Gruman

Well. Sadly my rift is defective and needs to be swapped out. If there is tesion on the cable, everything is alright. Pushing the cable a bit into the direction of the rift, I get an Error "Hardware Issues Detected" and the screen shuts down. But I really enjoyed the touch demo, eben if its a bit childish :-p very intuitive. Cant wait for the replacement.

Thats just amazing. Speechless.

Should get my Rift/Touch today or tomorrow. Looking forward. Last time I wasnt familiar with the uh1 or m2000... But Now this should be great :)

Quick question. I had my rift, but sold it to a friend because I didnt use it enough to justify having it. Lately I've been flying a lot more in DCS and I really like to get back into the rift. I just googled Rift CV2 and I got a lot of answers for release date in the year 2019. . Apparently Q1, 2019 is officially announced somewhere. Are those informations still valid or was something moved to an earlier date? Because if it takes them another 2 years for CV2, I feel enough need to get the CV1 again... :P Thanks guys.

Just contact the guy, give him your facebook and he will actually chat with you every day if you want. There is also a heli simmer group (english as well) where there are a lot of microheli controller users. You will see his current force trimm prototype for the cyclic (and future pedals and collective) as well. Best regards

+1 (MFG) If you are EU based, its probably the quickest way to get one or more (since they are stackable).

Thats the DIY way, yeah. This is a better example for fine pitch cases: @Brewix. A good Solder Iron will go a long way. Exchangeable tips will give you the most flexibility. Here at work we use the JBC line, but those things are overkill and overpriced (700$+ in Switzerland). Previously we mostly used Weller and they worked good. If you buy one of those cheap ones, you might buy a replacement soon again ;-).

What size of SMD Components are we talking about? 0805? or 0603? If you just using an solder iron, just apply soldier to the first pad, heat it up with your solder iron and place the SMD Part onto the location with a small pliers. Then solder the second pad. You can also solder both pads with flux containing solder and just use the hot air technique. As long as you have NoClean solder, you good to go. If your solder, for whatever reason (Maybe old?) still contains halogen, then you need to clean it. Otherwise flux residue doesnt need to be removed anymore. Don't overthink it. Just grab an old piece of PCB and play arround. Just use a good solder iron and quality solder. Don't go with those 15$ combo's where you cannot control the temperature. PB Free solder requires arround 350°C. If you plan to use solder with PB parts, then use arround 330°C on your solder iron. I would go with the solder iron and the technique described above Easy, simple to learn and pretty quick. And yes, Electronics is my job, not my hobby. Good luck.

Nevermind. Enjoy your Rift

Got the extensions. They are solid for the price. A bit sharper thread than I'm used to from my other extension, but thats doesnt really matter when they are assembled :). Great product, perfect price. I bugged Milan a lot about the combat pedal style replacement parts, but they are not ready yet... Said some guys were allready 3d printing them... Maybe one could start 3d printing a temporary solution? :P

That thing doesnt look as comfortable as the old chair :). But I guess thats immersion ;-) Good looking pit. Only big thing missing is the fitting UH1 Cyclic/collective :)

This is just great. Getting better and better. You decided yet on which collective you want to go in the future? Are you actually planning on putting two seats in the cockpit? :) Looking forward for more :)

That looks awesome. Exactly what I was looking for. Can't find the extension on your webpage. Any word on price and an approx shipping cost to Switzerland/Europe? Thank you.

You're welcome. If you need to know details, let me know :) Watching this topic. Going to be cool :) @hegykc Well, cant wait to finally order some of your offered products... :)

The base is an metal case plus the tube appear to be out of a lightweight metal. The Rest is 3d Printed / Plastic with a bit of cork material for the throttle. I was rather shocked when I received my Komodo Sim Collective. To be honest, I expected a lot more weight, less plastic. The buttons feel good (Except the Collie hat and the trigger on the underside. (Both 3d Prined and I just wait for them to fail) Friction control didnt work either on my Unit, but Rich did offer me to fix it, but I still couldnt find the time to send it back. Don't get me wrong, the collective is great and Rich (from KomodoSim) provides good support (but can take some time), but I was just not that impressed when I got my 1kg Package after 3 Months of waiting. But still, currently the best collective in the "reasonable" priced selection if you need a lot of buttons or want a replica.

To give an update on the InaTeck USB Card on Win 10. - Uninstalled the Driver via the remove software tab and shut down the computer. - Removed the Card. - Started the system again, checked if the driver is gone. - Shut down the system - Install the card again, power up and let Windows handle driver installation The Device Manager shows now the USB Card with an additional (Microsoft) Tag at the end. Didnt had a single Rift / USB 3 issue yesterday.

Actually, Inateck said on their Forums... If you are on WIN10, dont use their driver... Use the one which comes with Win10.

Great... And I was asking myself what the heck is keeping connecting/disconnecting... So I'm not the only one with the recommended USB Card which causes issues... Did you install the new or the oldDriver that is listed on the Inateck Webpage? I was running the newer one and might try the older one tonight... Best regards

With the old driver, you were able to change force feedback "spring", "dampening" and friction, which you are not able to do on Win10. AFAIK the default value is 50%, so we cannot increase it to 100% at the moment. There are no workarrounds there, correct? Thanks

Glad to hear. Good work with the VAT. Even better since Switzerland doesnt belongs to the EU :P. Looking forward.

Looking forward

I'm more focused on a generic Rotary Wing Cockpit, so a CUB 1 and 2 (when available) with a more fitting engraving would nicely fit into my simpit plans. Will keep an eye on this.

Thanks mate. Appreciate the input. Looks like a good variant also. Would need to alter it a bit so it rolls on another surface than my wall. Best regards

Hey guys. I have a extended Thrustmaster Warthog Joystick (+ the throttle) , KomodoSim UH-1 collective, MFG Crosswind Pedals and of course TIR. Currently I'm using this setup with some boxes screwed together which I push in front of my Ikea corner desk. While this is not the worst variant, I think I could do a lot better. And I would like to have a more permanent system, but while I'm playing DCS, I mostly fly choppers in Arma 3. And in this game, I need to be able to get out of the Simpit so I can use the keyboard. I would like to replace my corner desk with a straight one (160cm x 80cm). The whole fixed Simpit should be left of it and facing the wall (in sync with the desk). My idea was, to have my 34" Ultra Wide Monitor mounted on a horizontal sliding platfoorm, which I can move into the different positions. Now I'm looking for diffferent approaches for such a sliding mechanism. I thought about the following ways and using a VESA Wall Mount: - Using the same mechanism of a Ikea PAX Cabinet with a sliding door. - Using some ball bearings and an aluminium profile - Curtain profile and the sliders... Any other way to tackle this? I hope my whole Idea is understandable, otherwise I will post a sketch in the evening. :) Thank you guys.

Would it help if I say that the Collective is now picked up by the postal services and I received the tracking number? :D I waited also for a long time. I ordered mine on 8th June 15... :music_whistling: