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Posted

Hot Tip:Look up the documentation of your motherboard - usually it contains a list of 100% supported ram.

Than choose the best of them or simply pass this info in a new posting.

Posted

Ok here is what I'm looking at

 

CPU: i5 2500k @3.30ghz OC'd to 4-4.3ghz

Motherboard: Currently undecided on what brand (Asus/Gigabyte/ASRock) looking something along the lines of http://www.ebuyer.com/288926

GPU: ATI 6970 @2gb vram

PSU: Corsair TX650 http://www.ebuyer.com/257232

RAM: http://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-PC3-10666-RipjawsX-7-7-7-21-Channel/dp/B004I789CM/

Cooling: Corsair H60

 

All together should be under £800 (inc OS)

Posted

Indeed, you are looking for trouble if you go out and buy RAM without checking its compatibility first.

 

Also, while your PSU is okay power wise, it is not modular at all. When you start trying to put things together, this will really mess up attempts at cable management as you will have quite a few extra cables sitting in your case taking up space (this severely affects airflow, which you still need even with water cooling). To fix this issue, I would recommend either the Corsair AX850 or OCZ ZT750.

 

Both of these supplies also come in 650 Watt models, however I would not recommend them as they are a bit weak. 750 Watt is really an optimal configuration, especially with the added load that an OCed proc is going to present.

If you aim for the sky, you will never hit the ground.

Posted
I would recommend either the Corsair AX850

 

Seconded.

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Daniel "EtherealN" Agorander | Даниэль "эфирныйн" Агорандер

Intel i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz, ASUS Sabertooth P67, 8GB Corsair Vengeance @ 1600MHz, ASUS GTX 560Ti DirectCU II 1GB, Samsung 830series 512GB SSD, Corsair AX850w, two BENQ screens and TM HOTAS Warthog

DCS: A-10C Warthog FAQ | DCS: P-51D FAQ | Remember to read the Forum Rules |

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| Life of a Game Tester
Posted

Built a rig for a friend with that ASUS mobo. Nice board, no problems, nice BIOS GUI. Seemed a good sturdy build.

Having been a long time Gigabyte user after a spell with ASUS up to the 965 chipset boards I might well go back when building a rig soon.

 

Anyway, other than the advice mentioned about consulting your memory QVL in the motherboard's manual, don't skimp on PSU. You will be thankful in the long run if you get something with enough juice, froma respected maker, it will also allow more efficency and subsequently cut some electricity bills down!

I got a Corsair HX850 and it's a great PSU and should easily see me into the next build and possibly another at a later date. If I had to make a choice between Corsair and OCZ, it'd be Corsair every time.

Corsair 550D / Be Quiet 650W Pro 10 / ASUS P8Z77-V Pro / Intel i5 3570K / 16GB Kingston HyperX 1600 MHz / EVGA GTX 970 SC ACX2 4GB / 128GB Samsung 830 / RME HDSPe Multiface 2 / 1TB Samsung F3 / Prolimatech Megalames Rev. B / Windows 10 / BenQ XL2420T / Saitek X52 Pro / Kone Pure+ / Filco Majestouch 2 Ninja

Posted (edited)

PSU Decision

 

Hey Kelusk,

 

if you dont want to spend to much for an overpowered PSU you should not give much about the overall power Descriptions. Important are the currents of the different Voltage

Lines. Especially the 12V Line (mostly for GraphicCard which eat the most power).

 

My English is not very well so here is a good Article about that Topic:

http://www.overclock.net/t/880633/psu-amps-myth

 

My PC (I7 2600K, 3 SATA HDDs and a GTX680) runs with an Antec 520W Gamer

Edition PSU ( 40 Ampere on the 12V Current) for 2 Month. Before the GTX680 it run with a GTX570OC (which is very hungry) for almost a year. I made a two week Test

with two GTX570OC in SLI-Mode without Problems with that PSU (i got only a little sweating when i look on my power-meter cause it tells me that the system needs

up to 610W under highload). Many people told me that i must have minimum a 1000W PSU (over 150€) for the SLI-Mode. For that my Antec PSU (45€) does the job quite

well. ;-)

 

The Second thing is that i would buy only a 80Plus or higher PSU. That means that the PSU have have not much loss while transforming the Voltage for the system.

My PC runs about 50h a week so the bigger invest in the PSU will redeem after a short time.

Edited by MoeZ
Posted
My PC (I7 2600K, 3 SATA HDDs and a GTX680) runs with an Antec 520W Gamer

Edition PSU ( 40 Ampere on the 12V Current) for 2 Month. Before the GTX680 it run with a GTX570OC (which is very hungry) for almost a year. I made a two week Test

with two GTX570OC in SLI-Mode without Problems with that PSU (i got only a little sweating when i look on my power-meter cause it tells me that the system needs

up to 610W under highload). Many people told me that i must have minimum a 1000W PSU (over 150€) for the SLI-Mode. For that my Antec PSU (45€) does the job quite

well. ;-)

 

Yes, you can run PSUs well beyond their rated "limits", however this is extremely inadvisable as you will be putting undue stress on your PSU which will at best, shorten its lifespan by an appreciable amount. At worst it could render your PSU unable to cope with abnormal fluctuations in power which could cause damage to the rest of your computer. Do your research before you buy anything, and just FYI the typical recommended max load of a PSU for a "standard" enthusiast rig (two HDDs, two SSDs, a single GPU, I7-2xxxk-3xxxk, 16 GB of memory) is somewhere around 800 Watts.

 

The Second thing is that i would buy only a 80Plus or higher PSU. That means that the PSU have have not much loss while transforming the Voltage for the system.

My PC runs about 50h a week so the bigger invest in the PSU will redeem after a short time.

 

Also remember that the PSU's are certified under 85% (IIRC) max load. So the 80 Plus Gold certification won't mean squat to your power efficiency if you are running too far below max load (Don't buy a 1000W PSU if you are only going to be doing a typical non OCed single GPU setup for a desktop computer).

If you aim for the sky, you will never hit the ground.

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