JaseGill Posted October 4, 2013 Posted October 4, 2013 Hi all, I'm thinking of building a collective for use with the Heli's in the sim. The one thing I find difficult to get my head round is how one keeps the collective in place without the brake that some I've seen here have? Also how would one adjust tension on this, I'm not sure how the mechanics of that works. I'd like to keep it Sim independent and probably use a Leo Bodnar board so any help on mechanics (I can do electronics easily) would be much appreciated. J. Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other, Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro. Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)
MTFDarkEagle Posted October 4, 2013 Posted October 4, 2013 JG, How I would attack it.. 1) The collective head: any way you can think of (real life, electronics box with switches, whatever). 2) Linkage to rotation point: How solid do you want it to be? You can make it pretty solid with PVC piping and such (talk to BIGNEWY). I would use metal piping with ballbearings for rotation. 3) Tension: That I'd have to think about and is dependant on the actual mechanics that you decided to build. 4) In terms of interfacing it's so easy, as you say: leo bodnar board. Get a potmeter (or better a hall sensor). One way of keeping the collective in place: Gas spring. Hope this can get you up to speed. Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread
PeterP Posted October 4, 2013 Posted October 4, 2013 (edited) start here > BIGNEWY'S Collective project 2013 and here > KA-50 collective: another picture-tale to get some inspiration how to solve it easialy with a counterwight and implement even a functional collective-brake/twist-throttle. Edited October 4, 2013 by PeterP
ED Team BIGNEWY Posted October 4, 2013 ED Team Posted October 4, 2013 (edited) Some good advice there PeterP :) Some of my older pictures have vanished into the digital abyss but still have some pictures in the gallery Gallery The counter weight is the best way to go, but I ran out of room for one as my pit is low to the ground so I ended up using just the friction method and a window hinge :) If you need any advice ask away edit PeterP inspired me to update my collective thread :) Edited October 7, 2013 by BIGNEWY Forum rules - DCS Crashing? Try this first - Cleanup and Repair - Discord BIGNEWY#8703 - Youtube - Patch Status Windows 11, NVIDIA MSI RTX 3090, Intel® i9-10900K 3.70GHz, 5.30GHz Turbo, Corsair Hydro Series H150i Pro, 64GB DDR @3200, ASUS ROG Strix Z490-F Gaming, PIMAX Crystal
JaseGill Posted October 7, 2013 Author Posted October 7, 2013 Thanks guys. Some seriously good work there that I'd seen before and definitely what I aspire to. The Gas Strut idea I really like the look of. I guess its finding the right one with the right tension (if that's the right word) is the big question. If I have more to ask I will, I reckon I wont get close to either of yours but I will have a bloody good go. Thanks, J. Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other, Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro. Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)
DeJohn Posted October 10, 2013 Posted October 10, 2013 I'm in the process of finishing a collective made out of some left over PVC, a few project boxes from radio shack and a saitek throttle quadrant I had for FSX. How I solved the staying put issue without having to crank down on the friction knob was to put some old fishing sinkers I had in the opposite end of the collective as a counter weight. Now I only bearly have the friction know tight.
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted October 11, 2013 Posted October 11, 2013 If you want a cheap and easy solution here's mine (shameless plug)! http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2711990/Re_A_Good_Joystick_to_Hack#Post2711990 http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad
hannibal Posted October 13, 2013 Posted October 13, 2013 i spent 3 months in 2007 building a crude collective that sandwiched wood with rubber pads on wood to hold the collective in position. Try to google "plastic collar clamps". after seeing someone's design on hovercontrol, how they held their grip assembly in place, it inspired me make a version 2 collective in a cleaner buld find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179
jay43 Posted October 13, 2013 Posted October 13, 2013 Just a heads up keep in mind that a spring has 2 open ends to it so there is no need to go cutting joysticks in half to get the spring off. Think of the spring to be more like an extended version of a key ring, hook the open end around the shaft and just twist it until it comes off, reverse the order to put it back on. Eagles may soar high but weasel's don't get sucked into jet engines. System Spec. Monitors: Samsung 570DX & Rift CV1 Mobo: MSI Godlike gaming X-99A CPU: Intel i7 5930K @ 3.50Ghz RAM: 32gb GPU: EVGA Nvidia GTX 980Ti VR Ready Cooling: Predator 360 Power Supply: OCZ ZX Series 80 Plus Gold Drives: Samsung SSD's 1tb, 500g plus others with OS Win10 64 bit
JaseGill Posted October 14, 2013 Author Posted October 14, 2013 Just a heads up keep in mind that a spring has 2 open ends to it so there is no need to go cutting joysticks in half to get the spring off. Think of the spring to be more like an extended version of a key ring, hook the open end around the shaft and just twist it until it comes off, reverse the order to put it back on. Thanks for the heads up. Much appreciated, J. Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other, Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro. Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)
JaseGill Posted October 14, 2013 Author Posted October 14, 2013 If you want a cheap and easy solution here's mine (shameless plug)! http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2711990/Re_A_Good_Joystick_to_Hack#Post2711990 That looks great. So cool. Thats the sort of level of workmanship we can all strive for. Not sure mine will be as good, not even started yet, but I'll post here whatever I can. J. Rig: Home Built, water cooled,i5 2500K @ 4.3Ghz, ASUS P8P67Pro Mobo, 8GB Patriot Viper 2 Sector 5 RAM, MSI Nvidia GTX970 4GB Gaming OC, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Boot, 120GB OCZ Vertex 2e SSD Games (BS & WH), Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB other, Samsung UE37D5000 37" LED TV,EloTouch 1600x1200 secondary, Thrustmaster Warthog No.467, Thrustmaster MFD, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR4 with Track Clip Pro. Ex RAF Aircrew, Real Life Pilot, proud Geek and father of one :)
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