Anyone still using MS or Logi FFB stick?

[MAXsenna]

Roger that!
Just as an addition to clear up any misunderstandings:
The top of my grip has a height of 30cm (measured from the gimbal). Basically I shifted the original grip upwards by one grip length. With the resistor mod the forces are doubled. The FFB-forces at the new grip position roughly corresponds to the previous unmodded state. The new grip (B8 replica from old joystick) is very light (all plastic) and the extension is a short aluminum pipe with 16mm diameter. I consider this to be the maximum change without losing the original properties.
From this it can be seen: The FFB2 is rather weak-chested, even with resistor mod there is not plenty of headroom to handle long extensions and heavy grips.
About that old app which came originally with the FFB2: That piece of software just adds pre-tensioning by applying engine forces before the grip is even moved. You can do the same with simFFB which still works fine. You have to deactivate FFB in DCS of course, because control has to remain at simFFB.

Hmmm, the "pretentioning" is what I might be after. I could give simFFB another try. I even compiled it myself.
I forgot one thing regarding the "deadzone". Sit still on the ground or whatever in any module. Open up the controls indicator and slowly, very slowly move the stick and observe the position of the stick lag just a tiny bit whenever you cross the X or Y axis. That's what I'm talking about. And this can also be observed in "high end" joystick testers, when looking at the values. If I could get rid of that, the stick would be close to perfect, even if the motors are not that strong.

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[mikko.1842]

SimFFB is such a nice little program ! I have been using it to fly non FFB-supporting mods (mainly Extra 330 and Edge 540) for months. Without SimFFB, my FFB2 would remain limp with these planes.

[VR Flight Guy in PJ Pants]

You guys tempted me to give my non-mod stick another go...

[Teh-Stig]

I was using an FFB Pro (i.e. version one) up until I got my FFBeast going this week.  They are still great, but the effects aren't very strong, particularly if you want to use an extension (or stick a heavy ass Warthog grip on it as I did). 

The centre deadzone is more likely to be from wearing out rather than endemic.  The wearing out is also more likely in the FFB2 than the original (given the original uses optical encoder rather than potentiometers.  Unfortunately the resistor mod doesn't apply to the original version, so if you want a heavier grip or extension then FFB2 is better for you.

Other things to note, the majority of original FFB Pro don't support USB (the last year or so of their production they did and came with an adapter in the box, so you'll need to convert it yourself if you do go that route.

[erniedaoage]

On 7/10/2024 at 1:24 PM, MAXsenna said:

Hmmm, the "pretentioning" is what I might be after. I could give simFFB another try. I even compiled it myself.
I forgot one thing regarding the "deadzone". Sit still on the ground or whatever in any module. Open up the controls indicator and slowly, very slowly move the stick and observe the position of the stick lag just a tiny bit whenever you cross the X or Y axis. That's what I'm talking about. And this can also be observed in "high end" joystick testers, when looking at the values. If I could get rid of that, the stick would be close to perfect, even if the motors are not that strong.

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk
 

I know exactly what you mean. I slapped a CH Grip onto my msffb2 which was quite an easy task. Since the board of the CH stick is quite small and fits easy into the case of the msffb2. I use the original usb cable from the CH stick so the wiring and buttons stay the same. So my msffb2 stick has one usb connection for the ffbbase and a seconed usb connection for all the buttons on the ch stick. Your described problem is much more pronounced now since the CH stick is way heavier than the original msffb2 stick. I think i have to go for the resistor hack to see if it gets better. Right now i have setup a deadzone on both axis of 2 or 3 on all modules to overcome that "hardware" deadzone from the stick itself.  

[Hiob]

Since you guys are so comfortable with modding your MSFFBs, you are predestinated for the Rhino DIY-Kit. I mean, I know it is still very expensive even as a Kit, but it'll be a BIG improvement over the Sidewinder.

[erniedaoage]

I know and i would have already bought a kit, but right now it is a wiser choice to upgrade my system. I am reading propelers thread and everything which evolved around it, since he startetd it. FFB brings so much immersion to the platform and it got neglected for so long. I am still wondering why, since the whole racing genre exploded in the last decade with a wide price range. There are even ffb pedals. I mean i know there was a lawsuit which stopped microsoft from producing the ffb sticks. But it seems to me that nobody even tried to go a different route, so that they don't violate some patents or even come up with something else. 

For me everything related to ffb becomes an addiction at some point. Since i got my jetpad couple years ago, i can't fly or race without it anymore. 

Just imagine you could have a ffb throttle/collective and ffb pedals. Flying the huey could be so awesome as a co-pilot when collective and stick and everything moves around like in the real thing. I mean if you fly with a buddy or some other human. I don't wanna know how weird it gets with the inputs as soon as the ai takes over. 

Edited September 6, 2024 by erniedaoage

[Richi]

 

 

Edited September 7, 2024 by Richi

[erniedaoage]

Nice work looks really good. What does that switch do on the base between button 8 and the thrustslider?

[Richi]

On 9/17/2024 at 4:16 PM, erniedaoage said:

Nice work looks really good. What does that switch do on the base between button 8 and the thrustslider?

 

The original stick is still original, including the diodes that turn the FFB on or off. Only the twist is gone. The CH Products Fighterstick is connected by five wires to the Arduino Micro in the base, so there are two USB wires. Only one or both connected. Fighterstick logically does not have the option of interrupting FFB if needed, because otherwise FFB works, unnecessarily, all the time. And with this switch I have control over FFB.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[erniedaoage]

Oh yeah good idea with the ffb switch. I should consider this option if i am going for the resistor mod.

[petsild]

If you use a longer extension a resistor mod is required.

 

[Irpus]

If you use a longer extension a resistor mod is required.  

What is this? Is It a mod for the old msffb2?

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk

[petsild]

23 hours ago, Irpus said:

What is this? Is It a mod for the old msffb2?

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk
 

It is a combo MSFFB2 + VKB NXT EVO grip.

[Irpus]

It is a combo MSFFB2 + VKB NXT EVO grip.

Ok thank you for your answer.
But is It with the above mentioned resistor mod?

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk

[petsild]

7 minutes ago, Irpus said:

Ok thank you for your answer.
But is It with the above mentioned resistor mod?

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk
 

Yes, it is necessary.

[Irpus]

Yes, it is necessary.

How difficult you think it is for a total dummy on electronics?
Referring to the resistor mod. I'm starting to do some research but I'm still unsure of my chances to do It without destroying my equipment.

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk

[petsild]

20 minutes ago, Irpus said:

How difficult you think it is for a total dummy on electronics?
Referring to the resistor mod. I'm starting to do some research but I'm still unsure of my chances to do It without destroying my equipment.

Inviato dal mio Tapatalk
 

Without previous soldering experience you will find it difficult.

There is evidence that even a complete beginner will eventually succeed after practicing soldering on a practice board for a while.

Or you'd better have it powered by a pro in the area.