Mortisrose Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 That's what I thought at first but it's correct, and the sensor has 324 written on it. Maybe these are defective. I might buy another sensor and see how that works out. i7 7700k, 32 GB RAM, GTX 1080, 500 GB NVMe m.2 SSD, Trackir 3 Pro, Gunfighter Mk I w/MCG; Mod. TM Cougar throttle and Mod. CH Pro Pedals w/Pro Micro + MMjoy2, Nostromo n52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) Set HALL sensor m/c only (Allegro, Honeyweel) are tricky and demand trial and error. How you are testing then? Just with HALL and magnets in hands? In this way don't work, you need HALL fixed, and magnet fixed in a supported turning axis without play. And the tune distance between magnet and sensor. And before test you need calibrate the axis in MMJoySetup (or Windows joy.cpl), even if you have set auto calibration in MMJoySetup, because when connect for first time sensor and magnets are not in optimal position. I use A1324 in a difficult place to fit with limited working angle for magnet, CH PRO Pedals brakes. At first I thought it would not work, very poor response in axes, but re-positioning sensor relative to magnet - the trick is match the "center" of both, and and decreasing the distance between then I achieve around 1000 poits of resolution in brake axis. Edited January 13, 2019 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowmover Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Hello Guyz i tryied to make my own pcb but i did not manage it.Many hours drawing and soldering and no resault.I found a website https://jlcpcb.com/ that you can order low cost pcb.The problem i that i can not converter the lay6 files too gerber files.Has anyone order from here?Or can help me converter the files? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I can convert them tomorrow if you like. But I also posted a howto about that somewhere in this forum. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowmover Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I can convert them tomorrow if you like. But I also posted a howto about that somewhere in this forum. If you can converter them for me it would be great [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 If you can converter them for me it would be great Sure just post a link or archive or PM me. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowmover Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Sure just post a link or archive or PM me. https://ufile.io/9nox3 this is the file i want. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rel4y Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 The file is missing an outline layer. You need to click on the white layer symbol and give your pcb an outer dimension. Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortisrose Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 (edited) Had to shelf the hall sensor for my cougar throttle mod for now as I could not get it to work properly. The old potentiometer is actually working decently in 10-bit with the pro-micro. Currently I'm upgrading the throttle again and pulled everything out as the button matrix was becoming too messy and created this shift register circuit board: It's my first attempt at this and the soldering joints look horrible, but it works. I ran out of 10k resistors and had to double up on 20k's near the top left. And here is the wire diagram I made and used to build CB: Some modifications in the final construction. The purple wires are where I was going to add resistors if it didn't work, the yellow-brown vertical "wires" are where the resistors are on the opposite side. Edited January 27, 2019 by Mortisrose added picture i7 7700k, 32 GB RAM, GTX 1080, 500 GB NVMe m.2 SSD, Trackir 3 Pro, Gunfighter Mk I w/MCG; Mod. TM Cougar throttle and Mod. CH Pro Pedals w/Pro Micro + MMjoy2, Nostromo n52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomVR Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 I assembled everything an it works!!! PCBs work individually in version with 1,2 and 3 chips, I didn't buy version with 4. Daisy chaining works, I connected all three versions together, 6 chips total and it worked. I didn't have spare Leonardo board so I used one from my joystick. Daisy chain: Here you can see assembled PCBs. Nice thing with shift registers is that Mmjoy2 reads button presses in order, matrix is a mess in my case. Switches are going 1 to 8 like in picture, starting from chip on the left in case of multiple chips. I had a problem in the beginning, nothing worked and I thought I messed something up. Problem was, like in most cases a bad connection, one wire on ribbon cable was faulty. I didn't had that problem before but now I know it can happen. One advice on soldering, I recommend to solder first yellow pin headers, then resistor network and then chips and other components. Soldering pads bellow yellow headers are very small and it it easier to solder them first. I didn't have 100nF capacitor so I used bigger 470nF, it worked anyway. 4021 chips are on sockets, you never know when you'll get a faulty chip. It is not necessary, but I started with that practice while I was building guitar pedals and sometimes chips arrived faulty, this way it was easy to replace them. I mistakely ordered 1k resistor networks, I'm gonna guess it won't work? The moment I press any switch, all switches activate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowmover Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 How can i rename the board???Standar name on Game Controlers is MMJoy reset [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabidscoobie Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) How can i rename the board???Standar name on Game Controlers is MMJoy reset In mmjoy, look in right hand upper corner where it says USB name. Change it to what you like then "save sets to device". Unless your doing something different,sorry havent read the last replies. Edited February 3, 2019 by rabidscoobie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortisrose Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Also, if you have more than one MMjoy device you need to change the VID and PID # to something other than 8888 to something like "8887". i7 7700k, 32 GB RAM, GTX 1080, 500 GB NVMe m.2 SSD, Trackir 3 Pro, Gunfighter Mk I w/MCG; Mod. TM Cougar throttle and Mod. CH Pro Pedals w/Pro Micro + MMjoy2, Nostromo n52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowmover Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 In mmjoy, look in right hand upper corner where it says USB name. Change it to what you like then "save sets to device". Unless your doing something different,sorry havent read the last replies. i was only changing the name and not the value..thanks:thumbup: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 i was only changing the name and not the value..thanks If change only name, Windows remember the latest due the Register entry created with VID/PID, so if want change name but no VID/PID need clear (Windows) Register entry first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 (edited) May be a stupid question but I thought I would ask here (instead of beating my head against my desk :-) ). I have my hardware all constructed and set up with MMJoy. Firmware loaded, config loaded and everything works in the Windwso and VKB Button Test Utilities. However, when I go into DCS ... it 'sees' the MMJOY device but does not seem to accept any button presses from it. I can manually map a button (ex: selected Master Caution in the F-18C, went to the MMJOY column, selected assign and selected button 4 from the drop down) but in game nothing from the MMJoy device responds. Is there some magic sauce I need to use? EDIT: It is a Teensy 2.0 USB device. Edited February 21, 2019 by dwpenney Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabidscoobie Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Are you using the actual column for the controller in DCS and not the actual column that says MMJOY? I named my stick something I wanted but in DCS it will list my "Named" stick and a MMJOY column. The MMJOY column does nothing for me,only the column that says my stick name. Hope that makes sense. Best I can explain it. I didnt do anything differently than what i would with any other stick inside DCS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 I think I understand. I named my device MBB_V01 and that column shows up in the DCS device list. I select that and try to map something and it does not respond. I am not sure of any way to trouble shoot this. Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 If it helps, here is what I have: And what I am seeing in the VKB Button Tester: And in DCS (not the Alt was as I was alt-tabbing to get the screenshot): Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwpenney Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I may have it 'fixed'. I was using a powered USB hub but going direct to the motherboard has it working! Woo! Fridge ---------- Things which do you no good in aviation: 1) Altitude above you; 2) Runway behind you; 3) Fuel in the truck; 4) The airspeed you don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabidscoobie Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Yeah I just read your last couple posts and was going to reply the USB thing. I just finished up 2 button boxes and had the same issue. I have 2 powered USB hubs, 1 new and 1 from about 15 years ago. The newer one doesnt work with the Pro Micros but the 15 yr old does. Glad it working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ice_pdb Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Mmjoy2 170606? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomVR Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 Does anyone know the documention on how the AXIS to Button works? I have it setup and when the joystick enters the range it fires the hardware button red, but when leaving the range the red square doesn't turn off, like the button stays on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 (edited) Does anyone know the documention on how the AXIS to Button works? I have it setup and when the joystick enters the range it fires the hardware button red, but when leaving the range the red square doesn't turn off, like the button stays on. Can you explain a little more about your setup and hardware. And what function in DCS you are trying to activate? Are you trying to use a "potentiometer " to activate a button? Edited February 25, 2019 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 (edited) Are you trying to use a "potentiometer " to activate a button? Yes, the function "axis to button" use band of an analog axis (of potentiometer, contact less sensor) for activate a button. E.g. If axis are between 95% and 100%, button 10 is pressed. I guess that issue is with button mode, may he set as "switch", then button remain On until move throttle back for less than 95% and again for this band for turn OFF. An awkward and undesired operation. Probable are an suitable button mode for this function, need experiment. BTW- Don't use small bands, eg. 99% to 100%, analog axis reading vary a bit if axis is increasing or decreasing, difficulty 95% of pot physical course match 95% of axis reading. I don't test this feature with MMjoy2, but using "axis2button" in Joy2key the practical result is less than in theory. Edited February 26, 2019 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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