MMjoy

[rabidscoobie]

ok interesting, I didn't know! Well I did get it to work with the new ones but I couldn't get the twist and the push button to work together. It was either or. I switched back to use my old stand alone encoders not the new ones like yours. Mqybe that's why it started working. I did almost post a Arduino library link for ya just because I saw it on the Arduino site. It was for the KY 040 encoder and had script for it ready to go. Maybe that might be the way to go. Just a thought.

 

I know nothing of the scripting stuff.

What are those other encoders your using?

At this point I'll just buy some regular ones the everyone knows works for this purpose.

 

Do you know the difference bewteen these Im using and the EC11 encoders? I found a couple of others that built a similar box to what I want using the EC11 and Pro micro.

 

EDIT:

Yeah I cant get both the rotary and the SW to work together, its one or the other.

Edited December 30, 2018 by rabidscoobie

[Sokol1_br]

As I said above, wire switch separated from encoder in MMjoy2 inputs.

 

2 wires for switch in one row and column pins of matrix.

3 wires for encoder in another row and column pins of matrix.

 

Don't mix then. The PCB under this encoder is done for Serial connection.

[rabidscoobie]

As I said above, wire switch separated from encoder in MMjoy2 inputs.

 

2 wires for switch in one row and column pins of matrix.

3 wires for encoder in another row and column pins of matrix.

 

Don't mix then. The PCB under this encoder is done for Serial connection.

 

I removed the PCB on one of them.

And I am wiring the encoder just as you said here.

 

I got the encoder working but not the switch.

If I get the switch working then the encoder doesnt work

[Brewnix]

As I said above, wire switch separated from encoder in MMjoy2 inputs.

 

2 wires for switch in one row and column pins of matrix.

3 wires for encoder in another row and column pins of matrix.

 

Don't mix then. The PCB under this encoder is done for Serial connection.

 

I know nothing of the scripting stuff.

What are those other encoders your using?

At this point I'll just buy some regular ones the everyone knows works for this purpose.

 

Do you know the difference bewteen these Im using and the EC11 encoders? I found a couple of others that built a similar box to what I want using the EC11 and Pro micro.

 

EDIT:

Yeah I cant get both the rotary and the SW to work together, its one or the other.

 

"Don't mix them" I apologize I didn't know that Thanks Sokol1.

 

Rabidscoobie so the encoders I bought I got off Ebay. seven apiece from over seas. I did not look at to what type of encoder they are I just grabbed them and after ae few weeks I got all 6 working in a matrix. So how different are my old ones to the KY 040 I don't know. I would believe that the encoder you pulled off the PCB is standard and wired the same as mine. My main goal was to get the KY 040 working with my known working matrix but as Sokol1 stated its for a different setup with the PCB.

[rabidscoobie]

"Don't mix them" I apologize I didn't know that Thanks Sokol1.

 

Rabidscoobie so the encoders I bought I got off Ebay. seven apiece from over seas. I did not look at to what type of encoder they are I just grabbed them and after ae few weeks I got all 6 working in a matrix. So how different are my old ones to the KY 040 I don't know. I would believe that the encoder you pulled off the PCB is standard and wired the same as mine. My main goal was to get the KY 040 working with my known working matrix but as Sokol1 stated its for a different setup with the PCB.

 

Yeah I dont see why they would be different without the board. Might tinker with it later.

 

If the encoder is working correct should I see them light on the button setup page of MMJOY?

Like I said the encoder is working I just cant see it unless Im in windows joystick and they may have been my problem all along since Im a newbie on the encoders.

[Sokol1_br]

Look in this scheme for MMjoy2 Diode Matrix - switches is connected different than encoder:

 

 

Switches have their diode connected to Matrix column.

 

Encoder have their diodes connected to Matrix rows.

[rabidscoobie]

Look in this scheme for MMjoy2 Diode Matrix - switches is connected different than encoder:

 

 

Switches have their diode connected to Matrix column.

 

Encoder have their diodes connected to Matrix rows.

 

Well that may have been my whole issue.

I didnt realize that.

 

Looking at the diagram you gave,

The encoder diode shows them connected to columns.????

And switch diode connected to rows.???

 

But what your saying is the opposite. :huh:

That confuses me.

Ive only been trying to connect the 1 encoder with the push down switch on it.

 

Also do the diodes on the encoder go towards encoder but switches diode towards the Pro Micro?

[Sokol1_br]

The encoder diode shows them connected to columns.????

And switch diode connected to rows.???

But what your saying is the opposite.

 

I think I confuse this scheme - labeling is misleading, in left side say one thing, in right another. :)

 

Anyway follow the scheme and diode orientation, that is different from switch (button) to encoder.

[rabidscoobie]

I think I confuse this scheme - labeling is misleading, in left side say one thing, in right another. :)

 

Anyway follow the scheme and diode orientation, that is different from switch (button) to encoder.

 

Ok thanks.

Yea at first that scheme was confusing me but after you explained how they work I got to looking and saw it different from what you said.

I believe in "Better Safe Than Sorry" rule....:thumbup:

 

For the encoder and testing purposes, if Im just testing one encoder are the diodes still required for testing a single encoder?

In my tests I think I had the diodes going opposite direction from scheme.:doh:

[Brewnix]

Ok thanks.

Yea at first that scheme was confusing me but after you explained how they work I got to looking and saw it different from what you said.

I believe in "Better Safe Than Sorry" rule....:thumbup:

 

For the encoder and testing purposes, if Im just testing one encoder are the diodes still required for testing a single encoder?

In my tests I think I had the diodes going opposite direction from scheme.:doh:

 

Your ok testing one encoder with out diodes. Its when you add a second row or column to the matrix is when its safe to have diodes

[rabidscoobie]

Your ok testing one encoder with out diodes. Its when you add a second row or column to the matrix is when its safe to have diodes

 

Thanks.

 

In the process of designing my layout and all the buttons I want for sure I was going through MMJOY buttons settings.

The one setting Im not sure about how it is intended to work is the "Shift" setting.

 

The bit I read on sounds like it acts a 2 button press. Meaning I push shift button and that acts a single button that is set to push 2 buttons. ??

 

But what I'm wondering is if there is a way in MMJOY to set the shift as a mode button similar to the mode rotary on the Saitek x52 sticks. default mode the buttons are programs to a set of keybinds,press the mode(shift) button and the buttons now are like having another separate set of buttons.

 

So what is the shift setting exactly and is it possible to get the mode type setting in MMJOY?

Knowing this will help me better plan the buttons and such on my button box.

 

 

EDIT:

 

So I finally got the encoder and SW working together. Whats been messing me up is that if I dont select any encoders in the ENCODER BOX it will light up 2 red buttons but once I select the encoder button ranges in the encoder boxes, the red button boxes no longer light up making me think it wasnt working. But if I check in button tester and windows joystick the button register as they are assigned.They also work in a game.

 

My question is this intended way the light up boxes are suppose to do after you tell MMJOY which buttons for the encoder?

Edited January 1, 2019 by rabidscoobie

[Brewnix]

Yes after encoder was selected they don't light up in red boxes anymore. Thats what the button tester was for. Cause it senses the encoders. But if you were to place your multimeter and check the switch across all pins. Middle pin to outside pins you see a momentary shorts on both pins at once. This why in normal button state you see both buttons light at once its getting signal from both traces. When encoder is selected it reads the encoder as intended digitally I guess I am not the exact expert on it but the twist left and right have 2 different signatures. And the shift function sounds like asyou described a way to assign virtual buttons to one button. I have never used the shift function. But I am glad you got it working for MMjoy is cool piece of software.

Edited January 1, 2019 by Brewnix

[rabidscoobie]

Yes after encoder was selected they don't light up in red boxes anymore. Thats what the button tester was for. Cause it senses the encoders. But if you were to place your multimeter and check the switch across all pins. Middle pin to outside pins you see a momentary shorts on both pins at once. This why in normal button state you see both buttons light at once its getting signal from both traces. When encoder is selected it reads the encoder as intended digitally I guess I am not the exact expert on it but the twist left and right have 2 different signatures. And the shift function sounds like asyou described a way to assign virtual buttons to one button. I have never used the shift function. But I am glad you got it working for MMjoy is cool piece of software.

 

Yes it is.

I do fine with making button matrix and axis connections.

I mean couple years ago I got my hands on 2 CH Combat sticks and a CH throttle for cheap but they were gameport version.

Using Pro Micro and MMJOY I completely redone the wiring added hats and all sorts of stuff,even converted one of the sticks to a lefty(space games).

 

But these encoders had me messed up then my main whole issue of not getting the encoders to work was I didnt realize MMJOY stops doing the light after you tell it.

I am almost %100 sure I had it right the 1st or 2nd time.

 

Thanks again,hopefully now I get my wiring diagram done and no more problems..lol.

[rabidscoobie]

Wanted to thank everyone for helping me.

I have it all together and working now with 11 buttons,4 3 way momentary toggles, 4 encoders with the buttons working.

 

Had an issue tho with the diodes that I have never had before. I had put them everywhere needed on the buttons but after about the 3rd diode none of my buttons worked. Did alot of trouble shooting before I found it was the diode.Removed diode and that buttons would work but none others in matrix until I removed diode.

Yes I made sure they in correct direction but for shits and giggles I switched the direction and still nadda.

 

I never figured out why the buttons wouldnt work with diodes. After some researching my understanding was that I wouldnt get any ghosting until 3 or 4 button presses at once. So I just didnt use diodes and after setting up the buttons there was no ghosting.

 

Played a few games and no ghosting. but for a button box I dont think I'd ever need 3 or more buttons presses at once.

 

The LED strip really isnt that bright,camera just picks them up really well.

Edited January 5, 2019 by rabidscoobie

[Sokol1_br]

What diode you use?

[rabidscoobie]

What diode you use?

 

Honestly I cant remember.

I bought a big roll of them a couple years back, its the same type you told(I think) me to use when I was doing my old gameport CH sticks.

 

So far those diodes worked in my left and right combat sticks,ch throttle, a couple of pedal boxes I made for guitar to pc recording and a sequential shifter I made. Only had the issue when building this button box.

 

Ok just looked in my order history and the diodes are "1n4148 switching diode"

[Sokol1_br]

1N4148 is the most recommended for joystick matrix.

 

The only explanation for buttons don't work with diode is wrong diode orientation, or mix rows and columns...

 

But if you don't have ghost issue leave as is. :)

[rabidscoobie]

1N4148 is the most recommended for joystick matrix.

 

The only explanation for buttons don't work with diode is wrong diode orientation, or mix rows and columns...

 

But if you don't have ghost issue leave as is. :)

 

I checked the orientation and was correct.

 

I also took 3 extra buttons and took jumper leads and tried different ways and they would not work.

Whats really weird to me is that I put the diodes on the encoders and they worked,just not the buttons.

[rabidscoobie]

1N4148 is the most recommended for joystick matrix.

 

The only explanation for buttons don't work with diode is wrong diode orientation, or mix rows and columns...

 

But if you don't have ghost issue leave as is. :)

 

Im was curious about something I kept on seeing when I was trying to figure out my encoder wiring.

I saw several diagrams were others were wiring the encoders to the axis pins and buttons to the normal pins on the pro micro. I dont know if they were using MMJOY or a sketch either.

 

If I wasnt using the axis pins for axis is it possible to use those pins for example encoders then wire buttons to the normal pins to have more than the 6x6 matrix?

 

Reason I ask is the current box I built is for racing sims but I also play flight sims and space games. After my last button box I have plenty of extra parts to complete another but thought about using a couple more encoders and a decent amount of buttons.

 

Thanks.

[Sokol1_br]

MMjoy2 firmware allow you use Arduino pins for axes or buttons input, but not both at the same time.

 

If you are not using axes, in MMjoy2Setup change the pins set for axes input (AE) for buttons (BM) inputs.

[rabidscoobie]

MMjoy2 firmware allow you use Arduino pins for axes or buttons input, but not both at the same time.

 

If you are not using axes, in MMjoy2Setup change the pins set for axes input (AE) for buttons (BM) inputs.

 

Ok does that mean if I use AXIS input for buttons I cant use them for axis also at same time but I can still also use the button pinouts just as long as I only use buttons?

 

Because if so that would make wiring the encoders in a bit easier seperate from the button matrix.

[Sokol1_br]

No, if don't using axes inputs, you are just are increasing buttons matrix size and total of buttons number, not creating an different input type.

 

Encoder are - for firmware, just 2 buttons, hence need be integrated in buttons matrix.

 

Don't share Encoder left/right buttons (3) wires for their push button switch (2) wires, use exclusive wires for this push button switch.

[rabidscoobie]

No, if don't using axes inputs, you are just are increasing buttons matrix size and total of buttons number, not creating an different input type.

 

Encoder are - for firmware, just 2 buttons, hence need be integrated in buttons matrix.

 

Don't share Encoder left/right buttons (3) wires for their push button switch (2) wires, use exclusive wires for this push button switch.

 

Thank you.

Well thats good, I had no idea I could do that.

Yeah I knew about not sharing the encoder buttons.

 

You must make alot of controllers with MMJOY to understand this as much as you do. With exception to any posts you do on all the forums there really isnt a lot of info on exactly how MMJOY fully works and what you can and cant do with it in full detail.

 

Thanks to you Im learning it though.

[Mortisrose]

Thanks everyone that have helped me create this cougar throttle mod with MMjoy:

 

 

 

 

It is now a standalone controller with 14 more switches(2x 3 position switches) and 3 extra axes on the sides of the base. It uses a Leonardo for the switches (button matrix) on the base and a pro-micro bypassing the old 8-bit electronics for the throttle grip.

 

Everything works good except the hall sensor I tried to use for the throttle acts not much better than a switch. I'm using the old potentiometer for the throttle now. I tested the leads on the sensor: vcc to ground is 4.6v, vcc to output is 3.6v and increases to 3.96v when the magnet is up against the sensor.

 

 

The hall sensor is an a1324lua-t and the magnets are N52 12 x 1mm disk stack together. The sensor does not seem to be very sensitive at all; I need at least 4-5 stacked to get any a change in output, other magnets I found had no effect on the sensor. I've tried two different pro-micros and 1324 sensors and with same result.

Edited January 10, 2019 by Mortisrose

[rel4y]

I am using Allegro 1324s in one of my Cougar mods and it works flawlessly. Are you sure that you did not accidentally buy a hall switch Allegro 1234?