Greasing up the Warthog

[Hans-Joachim Marseille]

I dunno if I'd recommend applying the good grease when the bad, stock grease is still there.

I second that. Since his Warthog is brand new, I'd also not favor taking it apart until sticking becomes noticable.

Taking it apart can be quite an ordeal, as you know. Don't fix something that's not broken.

[CookPassBabtridge]

Appreciated, but I wouldn't be in this thread if it wasn't a problem.

 

OK, so I can either take it apart and void my warranty, but have smoothness, or I can risk the effects of combining greases. TM did not mention any issue with mixing greases so I will probably just get some guidance off them which type to use. Thanks again.

[Hempstead]

Hi mate.

 

I honestly believe that most of my 'stiction' came from the contact between 'the rubber washer' and the plastic 'bell-end'.

 

In fact recently the washer came loose and forces it's way out. It felt weird and then returned to normal ops but I had stiction. I pulled it apart and found that the plastic bell bit was wearing on metal. I cleaned everything up, super-glued the washer back in place, regressed it and the four spring posts and voila it's good again.

 

I do agree with the video that both the Tamiya and EM-30L greases are not thick enough. I've put both in. I hope to one day have the courage to do the full disassemble and relube as featured in the video.

 

Again, please DO NOT superglue or epoxy the old ring or any ring in. This ring is consumable. You permanently glue it in, then how are you going to replace it when it wears out?

 

Clean up all the grease and double side tape it back. Or buy a PTFE ring from me, which requires no gluing. Just slide the PTFE ring in place, grease up, reassemble and go.

 

I view the PTFE ring thing as a community service, so I am only charging USD $8, s/h included. Just enough so I don't lose money on it.

[Corrigan]

Yep, you do good work with those PTFE rings, buddy.

 

I wanted to ask a related question: Does anyone imagine there being any danger in removing the four post springs completely? I found it to tighten the stick up around the centre. Conversely, it's softer at the extremes, but I can live with that. Ideas?

 

EDIT: just wanted to confess that the real reason I want them gone is the annoying clicky springy sound they tend to make.

Edited September 23, 2014 by Corrigan

[johnv2pt0]

I took it apart, sanded the rough spots, greased it up with Molykote 44 medium, and boy what a difference. Just did it today, but if I see any problems over time, I'll repost here.

 

It's like a whole new experience...very nice.

 

Just an update here. It's been almost a month and it's still working beautifully.

 

It's definitely a little nerve-wracking, but the results on my joystick are drastically better. YMMV ~

[marluk]

Hi mate.

...

I do agree with the video that both the Tamiya and EM-30L greases are not thick enough. I've put both in. I hope to one day have the courage to do the full disassemble and relube as featured in the video.

 

After many months of Warthog rodeo, finally solved sticking issue with this 10cm extension

http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/2042-selling-thrustmaster-warthog-extensions/

 

and Molykote 44M grease

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280573844554?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(I ordered exactly this item)

 

Hempstead, thank you for your advice. I will contact you for additional details about buying the ring.

 

I'm now happy with my Warthog now and how it performs although I have one more problem from the beginning - two switches are not registering contact every time -tms up and speed brake forward position. TM support wants video to demonstrate the issue, but didn't have free time to do that. If somebody knows product model of those switches I will be grateful for for sharing that information with me.

[Milli]

Its hard to find the stuff for sale that wont need shipping from US to UK. I found these guys http://www.univarsc.com/plist/Molykote--44-High-Temperature-Bearing-Grease,-Medium/44ME180 but you can only buy a pack of 10.

 

Hi CookPassBabtridge.

 

I live in the uk. I bought this item from the U.S and it was delivered in about a week or so. Good stuff.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270666662651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

Regards,

Milli

[CookPassBabtridge]

Hi CookPassBabtridge.

 

I live in the uk. I bought this item from the U.S and it was delivered in about a week or so. Good stuff.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270666662651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

Regards,

Milli

 

Hi thanks Milli, I have been searching around to see if I can find any locally but if I draw a blank I might go down the ebay route. I don't actually have an account believe it or not :D Once tried to sell a drum kit on there, didn't get very far lol

[marluk]

Hi CookPassBabtridge.

 

I live in the uk. I bought this item from the U.S and it was delivered in about a week or so. Good stuff.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270666662651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

Regards,

Milli

 

For some time I'm researching greases that could be used for Warthog. This grease is good but it is only NLGI class #1. It means that it is thinner than NLGI class #2. Warthog has pressured ball joint that must be greased well. The thinner grease is, sooner will leak out of the joint.

So I suppose that you will have to regrease it more often.

 

I have used Molykote 44M which is #2 grade so it should be thicker then EM-30L and last for longer period of time. It works well for me. Link on eBay item is above, in my previous post.

[CookPassBabtridge]

For some time I'm researching greases that could be used for Warthog. This grease is good but it is only NLGI class #1. It means that it is thinner than NLGI class #2. Warthog has pressured ball joint that must be greased well. The thinner grease is, sooner will leak out of the joint.

So I suppose that you will have to regrease it more often.

 

I have used Molykote 44M which is #2 grade so it should be thicker then EM-30L and last for longer period of time. It works well for me. Link on eBay item is above, in my previous post.

 

For anyone in the UK, I found a supplier for the Molykote 44M here:

 

http://www.silmid.com/products/molykote-44-medium-high-temp-grease-100gm-tube-915.aspx

 

Dont know if that works out cheaper than shipping from the states or not

EDIT: Hmm no its more expensive but you get 100g as opposed to 28g. Cost me £23 in total with shipping, which TBH is stupidly expensive (£8 ). Oh wellz.

Edited September 24, 2014 by CookPassBabtridge

[Corrigan]

I wanted to ask a related question: Does anyone imagine there being any danger in removing the four post springs completely? I found it to tighten the stick up around the centre. Conversely, it's softer at the extremes, but I can live with that. Ideas?

 

EDIT: just wanted to confess that the real reason I want them gone is the annoying clicky springy sound they tend to make.

 

Shamelessly quoting myself; does anyone know?

[aeliusg]

Danger? I doubt it. I think it will make the center even clunkier though.

[CookPassBabtridge]

Shamelessly quoting myself; does anyone know?

 

I will be polite and reply even though I don't actually know. Nothing worse than leaving a man hanging after all :)

 

I would imagine removing the springs would make your stick go floppy, which would be both a great innuendo and disadvantage :joystick:

[Corrigan]

Thanks, friends. The specific danger I envisioned was increased wear; I agree that it probably won't explode. :p

 

The centre is stiffer without them (they help when stick is pulled), but that's fine since my stick is extended. It makes the centre more defined which is nice if you, as did, have a small bit of play at the centre.

[Mainstay]

My Molykote 44 Medium 100g just arrived.

 

Got it for 20euro ex. tax

 

http://www.werkenmetmerken.nl/nl/molykote_44_medium_siliconenvet/p/11094

 

Ordered the ring from Hempstead and when the ring arrives the episode of ;

 

LUBE and RING the Warthog

 

will begin :)

 

God that sounds so wrong....

[CookPassBabtridge]

My Molykote 44 Medium 100g just arrived.

 

Got it for 20euro ex. tax

 

http://www.werkenmetmerken.nl/nl/molykote_44_medium_siliconenvet/p/11094

 

Ordered the ring from Hempstead and when the ring arrives the episode of ;

 

LUBE and RING the Warthog

 

will begin :)

 

God that sounds so wrong....

 

There was mirth when I told my colleagues I was looking for the appropriate lubricant for my joystick, but that I was concerned about adequate penetration. And I do not even work in a bawdy 1970's hospital.

 

[marluk]

Thanks, friends. The specific danger I envisioned was increased wear; I agree that it probably won't explode. :p

 

The centre is stiffer without them (they help when stick is pulled), but that's fine since my stick is extended. It makes the centre more defined which is nice if you, as did, have a small bit of play at the centre.

 

I think that pressure on ball joint and o ring will increase. In that manner, possibly your grease could sooner slip away. Lack of grease and increased preassure could also increase wear, indeed.

 

But I'm not sure if this could evolve in serious problem. Maybe your oring will die sooner.

Anyway, don't forget to lube your stick regulary :)

[Corrigan]

I think that pressure on ball joint and o ring will increase. In that manner, possibly your grease could sooner slip away. Lack of grease and increased preassure could also increase wear, indeed.

 

But I'm not sure if this could evolve in serious problem. Maybe your oring will die sooner.

Anyway, don't forget to lube your stick regulary :)

 

Thanks for your input.

 

I agree, obviously, with your observation that it puts more stress on the ball joint and o-ring. I decided to put the springs back in to test how much stiffer the stick became, and it was actually quite considerable. I've always thought that those piddly little springs were completely dominated by the big one anyway, so it wouldn't make that much difference, but it does.

 

So, I decided to leave them in.

[shadowlin]

Do anyone have idea what kind of glue is used to glue the stock rubber ring on?

It seems to be sticky and removable(be easy to change the rubber ring)

[hansangb]

Corrigan,

Did you try taking the main spring out? I don't know if you already did that or not. But w/o the main spring, the joystick is damn near perfect for me (especially for the Huey)

 

hsb

[Corrigan]

I tried that years ago, and I thought it was too floppy. Also, now my stick is extended by a decimetre or so, so it'd be even worse.

With all the springs and the extension, I actually think it's pretty damn spot on in terms of restoring force.

[marluk]

I tried that years ago, and I thought it was too floppy. Also, now my stick is extended by a decimetre or so, so it'd be even worse.

With all the springs and the extension, I actually think it's pretty damn spot on in terms of restoring force.

 

Maybe you could use little shorter extension? I also use ext of about 10cm and thinking to get the second one but little shorter.

 

I've read somewhere that 7.5 cm is perfect for planes, 15cm for helicopters and 10cm is trade off on both sides.

Edited September 26, 2014 by marluk

[CookPassBabtridge]

Just for info for those in UK, I bought a 100g tube of Molykote 44M from Sil-Mid, Its about the size of a family tube of toothpaste, and came shipped with enough polystyrene to protect high explosive. Cost £8 shipping, they fed-exed it overnight. Complete overkill, but bloody rapid service. I now have enough lube to keep me in slippery warthogs for years.

[CookPassBabtridge]

Just an update, took the hog apart, cleaned out the grease. I didn't realise the ball popped open so easily, left the wires etc intact and didn't unplug or desolder anything. Once all clean I put some of the molykote 44 in, some on the small inner ball, some on the outer ball and some inside the cup and on the lip of the cup. Then a little on the inside of the pressure ring, and out it all back together.

 

As I am new to this kind of thing I was worried I might break something or screw it up, but it was fine and the stick is now way smoother. I can even exert a little downward pressure when moving it and its ok.

 

There is still a little clunk as it goes across those ridges in the ball, but I am not going to sandpaper it at this stage.

 

I was surprised at how thin and how little grease was actually inside, I am not surprised it was sticky at all. I was expecting to need a cloth to get it all out, as it was, some cotton buds did the job - thats how little was in there.

 

Anyway its a lot better now. I don't know how long it will last, but I am hoping that as its a lot thicker it will be a while before I have to open her up again. Plus I still have most of the tube left :D Cheers all for the advice

[Corrigan]

My stick suddenly developed a "clunk", but I cured that by opening it up and rotating the main spring a bit. Are you sure it's due to the ridges?