fael097 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Posted June 5, 2011 so sweet! but I was expecting opinions, like I forgot the switch guard, or letters sucks real bad ;) Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
Deadman Posted June 6, 2011 Posted June 6, 2011 Oh ya you love honest comments :thumbup: https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
fael097 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) Oh ya you love honest comments :thumbup: indeed I do! unfortunately I still didn't figure out a way to make that switch guard. I'm considering materials, perhaps aluminium, not sure yet. but yeah, that pic you posted of the real laste panel helped me with the labels as you can see ;) now srsly, It's looking good for something hand made with basic tools, isn't it?! Edited June 6, 2011 by fael097 Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
fael097 Posted June 15, 2011 Author Posted June 15, 2011 so, my groovy game gear arrived! and I just bought a leo bodnar's board for the axis. turns out that my old joystick usb card is not working properly. the axis (even using it's own pots) aren't analog anymore, but always 0% or 100%. maybe I broke it, because it used to work fine. I'm buying the wood to mount my structure, gonna have some pics hopefully soon. Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
fael097 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Posted June 22, 2011 So I was considering building my own throttle grip, but after a couple prototypes, I decided that it is really weird, and I'm just too used to my hotas-x. fits my hand and it's already done, so I wouldn't need to make the grip, wich is the hardest part imo. so I just got a few switches, two old joysticks, and an old dualshock controller so I decided to modify my hotas-x to have all warthog hotas functions. the only thing I won't have is a handle for each engine. that would require too much work, I'd have to saw the grip in half, make another rail for it to slide, etc. maybe in the future i might do it, but not now. so here's what I'm doing, I opened the throttle grip, and removed side buttons: then I replaced them for 2 (on)-off-(on) and one on-off-on switches, for the speedbrake, boat and china hat switches: covered them with L R buttons form my dualshock: I'll place the mic switch on the bottom hole, took a hat switch from an old joystick: then for the pinky switch, I'll use a regular 3 position toggle. for the coolie, I'll use another hat switch from another old joystick, and a dualshock mini-stick for the slew hat. for the left throttle button I'll leave the back buttons on the hotas-x throttle. will post updates as soon as I do anything else :P Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
PanelBuilder Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 If that mini-stick is a 2-axis pot it's not going to be a drop in replacement for a hat switch. Cheers, Colin
fael097 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Posted June 23, 2011 If that mini-stick is a 2-axis pot it's not going to be a drop in replacement for a hat switch. Cheers, Colin the thrustmaster hotas-X has two different rudder axis, one in the joystick twist, and one in the back of the throttle stick. since I'm not gonna use those anymore (when I build my rudder pedals i wont be using the twist) I can connect the mini-stick pots to these axis. the sensitive axis will be more accurate to the real slew hat, I believe. @klafaille: speed brake switch = momentary boat switch = not momentary china hat = momentary? cuz thats my setup, two momentaries and one not. Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
KLaFaille Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 speed brake = (on)-off-on boat= on-on china hat = (on)-(on)
98abaile Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 speed brake switch = momentary boat switch = not momentary china hat = momentary? cuz thats my setup, two momentaries and one not. The speed break forward position (close speed brakes) is non-momentary, although your setup will work well enough (you are correct about the boat switch and china hat). The only other funny switches on the warthog throttle are the "engine oper" toggles, the forward positions (ignition) are momentary but the rear positions (motor) are non-momentary. All other toggles are non-momentary. 1
fael097 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Posted June 24, 2011 it's funny cuz when I went to the store asking for momentary switches, the guy had only the (on)-off-on switch, and I was wondering where in hell I'd use that. lol so thanks for explaining that! Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
hawk2495 Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) I just had a question for you fael, how did you successfully set up the release zones in xpadder? If I you could show me how you set it upI might be able to figure it out.... By the way awesome work. Trying to do something similar, but much more generic. Edit, please disregard, wow no wonder I couldn't figure it out, it was way too simple...lol Edited July 6, 2011 by hawk2495 Why is the rum always gone!?!?!?!
hreich Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) alright, so here are the plans, i didnt follow the real measures to the letter, to make it better for me to cut, but should look pretty similar: now i just have to decide where to place holes for the led lights. Hi...do you have measurements of upper portion of throttle (switches that are pleced before LASTE panel)? I would like to make a panel witch cut outs for switches which I can use for other simulations that i play...Check this link for explanation.. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1241487#post1241487 Edited July 6, 2011 by hreich [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Pilot from Croatia
Mr_Burns Posted July 6, 2011 Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) hey ive tried reading this, I got you used 3 sheets of acrylic and some leds and a stencil. Can you do something like Tigershark for how to backlight a panel? For info, my mind is going paint the Acrylic black and use a dremmel engraver to write then paint the engravement white. I have no access to a CNC so its either paper or engraver and hope the beer calms the shakes! Appreciate your work. Edited July 7, 2011 by Mr_Burns
Mr_Burns Posted July 7, 2011 Posted July 7, 2011 Apologies, just re-read in sober eyes, I see you used a stickers for the letters then peeled them off after painting, damn ingenious! Did you get around the light dissipation issue, EL Panels dont use LEDS, think there may be some fibre optic or the panels actually have an element in them, prhaps you could sheild them so there is no direct light?
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