WarriorX

Severum, welcome to the never ending goal in PC gaming hardware. I know it's tough when money is tight, but you are getting great advise here from people that have been there, done that. You would really kick yourself if you damaged your current PC all for the cost of a $120.00 power supply. So you do have some options, you can sell your existing PSU on ebay, to try to recoup some of the cost. Or you can wait on getting the video card until you do have enough to get the PSU and video card.

Do you have any design drawings or prototype pic's for us to consider?

lol!!! that explains why my run just now at 21,000 AGL just failed miserably! Sorry about the misquote of the ceiling, thanks for clarifying Viper.

I just ran it last night and got slapped out of the sky on my GBU 10 run at 18,800 ft. Just checked the spec's on the real thing and the ceiling is 6000 meters or roughly 20,000 feet AGL http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/missile/row/sa-15.htm So i'm gonna try going in at 20,000 if I can haul 4 GBU10's and a full combat load up that high without stalling.

I just got it to work by gently rotating the stick at it's base, clockwise, while the app was running....which makes me wonder why I have to rotate the base to get it to work...great! something else to worry about!:detective:

I tried it on every usb port I have and it still sticks on "spacebar". Win 7 64 ran it as admin and ran it without admin. Funny that we all thought it was asymmetric loading on the hog!

Do you as the mission designer have control over what ordinance the JTAC calls for? or is it AI logic?

I would not go lower than a 750 watt PSU. This gives you a comfortable buffer. Here is a suggestion from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006 And another at 850 watts: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139009

Just one small thing Cougar, having the JTAC request a GBU 10 for a SA15 Gauntlet is a suicide mission.

I have been using the UHF with good results in the range dept. 243.0 to be exact.

I was looking into getting a 1/48, but no one has made a "C" model yet. While browsing for said model, I grabbed this pic as the skill and detail that the builder had was amazing. Unfortunately I did not record who made this model, but as you can see it won awards...really beautiful work. BTW if memory serves me right this is a 1/32 Trumpeteer. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Great idea Tigershark, that will be the perfect test!

Here ya go....http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130593 Only question is if your power supply can manage everything. Here is a quote from the Spec's tab on this card: System Requirements: 550-watt power supply with a minimum of 38 amps on the +12 volt rail Power Connector: 2 x 6 Pin Oh and almost forgot to add here are the dimensions....make sure it will fit! Card Dimensions: 10.5" x 4.38"

What is your spending budget? What does your rig need to meet the recommended requirements of this Sim? As an NVidia man myself, I would look at a tier 2 card but IMHO, your power supply may hold you back from a GTX 480, or GTX 460. Which draw quite a bit of power. Your power supply also all but removes the ability to run a SLI rig, even if your MB is SLI ready.

No Sir! Thanks so much for the info...looking forward to the video's.

Andy I just tried something on Firefox that cleared up the problem. I went into the Tools/Options/Privacy/Settings The box that shows up has one section for History and one for Data. I checked all the Data boxes, closed Firefox and restarted. When I went to the DCS main page, my password was no longer autofilled in the login box. I entered it, and got the confirmation text that I was logged in.

Tigershark, can you please provide any details on the hardware you have so far?

I concur andy. I have not been seeing the "normal" post login screen for about a week. I also can not see my serial key. P.S. I sent in a ticket on the problem.

AFAIK, this works with the Thrustmaster Warthog. I do not think it works with other HOTAS. It's purpose is to give the Warthog user the ability to have the game mirror the switch positions of the controller as you enter the Sim.

Congrat's on your progress...keep the reports coming!

Just reported a bug. I changed the default Radio and Key Settings in the TARS Control Panel. I changed them to Arrow Down, Arrow Right, and Arrow Left. Upon restarting TARS, the previous key assignments are now, Down +1, Right +2, and Left +3. I have to keep changing them back whenever I start TARS. I am running Beta 2 and running TARS as Admin.

I just wanted to thank you Headspace for TARS. I just got done with a 3 person MP mission, really enjoyed the added immersion from the TARS radio emulation. Great job Sir!

I have always flown right stick...i do not move it.

One of the first things I learned to do on the CDU is to switch the automatic steerpoint switching off. I prefer to have control on switching steerpoints. To turn the automatic steerpoint switching function to manual follow these steps: 1. Locate the FPM button. (look for a row of buttons below the CDU display and above the alphanumeric entry blocks) 2. Press the FPM button and look up on the CDU display and you will now see up near the top left Line Select Key (LSK) something like 01 AUTO. 3. Press the LSK next to 01 AUTO and it will change to 01 MAN 4.Now that you have manual control over the steerpoint switching you can hit the PREV key which is right next to the FPM key. This will take you back to the original CDU display page. (IMPORTANT! Only hit the PREV key once from this point as a second hit of the PREV key will restart the CDU initialization from scratch.)

Here is my desktop pit. Uploaded with ImageShack.us