Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

[CAT_101st]

Yes that is my budy. A good frind and a great gard dog to boot. As for feeding it to the dog it is more like a knock it on the flore and go to bed he knows what to do after we go to sleep :D. I uasly wake up to a AWWW gosh dam it boomer Hay look what your dog did. I just say you shiuld put your stuff away where he cant get it. It has worked for me so far.... And the guns stay locked up and she doesnt know the code to get in the safe.

 

terint things up since he was a puppy, And he ate the flower after staring at it for 5 minnuts.

[snowman123]

How much does it cost to fly a mission on that, cause i'll come all the way from florida! :D

 

I kinda just skim this thread... Could you give a percentage completion for overall work? Maybe a pic of everything together so far? Thanks in advance

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update August 3rd 2010 - Testing Force Trim Mechanics

 

Check it out so far guys..! The damn thing actually WORKED..!:thumbup:

 

 

 

The "jerking" that you see when I release the Force Trim Calipers by hand, should go away when I have an actuator releasing it for me.

 

Also I'll add Mini Moto Steering Dampers to all axis before the Force Trim Plates. These should smooth out the motion as well..!

Like these:

Edited August 3, 2010 by Triggerhappy69

[Triggerhappy69]

And here are some Pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[C6_Hellfrog]

happy to see that it rocks !

contrario could not be possible after all that work !

you'll gain many gratitude and reputation...

 

but...

with all that stuff, you do will have to train your pilots skills, otherwise you will have some bad comments from your fly partners... such excellence in cockpit can't acommodate with poor piloting skills...

[71st_Mastiff]

lol what ya doing buying purses?

 

I just feed the shoos to my dog. se yeals and they get tosed. some times boomer will get a purse :D Thast a good dog boomer yes you are. :devil:

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update - 5th August 2010 - Suffering from "Builders Block"... and moving

 

but...

with all that stuff, you do will have to train your pilots skills, otherwise you will have some bad comments from your fly partners... such excellence in cockpit can't acommodate with poor piloting skills...

 

I know my friend.. I know..! :cry:

 

And belive me, I have tried flying the Blackshark with a standard joystick setup, just to see if it was ok.. And I'm sorry to say that IT IS NOT..! hehe..

 

So now I'm pushing forwards to finish at least the HOCAS, and get back into the game..!

 

The last two days I have experienced a "builders Block"..!

You know like writers have when they can't seem to get a word down on paper..? Well I have got so many things going on in the pit at once now. All of them depending on another small detail being finished. And now it's all come to a complete standstill... BUMMER..

 

So I pushed on with making the first Gauge..!

 

 

 

 

I'll be using standard HITEC HS-55 servos for this instrument. Since the reolution on it is of lower importance. Originally I planned on using some small MPs835 Stepper Motors, but it semed like such a waste of four stepper motors..?

 

 

The original faceplate I used as a template:

 

... and my version of it:

 

 

 

 

 

I simply printed out the drawings (they are in a 1:1 scale)

 

 

Checked them for size just in case.

 

 

Cut out the pieces, and glued to the plexiglass with one of those "lipstick" type paper glue appliers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here are the PDF files you need:

 

Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge front Plate 70mm.PDF

 

Ka50 Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge 01.PDF

 

Ka50 Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge 02.PDF

Edited August 5, 2010 by Triggerhappy69
.. because I'm a moron..!

[Triggerhappy69]

AAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaargh..! I just noticed a mistake on the faceplate..!

The "EGI" text should have a white background..!

 

I'll fix it, and post new drawings..

[y2kiah]

There you go again raising the bar. NICE WORK!!!! as always. This is something I'm going to have to do soon, for the A-10 though...

 

Are you sure it's EGI and not EGT for "exhaust gas temperature"? The photo is blurry but I believe that is a "T" there.

 

Some questions - what do you plan to make your bezels from? Aluminum? Plastic? What type? Just wondering what your material choice is and why. Seems like ABS or PVC might be a good choice because of its good machining properties and finish quality.

 

Do you plan to light your gauges? I don't see it (yet) in your model, but if so, will it be with an external flood light, or a ring inside the frame?

[brydling]

Very nice work! How will you make the small ones rotate continously?

[Triggerhappy69]

Very nice work! How will you make the small ones rotate continously?

 

 

Simple..!

I just admitt to being a complete moron, and re-design the whole thing..! LOL

[Triggerhappy69]

A small picture update here:

 

 

 

[brydling]

Simple..!

I just admitt to being a complete moron, and re-design the whole thing..! LOL

 

Hehe, I saw the picture in front of me of how the "rotation" would look and thought "He can't be satisfied with that?" ;) Good thing you found the problem BEFORE manufacturing :)

[Avilator]

AAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaargh..! I just noticed a mistake on the faceplate..!

The "EGI" text should have a white background..!

 

I'll fix it, and post new drawings..

 

Are you sure it's EGI and not EGT for "exhaust gas temperature"? The photo is blurry but I believe that is a "T" there.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, Trigger, but y2kiah is right. It's EGT.

Why do you have to use four motors/servos? You can use two, one for each engine, and gear the smaller pointer to the larger one or vice-versa, because they have a constant relationship with one another.

That looks like Solidworks. Is it? I'm using the 2009 student edition for my (A-10) pit.

Anyways, great job and keep it up!:thumbup:

[Triggerhappy69]

Sorry to burst your bubble, Trigger, but y2kiah is right. It's EGT.

Why do you have to use four motors/servos? You can use two, one for each engine, and gear the smaller pointer to the larger one or vice-versa, because they have a constant relationship with one another.

That looks like Solidworks. Is it? I'm using the 2009 student edition for my (A-10) pit.

Anyways, great job and keep it up!:thumbup:

 

 

Good point there mate..!:thumbup:

 

I'll have a look at SDP/SI homepage and see if I can't find some gears with the right size and relation.. Because that WOULD make the instrument a lot simpler to make..

 

.... if I find the right gears that is..

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update - 7th August 2010 - Almost there now.. Almost..!

 

Well, I did some finishing and pre-finish assembling tonight. Just to see if it all comes together nicely.

 

First I added a Mini Moto Steering damper to the pedals for the right "feel"..!

These little thingies are just great for adding that "hydraulic feel" to the controls.

 

And I attached the calipers to the bottom plate, and checked for any allignment issues. None found (thank god.. or who ever..)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not quite satisfied with the way the force gradiant units are attached to the Trim plates.

 

 

 

So I have decided to use these Ball joints instead.!

 

 

 

Now if I could only find a way to attach them to the Return Spring Cyliders like this..?

 

 

 

... Maybe you guys have an idea..?

Edited August 7, 2010 by Triggerhappy69

[CAT_101st]

make a slug that fits in the place you need. weld it in place drill and tap it. your all set..

[Triggerhappy69]

make a slug that fits in the place you need. weld it in place drill and tap it. your all set..

 

Good idea.. But I can just about weld steel well enough to save my life. But Aluminum man...!? NO WAY..! It just keeps melting on me..

[m0jo]

Epoxy glue could work instead of welding

[Triggerhappy69]

Stonehard and Triggerhappy's build night

 

Epoxy glue could work instead of welding

 

.. I'll try that first and let you know.. Thnx..:thumbup:

 

I had a visit from Stonehard here at my place for a couple of days. Mainly just a social visit, but also we were going to build a FFB stick and hydraulic collective for him.

 

Stonehard even brought he's own PC so we could fly some BS together..! But we didn't get any time to do this unfortunately.. Maybe next time Stonehard?

 

 

 

Me cooking our supper..:

 

We used a pneumatic actuator to work as a Collective Base with Collective Brake integrated.

 

 

 

 

 

A springloaded actuator to allow for the difference in volume between the sides of the main hydraulic actuators piston. (one side has the axle in it, remember.?)

 

The 24V solenoid valve:

 

Stonehard's Collective switch box:

 

 

 

 

The Hydraulic Collective System:

 

A 24V solenoid valve opens when you press the Collective brake handle. And you can move the stick freely.

When the handle isn't pressed, you still have a little "emergency collective" to play with. But the stick will return to it's previous position, and no new zero point is sendt to the autopilot. Good for when you need to adjust your altitude over ground while hovering in a steep slope..

 

 

Here you see the complete system assembled:

 

 

Attaching the Collective to the hydraulic cytlinder was quite simple.

 

 

 

119 kr (15 Euro) Force Feedback Amplifyer form Ebay:

 

I came accross these little H-Bridge kits on EBay. And if all goes as I hope, I'll use them to amplify the FFB motors on both my own A-10 stick, and Stonehards..

 

 

As you see, I have buildt one already. I'll let you know how it goes..:cry:

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update 14 August 2010 - Front Pedestal with Trim Force motors

 

Just i little redo of my original one-motor sollution..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stonehard]

Hi, tnx for a great meeting, the supper and a lot of talking.

Next time we have to fly a little bit more, hæ?

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding Update - 24. August 2010 - Trim Mechanics.. again

 

I got arround to re-assembling the front pedestal with the Trim mechanics some more yesterday. And I guess you all woun't be awfully surprised when I tell you that I had to do some minor modifications to it..!?:music_whistling:

 

Here's an picture taken from the front, showing the Force Trim plates sitting nicely in the Calipers. Idid have some reservations to weather this would work glitchless.. But my fears were pointless..! It actually works perfect.!

 

So if you want to spend a seemingless ridiculous amount of time building something that essentially is ... a joystick? Please feel free to contact me, and I'll tell you how to...:thumbup:

 

 

 

Also I have tried one of two alternate sollutions to the Yaw Pedal bearing.. This is the center hub from an old harddrive. And allthough it works fine, I'll be replacing it with somethimg more sturdy... Just becuase...

 

 

I installed one of Leo Bodnars BU0836X Joystick comtroller cards to run the axis and buttons from the stick (and some of the panels functions). And this new one with quick-connections and an integrated matrix is just EXCELLENT..! I'll be using more of these, that I can promise..!

 

 

The motors that activate the Trim Calipers run on 24V. So I connect the 24V powersupply directly with the thumb-button on the cyclic stick. And then activate one of the inputs on Leo's card via a relay (the black little thing in front of the screw connection). The relay is a simple magnetic one, and should last a lifetime if not overloaded.

 

 

 

M-m-M..! Cyclic Stick with a new layer of paint over the filler and scraches.. Looking good, don't you think?

 

The buttons have been replaced with more sturdy ones (allthough these are not of the "click" kind). And they'll be painted white as in RL.

 

 

... and the wheel brake is undergoing a facelift to..! I'll be addding the little lever that hold the wheel brake handle in it's locked position (see next two pics).

 

 

... But that will have to wait for another day..!

 

 

The Trigger mechanics are next in line for a re-make. It looks 'kinda empty without it there..:cry:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Cannon trigger will be completly rebuildt. So that it's impossible to activate the cannon while I pull the trigger down from it's "inactive" position.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not a bad resemblance from the real thing if you ask me..! Specially when you consider the fact that I had no pictures of any detail when I designed it.. Just some blurry photos from a Youtube movie, a lot of guessing and hours and hours in Solidworks..

 

 

[Avilator]

I'm almost speechless. That is amazing! Great work, man! Cheers from a fellow Solidworks user:):thumbup:

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

^What he said! Always amazing to watch the progress and engineering that goes into your projects!