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Posted (edited)

im using A1324 hall sensor from digikey (after trying 2 other models from digikey, and one other from amazon) 

i found a method with 2x 6mm magnets.

i have to say, the response is amazing. i tested the hall sensor as is, no amps (maybe there is an amp inside, i dont know.... but what ever the IC is connected to a leo bodnar BU0386, is working amazingly well

i have no complaints.. i only wish i started to use this in my other projects!

Edited by hannibal

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted

I might grab an allegro sensor from Leo Bodnar (3 quid with free postage as a test) to see if it gives a finer response.  I would imagine that the sensors I have don't have an amplifier, they were about a quid each on ebay!

I don't have a real world issue with the reponse I get from my rudder pedals, they seem plenty fine enough but more control can't hurt!  If there is a significant difference then I'll invest the huge expenditure in the a full set of the allegro sensors for the collective (when I design it) and the rudders 🙂

Ryzen7 7800X3D / RTX3080ti / 64GB DDR5 4800 / Varjo Aero / Leap Motion / Kinect Headtracking
TM 28" Warthog Deltasim Hotas / DIY Pendular Rudders / DIY Cyclic Maglock Trimmer / DIY Abris / TM TX 599 evo wheel / TM T3PA pro / DIY 7+1+Sequential Shifter / DIY Handbrake / Cobra Clubman Seat
Shoehorned into a 43" x 43" cupboard.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, edmuss said:

I might grab an allegro sensor from Leo Bodnar (3 quid with free postage as a test) to see if it gives a finer response.  I would imagine that the sensors I have don't have an amplifier, they were about a quid each on ebay!

I don't have a real world issue with the reponse I get from my rudder pedals, they seem plenty fine enough but more control can't hurt!  If there is a significant difference then I'll invest the huge expenditure in the a full set of the allegro sensors for the collective (when I design it) and the rudders 🙂

A1324 is a more suitable sensor for use in joysticks/cockpit projects. People really latched onto the 1302 and I think gravitate towards it because that's what they've seen used and that's what LB sells but it lacks sensitivity. This makes it req 180deg movement for a full voltage swing. That means you are only going to use a fraction of your controller's resolution when using the much smaller arc any joystick or joystick adjacent device will be moving. A1324 is 5mv/Guass and you get a full swing out of 90deg, A1302 is 1.3mv/gauss.

Edited by Thadiun Okona
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Posted (edited)

Running into issue with my design. Looking more I will have to go analog pot for the bottom portion of gimble. Since I have to route wires through center of the gimble..that makes is hard to place the magnet and hall sensor..

Yea.. going potentiometer..I don't want to go crazy looking for solution

Edited by hannibal

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Thadiun Okona said:

A1324 is a more suitable sensor for use in joysticks/cockpit projects. People really latched onto the 1302 and I think gravitate towards it because that's what they've seen used and that's what LB sells but it lacks sensitivity. This makes it req 180deg movement for a full voltage swing. That means you are only going to use a fraction of your controller's resolution when using the much smaller arc any joystick or joystick adjacent device will be moving. A1324 is 5mv/Guass and you get a full swing out of 90deg, A1302 is 1.3mv/gauss.

 

Thank you very much for the insight, I'll give the A1324 a shot 🙂

edit: not a single place in the UK that has them in stock for less than 10 quid a sensor 😞

Edited by edmuss
  • Like 1

Ryzen7 7800X3D / RTX3080ti / 64GB DDR5 4800 / Varjo Aero / Leap Motion / Kinect Headtracking
TM 28" Warthog Deltasim Hotas / DIY Pendular Rudders / DIY Cyclic Maglock Trimmer / DIY Abris / TM TX 599 evo wheel / TM T3PA pro / DIY 7+1+Sequential Shifter / DIY Handbrake / Cobra Clubman Seat
Shoehorned into a 43" x 43" cupboard.

Posted
1 hour ago, hannibal said:

fastened the grip assembly to the top gimbal

20230311_113828.jpg

This reminded me of a mounted machine gun simulator some defense contractor was making for the Army I saw when I was doing some field work.. they took one of the small Buttkicker shakers and mounted it at the tip of the gun to simulate the recoil from firing. It was turned so the piston travel was inline with the barrel.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Thadiun Okona said:

This reminded me of a mounted machine gun simulator some defense contractor was making for the Army I saw when I was doing some field work.. they took one of the small Buttkicker shakers and mounted it at the tip of the gun to simulate the recoil from firing. It was turned so the piston travel was inline with the barrel.

 

that is what im planning to do, mount a buttkicker along with audio isolater device which i made with a relay that turns on the buttkicker (in conjuntion with simshaker) only when the trigger is activated. 

else the buttkicker will go off anytime any of the guns of Huey are fired.

Edited by hannibal

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted

This is an amazing device!!! 😍😍😍😍

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DCS Version2.9.15.9408
Modules: UH-1H - SA342 - KA-50 BS3 - MI-24P - MI-8MTV2 - AH-64D - CH-47F - OH-58D - UH-60L(Mod, n.i.) - OH-6A(Mod, n.i.) - A-10CII - F-16C - F/A-18C - AJS37 - F-14 - MiG-21bis - JF-17 - Mirage F1 - MiG-29A - (prepurchase) - FC2024 -Combined Arms
 - Supercarrier - NTTR - Normandy2.0 - Channel - Persian Gulf - Syria - SA - Sinai - Afghanistan - Kola - Iraq - Cold War Germany — Waiting for: BO-105 - AH-1G/F(Mod)

DCS-Client: 9800X3D, 64GB 6200, RTX3090, 1TB M2 NVMe(win10), 4TB M2 NVMe(DCS), VR VivePro2, PointCTRL, VaicomPro, Wacom Intuos S with VRK v2Beta

DCS-DServer: 11600KF, 64GB 3600, GTX1080, 1TB M2 NVMe(win10), 2TB M2 NVMe(DCSDServer), DCS Olympus

Simpit: NLR Flightsim Pro Cyclic: TM Warthog Grip with 30cm Extension + VPforce Rhino FFB FW Stick: TM Warthog Grip and Base, Throttle: TM Warthog Pedals: Komodo Sim. with Dampers Collective: VPC Rotorplus+AH-64D Grip Other: NLR HF8, Buttkicker (3*MiniConcert), TotalControls AH64D MPD‘s and EUFD, Alain Dufour’s AH-64 TEDAC, TM MFD, Streamdecks (1*32,3*15,1*6), VPC CP#1

Posted (edited)

i just completed most of the build with only making the base plate and mounting a buttkicker left.

happy to say that the doorgun is electrically functional

will be sharing the remainder of the stl files for this doorgun project.

i need a break after this build..

Edited by hannibal
  • Like 2

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted

You will mount a buttkicker to it? 👍👍👍That is awesome 🤩 I‘d wish I could shoot a few rounds with it. I Imagine that must be freakin amazing 🤩 

DCS Version2.9.15.9408
Modules: UH-1H - SA342 - KA-50 BS3 - MI-24P - MI-8MTV2 - AH-64D - CH-47F - OH-58D - UH-60L(Mod, n.i.) - OH-6A(Mod, n.i.) - A-10CII - F-16C - F/A-18C - AJS37 - F-14 - MiG-21bis - JF-17 - Mirage F1 - MiG-29A - (prepurchase) - FC2024 -Combined Arms
 - Supercarrier - NTTR - Normandy2.0 - Channel - Persian Gulf - Syria - SA - Sinai - Afghanistan - Kola - Iraq - Cold War Germany — Waiting for: BO-105 - AH-1G/F(Mod)

DCS-Client: 9800X3D, 64GB 6200, RTX3090, 1TB M2 NVMe(win10), 4TB M2 NVMe(DCS), VR VivePro2, PointCTRL, VaicomPro, Wacom Intuos S with VRK v2Beta

DCS-DServer: 11600KF, 64GB 3600, GTX1080, 1TB M2 NVMe(win10), 2TB M2 NVMe(DCSDServer), DCS Olympus

Simpit: NLR Flightsim Pro Cyclic: TM Warthog Grip with 30cm Extension + VPforce Rhino FFB FW Stick: TM Warthog Grip and Base, Throttle: TM Warthog Pedals: Komodo Sim. with Dampers Collective: VPC Rotorplus+AH-64D Grip Other: NLR HF8, Buttkicker (3*MiniConcert), TotalControls AH64D MPD‘s and EUFD, Alain Dufour’s AH-64 TEDAC, TM MFD, Streamdecks (1*32,3*15,1*6), VPC CP#1

Posted

You must have put some time into it. I can't wait to see the final product in action! 

Did you end up using pots or manage to get hall effect sensors working the way you wanted?

The one I made uses a Chinese 3D hall effect project board. Unfortunately the pickup area is circular, therefore I could only achieve full resolution in up/down/left/right, but not diagonals. Therefore had to keep magnet movement range within the black square area below and I lost about 35% resolution overall. It's still enough to to have some fun.

I was trying to build something quickly and  found it easier to have the magnets fixed to the shaft and have the 3d board move about, 

https://i.imgur.com/RXjLWdb.mp4

3d Hall Effect Board Pickup.jpg

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Dogmanbird said:

You must have put some time into it. I can't wait to see the final product in action! 

Did you end up using pots or manage to get hall effect sensors working the way you wanted?

The one I made uses a Chinese 3D hall effect project board. Unfortunately the pickup area is circular, therefore I could only achieve full resolution in up/down/left/right, but not diagonals. Therefore had to keep magnet movement range within the black square area below and I lost about 35% resolution overall. It's still enough to to have some fun.

I was trying to build something quickly and  found it easier to have the magnets fixed to the shaft and have the 3d board move about, 

https://i.imgur.com/RXjLWdb.mp4

3d Hall Effect Board Pickup.jpg

Wow. Like wow. 

I thought I was the only one crazy to build a doorgun. My doorguns can traverse a range of 270 degrees.

But for DCS world, the huey uh1h door guns have a much less traverse range of somewhere  100 degrees. 

You don't need alot of traverse / slew in dcs uh1h. Ill make a video on how to tune a doorgun to function good enough for a great VR experience.

You have made my morning @Dogmanbird

By the way how does your doorgun build respond in windows game controller properties? Like any other joystick, it has to be functional in windows before you can even begin to deal with a game

Also note on the hall effect. The sensor I used worked perfectly (A1432, digikey part number 620-1432-ND). The kicker is I was only able to use it for the top gimbal. I had to use conventional pot for the bottom gimbal since the wires went through the center of the gimbal axis

Edited by hannibal

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted (edited)

 

Yes, it all works as a game device joystick. The sensor and buttons are attached to an Arduino pro micro running mmjoy2

ive got it set for full coverage for what the huey door gunner needs, but that s all. If I had to go wider, there's not enough resolution and it gets a bit jittery. Two amped hall sensors based around each axis would be ideal.

I'm sure you could do it on your build with a pair of moving magnets on each axis, each side of the hall sensors. North facing one side of sensor and south facing the other side. I mad a joystick gimbal just like this that work fine 🙂 The raw data might not be perfectly linear, but if you've got enough resolution, you could apply a curve.

Alternatively, you could use a magneto resistive sensor (mars), similar to what VKB use. They are based on rotation and results are quite linear.  They come in an analogue and digital version. 

 

 You've done such a great job of everything   

Han.jpg

Edited by Dogmanbird
Posted

As mentioned ur suggested diagram i can not impement because there are wires going through the center. If i made a simpler grip, maybe it is possible. Going thru my center is the wiring for 12 buttons on the spade grip, and wiring for the top hall effect sensor. I wanted to route speaker cable through it, but i had to abandon that idea.

Make a video of your doorgun in action..

@Dogmanbird

we need a diy doorgun joystick group! More dcs world controlled turrets and doorguns! 

find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179

Posted (edited)

ah, ok. Sorry might have missed that bit. 🙂

Though if the sensor is amplified, you may be able to extend the magnets beyond the centre pivot point, so there's room for wires, and still have the resolution. Stacking the magnets on top of each other or side by side can help increase range, up to a point. You have the advantage of using non metallic parts too. A raised bracket leaving room for wires to pass through, could also work for a mars sensor

but like you mentioned, if 270 degrees of pan as a non huey usable gun is needed, for ground troops and trucks etc, there's probably not a hall effect solution without adding gearing 

a group would be cool 👍 

 

Edited by Dogmanbird
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  • hannibal changed the title to DIY Doorgun Project for VR use
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