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Posted

New build (damn cable routing... why are all the plugs always wrongly bend) is almost ready for a trial/test run and then the OS installation.

But i'm still in doubt with sticking with Win 10 (which i find i decent OS and have some tweaks for) or go Win 11 (and have to look it all up again)?
Dilemma...

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted
1 hour ago, Lange_666 said:

New build (damn cable routing... why are all the plugs always wrongly bend)

 

Cable routing is, for me, one of the most enjoyable aspects of assembling your own PC, my OCD cringes when a PC is a mess of cables 🙂

 

h875vfv.jpg

 

1 hour ago, Lange_666 said:

But i'm still in doubt with sticking with Win 10 (which i find i decent OS and have some tweaks for) or go Win 11 (and have to look it all up again)?
Dilemma...

 

I tried Win 11 for 6 months and in the end I opted to return to Windows 10, as it just worked better for me ... not faster, but better and easier to tune.

 

For work: iMac mid-2010 of 27" - Core i7 870 - 6 GB DDR3 1333 MHz - ATI HD5670 - SSD 256 GB - HDD 2 TB - macOS High Sierra

For Gaming: 34" Monitor - Ryzen 3600 - 32 GB DDR4 2400 - nVidia RTX2080 - SSD 1.25 TB - HDD 10 TB - Win10 Pro - TM HOTAS Cougar

Mobile: iPad Pro 12.9" of 256 GB

Posted (edited)

I'm not there yet. Can't mount the 280mm AIO radiator on top, the cooler that sits over de motherboards north bridge is just a few mm to tick. I can either move the radiator forward but then i can't fix the front part of radiator because of no fixing holes (or i should drill them). 

Another option is to mount the radiator vertically on the front but then the airflow through the case is not optimal. 

Dilemma. 

Edited by Lange_666
  • Like 1

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted

Up and running... Windows 10 !

  • Like 1

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted

👌

How did you solve the rad problem ?

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire  Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

Posted (edited)

In the end moved it to the front and the intake vents to the top and one at the back. The radiator alone would fit but not with the fans on it (or vice versa).

One last thing to do: put heatsinks on the NVMe's.

Edit: somehow links to photo's uploaded to Imgur or so won't work anymore, what do i miss.... (below is a direct upload)?

 

New PC.jpg

Edited by Lange_666
  • Like 1

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted

Clean build, nice to look at.

You reverted the airflow back to front and top to front? As long as it stays cool I guess it should work but I would turn it around. I dont think the CPU rad will produce much hot air during gaming, rather use the natural way of hot air flowing up. Anyway, if it works I guess it's ok.

 

If I was you, support the GPU.

It really hangs downward. I had that on 2 of my cards and one of them it also heavily induced cooling issues as the card itself bent too muchand cold plate-PCB did bend away from each other. Put a stick under the point where it reads XCS at the far edge of the card. Watch temps under load before and after. I didnt believe it either until I tried it. It also supports the socket/mobo.

I meanwhile run my card with a riser cable vertically mounted, just because of the weight and bending...and it looks great too.

 

Is the RAM working OK now ? 

 

I wouldnt consider manual oc'ing the CPU, enable PBO with CPU default TDP. YOu can gain a few % with manual per core undervolting but it's a PITA when you find out every other Bios upgrade ruins your config..LoL  I gave it up and my CPU stops at 144w. It can pull 220+w and do 5.05GHz single cores for a splitt second and maybe 200MHz more all core but the gain is minimal for gaming purpuses. Actually, that makes it easy to call it a day and forget overclocking the CPU manually. It also hardly ever goes into the ~70°C under stress.

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire  Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

Posted

Currently the 2 tops vents and the one at the back draw cool air in. Hot air goes out through the radiator in front (2x140mm vents pulling the air through).
In my previous case it was the other way around but that's not possible with the 280mm AIO (or i must modify the case but i'm not willing to do that yet).
Played with the idea to have the top and back vents draw hot air out and push cool air in through the radiator at the front but the idea of already blowing hot air into the case did hold me back.

Will look into supporting the GPU, i don't have anything directly lying around that fits, need to make me something. Good tip BTW.

RAM is OK, no problems with that.

Just had 2 little sweaty moments during the build where i thought WTF: 5800X3D wasn't recognized by the mobo so i had to (blind) flash new firmware, without the CPU installed and later when the main monitor didn't got a signal from the onboard HDMI port (my second monitor is still DVI and i have a Displayport --> DVI cable but no HDMI --> DVI so i could not use that to try).

OC: still need to look into that, my previous one (i7 4770K) ran at 4.5 coming from 3.5 but i need to get me some info on OC'ing an AMD. From what i did read yet, the 5800X3D seems a bit sturbern when it comes to overclocking. Gonna install all the software first, OC is for later.

  • Like 2

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted

With everything installed (or better, the most important things) and everything working hardware wise as it should it was time to close the case.

Last part, the glass side panel. Reached for the first screw and then side panel slipped my fingers, tapped with one of the corners on the floor and.... 😞

4bfGSdA.png

  • Like 2

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted (edited)

Sh!t happens !

call yourself lucky, you didn't drop the whole damn thing or fried the CPU, broke some LGA pins or spilled a Coke over the GPU, all would be way worse.

When I did one of my rigs back in 2015 with the then new MoRa-3 ext. radiator, I accidently mis-connected the 4 180mm fans. When I turned it on 1st time, SMOKE...ehhhh dang.

Turned out lucky, only 4 Fans, 50€, and a fan hub, 10€ an 5 days waiting for replacement. Shortly after I spilled hot coffee with milk and sugar all through the tower, top to bottom, through the GPU ( ugly mess ) while it was ON. Pulled the plug, took it ALL apart, bought special cleansing cans to spray-clean the PCBs...lots of work...but nothing broke, just a shock and lots of work. Ever since, my tower sits on top of my table, no more coffee from top to bottom  HAHA.

 

Call it a day, you sacrificed a door panel !  If the rest works as intended it's still a good day.  Could have been way way worse.

 

Edited by BitMaster

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire  Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

Posted

I wouldn't bother manually overclocking the CPU. Enable PBO2 and when it asks, CPU or Mobo limits, say CPU, that will limit the power draw to the TDP listed by AMD and not the higher values from Gigabyte ( duration of peak power and max Amp limit ).

For the GPU-Aid. I used a Balsa stick from my Balsa stock ( yes, I used to build Balsa R/C planes, I guess I am old ) and cut it as long as needed. Any Pencil will help for now, cut it to length and see if it helps. I could lower temps by 10°C just by lifting it level with the finger. Instant drop of temp. Even if your temp doesnt suffer due to the hopefully better internal structure of the EVGA card it still helps the slot.

 

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire  Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

Posted (edited)

Can't set PBO (no 2?) to either CPU or Mobo limits, only Auto/Enabled/Disabled/Manual.
In Manual mode nothing of that sort of setting either, video's on the tube have that but i don't. Maybe due to BIOS upgrade for the 5800X3D?

BIOS version: F4d (to support the 5800X3D).

Edited by Lange_666

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted (edited)

Ah, ok

 

new CPU, new terminology, new things to learn 😉

PBO2 is PBO on Ryzen5000 series, should have been clearer. There is no PBO1 and PBO2 switch. Your PBO is PBO..version2 so to speak.

 

You need to know how to read that Auto/Manual/Disabled talk.

Auto on my Gigabyte is PBO with CPU limits

Enabled is the same but opens other menues where you can dial in higher values ( duration and power limits mostly ). 

Manual is everything at your disposal ( all above plus some more )

DIsabled..speaks for itself, no PBO at all.

 

The easiest way to check what it actually does is to run HWinfo64 Monitor page while you stress test the CPU with any CPU hard hitting thing ( prime, linpack, etc. ).  

Your TDP is 105w, same as mine. With PBO on Auto and nothing else tuned hotter mine draws max 143-144watts, never more. Yours should behave similarily.

If you dial in higher duration of peaks and allow higher amps for those peaks you can easily hit ~220watt with the same tests, and gain a lot of heat. The gain for gaming is 

next to nothing, it can easily force the CPU to throttle and YoYo up&down with the MHz more than if not overpushed. I think a constant stream of power is better than a maybe higher one in peaks but with fluctuations.

 

The menues you say you dont see, become available mostly in OTHER tabs. The structure of the Bios is somewhat strange as foremost those CPU settings are spread across half a dozen of pages.

 

My best advice to see how this works is a YT video with a Gigybyte board. I will link it. It's a very good method to squeeze more out of it while also undervolting. It''s very informative for Gigabyte users as he shows you the menue inside out in that matter. If you actually copy what he does is another thing. I did it all, it worked, lost the paper with the cores listed I took note of and then upgraded the bios....all gone. I redid it again etc.. and it's not worth it long story short vs. the power draw and heat. It's teaching a lot but I went with AUTO at the end of the day ( ~1 year testing what's best for me ). I tuned the RAM to 3600 14-14-14-34 at 1.45v. That is the only overclock I run. Tested it thoroughly and I can run VM's at 95-99% RAM usage for hours w/o any glitches or run linpack, aida, prime etc.. and no errors. If you oc the CPU, those will start to happen and verifying it's stable, and I need it stable, is a big thing.

What you can do, is cool the CPU as much as possible. That will allow PBO to work at it's best

That video is very informativ. I think I watched it at least 3 times, maybe 5tbh..LoL

 

Edited by BitMaster

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire  Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X 

Posted (edited)
On 10/4/2022 at 1:46 PM, Lange_666 said:

With everything installed (or better, the most important things) and everything working hardware wise as it should it was time to close the case.

Last part, the glass side panel. Reached for the first screw and then side panel slipped my fingers, tapped with one of the corners on the floor and.... 😞

4bfGSdA.png

Honestly, I'm surprised that never happened to me. I've dropped my glass panel a couple times and it didn't shatter or chip.

Edited by Mars Exulte

Де вороги, знайдуться козаки їх перемогти.

5800x3d * 3090 * 64gb * Reverb G2

Posted (edited)

It fell right on the tip of a corner from max 2cm height.
Because my local supplier doesn't sell them i looked at the be quiet! website where i could get one but on the checkout it stated that i could not buy from my location (?).
Contacted be quiet! support and after sending them the photo they are gonna supply me a new one, free of charge...👍.

@BitMasterThanks for the info on the PBO thingy.

Crappy software story:
I don't care for any RGB stuff but since i have it on board now i wanted to see if i could turn it off (PC sits under my desk anyway, no need for any RGB).
Installed RGBFusion from the Gigabyte website, played around with it, turned some stuff off and left it installed.
Yesterday i wanted to try something in FS 2020, ran target to activate my FS2020 Warthog profile but once in game HOTAS did not respond like it should have been.
Looked up the bindings in the controller section, no Thrustmaster Combined but 2 separate devices as if Target didn't ran the script.
Checked Target, script runs, re-load FS2020, same story.
Quit FS2020 again, stopped the Target script, ran it again but then i noticed it came back with an error, trying to install a filter for one of the 2 devices.
Never seen that before, tried another script, same thing.
Started search for solutions, found a few, as usual none of them worked. Also uninstall, reinstall Target, no joy.
Then stumbled over a post on Reddit about filters being applied to USB devices all of sudden. The post contained also the cause: RGB Fusion.
Uninstalled it and Target scripts ran fine again... F* RGB !! Lost a few hours of my precious life...

Edited by Lange_666

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

Posted

Stuff like that can happen with SonicWave and some Asus utilities, too. That was when I learned to run a light system. If it isn't relevant to the task at hand, I don't let it run. People LOVE forcing a bunch of autoloading selfupdating random crap. Yesterday, I finally figured out which file was causing ''CyberLink Power Director'' crap to run all the time. I thought the file was a Windows function and never terminated it @@ Discovered the true purpose by chance.

Де вороги, знайдуться козаки їх перемогти.

5800x3d * 3090 * 64gb * Reverb G2

Posted

Yeah, the first thing i do is look up if something runs automatically when it's not needed, same for services.

  • Thanks 1

Win11 Pro 64-bit, Ryzen 5800X3D, Corsair H115i, Gigabyte X570S UD, EVGA 3080Ti XC3 Ultra 12GB, 64 GB DDR4 G.Skill 3600. Monitors: LG 27GL850-B27 2560x1440 + Samsung SyncMaster 2443 1920x1200, HOTAS: Warthog with Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswind pedals, TrackIR4, Rift-S, Elgato Streamdeck XL.

Personal Wish List: A6 Intruder, Vietnam theater, decent ATC module, better VR performance!

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