My_Name_Jeff Posted August 27, 2024 Posted August 27, 2024 13 minutes ago, Papamiraculi said: The cheap and easy solution is to cut some plastic strips and squeeze them in the gap. I've been using mine for months now and it still works flawlessly. Cost: 0$ (used some transparent plastic of a package of batteries I would have thrown away). As long as it is thin enough, flexible and does not give in it will work. You can layer them, as most plastic packaging is too thin for the gap. You just have to really squeeze it tight in there. The metal solution by @101Feel above is the ultra durable version of it Got it, thank you, I contacted a 3d printing service and their minimum charge for product is 50. I'll contact the other guy to see what the metal filler is about, since Im getting the tilted extension, it'd be safer to go for something sturdier. Thanks anyway.
Beezer Posted August 30, 2024 Posted August 30, 2024 I Like the metal option too! Still think Winwing should have their own guys do something to fix this... But any object, 3d print, leftover plastic, or metal ring. As long as you are creative and can get the gap filled. That seems to be the key to making these sticks react the way they should in the game. I doubt I'd be selling these. Ultra cheap to make, but being so small they would need a bit of protection in the mail. Then they would cost way more to ship then they are worth too. If you don't know anybody who has a 3d printer, then go with the plastic or hose clamp.
Scott-S6 Posted September 8, 2024 Posted September 8, 2024 On 11/20/2023 at 4:12 PM, Katmandu said: Could you not use Real Simulator tailpipe for this? https://realsimulator.com/f-16-c-angle-adapter/ I could never understand how Thrustmaster and now WinWing market their A-10 handles as F-16, when the angle is completely wrong for the F-16 handle. And yes, A-10 grip needs to be angled like below to match F-16 sidestick ergonomics. The actual (and Real Simulator) F-16 grip is more banana-like, so it does not need tilting of course. If there's no adapter then modify the mount for the base - angle the grip and base forward. That's much easier to do.
VirusAM Posted October 25, 2024 Author Posted October 25, 2024 On 1/29/2024 at 10:58 PM, Beezer said: Papamiraculi: you, Sir, are a genius. I started using force sensing sticks way back when with the Saitek X65F. Must've been about 20 years ago. Received it as a gift, and hated it. However, as time went on I practiced with it a lot, got used to it, and grew to love it. Fast forward to a few months back I upgraded to the winwing MFSSB, and have been trying to dial it in for a while now. I too found the stepping to be a problem, and the force only mode was like trying to use a stick with a massive center deadzone. I purchased the extension for the stick, and have been using the fully realistic mode with some good results. Though I find delicate work (like aerial refueling) to still be too fidly within the small confines of the movement of the stick. When I saw your post I was intrigued. Owning a 3D printer, I engineered a little scoop that does just what your cardboard does, and voila... so far, so good. I too now have the smooth linear movement I'm after. I posted my settings below, which may need to be tweaked. I am using the force only mode now at 30% strength (with the extension, and the same reed setup as you have), and a 2% deadzone. To me, this is what the stick should feel like. It has a little movement, but is completely force sensing otherwise. Winwing should supply little things like this with the stick. My only other wish for this stick would be quick settings to change the force on the fly. I had that option on my old X65f, and I miss it. Was great for keeping a heavier hand for hard manoeuvring, and then quickly switching to a lighter force for refueling. I threw in the STL file if anyone else here has a 3d printer and wants to punch a couple out for their rigs, or make it better. One small advantage of this little gizmo is that it makes re-centering the stick real easy after you change out the reeds. If it isn't centered, it doesn't fit in! Thanks again. MFSSB Insert.stl 91.59 kB · 97 downloads Hi I would like to thank you and @Papamiraculi for this. I finally decided to take courage and use a printing service (I printed 4 to be sure)...I don't know which settings they used, but the printing is so thin, that is flexible. Anyway I installed on both axis, added reeds (2 roll and 2 pitch), and now my stick is really perfect. There is no deadzone (no need for it) and force only mode but without that annoying hardware deadzone. It is very similar to how I remember the Realsimulator one, basically for half the price. This is how winwing should have done the stick. Thanks to both of you. 1 R7-5800X3D 64GB RTX-4090 LG-38GN950 N/A Realsimulator FFSB MKII Ultra+F-16 grip+F/A-18 grip, VKB Stecs Max, VKB T-Rudder MKV, Razer Tartarus V2 Secrets Lab Tytan, Monstertech ChairMounts
nikola499 Posted November 5, 2024 Posted November 5, 2024 New player here. Just installed DCS and ordered the wingwing joystick. All of this is a little confusing and overwhelming for me. I am trying to figure out the setup for my VR/DCS/Joystick + learn the F16 module. If a kind soul could tell me the exact setup for the WingWing joystick to make it feel exactly the way it should and get as close to as the RealSim one (won't lie I had a little bit of second thoughts when I started looking online and thought I made a mistake ordering the wingwing instead of the RS one. This thread gave me hope)... How many springs and where, which settings, options, etc? I did read this whole thread twice, I got the little parts 3D printed and they are on their way to me. I also ordered the QR4 rings to give that angle to the joystick. I am a little confused for the rest. Appreciate the help in advance!
Beezer Posted November 8, 2024 Posted November 8, 2024 @nikola499 Welcome in and congrats on the winwing stick. It's a great one when you get it dialed in. Don't be overwhelmed yet... almost everything becomes pretty clear once the stick arrives and you get a chance to see it and use it. There are instructions that arrive with your stick that show you how to take it apart and add in the reeds to make the stick feel right. It will also depend on your personal preferences, and how high the qr4 rig makes the stick too. That part can take some time. It isn't quick to take apart, adjust, and put the stick back together, and then you gotta use it a bit to see how you like it. If you need to change the reeds, you gotta start all over again. But soon enough you find the physical set up that works, then you just tweak in-software... and that part is pretty user friendly. So basically... just wait until the stick arrives. Then read through the stuff and open it up for the reed adjustment. You will be fine! If not, we'll be here.
nikola499 Posted November 10, 2024 Posted November 10, 2024 I think I got everything down so far pretty good but for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the Q4Rings to not loosen and make the joystick move on its yaw axe... No matter how tight I screw it, it ends up loosing up and moving joystick twists... Any suggestions?
Papamiraculi Posted November 10, 2024 Posted November 10, 2024 I have no experience with the Q4Rigs stuff, but get rid of the twist axis maybe? You don't really need yaw for the F-16.I 've used the analogue stick on the shaker kit for NWS and rudder for some time. It was fine. The flight computer does almost all the yaw controls for you.
Beezer Posted November 10, 2024 Posted November 10, 2024 I haven't used the Q4R either (yet...) But their installation talks about the rubber gaskets that are provided and are supposed to add enough tension that they don't see the need for the grub screws anymore. Do you have those gaskets installed? The guy in the video seems to be very concerned with how everything is mated before screwing things together...
nikola499 Posted November 11, 2024 Posted November 11, 2024 9 hours ago, Beezer said: I haven't used the Q4R either (yet...) But their installation talks about the rubber gaskets that are provided and are supposed to add enough tension that they don't see the need for the grub screws anymore. Do you have those gaskets installed? The guy in the video seems to be very concerned with how everything is mated before screwing things together... Yea I used the rubber gasket on both bottom part and top part. I even tightened the ring so hard to the point where I broke the plastic of the ring where the joystick sits and it still ended moving. I ordered 2 of them, so I still have the back up one thats unused but before I mess that one up to, I wanna see if there are any solutions for that problem.. If not I guess ill be stuck playing with the no angle in the grip.
Beezer Posted November 18, 2024 Posted November 18, 2024 (edited) @nikola499 Did you by chance have an option with your stick for Gasket A or Gasket B? (From Winwing... not Q4R) Edited November 18, 2024 by Beezer
MustangSally Posted January 14 Posted January 14 57 minutes ago, TripRodriguez said: This may or may not be too off topic here but I think the folks here with the informed answers might be the right ones to ask. Does anyone have any data on how the "force sensing" rudder pedals with mechanical spring feedback and the toe brakes work? Looking for enough info to try to make a Viper simulator pedal set as realistic as possible to go with the modded MFSSB stick. Thanks! And yes, I realize this is more than a little OCD given how little the pedals matter in the Viper. I've got the manual but it's very vague: "Rudder Pedals The rudder pedals are forcesensing units containing transducers. Force on the applicable rudder pedal produces electrical yaw command signals. The rudder pedals are also used to generate brake and NWS signals. Rudder pedal feel is provided by mechanical springs" Prob not the correct forum to ask this as it really has nothing to do with Winwing. Really should be here - https://forum.dcs.world/forum/70-input-devices/ Ryzen 9 7950X3D - MSI MAG X670E TomaHawk MB, ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 AIO 64gig Corsair DDR5@6000, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 AORUS Winwing Super Taurus, Orion2, TO / Combat panels, Collective with Topgun MIP Winwing Skywalker pedals, NLR Boeing Mil Edition Simpit, 55" Samsung Odyssey Ark, Trackir
TripRodriguez Posted January 14 Posted January 14 (edited) 15 hours ago, MustangSally said: Prob not the correct forum to ask this as it really has nothing to do with Winwing. Really should be here - https://forum.dcs.world/forum/70-input-devices/ Fair enough, I know I'm off topic! I just figured the same people would be interested and same people would have the answers. They'd be a WinWing MFSSB "accessory"! Post deleted. Edited January 14 by TripRodriguez [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Demo of my 6DOF Motion VR Sim:
viper-dsl Posted February 13 Posted February 13 We have 2025 - is it still neccessary to use those 3D printed parts to get good results with the MFFSB Base oder did they change anything? 1
ZACHI Posted March 24 Posted March 24 On 2/13/2025 at 10:46 AM, viper-dsl said: We have 2025 - is it still neccessary to use those 3D printed parts to get good results with the MFFSB Base oder did they change anything? +1 On 11/11/2024 at 2:21 AM, nikola499 said: Yea I used the rubber gasket on both bottom part and top part. I even tightened the ring so hard to the point where I broke the plastic of the ring where the joystick sits and it still ended moving. I ordered 2 of them, so I still have the back up one thats unused but before I mess that one up to, I wanna see if there are any solutions for that problem.. If not I guess ill be stuck playing with the no angle in the grip. I see that Q4R also now offers an optional anodized aluminum screw - has anyone tried that?
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