MMjoy

[Goblin]

You need to remove the resistor on the miso line of the sensors. And then you put a 10K Ohm resistor between the miso and vcc, on the controller.

I made my PCB like this, for the teensy2.

[FIN_Centurion1]

Thanks Sokol! I think I have it wired correctly but when I have both connected at the same time it stops working. From reading other posts I understood there are some extra resistors on the sensor PCB that need to be removed (on the miso pin), but I am hesitant to try anything without good info.

I'll post some pics of the gimbal when I get home.

 

Edit: sniped by the goblin :) yeah I read that but I am unsure which resistor that is on the PCB.

 

Edit2: what is the best method for removing the resistor? Just use the soldering iron to hear the soldering and pluck it away?

Edited December 15, 2018 by FIN_Centurion1

[Goblin]

I have used TLE 5010 sensors with different PCB layout. On the first, I just cut the line on the PCB. The other, I just de soldered the resistor. A tweezer to hold, and pry, the resistor, and a soldering iron.

I’ll have a look and see if I have any sensors of your design.

[Goblin]

I found a similar sensor PCB layout.

It’s the resistor marked in red.

 

Edit: I should say that I measured with a multimeter, and the left side (in pic) of that resistor goes to VCC (+ pin) and the right side of the resistor goes to the miso pin (3rd pin from the top).

Edited December 15, 2018 by Goblin
Clarification

[rel4y]

I have 10k pullups for MISO and CS on all my 5011s directly on the sensor PCB and I use up to 5 simultaneously per Arduino.

 

Is the strong 1k pullup really causing these issues? Are you sure you connected the two CS lines to different pins on the Arduino?

[Goblin]

All I know I have issues with the signals if I don’t remove the resistors and add one on the controller. I got that info from the author of MMJoy.

[Sokol1_br]

This matter is very confuse, the guy who made the scheme I post above use Chinese TLE5010 PCB as receive from China, and use more than one.

 

Anyway I remember that when Mega_MOZG are active in SimHQ their scheme for TLE change with time, removing components from PCB... but for whatever reason most people use early schemes, even in IL2.ru topic where they have more contact with MegaMOZG. Related:

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/4664-mmjoy2-%D0%B1%D0%B5%D1%81%D0%BF%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%82%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%BE%D1%88%D0%B8%D0%B2%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B8-%D1%81%D0%BE%D1%84%D1%82-%D0%B4%D0%BB%D1%8F-%D1%81%D0%B0%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%BE%D0%B3%D0%BE-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BB%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%B4%D0%B6%D0%BE%D0%B9%D1%81%D1%82%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0/?do=findComment&comment=656537

 

Seems that are not the "right scheme" but the one that work. I don't know what. :)

 

I know that this DIY PCB work, notice some jumpers in resistor places.

 

https://i.imgur.com/FGGIEpV.jpg

Edited December 16, 2018 by Sokol1_br

[FIN_Centurion1]

I did like Goblin suggested and now my sensors work! Yay!

I noticed though that if I use an USB extension cable one of my sensors stops working. I guess I need to get a power adapter for the Leonardo so it gets enough juice.

[Sokol1_br]

Just FYI - 74HC165 Shift Register PCB's from China (New Hope in Aliexpress) has their serial connection pins labeled inverted:

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4453467/re-mmjoy-mmjoy2-build-your-own-usb-controller#Post4453467

[slowmover]

After some reading and fallowing your instraction i made something to work but i still have problem.Button 4-5-6-7-8 is working perfect. Button 1-2-3 in not working correct.

When i press 1 or 2 or 3 MMJOY shows that i press all of them(1-2-3). Any idea ???

 

Edited December 20, 2018 by slowmover

[Sokol1_br]

R0 is a jumper, can use a 0 Oms resistor or a just a length of wire.

[rabidscoobie]

I need some help figuring something out on a button box Im about to build.

 

I have a good idea now using the Pro Micro with buttons and switches and the wiring.

What I cant figure out or not even sure if its possible with the Pro and MMJOY2 is I want to light an LED on a button press then if I press again it turns it off.

 

EX:Lets say I wire a button for start engine. Normal state light is off,press to start engine and the led lights.Press again to turn off engine and light goes off.

 

I tried in the past but couldnt get it to work. I can easily make an LED light up as a power light showing that I plugged the controller into USB but not make them work with buttons.

 

So any sites,diagrams or/and info would be great.

 

EDIT: ALso all I have are momentary buttons and switches.

Edited December 21, 2018 by rabidscoobie

[Goblin]

Try using the same GND pin.

Not sure it will make a difference. It shouldn’t. But you never know...

[slowmover]

I fix it.I make this changes and everything is okay :-)The problem was on VCC. Next step try to connect two more shift register.

 

 

[Jyge]

I am following the thread and I am now toying with an idea of building myself couple of MFD frames, instead of buying the thrustmaster stuff. It is not really a matter of money, I just need to do something...

 

 

Now I came up with couple of Pro Micro boards from amazon https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DLXTHFM/ref=pe_3044161_185740101_TE_item

 

 

For one MFD I need 20 buttons, then I thought about one rotary and 4-5 three position rockerswitches (On/Off/On). So it should make 28-30 buttons and 1 axis?

 

 

I have couple of questions:

 

-I already tried mmjoy and updated the firmware. I made my first small test with couple of buttons on a bredboard. Firstly I tried to use a led instead of a diode (did not have one handy). It did not work - is it because LED has so much resistance? Well anyway without the diodes the boards work.

-I think I will go for a matrix solution here, I am not so keen on getting the components for shift registers and soldering them together. Are there not ready shift registers available? Both of my MFDs will have an own board - I think it should be easier that way?

 

 

I think I did everything right in MMJoy and got the button responses. Now I changed the names of the board, but Windows game controller setup still lists MMJoyReset or something as a device there? When I go for properties in Game Controller Setup I get some fancy error message? Is there a further step here that I need to do?

 

 

EDIT: I see I need to assign the buttons as well - however, I still have the device name MMJreset in Windows game controller setup?

Edited December 21, 2018 by Jyge

[FIN_Centurion1]

I know this question has come up before in this thread but I have some questions about cables I've been wondering

 

1) Should every single cable be shielded, or is it only longer stretches of cables that need to be shielded?

2) What is a good type of single shielded cable (preferably with some kind of international name)

3) How long cables can you get away with, provided you use shielded cables of a reasonable thickness? Is 0,5m fine?

4) I wanted to use a single Arduino to drive both my rudder pedals and joystick gimbal as they are permanently attached to my home cockpit, but for ease of service I thought it might be a good idea to use female DB15 vga connectors close to the sensors and running VGA cables of appropriate length from the device to the Arduino. From my understanding VGA cables are shielded? Or is there a better cable type?

[Goblin]

The problem was on VCC. Next step try to connect two more shift register.

 

Great! I guess you made a small misstake in the drawing. ;)

(The VCC to GND)

 

I followed this drawing for multiple registers.

 

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/master/img/Hardware%20connection/Shift%20register%20project.jpg

[Sokol1_br]

For one MFD I need 20 buttons, then I thought about one rotary and 4-5 three position rockerswitches (On/Off/On). So it should make 28-30 buttons and 1 axis?

 

Yer, you can use up to 8 axes, up to 128 buttons and up to 6 encoders - each take 2 buttons of previous amount.

 

 

I think I did everything right in MMJoy and got the button responses. Now I changed the names of the board, but Windows game controller setup still lists MMJoyReset or something as a device there? When I go for properties in Game Controller Setup I get some fancy error message? Is there a further step here that I need to do?

 

 

EDIT: I see I need to assign the buttons as well - however, I still have the device name MMJreset in Windows game controller setup?

 

After change what you want, number of buttons, axes, device name VIP/PID (optional) ... in MMJoySetup, hit the button "Save settings to device", this will save your configurations in Arduino EPROM, after reset (unplug, plug Arduino) Windows will recognize as conventional joystick.

 

LED - MMjoy2 firmware don't has support for manage LED's together with switches.

 

Support War Thunder only output for handle LED's in similar way to DCS BIOS.

[Jyge]

Yer, you can use up to 8 axes, up to 128

LED - MMjoy2 firmware don't has support for manage LED's together with switches.

 

 

Sorry I am not that deep into electronics, but what I meant is that LED is a diode, right? So instead of 1N4148 I just tried to plug in a LED after the button but it did not want to work - for whatever reason. For what it's worth without the LED I could test a simple 2x1 matrix and MMJoy.

 

 

 

Meanwhile, I have ordered a bunch of 1N4148 diodes, but I would still like to understand why it did not work that way...

[Sokol1_br]

You can't replace 1N4148 with LED's, their function is different.

 

For test few buttons (1 row x 1 column) don't need place diodes diodes.

 

An practical approach for LED, use DPST/DPDT switches - they are two switches side by side operated by one common lever, wire one side in MMjoy matrix or Shift Register, the other side in LED, use external (of Arduino) power source for LED's.

 

Switch up some button in MMjoy is ON, LED is ON, switch down button OFF, LED OFF.

[slowmover]

After two months of studing MMjoy and with your help i think i manage to understand it and make my first arduino board with 3 shift register 74hc165.Ver difficult for a guy who does not knows anything.If i find some free time i would to make a video to help rookies like me.Next step make some better pcbs and see how to programm software on me needs.Many thanks to all of you who helped me.

 

[rabidscoobie]

Button Box

 

Anyone have an easy to follow wiring diagram for rotary encoders using a Pro Micro?

The ones I have are 5 pin encoders.

 

These:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTJH7MS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited December 26, 2018 by rabidscoobie

[Brewnix]

Anyone have an easy to follow wiring diagram for rotary encoders using a Pro Micro?

The ones I have are 5 pin encoders.

 

These:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTJH7MS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

So how are you planning on to interface it with the Promicro? shift register or matrix? there is a githhub for MMjoy with explanation in short. I have a pic earlier in thread that is crude but I can show you a matrix setup.

 

 

 

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki

[rabidscoobie]

So how are you planning on to interface it with the Promicro? shift register or matrix? there is a githhub for MMjoy with explanation in short. I have a pic earlier in thread that is crude but I can show you a matrix setup.

 

 

 

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki

 

Sorry, I forgot to tell how. Ive never used the shift register before and with what Im doing button matrix will be fine, Ive just never used an encoder before. I looked on MMjoy github before that one was kind of confusing to me.

 

In the link above for my encoders they show 5 connections and for just using in games Im not sure all 5 connections are even used. Just by looking at the boards that come on the encoders Im not sure where I need to make the connections to the Pro Micro.

 

I'm sure its simple and I maybe overthinking it....:huh:

 

I under stand what this diagram is showing:

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Connecting-basic-inputs-and-setting-up-software

 

But it is for 3 pins and I dont know which pins I need to use on these and exactly on the board they go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Brewnix]

Ok so I have these encoders you bought. But I have not messed with these ones yet. After your last post I looked closer at the ones you bought and realized they are wired a little different then the original encoders I used. These ones have resistors on the board. I am assuming these are pull up resistors. SO I am gonna have to research and get back too you. Unless someone helps first. I apologize I didn't realize they were built a little different. But at any rate I need to learn it cause I plan to use them too!