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Posted

Cords bending aside, the thing I fear the most in case I decide to purchase this throttle, is the weak idle detent. From videos, it looks like a couple of notches in the throttle's levers collide with a button, creating that detent. The problem is that it seems way too easy to pass that idle detent and press the cut off buttons. In certain circunstances, I have very abruptly moved my warthog throttles back to decrease power very fast and I'm afraid this could be an issue with the winwing unit.

So, the question is, how bad is it?...I mean, is it something one can truly and easily get used to?, is it really that weak?, how many times have you turn off your engines unintentionally?

I know these are kind of hard questions to answer, and heavily dependant of each user but guess we can somehow have an idea of how bad/not bad this issue is.

 

thanks!!

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Posted

I had same problem 2 weeks ago because my warthog throttle broke, so I buy super Taurus.
From all videos I've seen it seems so easy to push.

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Posted

Never had an issue.  There is a very apparent change in resistance when you get to them, but it's not a hard stop like you could get with a WH throttle with stops.  As you said, very subjective.

Posted
11 hours ago, Bobik2002 said:

I had same problem 2 weeks ago because my warthog throttle broke, so I buy super Taurus.
From all videos I've seen it seems so easy to push.

Send from my Poco F2
 

Its designed to be pushed through. No issue here, had my Taurus for over 12 months and the detent feel hasn't changed.

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Posted
Its designed to be pushed through. No issue here, had my Taurus for over 12 months and the detent feel hasn't changed.
I'm sorry I was in a hurry so I wrote it wrong. My warthog broke down a month ago so I started thinking what to buy I liked winwing Orion but that detents seems eazy to push from videos so I bought super Taurus that didn't deliver yet. Thanks

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Posted
15 hours ago, Ala12Rv-watermanpc said:

Cords bending aside, the thing I fear the most in case I decide to purchase this throttle, is the weak idle detent. From videos, it looks like a couple of notches in the throttle's levers collide with a button, creating that detent. The problem is that it seems way too easy to pass that idle detent and press the cut off buttons. In certain circunstances, I have very abruptly moved my warthog throttles back to decrease power very fast and I'm afraid this could be an issue with the winwing unit.

So, the question is, how bad is it?...I mean, is it something one can truly and easily get used to?, is it really that weak?, how many times have you turn off your engines unintentionally?

I know these are kind of hard questions to answer, and heavily dependant of each user but guess we can somehow have an idea of how bad/not bad this issue is.

 

thanks!!

Not at all, you would have to be very heavy handed to go from idle to cutoff, as it's pretty noticeable.

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Posted
4 hours ago, Ala12Rv-watermanpc said:

thanks all for your replies, so I guess it is not that bad. Would love to hear from more people so we have a more accurate idea about this issue.

is a new throttle your xmas gift?? 🙂

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Posted
7 hours ago, Ala12Rv-watermanpc said:

thanks all for your replies, so I guess it is not that bad. Would love to hear from more people so we have a more accurate idea about this issue.

Honestly, the fact that there aren't any threads about it being a problem should be a good hint that it's not.  It's been out for quite a while now, and this is pretty basic functionality (not an edge case that only a small subset of users would notice) and it would be a pretty significant issue if it was common (not something easily overlooked or worked around if your engines cut out).  I'd pretty much guarantee there would be threads about it if it was an issue.

Posted
19 hours ago, Ala12Rv-Tundra said:

is a new throttle your xmas gift?? 🙂

Maybe! 😙, but I'm still not fully convinced. 

16 hours ago, rob10 said:

Honestly, the fact that there aren't any threads about it being a problem should be a good hint that it's not.  It's been out for quite a while now, and this is pretty basic functionality (not an edge case that only a small subset of users would notice) and it would be a pretty significant issue if it was common (not something easily overlooked or worked around if your engines cut out).  I'd pretty much guarantee there would be threads about it if it was an issue.

That's a good point!. Thanks mate!

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Posted

My experience is that the "feel" push-through resistance is directly related to the amount of friction settings applied to the throttle arms. Less resistance - easy pushthrough and vica versa.

 

 

 

Posted
17 hours ago, Davee said:

My experience is that the "feel" push-through resistance is directly related to the amount of friction settings applied to the throttle arms. Less resistance - easy pushthrough and vica versa.

 

 

 

Thats interesting!. Anyway, I would like to use the throttle at its minimum resistance (minimum warranting the levers would stay in place at angle).

12 hours ago, MelkorBorgir said:

it works fine, the detents are noticeable enough that you won't accidentally push through.

Great to know!, thanks!

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Posted
5 hours ago, Ala12Rv-watermanpc said:

Thats interesting!. Anyway, I would like to use the throttle at its minimum resistance (minimum warranting the levers would stay in place at angle).

Great to know!, thanks!

Just one more adjustment I have made is: to ensure that I do not have engines cut-out (mapped) by enthusiastic throttle pull-back through the idle detent, I have set a modifier key for the engine cut out. Pulling back passed the idle detent does nothing unless the modifier key is also pressed.

  • Like 2
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I wish the detent was more solid but in reality it does not matter too much. You get used to it quickly. To cut the engines you will have to force the throttle down to 0% once you get through the detent. Not something you will do by accident.  If you go into the detent it won't cut the engines. Just go back to idle.

Also, as mentioned. A modifier or simply not mapping the cut off function can also help.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Not an issue for me, but then I prefer a light touch on the throttle. Friction is just barely tight enough to keep it where I put it, and I just have fingertips on the throttle. 

 For some reason the throttle base action isn't quite as buttery smooth as the joystick base, which is exquisite. 

Doubt this  would be obvious if you prefer a full fisted approach, but note, the ergonomics are off for that kind of grip. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by DeltaMike

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Is anybody in here able to correlate the lift into the cutoff gate with the in game cutoff? Meaning, if I calibrated the taurus improperly, I may have missed the cutoff area, and made it an idle function instead. Does the cutoff function on the throttle cutoff the engines in game for you?

Posted

I keep the friction just enough so the throttles don't fall down when you let them go. In that configuration I find the detents very easy to work with.  WIth a lot of tension I could see accidentally pushing through them but not sure why anyone would want that much tension. 

Posted
On 2/16/2022 at 1:56 AM, Harley said:

Is anybody in here able to correlate the lift into the cutoff gate with the in game cutoff? Meaning, if I calibrated the taurus improperly, I may have missed the cutoff area, and made it an idle function instead. Does the cutoff function on the throttle cutoff the engines in game for you?

Taurus, or Orion?

For the Orion, idle and idle cutoff are coded as button presses.  Kind of hard to screw up the idle cutoff, you have to be against the stops for that to trigger.  Going "over the gate" puts you into idle.  Both work flawlessly. 

By the same token, you don't have to map either one.  In which case you would go back to using the keyboard or the mouse.  

You might consider doing that if you're rough with the controls, although in general I wouldn't say Winwing is designed for that.  It's like the difference between a Harley and a BMW.  One you drive with your fist; the other, with your fingers.  (That's coming from a guy who drives a Harley.  Which does what it's supposed to, it just requires a firm hand, or foot. Kind of like a Warthog joystick, you gotta show it who's boss, right?)

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Posted

It is the Taurus. I did an improper calibration and calibrated the gate out of the axis. I got help online and all is well now. Thank you, though. I'm quite impressed with the system.

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