rocketeer

this one just for show. static display

Over a dozen F16 and ACES items just got listed for sale at https://www.ebay.com/str/therealsimworld.

More F16 and ACES stuff just got listed at https://www.ebay.com/str/therealsimworld.

my simple/lazy solution to the oxygen regulator panel's handles. :music_whistling: on the left is still a rotary switch on the outer ring and an encoder inside. i've explained in the past how i did it. A bit tricky but with patience it's still doable. you have to open up the rotary switch, taking care of the two ball bearings inside might shoot out and lose them, so you open it up in a big clear zip lock bag to catch the ball bearings. as for the long spring inside rotary switch, you need to cut it into two parts, and trim them shorter by 10% each. in the middle you put a rod through the hole in the rotary switch, then insert the springs on both sides of the switch, then the ball bearings, then close them without letting the ball bearings fall out, which is the tricky part. without trimming the springs, with the rod taking some space, the springs might be too squeezed so it'd be difficult to load the ball bearings and close up the switch. below the rotary switch you need to drill a hole into the stem of the encoder to stick the rod in. so that the inner inner above can turn the encoder below the rotary switch. to the right of the ILS i've changed to a simpler solution than the past. now it's a concentric encoder. one for frequency, one for volume.

guys, i think such cockpit floodlight in the past used to be red? nowadays, is it typically yellow, or green, or white in RL?

you have amazing top notch workmanship. :thumbup:

securing the front piece and the push pull switch to the rod is the same method-having a piece of acrylic inside the hollow brass rod, drill a hole and screw either side in.

Craig, i saw your youtube on the matrix before. but i was too slow to understand :doh: if i can figure it out then i'd do the matrix. CMSC. printed paper over some parts of a pcb. lol it doesn't get lazier than that! Now CMSP. i like this solution because i get square buttons with round body. easy to drill! as the buttons are red, so i printed the labels red too instead of grey, it's supposedly color.

CDU. this panel does have not words on the face, all on the buttons, so i don't even bother with covering the pcb board. UFC. Master Caution is one big square button with round body. easy to drill hole for. Both CDU and UFC were kinda done last time. But the rocker switches were extremely stiff to push. so i decided to redo and use normal push buttons to replace all rockers. and these two fellas.

Thanks Craig. The yellow dots are to mark those switches that are not functional in the sim, as stated in the flight manual. Looking forward to more of your awesome youtube videos!

emergency handbrake done, using a simple push pull switch. before and after pull. i glue an acrylic rod to the inside of a brass tube. drilled a hole to screw the push pull switch head into it to pull it up without the cap that comes with the switch. next, DVADR. this is how i decided to mount it. just next to the left console using L brackets. after adding some LEDs and words to the face.

thanks, quick.

:worthy:

Thanks Craig. I made this handle years ago. can't find it. lol. remade a new one. I like these sliders where when pushed against, they produce a click sound each time.

previously, i wasn't too happy with this setup. the push buttons wobble too much, and don't fit some of the square holes perfectly. so some of them don't move smoothly. plus the buttons don't lie flat, some sit at an angle, some at different height. looks horrible. recently i decided not to care about output display and just focus on getting input switches done. this pit has spanned over too many years. so now i decided to change to using square push buttons from the get go, but with round body so it's easier to drill round holes to fit snugly. then i glue some 3/4" square acrylic from tap plastic to get the size of the button look i want. now backlighting is not possible. but what the heck. at least pushing the buttons feel right without being stuck in the square holes and those holes that are too big leave too much room for wobble. and now consistent height and all sit flat. :)

FYI, i have put up some F16 and ACES II items for sale on ebay under the hardware for sale section. For cockpit builders, you can use these ejection seat items for other aircrafts such as the A-10C and F-18C cockpit etc. (if you are not too technical about F-18 using Martin Baker instead of ACES II) :) https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=3581196#post3581196

Hi everyone, I have 6 items for sale on ebay, some decals, and ACES II related items. Will ship worldwide. :) All professionally made. :music_whistling: Ebay store: https://www.ebay.com/str/therealsimworld F16 Decal ACES II Decal Ejection Seat Headrest Cushion Pads (1 pair) Ejection Seat Nylon Back Ejection Seat Nylon Seat Ejection Seat Wool Seat More items coming soon!

Hans, The latest dcs bios version supposedly fixed the pot noise issue. Still, 10k vs 500k ohm is a lot of difference and there's a risk noise is still an issue given it'd be lot more sensitive. thanks for your input.

Alburg, maybe mega to mega is impossible or at least difficult. why don't you try mega to nano first? hansolo has many panels set up that way. if you can at least make it work for mega to nano, that can be your backup set up. i know some panels need many input or output. my plan is to use 2 nanos when needed instead of a mega slave. nanos are much cheaper anyway.

i received it too. recently started gluing the pieces.

nobody can comment on the dcs bios install procedure?

Most push pull pots at aliexpress are 250K and 500K ohm. My impression is that most simpit builders use only 10K pots. Any adverse problems is we use 250K or 500K?

In the past i got basic dcsbios working for switches for push buttons, toggles, rotary switches and encoders. then when i tried to get rs485 working via Hansolo's method of max487, that is a new level of difficulty. I consulted him many times with questions on wiring, compiling errors. He was very helpful and patient. Thanks Hans! I even got the master mega to compile, and separately the slave nano to compile. Then when linked up and they lit up and started the master com port, then nothing happens except the annoying couldn't compute fast_cwd pointer error. after several tries, checking wiring and sketches etc. i deleted the dcsbios folder. tried to reinstall and it can't even find the dcsbios.h file. many of you have done this dcsbios install, and some even tried the rs485 successfully. instead of keep on bothering Hansolo and Ian, can you guys share how should dcsbios be properly installed? and after that the sequence of running the rs485? At github we have the v.0.7.1 for download. it will download dcs-bios-v.0.7.1.zip. to install a library one clicks on the zip file. but when i do that, the library name becomes dcs-bios-v.0.7.1 in the IDE, does that matter? must it be just dcsbios? then at the download page, there's the second link for the source code. that will download dcs-bios-0.7.1.zip with the 'v'. the folders inside look identical to the dcs-bios-v.0.7.1.zip file's. do i have to bother with this second zip file? then there's the tar.gz. do i have to bother with that? and i read something about socat. i tried to run it and it extracted a folder. i ran socat.exe and nothing happened. can i know which files above i need to bother with? do i need to rename the zip file? or the folder inside? they all contain the version number. and after i get dcsbios properly installed, no more errors, and it can find dcsbios.h etc. how to best run the rs485? if both master and slave can compile when connected to usb, i disconnect slave's usb, link up the maxchip, then just run com port cmd for master, and push some switch on the slave and i should see stuff running on the cmd prompt like when the arduino is a standalone board? can warning errors like the can't compute be ignored or must be fixed? sorry many questions. but if i figure this out i hope it'd help others going to attempt rs485 too.

Like HMA said, rotary switches come in 30 or 45 degrees type. If not specified in description then need to check the data sheets. The number of positions are usually not fixed. usually they come holes at the top, and a pin for you to select which hole to plug into and that will stop the rotation to the number of positions desired. Before you set the pin, you have to first rotate the handle anticlockwise all the way. Then set the pin. Then it'd stop rotating where you want it to.