wanted to post and say that thanks to the information in this thread, I was able to order the right button (thanks @DeadMeat) and repair my warthog grip for less than half the cost of a new one.

P8-141321A fits the pickle button perfectly length wise, it did need some tape wrapped around the body to ensure a snug fit in the aperture and I secured it with a little hot glue per the other buttons. Whole job took less than half an hour.

[DeadMeat]

Good job. Enjoy the clicking

[ZeeMan90]

Hi DeadMeat,

since the index button on my Warthog stick started to register two presses every once in a while (which makes switching the master modes in the A-10C II annoying as one is skipped suddenly) I decided to order 2x of the OTTO P1-11118.

What do I have to regard in terms of soldering and orientation? From your pictures I have deduced that I have to remove the old index button, insert the OTTO P1-11118 and solder a green and a black wire to the corresponding contacts of the OTTO button. Are there markings that indicate which contact point is left and right so that I solder everything correctly? 

 

Regards

[DeadMeat]

@ZeeMan90 it doesn't matter how you wire the contacts on the new switch. Just desolder the existing switch and connect the new one. If you're replacing multiple switches at the same time you just have to be careful not to mix them up.

You may have to hot glue the OTTO switch in place or use some electricians tape if it doesn't fit snugly. 

[ZeeMan90]

Did the repair today. It worked like a charm.

On mine the original switch had some hot glue on the cables so I cut the wires to remove the switch.

I did it as close as possible to the housing so that there is enough wire left to do the resoldering and fit the switch into the gap.

After soldering the OTTO switch to the wires I used Tesa electricians tape as recommended and it fit snuggly into the casing.

VIRPIL's Joystick Tester indicated proper function of all buttons and axis. In DCS there is no occasional double click anymore. 

I love the tactile feedback and the click sound of the OTTO switch.

 

Thank you very much for your in-depth guide. It made the whole process possible in the first place. 

Edited February 17, 2024 by ZeeMan90

[DeadMeat]

21 hours ago, ZeeMan90 said:

Did the repair today. It worked like a charm.

On mine the original switch had some hot glue on the cables so I cut the wires to remove the switch.

I did it as close as possible to the housing so that there is enough wire left to do the resoldering and fit the switch into the gap.

After soldering the OTTO switch to the wires I used Tesa electricians tape as recommended and it fit snuggly into the casing.

VIRPIL's Joystick Tester indicated proper function of all buttons and axis. In DCS there is no occasional double click anymore. 

I love the tactile feedback and the click sound of the OTTO switch.

 

Thank you very much for your in-depth guide. It made the whole process possible in the first place. 

 

 

Good to hear. Enjoy the clicking :)

[Sam Mok]

thanks for sharing~ I got an OTTO T5 military-grade switch, can you tell the difference between the commercial & military grade? I noticed that you have these T4 switches.

[DeadMeat]

On 6/13/2024 at 1:02 PM, Sam Mok said:

thanks for sharing~ I got an OTTO T5 military-grade switch, can you tell the difference between the commercial & military grade? I noticed that you have these T4 switches.

From what I can tell the difference typically lies in the sealing level, quality testing, spec tolerances and certifications (if any). Specs and feel can be identical.

For casual, hobby like use it will not make a difference.

[Fullnegi]

Thanks for this post, informations and your work sharing ! Really cool !

 

If it can help, here is the real parts in the F16 stick :

Stick:

•  NWS - A/R DISC - Otto P1-10057 21649 9126 - Grey, side button
•  WPN REL (Pickle Button) - Otto P1-10050 21649 9313 - Red button
•  Pinky Switch - Otto P1-10057 21649 9126 - Grey, side button
•  Paddle : - Otto P1-10047 21649 9113 - Lower button
•  Trigger - Otto Control U2-029 8835 21649

 

Also, they have an equivalent in MIL ref. such as : MS25089-xx

for inst., MS25089-3AR =  will be the red button MSL P1-10050, MS25089-3G = P1-72629 are for the panels, 3C has conical bushing, ..

You can search for MIL-PRF-8805 documentation

 

But these buttons are quite expensive... I'm looking for a P8-1 C style for the paddle, would someone have a ref. number?

i find this one on Mouser : https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/999-P8-111228C , or https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/OTTO/P8-111222C?qs=q7YjwOswUuEdXZEtGrIRJg%3D%3D, but not sure what i'll have..

 

PS : Reveiced an answer from thrustmaster, original buttons are for like 17€ each + expensive shippings fees

Edited September 3, 2024 by Fullnegi

[DeadMeat]

16 hours ago, Fullnegi said:

Also, they have an equivalent in MIL ref. such as : MS25089-xx

for inst., MS25089-3AR =  will be the red button MSL P1-10050, MS25089-3G = P1-72629 are for the panels, 3C has conical bushing, ..

You can search for MIL-PRF-8805 documentation

The OTTO catalogue is a handy reference to understand their standard product codes. There's even a MIL cross reference in the back. Data sheets linked on mouser is typically just a page from the catalogue. P1 and P8 will fit the warthog grip but you should study the product code to understand what you're buying.

16 hours ago, Fullnegi said:

I'm looking for a P8-1 C style for the paddle, would someone have a ref. number?

i find this one on Mouser : https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/999-P8-111228C , or https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/OTTO/P8-111222C?qs=q7YjwOswUuEdXZEtGrIRJg%3D%3D, but not sure what i'll have..

If you look at the data sheet you'll see that those particular P8 buttons have silver casings. First one has a gray button and the other has a black button.
Unless you're going for that look specifically, a better look would be P8-141x22C, P8-151x22C or P8-146x22C with the x being anything 1-6 for hobby use.

[Fullnegi]

I confirm that i already check the P1 and P8 catalogs, but i noted some inconsistancy, like the color or so.

Here is a P8 with Black casing (and in stock) with grey button : https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/999-P8-141628C

will give it a try

[Fullnegi]

Just changed the NWS and Pinkie for a P1-1118 and the Paddle with a P8-141628C. I didn't need to file the paddle, just unscrew a bit the allen screw at the base of it.

 

I also metal 3D print (JLC3DP) a new DMS "Castle" shape that i designed, then re-paint the whole stick. The new feeling is unbelievable.

Edited September 25, 2024 by Fullnegi

[DeadMeat]

Good job

[bigjoe]

Looking for a replacement sensor select switch for the f-18 grip.  The Otto switch is unobtainium.  Is there another alternative?  The left click on mine is unreliable and randomly doesn't work.

 

Thank you

[DeadMeat]

10 hours ago, bigjoe said:

Looking for a replacement sensor select switch for the f-18 grip.  The Otto switch is unobtainium.  Is there another alternative?  The left click on mine is unreliable and randomly doesn't work.

 

Thank you

If it is out of warranty you could try to repair it yourself. It can be a loose connection in the grip or something broken inside the switch, both of which can be fixed quite easily. It is just 4 tact switches and an smd tact in the bottom wired up in a simple manner. Beep it out with a multi meter to find the problem - a wire or switch broken... If the switch itself is okay then the main board may be cooked and you'd be out of luck