JasonJ

told ya ;) Pro, cheers Just a observation for the beginner, the files ones ending with xxxx...in.sdef are the ones you hear whilst INSIDE the cokpit. The others are for when you're using any external views.

I did this myself by manually copy/pasting sound files. Thanks for the more elegant solution. dl'd and WIN

Hi, I had exact same question and same problem at 4am. When neighbours called police thinking there was a 417 in progress. :music_whistling: Yes I know current sound model is realistic, but flying an armed Kamov in the living room is not always neighbour friendly. When engine and blade sound is at a tollerable volume, the guns are way too loud. Good in the daytime, but not late at night. :) I reduced inside view guns by -12dB and outside view guns by -6dB. Sure there is probably a script to reduce that, but not found it yet, edit: yep now posted below due to my crappy solution haha!

Usually that's when part or parts of the main rotor blade(s) are missing. From a sudden change in attitude/movement and the blades collide or get shot out or you tap a building or something. Parts of the blades missing is bad, really bad, balance-wise that is and will make the aircraft shake like an iPhone in a blender. I love the damage model in BS. So many things can go wrong and really make you feal like your in a real aircraft with all the dangers. I just wish trees were solid, that's all.

I agree with you Blaster454, except I thought in pre 1.0.2 SP missions the wingmen were also speaking to me in Russian. I can't read subtitles in battle sometimes.:cry: I wish they spoke in English to. edit: On that note, is there anyway to re-display the last message? Sorry for misunderstanding.... By "sorted" I meant that Betty was in English, which is what topic starter wanted.

sorted.... English Betty for all coalitions

The fidelity of this sim doesn't cease to impress me.

I found Ctrl + Pause/Break key useful in game to show current FPS if you want some simple feedback how your tweaking/testing has changed performance.

Keep pressing "5" to cycle through the screens until the map comes up. The "blue circles" - enemy range indicator wasn't there until I press "s" for the first time. I dunno why that is sorry. I'm no expert and I was a bit puzzled about that. edit: after re-trying it seemed that the enemy range indicator only appeared once I reached 50 meters altitude. The "s" was a co-incidence.

Hi. The keys "1" "2" "3" "4" "5" on your keyboard control the ABRIS menu keys, the display shows what each key does. Use "5" to change to the one you want. This game is no game.

Oh SNAP~ Thank you muchly. :thumbup: Those not understanding what to do, change the line clickable_mode_initial_status = cursor_mode.[b][color=red]CUMODE_CAMERA[/color][/b] (Backup the .lua file first!)

I've spent a good hour or so searching to avoid making a new thread.:lol: I have G25 pedals I use for rudder and non-FFB Logitech Extreme 3D Joystick for Cyclic currently. Of course I had to set ForceFeedback = False to make trim work - all fine. However I want to upgrade to a reasonable FFB stick to get proper use of trim feature. I will have reinstate ForceFeedback = true. But my question is, will the FFB joystick trimming feature work whilst the G25 is connected or will the G25 wheel and it's FFB interface interfere meaning I will not be able to make use of the joystick's FFB making the whole purchase pointless? extra: I could buy proper pedals, but my G25 pedals are integrated into my rig so it's not so easy to change. A G25 wheel must remain plugged in to the PC to make the pedals work, they won't work independently of the wheel. Thanks for the oppertunity to ask.

Yep, that will work if the joystick is non-force feedback. Had the same issue with my non-FFB extreme 3D. uhhh, I actually re-read post and Ingolf says he has Extreme 3D Pro which is same as mine and is non-FFB. I was wondering about the Force 3D Pro if FFB would still work. Probably I chose the wrong thread. I'll try find a thread more appropriate.

I was about to post a question in the forums if this was possible to do. Seached and found this. Anyone have a solution? I was about to upgrade to a FFB joystick SPECIFICALLY to be able to use trim correctly and have the joystick 'lock' into trim. No point buying one if I can't even use the FFB with my rig. I also use my G25 pedals for yaw control. Ingolf: Have you tried disconnecting the DC power to the G25 and see if that works? It would disable the output of the FFB to the wheel, but I'm not confident the FFB on the joystick would magically start working though. :cry:

Actually scratch that, after about an hour of persistance I don't need either now. ;) e: But don't forget Conuk's requested the red input box overlay.

:music_whistling: Plus if possible..... Default the Flight Director mode to ON as well please would be sweet.

I have a Logitech Extreme 3d Pro (mine is not a FFB joystick) and the axes that are used for Cyclic are Joy X and Joy Y. Also if I select that axis to reconfigure it and move the joy stick, the game detects when I move it. edit: To assign it you MUST double click the control you want to assign, then a secondary dialog window appears: Then and only then can you move the stick and the game detects it.

I wonder why it was removed as an option? It certainly was pretty handy. Hope your fix has worked. Let us know

Yeah I know it will sync to whatever your PC is generating :) but I read somewhere a few times that if you're not getting a good 60 FPS with 3D shutter glasses then you will get a headache so you need a 120hz monitor or TV. You can get cheap 100hz 1080p LCD TVs now. 50 FPS on 3D would be ok I imagine. But I don't have expereince with shutter glasses to confirm this.

I think you're right about the misreporting. I'll get onto this and update and sort it out. Thanks for your help, sorry to take thread offtopic a little bit. Edit: I installed that shadow fix and it works :) Thanks to DCS team for the update :thumbup: ED team thanks :-)

Yep, but when I was researching it I noticed it didn't fix it for some people, so I did not persue that route. I would give it a try, but now I'm reading that mods won't work on 1.0.2 so I will wait until a new mod is made to try fix the cloud shadows graphic bug. But if I can't remove the shadow bug I will not update. It seriously looks that bad to me. I will turn off haze until a compatible mod for 1.0.2 is made. Hopefully turning off haze will still allow me to play MP. ***EDIT *** I'll try this solution first - http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=903798&postcount=119 *** I hadn't go up to that post yet, so it's already addressed it seems. *** Thanks for the extra link to the Lock-on files you posted. Most definately aware, but the shadow bug was so god damned butt ugly I was prepared to loose all the haze effects and have a less visually stunning game. That shadow bug was soooooooo distracting it was like like sand in my eyes. I will look to see if I can use a mod to fix cloud shadow bug. Thanks for your reply mate. Gave me some hope. :)

I've just noticed this update. I'm up to page 6 of the thread, but want to know if I change my script file to turn haze off to remove the cloud shadow bug, will this make my 1.0.2 multiplay incompatible? I'll remove this post if I find the answer whilst I'm reading the whole thread. Also : How are the sounds bettter? Do they actually sound better or did they remove that bug that makes the sounds go quiet when you turn your head around- or are both things I mentioned addressed?

Yes please:lol:

I played BS on anaglyph 3D all weekend. Was truely awesome. Really gave a sense of how high up I was and made judgement of speed much easier, didn't hardly need to check the VSI at all, and I'm pretty newb at BS. Felt like I was really "hanging in space in a little tin can" I used iZ3D drivers on XP sp3 Downsides: AA would NOT work at all Frame rate almost halves. But AA was off so could have been worse, went from 40-60fps down to 16-30fps. Red/Cyan vision made me feal like I'd been on medication all weekend Red/Cyan vision made me see everything in red/cyan when not wearing them Did I mention red/cyan vision was a bit annoying???111 After a while you get used to the 3D effect and it starts to look 2D again... !!?? but in red/cyan vision 2nd Best would be to get a thumping massive 120hz LCD monitor or LCD TV and get one of those nVidia shutter glasses kits. Problem is you need to be able to generate 120fps solid. So you need a Super Computer. I saw the best 3d setup I believe on youtube. Consisted of a frex dome screen and a 3D LCD projector .... Still, would be sweet to have polarised projector at home...

Hi - I've had BS for a year I think. Couldn't fly for a crap with a PS2 JoyPad so I didn't play much at all. Built my own rig - designed for car racing but Handbrake works really good as a collective. Added a new JoyStick Cyclic, rudder pedals came with car. Took me weeks to figure out how to fly and even just using the gun took me a while to figure out, yes I couldn't figure it out for 12 months how to fire the damn gun... haha. This sim is epic. Last heli sim I played was LHX Attack Chopper. I figured out how to use my headtracking as the gun turret and I'm starting to actually hit things now. in case you want to laugh at a noob after the first time I got the gun + helmet sight to work. After this run I was almost shaking with glee.:D Oh yeh I use HeadMouse for head movement. Pretty good software for free and no web cam mod nor IR LEDs are needed. Sorry vid quality is so bad. I have no proper software to record and edit vids nor a proper video cam.