Nightdare

Hmm, had no problem flashing my VFX switching from the Mongoost grip BTW, do you mean the firmware update . or the device update

You can't program any buttons?

Apologies, my comment was to @Digitalvole

Well, for the spit you'd like the differential braking, IIRC the brake lever on a TM is only button press, usable but not ideal But where did you get the idea the Mongoost is no longer available? Out of stock, yes. Out of production? https://virpil-controls.eu/vpc-mongoost-50cm2-grip.html

"If else off(/on)" doesn't work with momentary switches

Ah yes, sorry, cleared up the title

Tried this on my WW UFC, on my Virpil T50 and as keystroke It registers in control options, but in game, it's only able to close the cover, not open it Any other function in the keybinds concerning the MC weather this be 'On and Open' (even the 'else safe and closed) work as intended ...and while I'm at it, I can't seem to find the command for Canopy jettison in the list

DLAA (and most other AA) gives me smearing as well, so I simply leave that stuff off, got PD at 1.5 I run the DCS mirror at 1366x768, dials at 512 EF (can read them just fine that way) Though I do use Foveating, turbo, and size at 125% with OpenXR (Though I'd have to check exact values) Getting roughly between 25 (Bad days)-45 fps (FPS capped) with my rig see sig for specs, CPU OCed to 5.5, and squeezing every stable last drop out of the GPU with fans running 100 without passing 70c Do you run your Meta tethered or wireless? What's your memory and what's your internet speed?

With a Paypal account you can get those items straight from the country of origin (Note: the quality stuff like NKK toggles is still as expensive in China as EU)

Seems to be a solid setup (Though I can't account for the Simfab stuff, only issue I see there, as with many "flight"seats bar NLR, is that a deep bucketseat doesn't comfortably allow ease of checking behind you in VR, simply some extra padding could help ) Would opt for the WW rudder sooner than the TPR, apart from the TM being rather bulky height wise, there's also a significant price difference, which difference you can put into something like a Blackhog or VKB GNX module for the F-14 right hand controls (a simple USB 10-key pad could also suffice) The VFX is a really wonderful stick, don't expect it to handle the workload of modules like the F16 or Warthog though, but the F4 and warbirds should be fine The WW F-18 grips gives you all controls for the F-14 plus a few more, some aren't in the exact locations (PLM, Wingsweep) but that really doesn't matter, slew can be set to buttons for VSL Hi/LO, PAL the Orion base itself might be a little short on available switches for the left panel (it has no shift registers like Virpil), but can handle most in-flight operations

Small resurrection 14 buttons 15 toggles (Various On/Off/Mom types) 1 pull switch 1 rotary with push total of 49 'switches' Including cases, cables, and Leo Bodnar, I'd estimate I'm out €175 total Which isn't 'cheap' but could have done cheaper going Arduino route (K.I.S.S. with the Bodnar), housing it in one case -Had a lot of connections left on the BBI-64, so added a 2nd box and buying the absolute cheapest switches and buttons available (and/or in bulk) It certainly gives me more than many 'professionally' made button boxes at a lower price Does it look pretty? Nope! Does it work? Most definitely! With the added bonus that this caters more to my personal wishes (And had fun with the building experience) Few things I learned: -Don't go for the cheapest wires - Also: Don't go for the shortest wires, 200mm was at some points barely enough to connect the wires to the center mounted board in the (200x120mm) case -Some 12mm buttons are somewhat too small in ergonomics for adult fingers (hence the bigger buttons on the top box, note both still are 12mm mounting holes) -Don't drill too close to the edges -Drilling holes by hand is a crapshoot, regardless of lines and measurements -Led lighting is a whole other story

The whole reason for a HOTAS is that you can keep your attention on other stuff than the throttle and stick I fail to see the value of the screen on the throttle when it takes away your attention from what's happening on the screen that actually requires your attention Especially when you constantly have to lift your arm to see anything on it AND also to make certain you are pushing on the correct 'area' of a touchscreen It looks nice for a beginner, but that's not a beginner's price range, that money buys a TM 16000 and head tracker that last item, much more valuable than a non-haptic button screen

In other words, you're gimping all other fidelity to make 1 feature look good

RT isn't good with anything except 'maybe' the 4090 DLSS and FSR are crutches/bandaids for hardware that can't handle a new feature introduced 2 generations ago It's not even "super resolution", it's resampling lower resolution, it would be a worthwhile addition if it managed to upscale higher from the highest resolution

Welcome to: "Build Your Own Detent" I got the F-14 where the Orion 2 fingerlift kit works great But I also got a Spitfire, A-10 and Av8 (A-10 and Av8 are in the fridge until I mastered the Tomcat, I got enough flying hours in the spit in 'other games') For the Spiffy, I use left throttle for Prop pitch and neither the cutoff or the AB are practical there, the AB is somewhat useful for WEP on the right, but in combination with the F-14, screwing around with the 'movable' detent is a bugger (1 square nut already ended up inside the throttle) and there is a big difference between the 20% AB for the Tomcat and the 8-12lbs boost for the spit to map it in the DCS joystick curves ...Now, i could just remove the whole detent frame, and just keep the boost gauge visually in check, but where's the fun in that? Took a look at the frame, wondering if I could make my own and I figured I do what I do best, "Eyeball and improvise" I got some tools and materials at work to pull it off, and put in some "overtime" Tried it first in plastic, but that didn't give me the result I wanted, so I tried aluminum First off, the 110mm length of the detent base in the WW manual is cutting it close with the mounting holes at the edges, if I'd do it again, I'd add another 5mm tot the length of the base Also, the 15mm width in the manual is scuffing the levers (it already does with the WW frame), so I went with joining 2 3mm aluminum L-profiles and making the 'base' 14mm wide this diminished the chance of scuffing the levers/frame AND gave me a 6mm wide right-side detent that would not scuff the left fingerlift OR right lever Initial 'design' I kept the detent ridge high for the simple fact it's easier to remove material than add it back again (AKA starting over), so the first fitting back home was way to high, (also didn't wear my glasses, so the 102mm hole distance ended up wrong, simply slotted out the top hole) I also kept the Cutoff peak, so I don't have to recalibrate the axis in WW software and because the Spit doesn't have chocks in game (Really Eagle Dynamics?????), so I can map the joystick to brakes all the way back the WEP is now a slight 'feel' so I can vary boost at changing altitude without sliding 'just over the start hump' of the WW AB detent The result: at first fit, I found the 'prop pitch' to hit the top mounting bolt of the frame, so I screwed in a small piece of aluminum plate to make a 'stop' (I also had to file down one of the bolts that keep the 2 profiles together, for the left finger lift 'nub' was scraping it) I might make a similar stop from L profile to match the 'hook' of the WEP stop, as is, both levers max is now equal to each other, but the right actually stops, while the left has a bit of 'push-thru' and 'bounce-back' Nope, it won't win any beauty contests, but it works! Maybe I'll try a 2.0 in the future, but for some reason, my jury rigging temporary solutions always seem to end up better than 'improved' attempts null

Increase virtual memory?

Thank you

Hi all, quick question regarding the 18UFC The depth of the unit is 87mm, but mounting it with a WW panel clamp to a desk, how far forward does it come from the desk edge at zero degree angle?

Then I'd need to add a powersource for 2 leds: On-status indicator and 1 latching pushbutton Which seems a bit unnecessary when the board itself can power 5v/100ma

BBI-64

Good day all I got a Leo Bodnar board and it can power leds I want to power the led inside a latching switch (so I can see when it's on) and send the signal through to register the button press, so I don't need a separate pin on the board for led power (which would then also register as a second button press in a Bodnar setup) But when I look around for 4-pole switch wiring, I get this: Which isn't the applicable to my button box since I'm not powering/switching an external load If possible, how do I wire that? Like this?

If you just bought them, I'd say return and get a rudder where you can remove the springs If you're out of warrantee, screw that sucker open and take out the springs yourself

Benchmarks that look like a.. won't sell any cards, or even promote the channel showing them Thing is that current raytracing is hardly even utilized to the fullest, and already a big hit even for the better GPU's

Every benchmark I see, RT is a performance hit without really noticing a significant image improvement (often having to decrease overall quality settings to keep it playable) So I for one, am not cheering on the race to catch the rainbow

That depends if these prices include VAT/shipping Virpil for instance, is €299 without, it arrives at the door for €400